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Oldsmobile Alero Electrical/Lighting



  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Has it been checked to see if there's a constant high load on the battery even when the ignition is off? In other words, is something staying on when it shouldn't? That would fit your symptoms - and under these conditions all kinds of error codes and electrical gremlins will occur. One way to do this is to disconnect the battery, put an ohmmeter across the cables (not the battery) and measure the resistance. It better be high (but not infinity). You need to be sure that interior or under hood lights are off (doors shut or bulbs out) so those aren't a factor.
  • I have a 2000 Alero with 70k miles. I had the emergency flasher recall fixed a year ago by a local dealer, but after the first use recently it popped right back into the dash. Worse, they broke the dash vent then and it took a year for them to get the part and replace that. Now a month or so later the fan will only operate on high speed, and the rear defroster will not work more than one out of a 100 button pushes. I wondered if some vengeful mechanic who got chewed out for breaking the dash vent might have set me up when he finally replaced the vent --- or are these problems common to Alero? If it is Alero electrical problems which all seem to be dash board related, any ideas on how to get to the behind dash locations so I can fix these myself? Otherwise this is a great running car and the last of the best cars ever made – the Oldsmobiles.
  • Hi, I have been searching to try and find a fix for my alero, and I saw your blog, although I realize it is over four yrs old...haha just wondering if you figured it out? the door chimes in my POS 2001 alero after the key is out of the ignition, and when it rains, the chiming doesnt stop and the interior lights stay on even after the car is locked...thus-dead battery. love it. any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. i am planning on getting rid of the alero this summer hopefully, or as soon as possible, so I am looking for an inexpensive fix. Thanks again
  • yampearyampear Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Olds Alero V-6 that recently would not start properly. The battery works but the fuel was not getting to the injectors. The mechanic that I selected is telling me that the PCM may be the problem and that I should replace the computer entirely. Are there modules that can be replaced that control this issue or is the mechanic correct? It has taken him 5 days to come to this diagnosis and I wonder if he is right. The fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago.

    Thanks in Advance of Solution.
  • It's too bad, cause if you work on cars at all, you can replace that switch in about an hour, and I think an aftermarket switch is about $75.00 and parts store.
  • this isnt anything caused by the dealer. Its typical problems of this car as the same thing is happening to me. The air only working on high is also my issue.
  • Thanks for the input. Since posting I discovered that the reason that I lost all speeds but the high speed is that the lower fan speeds are controlled separately by a resistor board that is located inside the car under the dash near the glove compartment. The part is commonly available as a Blower Motor Resistor and only runs about $20. You do have to be a contortionist to install it, but it is not complicated at all. A local (non dealer) auto repair shop will likely furnish the part and install it for about $50. I took care of mine last month after a tech installing a new alternator tipped me off to the problem, it is nice to have the fan back for winter. He got the part form a local auto supply store. Let me reference some useful Rock Auto on-line links that might help:

    Informational blog:

    On-line pricing:
    then select: OLDS, the year, the model, the engine, heat and air conditioning, then Blower Motor Resistor all from the drop down menu
  • chaugenchaugen Posts: 1
    I got this car when I was 18 and bought it with 81k miles on it now has 92,4XX the last two months it has been awful. Its a 01 olds alero Gl 4 dr sedan 2.4L 4 cyl. gas mileage is terrible I live 5 miles from work and spent 80 bucks every two weeks in gas. I had it in a few days ago and paid 400 dollars to have it fixed it seemed like it was trying to die rpm's got low and would spike when idleing just to stay on and running lights would dim when this happened. If in neutral and rpm are up its fine it also does it when accelerating over 60 changed the spark plugs they put in a new ignition coil which helped the first day and it started doing it again. I bought it for 6200 family didnt do there research and paid way to much for and am fed up with the problems ive had with it it died at at a stoplight was able to start it again and then died in a parking lot while in reverse. With kids being in my car I say no everytime unless its necessary I dont feel safe driving this car. Service Engine light always is coming on. Trade in at a dealer told me 2500 more then i expected for it but the interior is leather and is maintained and cleaned regularly have 4600 bucks of this loan left trading in and up to a 2012 kia sportage only thing saving me is that they will pay the loan off and tack on to kia so only one car pmt my biggest thing which everybody knows and if u dont I'm telling u now do ur research read reviews trusted friends/family that own the vehicle ur looking at if they do ask what problems they have had with theres or how they like it and if it checks out check the price u should pay vs. the price they want you to pay kia was being sold $3000 then invoice and 5k under MSRP still doing more research making sure this doesnt happen again. Cars have problems but you shouldn pay more to fix it then the car is worth
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