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Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    First of all, I hope you used ONLY the VW-approved G12 antifreeze... anything else mixed in with it can "Gell" and plug up the entire cooling system. If you mixed in anything else besides the VW-approved stuff, consider flushing the entire cooling system and refill with the right stuff mixed with DISTILLED water.

    The problem you describe sounds like you did not "burp" the cooling system. An air-pocket in the system is not able to be pumped by the waterpump.

    One way to verify that the waterpump is pumping is to observe the flow of antifreeze into the overflow tank via the small hose that attaches to its side. That hose should be "pissing" antifreeze at all times the engine is running. If not, then there is no flow thru the engine.
  • I just bought a 1998 Jetta GT with the 2.0 engine. Curious if anyone knows the best octane of fuel to use to reduce or avoid potential premature detonation.
  • jetta7jetta7 Posts: 17
    Have you tried changing the fuel filter and air filter? These are the life blood of the engine.
  • Hey guys I have a 97 2.0l jetta. It just started leaking oil from the filetr housing - Very badly. It looks like an easy fix - probably a gasket. Does anyone know what this gasket is called or what the heck the part is called that the filer is screwed in to? I have had no luck finding this part....
  • I need a new engine, i was wondering, how do i know if an engine is compatible to my 99 jetta. i was told that the GTI, Jetta and golg 2.0's are all the same, is this true? I really need help. thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    All VW engines have a designation of 3 letters (AZG, AEG... etc)

    Although there may be several mix-n-match pairnings of engine-transmission... it would be wise to keep the same 3-letter engine-code which you currently have. Otherwiese, you would also have to consider engine-computer and perhaps even sensor differences.
  • gitgogitgo Posts: 2
    Need some help - any comebacks appreciated. Have a 4cyl, Gasoline 2.0. with problems. Hit a raccoon on the right front side and the check engine light came on afterwards. (raccoon cited for DUI and has since disapppeared). Insurance not covering this and it is getting very expensive. Trying to tie the problem with the accident - hard to prove it was accident related. Car ran perfectly prior to the accident.

    Engine starts ok, however, it will not pull itself. Engine will not rev up at all - when I step on the accel. the engine cuts out. Runs rough until the engine warms up - some smoke until it gets hot. Even then, little or no power, and the engine sputters upon putting into gear. It will only get up to around 40mph. Have had two separate diagnostics on it, one indicated the engine was misfiring. Changed the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. Had the second diagnostic performed by a VW dealer and it indicated the ignition coil was the problem. Have changed this out and the problem remains. I run premium fuel, maintainence is regular - any thoughts on the cat. converter? Other possible problems? Solutions? Many thanks to anyone who responds.
  • crycry Posts: 1
    I am trying to find the location of the oil filter on my 2007 jetta. Also where can you buy the 502.00 Oil? Thank you Cry
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    From a document that used to be on VW website (c. 2005), the following met their 502.00 spec at that time:

    Volkswagen Part No. ZVW 352 540S 5W-40
    Castrol Syntec 5W-40
    Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
    Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
    Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
    Mobil 1 0W-40
    Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
    Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
    Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
    Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
    Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
    76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
    Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
    Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
    Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
    Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
  • HELP!! Engine Surging at 50 MPH, 500 RPMS fast & MIL light. This has been a thorn in my side for over 2 months. Recently my 02 VW Jetta, 95000 miles, needed the transmission rebuilt because the reverse went out. It is no longer under warrenty and was cheaper to have it rebuilt then a new factory transmission put in (mistake #1). Ever since I got it back the engine surges on the highway causing the MIL light to come on, about 50MPH and runs about 500RPMs faster from what I can tell. The MIL light states "Torque converter circuit malfunction." Also, it may seem to be starting roughly. Here is a list of items that were replaced: solenoids, valve body, wiring harness, torque converter (twice). I am being told it is only an occassional problem (I notice it everytime I get past 50), nothing can be done about it and it may be my computer. I LOVE my Jetta, but am sick of dealing with this latest round of problems.
  • I have a 1998 Jetta 2.0 with 63,000 milles. It starts fine, but when accelerating the engine wants to die after about 2 seconds. If I take my foot off the accelerator at that time, it will not die and I can accelerate again for about another 2 seconds. Thid repeats at about 2 seconds the entire time I am driving. As long as I stop accelerating every 2 seconds, I can eventually get it up to speed, but if I try to continue to accelerate, it will die. The error codes scanned are P0103 & P1580. Did anyone else have these problems or have any ideas what may be the cause based on these codes?
  • Code 1580 says a throttle actuator problem. There are diagnostic procedures to test this but you need a tool like a VAG-COM. Jettas seem to throw this code a lot.. Also the P103 code is the MAF circuit input, which may be related, I'm not sure. You'd need a wiring diagram to see if these two components happen to have something else in common like a relay or ground wire or whatever.

    You can always try to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor thoroughly (using the correct solvent).

    A new actuator is very pricey. You don't want to be guessing on that part.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    I have never heard of the throttle actuator going bad.... but it may be "out of sync" with the accelerator pedal. This could happen if somone mistakenly touches the accelerator pedal while starting the engine. (One should NEVER touch accelerator pedal when starting engine!!) Also, disconecting battery may lose the adaptation settings.

    There is a procedure to re-synchronize the throttle-pedal to the throttle-plate. This procdure is called "throttle adaptation" by VW. Here is a synopsys of the "throttle adaptation" procedure from the Bently manual:

    1) WITHOUT touching accelerator pedal, turn key to "run" (do not start engine)
    2)wait several seconds for onbaord diagnostics to complete.
    3) slowly press accelerator pedal to floor and HOLD for at least 5 seconds.
    4) slowly relase accelerator pedal
    5) turn key off

    The above procedure also resets an automatic xmission to the default settings.

    If the above does not help... you may wish to search the internet for "throttle adaptation" to learn more about it. Some folks have reported that they had to do other things (like disconect battery 1st, or leave key in "ON" position for 3 minutes before pressing pedal down.)
  • is it possible to swap my 2.0 for a 1.8t motor in my 99 vw jetta?i only honda swaps not vw...thanks for all the help!!!!

  • Hey, im curently having the same problems with my car. I have a 99 Jetta. (older body style) and it cuts out at 2-3 grand and maxs at 35-40mph. i changed my spark plugs, my wires, fuel filter, and nothing came out of it. a friend suggested coils like you had been suggessted. but you say it didnt help? another friend says cam sensor. did you find out what the problem was??? thankx for your time
  • iyoulowiyoulow Posts: 4
    Hi all. I'm having major problems. First let me say that I replaced an ignition coil a few months ago. I had a difficult time locating one. Once I changed it everything was fine. I did drive the car for more than a week with a bad coil though.

    Last Thursday on my way home from work the engine started running rough and losing power. I figured it was a coil again. The next day I swapped out each coil with a good one with no change. I then changed the plugs. It ran rougher. Then ran a little smoother. Now it is very rough. I had the codes scanned at Advance Auto Parts. I'm getting P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1) and all four cylinders are misfiring. They keep switching around so I know its not the ignition coils.

    I have read that the catalytic converter can be damaged when driving with a bad coil. I think the cat is bad and have ordered a universal one online. I drilled holes in the old one today hoping it would improve engine power. That was dumb. Loud but no change. I can't drive it anymore until I fix it. I can't afford to take it to a mechanic.

    Could the problem be something other than the cat? Would a bad O2 senser cause the engine to misfire. I also have the rotten egg (exhaust smell). What causes the system to be too rich? Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    What causes the system to be too rich?

    MAF sensor
    O2 sensor
    leak in intake plumbing
    trubocahrger not pushing enough air thru engine
    (some others)

    Try this, UNPLUG the electrical connector from the MAF and then start engine and drive for a couple days. (This will force the computer into "limp mode" and may turn on the CEL.) If it runs better, suspect that your MAF is sending bad signals to the computer and may be bad.

    Many folks have reported that when MAF is bad, the engine will run BETTER with it disconnected thus forcing engine to run in "limp mode".
  • iyoulowiyoulow Posts: 4
    The MAF has been bad for a while and unplugged. The car ran fine regardless. It is definately something else. Can the O2 senser cause the power loss and the rotten egg smell?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    yes definitely a possibility. You need to get a handle on this car I think. It seems to be running away from you. Do you know of any VW specialty shop that has a mechanic who knows how to do step by step diagnosis? I sense that you are throwing parts at the car (and I know you're trying to do the right thing here) and I'd hate to see you waste more money than it might cost to pay a clever tech to straighten this puppy out once and for all.
  • zepperszeppers Posts: 2
    perfectly normal for a couple seconds then falls off. Would a damaged/missing crankshaft positioning sensor allow that to happen? If I tap the accelerator irregularly it will sometimes rev up but always dies. There is a dent in the oil pan but not very large. I love this car (newly acquired). I can't help but think it's something simple (wishful?). I tried the accelerator "sync" procedure another member suggested, disconnected the battery.... It sure feels like a fuel issue. Any other ideas?
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