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Honda CR-V Start Stall and Idle Problems

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Comments

  • bambambullies1bambambullies1 Posts: 8
    edited April 2013
    I just got the pressure on my fuel pump checked and it is working fine..my mechanic scanned my engine and code po108 showed up which is the map sensor..$65.00 at pep boys but i found it for $45.00 at auto tech in balwin park..when i replace it i will let u know if that was the problem..
  • IMy dad talked to a guy....changed a part..the housing your dis.cap is connected to 3 bolts 1 connection elc.not sure what its called... sensors inside you can't fix...idle 4 hours in driveway drove 20 miles today no stall.. cleaned idle was dirty...very easy to do..20 mins... I have extra parts..that didnt fix if your problem is diff..can send u a picture of part I got if u want..i hope is it...
  • Hey, I bought the crankshaft sensor for my car but i havent replaced it yet due to the weather - Its is located next to the timing belt which has no distributor housing - The crankshaft sensor is located either in the distributor or in the crankshaft .. mine is in the crankshaft so i dont have to replace the whole distrubutor housing - I dont know why your cranksensor is in the disributor when mine is in the crankshaft since we both have the same year, make & model cars - I hope you car is still running fine and ill let you know if the crankshaft sensor was the problem in my car - Greetings from Los Angeles ...
  • hello from twin cities,mn...mine is running like a champ...if you don't have a check engine light(like me)never said mine was crank sensor...6-7 hour of labor just to get to crank sensor...have to remove timing belt just to get to that...good luck with that ....i got my part at salvage yard for 113$...no light probly not a sensor!
  • Hey donny, I already replaced the crankshaft sensor but i read on the internet that if the crankshaft sensor is replaced that i also have to replace the distributor housing--When i first scanned my computor the only 2 codes i got was for the 02 sensor which i already replaced and PO715 which is the speed input sensor but the code for the distributor housing which has the cam sensor didnt show up--today im going to adjust the valves and go for a test drive--if it stalls again then im going to replace the disributor housing like you did and ill let you know if that fixed my problem - BTW - when you scanned your car did the code for the cam sensor in the distributor housing pop up - I tried to give you my phone number but the owner of this forum took it down - Thanks for the reply bro I really appreciate it ... P.S. my brother is a mechanic and he told me that he had replaced the distributor housing about 2 years ago which is why i never thought that could be the problem ... anyway i hope to hear from you soon ...
  • hey whats up... I never got any code at all even when I had it hooked up and it stall with it hooked up still got nothing.. I was told that part is a common problem...good luck dude!
  • Hey whats up bro, Yeah I never got a code on that either and it is a common problem with these cars ... My brother replaced that distributor housing about 2 years ago and now i guess were gonna have to replace it again ... Thanks for your help bro .. now i know that part is gonna be the problem and i will let you know once i replace it ... Thanks again and it was nice working this out with you ...
  • schneidmschneidm Posts: 4
    Ok....so my 1999 CR-V wont start...well it is running now...but it wouldnt start before. Here's some back ground in case I can hit on a person with same problem.

    So last Summer, it was totally dying...loss of power....after about 20-30 minutes of summer driving in San Antonio Texas...ambient temp is 95 degrees. So basically, it was dying when HOT. It wasnt gradual. It was a sudden and total loss of power. 15-30 mins later....it would start again. So I went to the dealer and they knew NOTHING until an older experienced mechanic said it was the IGNITION RELAY which resides behind the glove box. So they replaced it for about $110 and the problem stopped. That was about 9-12 months ago.

    So I have this new relay now....and it has started doing something similar. Summer is upon us again and....while it has not died while I was driving...it did die on me at a traffic light....but it restarted immediately. However, yesterday while in my driveway....it refused to start...did not fire at all....turned over fine...but no fire. I also started to smell gas...so I assume it flooded. 24 hours later...in the morning...it started absolutely fine. This is a car that has been running beautifully for many months now.

    I have a theory. The day it refused to start, I had driven it fine in the morning...ambient temp was 75 degrees. later that day it refused to start when the ambient temp was 95 degrees. PLUS, I keep this BLACK car parked in the sun with its windows rolled up tight. The ambient temp in the cabin of the car was probably well over 100 degrees.

    My theory is that this ignition relay, which resides behind the glove box but within the cabin...fails when it is exposed to excessive heat. The heat can come from the surrounding cabin air temp...or it can be generated within the relay itself when the car is running...plus the problem is exacerbated by the Summer ambient air temp. Basically, I am thinking this Honda ignition relay is faulty by design....or some other part of the ignition system is sensitive to ambient air temperatures.

    So my attempted solution for now is to make sure I keep the windows partly down when the car is parked in the sun in order to keep cabin temps as low as possible.

    Anyone else have similar problem?
  • schneidmschneidm Posts: 4
    I want to add a little to my story above. Regarding this new relay I had installed....it did die on me once before during the Fall/Winter of 2012/13. I had let the car idle for about 30 minutes in my driveway....and it suddenly just died and would not restart. 12 hours later it started again no problem. My assumption is this ignition relay just got hot again while the car sat an idled for 30 minutes.
  • propwash49propwash49 Posts: 38
    You might want to check out your fuel pump relay. I've had two friends who had Accords, and they would stall out in the summer time when it got hot outside. Both problems were fixed immediately when they changed their fuel pump relays.

    The next time it won't start, turn it off and wait a few minutes. Then turn the ignition on, but DO NOT try to start the engine. Just turn the key so that the idiot lights illuminate. You should hear a momentary (2-3 second) buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car, in the area of the gas tank. This is the fuel pump running momentarily to pressurize the system. If you don't hear this (it may be necessary to open the tailgate and put your head near the floor, as close to the fuel tank as possible and let a friend turn the key so you can hear it better), you may need a new fuel pump relay. Good luck.
  • schneidmschneidm Posts: 4
    Thanks for that. Today the car went into total failure for first time. Would not start all day. It did occur to me that this could be a fuel pump problem. I'll do your test and then decide what's next.
  • schneidmschneidm Posts: 4
    More good info: Apparently the "ignition relay" I referenced above is realted to the fuel pump as well...so the same relaycould both inhibit a spark and stop fuel flow. see below...

    http://hondaprelude.danielcadams.com/how-to-replace-the-main-relay-in-a-honda-cr- -v/

    The Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) main relay in Honda CR-Vs manufactured between1997 and 2000 is located on the passenger's side behind the dashboard and glove box. This relay actually contains two relays within it--one that controls the power to the fuel injectors and a second relay that powers the fuel pump.
  • donny1300donny1300 Posts: 7
    Y you message me...not the same problem
  • My car has 186000 miles on it. I've had it for 7 years and its been great up until about 6 months ago. It started with a strange jerking when I let off of the gas (I'm sure the people in traffic thought I was brake checking them) I took it in immediately and was told that the throttle position sensor (TPS) was bad and that I'd have to spend over a grand to replace the entire throttle body unit. I did some research and ordered the sensor to replace myself. It ran great for a couple of weeks and then started acting like its out of gas. The computer still gives a TPS error and I feel like if that's the case again that there HAS to be something else causing this problem. I've been driving it and just dealing with the weirdness because it only does it when it's trying to shift (sometimes if its having trouble shifting I can jiggle the gear shifter and it'll slip into gear) and most of my driving now is done on the interstate without traffic.
    The other night I opened my hood to after driving for only about 5 miles and it was so hot to the touch that I could barely touch the hood brace. My temperature gauge is consistent and has never gone hot.

    I'm wondering if anyone has some ideas as to what I should try that will actually fix my car. I was thinking about trying the ignition switch and maybe the temperature sensor but I'd like some opinions.

    Ps I have a friend with an '08 jeep compass that's doing the exact same things.
  • I just bought a new 2013 CRV last month, and it has stalled on me three times while driving, and when you turn air on stereo goes in and out. I took it to them scared wondering why a new car would do this. They are looking at it but now I don't even feel safe to drive it again. I wish they would offer something else reading to many bad things about the CRV..
  • do anybody knows about honda crv 2001 i have problem with it
    sometimes while im driving in a stop sign or signal light the car turn off and in a minute or two start back on please if anybody knows
  • Daughter had a issue with her 2003 Honda Accord. The engine would stall if either turn signal was turned on or if the brake pedal was pushed. Dealers and North American Honda said that they had never heard of this problem before. Dealer did a " computer update " and she still had the same problem. I made a road call from Jasper,Al to Lexington, Ky.. I replaced the "mult-function" switch, that turns on and dims headlights, and turn signals. ( 2 plastic covers, steering wheel does not have to be removed) I had a battery charger on the disconnected battery, while brother and I were replacing the switch... Battery would never go over 50% "charged"... Also, replaced battery. The old " mult-function" switch looked like it had fresh engine oil dripping out of it.. Daughter had been told that the ECM was bad and it would cost more than the car was worth..
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