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Dodge Ram General Shopping Questions

xeremehxeremeh Posts: 3
edited March 12 in Dodge
After entering a lovely 4-car pileup with mine being the 3rd in line there, I've been looking around. I don't have any kids and drive mostly on the highways in-town and on a few 180 mile trips throughout the year, so most of my MPG is highway. I'm currently interested in the Dodge Ram 1500 series. I'm capping myself at $10,000, which has been putting me with mostly 00-03 models with around.. 80k-100k miles.

I've also been looking for mostly 2x4 regular cabs. I'm about to go take a gander at a n '01 1500 extended cab 5.2L V8 with 61.5k miles on it ( which I think is quite low, which leads me to believe the previous owners may've taken decent care of it). I'm wondering just a few simple things...

Will the difference between regular and extended cabs play a price in fuel economy? I read that it's about 19mpg cap on the highways, but can't find anything that'll compare regular to extended cabs.

Every young man enjoys knowing they have a V8 under the hood, but what is the difference between the 5.2 and 5.9 as it would matter to me (I don't tow that often, so it's not an issue).

I'm mainly looking at Dodges because I enjoy the body style, image, and they haven't let me down yet over the few that I've owned. What else might you suggest that is out there?

Dealership versus used car lots versus private sellers? Being at this area in Texas, I know that alot of cars are flooding the market from the.. well, flood in New Orleans, and one must be careful.

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • hey im interested in trading in my 98 expedition for a mid to late 90s ram 1500 or 2500. any have any advice for finding a good one?
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    A late 90's (98-up) would be the more ideal model. These model years saw the most refinements in terms of interior and feature content. The 98 and later models featured the Quad Cab 4-door models.

    As with any vehicle, look for all service records and ALWAYS,ALWAYS,ALWAYS get a CARFAX report. This has saved people from buying other people's junk.

    These trucks were good vehicle's in terms of reliablity and quality. The early model years(94-96) were plagued with tranny models. Speaking of tranny's, if you're interested in a 4WD model, USE 4X4 BEFORE PURCHASING. The transfer cases on these trucks are known for breaking down if not used correctly. If not 4X4, then look for a low-mile Quad Cab 4X2 with 5.2L(318) or the 5.9L(360). I say Quad Cab because the of the longer-wheelbase over the standard cab models produce a better ride quality. If for towing purposes, definetely try to find a low-mile 5.9L-equipped SLT model. They have the better rear-end and towning capability.

    I just gave my son my 2000 1500 Off-Road 5.9L. This was one of the most trouble free vehicles I've ever owned. BUT BE WARNED: Pre '02 Rams love gas. But, you coming from an Expedition, I'm pretty sure you're used to it.
  • thanks i really appreciate the advice
  • It only seems to happen when on highbeam that the headlights on my 96 Ram 1500 all of a sudden begin flashing for 5 or 6 times. I switch to low beam, and it doesn't happen. It may occur once or more during headlight operation.
  • dmh1dmh1 Posts: 4
    Any advice on how to price my 1996 4X4 Dodge RAM 1500 to sell? I've tried Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book but they don't list features I know have value, specifically the HEAVY DUTY TRANNIE/COOLANT, HD REAR END, HD SHOCKS, HD TOWING PKG. It's a Laramie XLT (no extended cab) with a plow hookup, remote start, and is in perfect condition except for a quarter sized area of rust on one fender. Only 90,000 miles. I've taken such good care of it, but really don't need it and I can't afford the luxury of a lower mileage vehicle, so it's gotta go. Any ideas of what value to add for those extra features? The truck is in Southeastern Wisconsin. Hope someone can help - would also welcome buyer inquiries.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,014
    Try posting your question in Real World Trade In Values. Chances are you'll get some good advice there.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sorry for the tardy response.

    The 5.9 (360 cid) is a the same block as the 5.2 (318 cid) but with a longer stroke and slightly larger bore. In truck applications they both have a reputation for making excellent low-end torque when compared to most Ford and GM engines of the day, with valve timing and cam profile the principal factor.

    The 360 has noticeably more power when all other things are considered equal (weight, rear axle ratio, etc.), and those that seem to favor thrust and acceleration are generally prone to bemoan the 318 in the big Dodge.

    However, over the years I've seen and known plenty of 318-equipped RAMs that get the job done. In fact, a good friend of mine had a '94 RAM that pulled a 3500 pound trailer and farm tractor for quite a few miles. Now the same truck with a 360 would have pulled better, but the 318 will do it, albeit with less tappable power but also using less fuel.

    Of the two, the 318 is going to be more wallet friendly at the gas pump when you're not needing the available power.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • hemi_kyhemi_ky Posts: 3
    What do you all think will happen to the value of our trucks (the ones with gasoline engines) once Dodge releases 1500's with diesel engines? I'm concerned that our value will bottom out quicker than normal.

    I've talked to a lot of people, and they said they would've gotten a 2500 with a Cummins, but they didn't like the stiffer ride. Now that 1500's will have diesel's, that's the truck most people will be getting unless they need to pull heavy loads.
  • bigz04bigz04 Posts: 12
    I'm thinking of buying a 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck 4x4 Quad Cab with the 5.9-Liter-CUMMINS-Turbo-Diesel. and trading in my 2004 Chevy Silverado Z71 4x4 Ex-Cab with the 5.3L V8 for it because my Chevy is having Speedo issues that can't get fixed by dealer with only 27,000 miles on it. I paid $37,000 for truck new in 2003 with a 6" lift and wheels/tires. I get 18 mpg on the hwy at 70 mph. Any one think this is a good upgrade? I'm looking for something more reliable with better or same mpg... But I heard Dodge is not as good of a truck in terms of off-roading, however I get really mad when the service department starts knowing me by name so if I do this I'm not going back to a GM product...
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    If you do regular ff-roading, the Cummins is not a good idea. It's an extremely heavy engine and your front suspension will be lunch meat in short order. You may be happier if you can find a 2500 Power Wagon with the Hemi and the factory off-road parts (disconnecting sway bar, locking diffs, 12,000 pound winch, rocker bars). It's specifically designed for that environment, and the Hemi will be far more forgiving in the dirt.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bigz04bigz04 Posts: 12
    You shouldn't worry. Talking to a lot of new Diesel owners since I've been thinking of getting rid of my truck. Thanks to the new emission laws you can no long buy a new Diesel and think your going to get the old 20+ MPG they used to get. One friend with a 2008 Ford is only getting 14 mpg unloaded Dodge or should I say Cummins is a bit better at 16 mpg but with the price for Diesel fuel now and the over all higher sticker price, there really is no more benefit to a Diesel engine unless you really need the towing power and let us not forget the wonderful turbo lag which I find to be really bad in the Chevy Diesels...
  • bigz04bigz04 Posts: 12
    Thanks, that is what I was thinking. I never was to impressed with the Power Wagon either, Think I just got to spoiled with the Full-time 4wd that chevy and only chevy offers. Just something nice about being able to put a truck in Auto 4wd and let the truck tell its self at any speed you need more traction in the front when the road conditions change, for example driving in the winter from a warm state into a cold state while its raining turning into freezing rain then to snow or even better be able to push in the 4Hi at any speed when going from a paved road straight into mud. Usually after a rain heading to a job sight.
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