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Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems

I was wondering if you guys know what would be the reason why my chevy tracker 1999 turns off everytime I put the AC on? Thanks


  • I also have a 1999 Chevy Tracker with the same problem! Please let me know if you have found the answer to this problem.
  • cfaurecfaure Posts: 4
    I recently bought a Chevy Tracker 2000, 2.0L, automatic. I had to change the engine and found a 1999. It was changed and now it won't start. My mechanich checked everything and he can't find the problem. It could be a security problem? He checked the sensors and they seem ok. Electricity won't go to the engine. Please help!
  • tim54tim54 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Tracker with 150,000 miles on it. In the last 2 months it has begun to stall and will not start when it is hot outside and the engine gets warmed up. If I let it set for approximately a half hour, then it generally starts again. Anyone else have this problem. My garage mechanic has no idea. I have replaced the catilytic converter and some other engine pieces with no luck. One guy who walked by my car when I was trying to start it said it sounded like the fuel pump to him. Any HELP!!!!! would be greatly appreciated, as I can't drive it now. I have had to have it towed 3 times in the last month. Thanks
  • Mine is doing the same thing if you can pour a 20 oz bottle of water over the camshaft positioning sensor to cool it down. Then get in and start it up. I have already replace the sensor but my mechanic will get me another one because it still stalls out until I pour the water over it again. He thinks it was a bad replacement part. Hope this helps.
  • I had the same problem, I replaced the cam postion sensor and the Tracker runs great. Thank you for the info. :)
  • acarriganacarrigan Posts: 4
    Have a 2003 Chev Tracker and I melted the plastic housing (don't ask how) on both the headlamp covers. I need replacements, but boy are they pricy. Any suggestions on sources for replacement headlamps? The Suzuki, same year, looks totally different, so thats not an option.
    While I'm at it...any ideas on how to turn off the DRL's so I won't melt the headlamps again?
    Okay, I'll tell. I strapped the kayaks on the roof down from the bow over the headlamps to the front tow hook. The foam I was using to "protect" the headlamps from the straps melted into the lamps and left a gaping hole on each one.
  • I have a 1999 2WD Chevy (Geo, Suzuki !)w/ 105 k miles.

    Twice now in 2 years the engine has totally died. All other electrics were OK ( lights starter etc.) No "check engine" light. Starter would crank normally, but no start.
    Since the car has a vibration at freeway speeds I checked those relays that I could find ( not quite sure why so many relays when a switch would do). No go. Tried again, started right up and ran the 1000 miles to home.

    Now a year later same problem. Did the relay game again. No go. Since I was only a mile from home I had AAA tow it.
    With manual in hand I located another flock of relays cleverly located high up on the left kick panel above the cabin fuse panel (there's more fuses in the engine compartment). Shook, removed/replaced ALL. No go. Jumpered the fuel pump relay (sub'd a wire for the make/break contacts). No go. Cussed. A lot.

    Two months later I was listening to the radio in the car ( I have comments on removable stereo faces too !) and just by chance cranked the engine. Fired right up !
    One of my manuals ( I have Haynes & the 2 volume factory book ) mentioned, ever so casually, "intermittent fuel pump, likely a poor ground".
    Before I drop the tank and preemptively replace the fuel pump, as well the too small wire (read, minimum needed !), has anyone met and cured this problem ?

    Since my Cherokee blew a head gasket I need the Tracker !

    Thanks, Tom

    PS; Just went for the smog test. Test codes erased due to battery disconnect (that 2 months must be it !). Was told to do “at least 100 miles” on the freeway to reset the computer. That in a car I’m afraid to drive at all ! I have visions of an 18 wheeler bearing down on me when the engine conks out !
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    i wonder if the melting of the housing is not a cause of teh DRL but a cause of too high wattage bulbs?
  • ipaqnmeipaqnme Posts: 2
    Well I loooove my baby, It has 107k miles on it. I only had one problem when the gear shift chain broke. That cost $58. I have always maintained according to the dealer standards.
    I want to invest a few bucks in it this year so any ideas of what I need to prioritize I would love to know.
    This is my last car purchase and I want to keep it in immaculate condition. I am 57 and have so many other things I need to do with my money than buy a new car...TRAVELLLL!!!image
    I am retired so the luxury cars have come and gone. Decided to make a practical purchase in '99 that would be inexpensive to maintain.

    So any thoughts please please let me know.......
  • Hi I've got to say Best of Luck, but I'm not sure ANY contemporary car has affordable repairs.

    The prior owner of my Tracker had the heater core replaced 3 years ago - and it just started leaking again. Her cost was $800 - that's $300 core (outrageous !) PLUS $500 labor. I'm doing it myself, so believe me, I understand the labor cost. NOTHING is built for maintenance since the designers think mechanics are, at best, monkeys.

    I replaced 3 very minor emissions parts on my wife's Corolla. $372 for parts that were so minor in size & complexity that $100 SHOULD have been high.

    By the way I'm 70 and still working on this stuff !

    Good luck,
  • I have a 2003 tracker and it is doing the same thing I was wondering what exactly the Cam postion sensor is and how much it cost to replace it.
  • tim54tim54 Posts: 2
    Hate to tell you that I have no idea what the Cam Position sensor is. However, I do know that I just had mine replaced - even though the mechanic told me he couldn't guarantee that it would fix the problem - and it seems to have done the trick. I am now driving my tracker and it hasn't stopped yet. It is expensive, it cost me $260.00 for the sensor and an additional $75.00 to replace it.

    Hope this helps. I did NOT go through a dealership, as my Tracker is a 2000 and has 150,000 miles on it. Since yours is a 2003, you may want to take it to a dealership.
  • My 1999 Tracker just started doing this a couple of weeks ago once outdoor temperatures started hitting the 90s (F).

    It only does it sporadically, though. I've also left it idling in park and it's died a few times and then it does the 'spit and sputter' ordeal again trying to get it started.

    When it first happened, I thought the timing belt had slipped or broken. But, after about 10 minutes, it started right up and worked fine the rest of the evening. A couple of days later, in the heat of the afternoon, it started the 'spit and sputter' deal again. This time, I thought maybe it was some bad gas or water in the tank. Put some gas treatment in and it worked -- again -- for a couple of days with no problem.

    I scheduled a visit to the shop for it last Friday to be dropped off over night on Monday. BUT, it went all the way from last Thursday through the weekend and most of Monday with no further problem. So, I cancelled the trip to the shop. Would you know it!? Monday night it started acting up again.

    Now, I read this thread and I'm pretty well convinced it must be this CAM Position Sensor that's been mentioned. I'm in and out of the car a lot and decided to try raising the hood of the car between trips. So far, [knock on wood] that seems to have prevented any further episode throughout this past evening.

    BTW, it's been HOT-HOT here in Metro Atlanta, GA -- 100+ F day after day.

    So, just how sure should I be that the CAM Pos Sensor is the culprit? Advanced Auto has one onhand for $164 +/- plus tax. I know I can change it out myself, but would hate to spend this much money and it not be the fix I need.

    Cheers for any reply and further suggestions.
  • I dont know if this will help or not. i have a 2000 tracker. About every 40 thousand miles or so i have to replace the coils on it. Might try that if the engine has a few miles on it. They just seem to quit after a while. Once the spark plug blew clear out of the cylinder block i had to retap it to put a new one in.
  • I have owned a 1999 Tracker for about a year and it has about 89k miles on it. You say that you have to replace the coils on it every 40k miles or so. Are we talking about what appear to be the spark plug leads?
    I have a problem that just started yesterday where the car just would not start -- the starter motor would not engage -- although the idiot lights all work, along with headlights, etc. In desperation I disconnected the battery, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and re-connected it. The starter motor and engine did crank but it seemed to do so very slowly, kind of like what you would expect when the battery was about to shoot craps. I was able to drive the vehicle home and it started a second time, but on the third attempt it once again would not crank over. I took the battery to an auto parts store and it checked out fine. Does anyone have any idea what to try next?
    Thanks, GF.
  • quig13quig13 Posts: 1
    My 2000 Tracker with 48K on it had the same problem. The local garage tried twice and failed to fix it. I read your message and put in a new crankshaft sensor. The car starts every time now, and it runs smoother when hot. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
  • snicholsnichol Posts: 28
    Hi there,
    My past massages dealt with me breaking the timing chain and trashing my engine in my 2001 Tracker. I have since replaced the engine with a low mileage, wrecking yard engine. The engine has run good and has performed well, up until now...
    It began one day recently, when it was rather hot.
    I had stopped for gas and when I got in an re-started it, it acted like it was out-of-timing and trying to kick backwards. Finally after letting it set 10 minutes or so, it started and ran smoothly???
    Well, it has gotten progressively worse.
    Last week, it was a hot day, I got stuck in stop & go traffic and it sputtered and coughed and stopped. After letting it set for 5/10 minutes, it started, ran smoothly and I was able to get out of the stop & go mess.
    It happened again this last Saturday, after driving about 50/60 miles, it coughed and stopped running. Again, Let it set 5/10 minutes, it started right up and I continued my trip without a problem.
    It appears to me that it is the Cam Sensor problem you folks have been mentioning.
    MY QUESTION IS: Is the Cam Sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does the timing have to be set by it? (Like a old Distributor required?)
    Also, the AutoZone inexpensive replacement, is it a quality-built replacement part, or junk?
    By the way, my 2001 Tracker has 230,000+ miles on it and is still tracking on! (except for this minor glitch!)
  • Aloha! I have the same problem in my wife's 2003 Tracker. My mechanic couldn't find the prob, so I just took out the thermostat while we looked some more, and the car runs fine except when it heats up, when she runs the a/c or we try to go up into the mountains. Short term fix.
  • trinajotrinajo Posts: 3

    I notice you that you said your wife had a 2003 tracker, When did she start having problems with it? I am curious as well because my 2003 Tracker started spurtering & and basically dies, takes about 20 minutes before it can start again. Its been in and out of shops and supposely driven by other people .... I am to the point I feel like i am losing my mind. I been dealing with this slight problem for a year!!!! Its scary when it happens in a intersection turning area.

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