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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Electrical Problems

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  • falconjimfalconjim Posts: 5
    Hello, we have a 1995 GMC Safari that isn't getting any spark. The ignition module checked good, and we replaced the pickup coil. and still we can't get any spark? If anyone has had this same problem, and knows what the problem is, or has any suggestions, please email me. Thanks, Jim.
  • switch4switch4 Posts: 1
    My 2001 safari runs great and I love it, but after a few minutes running, the brake light and the ABS light come on at the same time. I have taken it to the shop, but it does not reveal any problems when connected to the computer. Does anybody have any ideas or similar issues?
  • denstardenstar Posts: 1
    Did you find anything out about this? My van does exactly the same thing.
  • veraraverara Posts: 3
    HI, I have a 98 chevy astro and today I noticed that when I applied the brake, my back up light come on. can someone please help me fix this problem? I appreciate any feedback thanks
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Everytime the guys have worked on my engine, they put the center consule back without hooking up the wire for the lighter. They also screw up the vent hoses for the driver side dash vents!
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Has some one been working on your wireing such as adding a trailer hitch harness? If so have that checked. What happens when you do put the vehicle in reverse? :(
  • veraraverara Posts: 3
    I have a 98 chevy astro and i noticed that :confuse: when i applied the brakes my backup light light up, can someone please give me information on how to troubleshoot the problem?
  • veraraverara Posts: 3
    no it's not a hitch problem, i had a blown blinker light so i replaced it and the van worked fine for a few day's i found out by a driver that was behind me that my back up light turned on when I applied the brakes. can you help me troubleshoot the problem ? by the way thanks for your help.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    I have a 2001 Safari AWD. Its orange ABS dashboard light came on as well. It would come on when I applied the brakes and a few times, it wouldn't stop. Almost rear ended 2 cars and hit 1 person - from slow response brakes. My shop replaced its master cylinder, replaced 1 front wheel speed sensor and said the other front wheel speed sensor would soon blow as well. It seems when one sensor is replaced, the other sensor blows soon after. Sure enough, 3 months later, its older sensor blew. - and its ABS dashboard light comes back on. And, back to slow response brakes. Out of cash and way too much frustrations, I pulled its ABS fuse. Yes, I pulled the ABS fuse - located in the under hood fuse box. The ABS dashlight is now on (plan to pull its bulb soon) all the time but I can tell you, my van's brakes are 100% better. Better then having defective speed sensors and putting others at risk.

    Based on increase braking performance (with its ABS fuse pulled), don't think I'll every replace its ABS fuse again. Other then putting the fuse back in - when it comes time trade the vehicle in.

    Hope this "hint, hint" helps....

    .
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Very dangerous situation pulling the fuse. Yes you can stop but if you are in a bad accident, your screwed if they find the fuse pulled. Have the front wheel sensors cleaned and that will usually fix the problem.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Thanks for your concern.... For your records, there's a known problem with the ABS system on the Astro/Safari vans. There's an official TSB but NO recall. Still amazes me why no formal recall. For details....

    Bottom line is... Defector sensor (which needs to be replaced) or the existing sensor is too "rusted up" to work properly...

    -----------------

    .... Basically, dirty sensor mounting surfaces cause the signal to drop out at low speeds, which fools the ABS system into thinking that it is experiencing an ABS event when it's not.

    Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor
    Mounting Surface) #02-05-25-006A - (11/26/2002)
    Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor
    Mounting Surface)
    1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade

    1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)

    1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)

    1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10

    1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)

    1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)

    1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy

    1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma

    1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

    This bulletin is being revised to change model information. Please discard
    Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006 (Section 05 -- Brakes).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8
    km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.

    Cause
    The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel
    speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on
    the sensor mounting surface.

    Correction
    Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.

    1.. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
    2.. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
    3.. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
    4.. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading
    should be at least 350 ACmV's.
    5.. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel,
    caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.
    6.. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from
    falling into the hub during service.
    7.. Clean the speed sensor mounting surface on the hub to remove rust and
    corrosion.

    Important
    Make sure that the sensor sits flat on the hub. If the sensor flange is
    distorted, replace the sensor.

    8.. Apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface prior to
    sensor installation.
    9.. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure
    the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.
    10.. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
    11.. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage
    while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350
    ACmV's.
  • hawk24hawk24 Posts: 4
    My '99 Safari, for the last week or so will not start in the mornings and even longer into the day if it's rainy. I have had it on a scope and all systems, fuel pressure, and spark checked out ok. There was however signs of moisture under the distributor cap. I had new cap, rotor, cables and plugs installed but the problem occurred again last morning after a hot day cool night. Once the sun comes out I have no problems starting up.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    A few months back, my 2001 Safari van didn't want to start either. Turned out to be bad distributor cap and bad rotor. After they replaced these items, it still wouldn't "consistantly" start. Especially on wet days. After some more testing, they replaced its battery. Funny thing was, that other battery was only 8 months old. They replaced the battery with higher cranking amps. Since then, my van's engine has started every time. Seems the other battery had enough "registered" power but not enough to fuel its starter and electrical system at the same time. Thus, it might or might not start. For my van, higher "cold" cranking amps in replacement battery seems to work. Been starting great ever since. Hopefully, new (stronger cranking) battery in your van helps as well...

    .
  • hawk24hawk24 Posts: 4
    Thanks for that spike99...I have read that solution before but the problem was not similar to mine. Your issue however, seems to be exactly what I am experiencing.
    I will make the switch. Thanks.
  • My 2000 GMC Safari had the same problem, The dealer replaced the Crank Sensor and found wires in the bundle that had heated up and fused themselves together. However, after over $1500 in money paid to the dealer, when they restored the spark, they found that that the Autozone Spark plug wires, when sprayed with a water mist while the motor was running, lit up like a christmas tree. They replaced the wires, the distributor cap (Autozone) and said they fixed it. The next rain, it would not start, back to the dealer. They said the Computer was bad and the cost for the compuer would be over $400 plus labor. I called GM and they said the computer is warranted for 80,000 miles, and after a long and angry discussion with the Service Rep, I called GM and they called the dealer. Computer + labor free!
    The next rain It would not start again, I pulled the dog house off and checked, Gas, good, spark not good. Removed the Distributor cap and removed the Rotor, well it had more burn marks on it than if it had been in a fire, and it was still the autozone one. It seems that the GM Dealer did not replace it...is that a way to pump more $ out of me? About a year and a half later the problem reappeared, so I removed the dog house, dist cap and the rotor was again burned and very dirty. I used the air gin and blew out the distributor and paid special attention to a recess and a hole in the bottom which was plugged. I even poked a small wire in it to see if it was open. No more problems yet, but If it does I know to replace the rotor with a genuine GM.
  • pops9pops9 Posts: 2
    changed the battery in my 2002 Astro van because it was 5 years old had no starting problems ever since I changed it the power locks & dome light go on & off when I hit a bump & the front bounces or make a turn the battery is secure and the cables are tight & clean at the battery & starter all I did was replace the battery I even took the new battery back thinking it had a loose plate but it does the same thing with the second battery any ideas
  • jrekjjrekj Posts: 5
    My 1997 GMC Safari has dim headlights when on low beam. I have checked fuses (all ok), replaced both bulbs, and I;ve cleaned up numerous electrical grounds. The alternator is only a couple of years old. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • 2000 Chevy Astro cargo 170k+ runs great but everyday while driving my gas guage needle, charge needle, temperature needle show a false reading also everything that can light up such as abs, security, etc. lights up like a Christmas tree
    does not effect the performance of the vehicle any ideas?
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