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Nissan Maxima Electrical Issues



  • I have a 2000 Maxima GLE model and it wont start. It started off with doing this intermittently and now it just wont bulge. The battery is fairly new and when I turn the switch to start the vehicle, it just clicks (like a small knocking sound). I wanted to know if anyone has experienced the same and if they think its the starter or the ignition switch? I dont want to change the starter and still have the issue persist. Also I recently noticed that there is a clicking sound that comes from the lock and window controls on the drivers sound while the vehicle is turned on. I wonder if this has anything to do with the vehicle not starting? Any help would be appreciated. I love nissan models but this maxima has been giving me issues. I miss my 93 240SX...never had any issues with it at all even at its old age.
  • I would suggest that you double check the connections at the battery post. You may have a loose connection or deposits on the posts or on the inside of the of the cables.
    Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it isn't defective. I once had new batteries fail in a row. You may have a "vampire" drain on the door lock actuator or the window motor that is drawing down current on the battery after the car is turned off.
  • The past two days my car has been acting as if the "unlock" button is being held down. It seems to be at random intervals, but today it has gotten terrible! It will randomly make a clicking noise, flash the lights, unlock and the front windows go down! Tonight it started doing it when I'd take the keys out of the ignition! I finally got them to stay up (or so I thought), but I came out from practice and found my windows all the way down.

    Is this just a fuse issue?
  • 2000 Nissan Maxima: Car was running. Pulled into Sears and asked them to check battery. Since my battery was only 1 year old, they replaced the battery with a new one. When the technician tried to crank the car, it would not start. Everytime the switch is turned on, the 40 amp ignition fuse will blow. The switch never gets to the crank position. URGENT!! Please help.. WILL
  • I get a code 51
    Replaced injectors
    When warm, right as closed loop, sets code.
    Tach will fluctuate, work normal, go dead intermittently.
    Data shows fuel pump circuit fault and Air Flow Sensor fault intermittently.
    When (rich/lean) Compensation goes lean, engine light illuminates, when it goes rich, light goes off.
    When tach is dead, no engine light at all.
    Always code 51.

    I cleaned Air Flow Sensor, all grounds and batt. terminals, still get open injector fault code.
    Could be distributor or cap, plugs, wires, coil, other if just misfire, but
    with fuel pump losing voltage it could lose pressure to 6th injector, no?
    The tach ...I think is somewhere in intermittent open, yes?

    I am going to test conductivity from ECM harness plug to fuel pump et al, and maybe ohm test wires, plugs and whatever component I can if I find schematic.

    Could it be something in the loom by right strut mount?
    Anyone have this problem? Is it ECM? or harness short? or some combo deal to throw more parts at?
    Thanks for any ideas...
  • shoptalkshoptalk Posts: 1
    It appears there are several question about Maxima's having starting problems. Other than checking terminal grounds I cannot find any solutions. My 2000 Maxima problem started 4 weeks ago. It would periodically crank over but not start. It was suggested the fuel pump. I would turn the ignition to on for a few seconds, could hear the pump run, turn to start and no problem, it would start. After about a week it would not crank over at all. At times it will jump start, other times it will not. At times you can jump the starter, other times you can not. Letting it sit several hours would allow it to start again. Possible causes, fuel pump, crank sensor, ignition switch, starter, a safety lock out? Every time the mechanic has it for a few days, it always starts. He has nothing to investigate. Please help?
  • jcioffi852jcioffi852 Posts: 1

    My stepson has the 1996 Nissan Maxima from .... Every major artery has been changed in order to get the car crank and turn over. All sensors replaced, fuel pump, alternator, starter, coils, name it. We just changed the ECM Computer...The car ran great for four hours then suddenly decided not to start. We spoke to the mechanic and he says that he thinks the plugs are fouled with fuel that is bypass a faulty fuel injector, After $1200 I am out of money and ideas. Please help.
  • amazyunamazyun Posts: 2
    My nissan maxima act like i am holding the unlock all the time. as soon as I take my key out of the ignition, the front windows roll down by themself. sometime I will have just enough time to get out the car and lock it. But it will take few minutes before the car unlock itself and roll the windows down.
    Does anybody experiance this problem before? if so, what is it?
  • amazyunamazyun Posts: 2
    Have you ever got the solution to your problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Sounds a bit like the diagnostic approach is chaotic and that you are throwing parts at the car. I understand the frustration, certainly, but it seems like it's time to step back and get more methodical.

    So if the car cranks but doesn't start, first step is to see what isn't happening---either:

    a no spark
    b. no fuel
    c. no compression

    So you get a spark tester and start there. If there is spark, then you get a NOID light to test for injector pulse, and a fuel pressure gauge to check for fuel pressure in the fuel rail. If there is spark, and fuel, then you do a compression test.


  • majorplusmajorplus Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. It is an automatic transmission. It is a very good car, but sometimes when I drive it maybe 10 miles and then go to the store or somewhere for 10 minutes I come out and my car will not crank. It turns over so it isn't the battery. It also smells like gas very bad and I have white smoke coming out of the mufflers. It has... See more also been stalling out when I stop at traffic. When it stalls out it takes me about 5 - 15 minutes to get it started again. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they have no idea what is going on with my car.I have also run a scan & I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, (2)crank shaft sensors. Pls, Let me know what you think the problem could be. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    edited May 2010
    Here again, someone has to pounce on the car WHEN it's in this no-start mood. Then you can check as to what is possibly missing from the equation of gas + spark + compression.

    I'm wondering if you have one or more misbehaving fuel injectors which are dumping fuel into the cylinders---in essence, flooding your car's engine with excess gas.

    Another possibility is that spark is disappearing randomly.

    Intermittent problems ARE very difficult--but there's no sense testing the car while it's running right.

    My only other thought is that if there are no codes, then you have to suspect those components that don't THROW codes----and many of these are fuel related.


  • fizz1fizz1 Posts: 3
    On my 2001 is between the passenger headlight and the prestone bottle. It's a beige box. I had a similiar problem and i took it out and redid the solders. They were cold solders. After this all went fine.
  • I have the same problem. My 2000 Maxima SE has 205.000 miles on it and started fine until about a year ago. Every once and a while the car would have trouble starting but nothing to serious...about two weeks ago the car started to need 2+ cranks to start...then got to the point where I had to try it 12 times to get it to start. I put SEAFOAM in the gas tank to clean the injectors,. and that seemed to help the problem but not solve it. Took it to a Mechanic and was told it was most likely the starter or ignition switch, The starter is 100.000 miles old, I have a new alternator, spark plugs look ok, ignition coils are ok. battery is ok and so are the terminals... I don't really have any sugestions but it is a common problem..HELP I don;t know if its worth fixing at this point, its a great car and well kept
  • fizz1fizz1 Posts: 3
    My fuel, speedometer, odometer, rpm, temperture gauges are acting up. No fuse problem. don't seem t have a ground problem. Is my problem the cluster itself?
  • My AC blower motor on my '99 Maxima with automatic air is working intermittently. When the motor isn't working, the security system also appears to be inoperable, based on the fact that the system warning chimes don't sound off. Any help locating the common ground to these 2 systems is greatly appreciated.
  • I have a love/hate deal going on with the wife's maxima. Here's the deal:
    P1320 regularly and 0301 one time. I'm already VERY familiar with the ignition coil scenario on this POS, so I check cylinder 1 by disconnecting the ignition coil while its acting up(running rough). This didn't seem to be the issue, so I did the same for the other 5 with no luck. So then I decided to replace all of the plugs with NGK platinums since its been a while. Once I did that, it REALLY started running badly, so I decided to buy 1 autozone coil and try it in cylinder 1--well that didn't work and it seemed to run even rougher so I went back to the original OEM coil. So we have kept driving it and the engine light went from just being on to flashing randomly(not all the time) and it seems to be misfiring like crazy/getting worse.
    Now, here's the strange part--if its running really rough, sometimes I can shut it off and restart it and it will run absolutely fine for the rest of that trip! Of course the light stays on. Then next time I start it, its a disaster again. This only works 1 out of every 20 times.
    It has roughly 155K on it and I'd like to keep it running since I have another baby OTW. Thanks for any suggestions! If your fix works, I'll send you money for a case of your favorite booze--within reason!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I'd take a chance on a crankshaft positioning sensor for these symtoms/codes.

    It's only a guess, since I don't have the car in front of me, but it's a very plausible guess. And you can deduct the cost of the sensor from my booze if I'm wrong :)


  • Joe--Thanks for the advice. When I lookup the CPS for the maxima it lists a Front and Rear--would I replace just one or both?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    If I had to guess about that, I'd replace the REF one, that's on the upper oil pan and faces the crankshaft pulley. You're makin' me squirm here because that's a $90 part isn't it?


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