Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda5 Tires & Wheels



  • davec15davec15 Posts: 2
    We live in upstate NY...we have a 2008 Mazda5 with 50,000 miles on it, and love it except for the unexpected yearly tire expenses. In the 3 years we have had it, we have had to put 8 new tires on, we are getting about a year on them....which is only about 16,000 miles each. The first set were the Toyos that came with it, annd then we went to Hankook, as suggested by the dealer for increased tread wear...and while better, it's hardly what i'd consider acceptable. My wife drives it primarily with our two we are not whipping around in it. We did, by the wa, purchase snow tires, which do make a big difference in the winter...and i was hoping would also help to extend the life of the non-winter tires....but no significant difference there.

    What can I do? Tires suggestions? Any other suggestions? This is really getting to be frustrating and difficult to afford. Any help would be appreciated.
  • First off neither of those companies makes a decent tire. If you don't want to keep doing this AND you don't want to do any suspension work (where the problem is) go to and find the HARDEST, longest wear rated tire you can and hope for the best. It will probably be a Michelin.

    The REAL solution is to figure out HOW tghe tires are wearing and then what part of the suspension is causing the problem. It isn't like the car is so heavy you can't get a tire to hold up and even if you were throwing the car around there ae tires that would take that.

    I have changed all the suspension and haven't had tire wear issues - fortunately and I do drive a bit aggressively in corners. It is WAY fun now!

    Among other things you probably have camber issues.

    Good luck,

    2008, 5
  • davec15davec15 Posts: 2
    Larry - was this in response to my post inquiring about better lasting tires for our mazda5? If so, do you know much about the Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum(Grand Touring All-Season)? I found in on tire rack...600 A A, for $110 each.
  • Yes, my reply was to your post. I am not a big fan of Kumho however, the 600 is a good number but, remember the manufacturer assigns its own numbers. See how they get reviewed.

    What is the dealer telling you why the tires aren't lasting? And how are they wearing? Is it front AND rears?

    Good luck,

  • Mazda 5s need adjustable camber kits in the back.

    My car is still under warranty and have raised quited the stink about how the tires were cupping severely after 40,000 km even after rotating them.
    Car was driving loudly and there was a "thump, thumping" in the back.
    Took it into the dealership and they said it needed new tires due to cupping. They said it needed an alignment, but that one had just been done.
    They wanted me to buy new tires even though the alignment was off. That didn't make sense to me, seeing how the problem would just occur again. That sense of illogical thinking sent me online to research the car and the alignment problems. I called the dealership on this strange line of thinking and they told me that they they have been researching solutions about this for some time and a lot of people are having problems. Well, why didn't they tell me about this? They said that there was a "non-Mazda" part (adjustable camber kit) that would fix the problem and that it would cost me $600.
    NO WAY was I going to pay for something Mazda should be addressing and fixing.

    After a week of waiting, the dealership said they would fix it under warranty by putting in a new right adjustable camber kit and aligning it 2 times to get the numbers right.

    I do still have to buy new tires, so in the same situation as you are, but the even sadder thing is there a lot of Mazda owners out there that this will happen to and won't know what to do.

    Get it fixed, under warranty and raise a fuss!
    Mazda Canada should step up and recall their cars to fix them.
  • gnuguygnuguy Posts: 9
    You mention that you "changed all the suspension." Was there any one or two components that seemed to produce the best tire wear results?

    Our front tires wear quite fast which makes sense since all the weight is over the front tires. However, the wear is even.

    Currently we're running Kumho Ecsta ASXs. We might actually get around 20k or 25k out of these.

    It still sucks as far as I'm concerned. With our other vehicles (2000 Tracker and a very disappointing '98 Malibu) we were getting >50k out of a set of tires.

    We dumped the piece-of-trash Malibu for the Mazda. Except for the tire wear issue, it's been a big improvement.
  • There has been a LOT of posting on here about each persons particular problem with tire wear. The one thread that caught my attention is that if the frame wasn't put together perfectly straight then it really opens a can of worms on trying to get the tires aligned.

    In the rear, as the one post infers, there is only one alignment parameter that can be addressed by the dealership and I believe that is toe. If one needs/wants to address camber than yes, it is an aftermarket product that needs to be installed. $600.00 is OUTRAGEOUS! That is simply theft.

    My friend and I did it in a VERY cramped work space with ice dripping on us without all the tools we needed in an afternoon. There is one bolt that Mazda installed that is too long that was a pain in the tush to get out and back in (I would have changed it except we were running out of time).

    Doing one side also shows the complete ignorance of the Mazda dealer network. Both might as well be done at the same time. Also I would NOT install "factory" quality bushings of those camber adjusters. The factory quality rubber in Mazda bushings is JUNK. Go with the nylon/neoprene and find a COMPETENT shop to do the work.

    As far as front wear. That does get a bit pricer however if they can't get the front end aligned (ask for and GET the print outs and then take them to someone who can read) there are "race" camber adjusters (top shock mounts) made in either Austrailia or New Zealand. When I was looking I wasn't aware of any made in Europe or North America - that may have changed.

    I wasn't having tire wear issues and, didn't want any, so I got proactive and started chaning things out before that ball got rolling.

    The bottom line gets to: how long are you going to keep the vehicle and what are the tires costing you? What is the cost effective path to follow?

    I will say again, with the lower springs, Koni shocks, new bushings and better tires this things is just a hoot to drive. My wife wasn't wild about getting on and off freeways! Until............... she took the car in for the A/C repair and she got a chance to do some on ramp driving and now she is thrilled as well.

    Ultimately you will probaly have to leave the very friendly and professional Mazda dealerships for service people who actually know and understand how to REPAIR a car, the dealerships ( I've used 2 now) are clueless.

  • Sorry I missed a couple of your points.

    No, I didn't notice any more difference from one piece or the other on tire wear. And no again, on fronts wearing faster...... there isn't that much weight up front to cause that much UNDUE tire wear.

    The mileage you are getting is typical of the problem chassis and it is TOTALLY unacceptable.
  • gnuguygnuguy Posts: 9
    I agree. The vehicle really is fun to drive. My only complaint has been the tire wear.

    Thank you very much for a very thorough, informative response.
  • billy00billy00 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem I have a 2010 Mazda 5 and the tire wear is horrible. Just to be clear it does not matter what tire rim or anything you do. There is a problem with the way the suspension is on the car and Mazda is not addressing it yet. Basically by what I was told they do not have enough complaints yet to warrant a recall and when they get information from the dealerships they are being told there is nothing wrong with the shocks or the alignments on the cars by the dealers. So if we want this fixed its going to take all of us going into Mazda dealers to show them the problem and filing complaints with Mazda. This does need to be addressed and fixed because theres no reason tires should have to be replaced this often on any vehicle. They need to upgrade the shocks and suspension or something because if you look at your rear tires I will be willing to bet they bow out slightly at the bottom and don't sit on the car straight. At least mine do and that would mean the shocks and suspension is the problem. I personally will not stop calling Mazda until this issue is addressed.
  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    edited August 2011
    Knock your socks off........ how many tires you want to ruin in the mean time?

    If you are indeed wearing the insides (probably) or the outsides of the rear tires off then it is indeed a camber problem. I am ancient, so I already forget the price but, you can get a pair of ADJUSTABLE rear camber arms (I think for well less than $100.00) and SOLVE the problem (Mazda's possible legal repsonsibility not withstanding).

    Somewhere on one of these threads is my Cliff notes version on how to do it. With the exception of one bolt that is too long and needs replaced it is no big deal. You all but only need a 14 and 17MM wrench and socket (with handle). And no, I didn't drop the "axle" (it isn't really an axle by any stretch). Loosened some bolts and all but forced the long bolt past its obstruction.

    Good luck with Mazda!

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    edited August 2011
    I had posted a link somewhere on edmunds here to those adjustable arms, too. SPC makes them. First place that came up in my 20-second search just now has them for $100 each side. I'm sure a more extensive search will turn them up for cheaper.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I wonder if there is some frame deforming happening after some use...
    Anyway, I wanted to chip in and say that must not be the only fix needed. Tires wear out uniformly for some folks. For me it looked like that although I saw extensive wear inside on one tire. We have 24 k miles and tires will probably not reach 30k.
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out. On a McPherson there is some camber oscillation, too.
    The new 2011 model has re-tuned suspension, to reduce lateral movement of passengers... blah blah blah. I wonder if the older (like the 2010 I have) suspension allows for too much travel and the tires become pencil erasers on the road, constantly moving in and out, just a little more than other vehicles on the road. If that is the case, it is design issue with the angle and length of components. It is un-fixable - not completely, anyway.
    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.
    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer? What am I looking for, here?
    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.
    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers :) Mazda already did the math. I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out.

    Not completely sure what you mean. When suspension goes up and down, yes, you will see more negative camber on the compression stroke and less when extending. It is the nature of independent suspension.

    It can get slightly worse as springs get tired and start sagging. It is possible the springs are too soft, but I really doubt it, not on a vehicle that handles as well as the mazda5 does.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    What I mean is that the lower arm si connected to the frame and the moving end, at the wheel describes an arc, the arm itself being the radius. That brings the wheel in and out.
    The nature of the springs was just a speculation. This car does lean in turns (I love it). I mean how else would Mazda re-tune the suspension in the new model? Oh, wait, sway bars? Hmmmm.

    So the camber issue is crystal clear. I bought the car fully aware of the issue and I tell everyone buying it to allow for it or budget for the fix.
    But what causes the entire uniform early wear?
    Shocks picks please!
  • You may want to do a LOT, as in a LOT, of research on just plain ol suspension geometry before you go down this rabbit hole. A number of your premises aren't really valid.......

    I can't imagine the frame moving AFTER it leaves the factory unless it hits something. That the frame left the factory not straight I can imagine. Based on my research and, for the most part personal experience, there is NO suspension part on the 5 that can't be upgraded - it all exists somewhere and for a price.

    H&R springs aren't too badly priced and will lower the car about .75" which I think makes it look a LOT better. A number of people have suggested that with the stiffer springs and stock shocks the rebound is too much. The only shock *I* found that was engineered for a lowered ride height is the Koni Sport (yellows). I have found the combination FANTASTIC (along with the better tires) The Yellows are also "adjustable". I like a firm ride - some don't. Koni shocks are not cheap! ALL of the suspension bushings are available in something other than rubber (firmer/stiffer). I also like what that did to the ride.

    With enough knowledge, money and in the right hands, non-normal tire wear CAN be eliminated. I've upgraded a number of suspensions primarily on VW's and none of those handled as well as this 08 5 does right now.

    There are people auto-crossing 5's.

    Good luck!
  • I missed a number of your questions - sorry, I'll try again.

    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.

    If you want to arrest movement you are looking at stiffer springs. Stiffer shocks would be second. You can crank the Koni's up pretty good.

    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer?

    In practically everyone's mind it would be stiffer. Predicated on your thesis you would also want stiffer.

    What am I looking for, here?

    You tell us!

    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.

    How stiff a spring are you going to? Nothing that is engineered for the 5 and readily available is going to get into those kinds of terrirtories. How fast do you want to be travelling? I mean for that kind of event you'd be doing something like 55 or better (miles not kilometers per hour) on tight off ramps.

    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers Mazda already did the math.

    So has H&R, Eiback (affordable) and the Japanese after market - those are WAY expensive)

    I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?

    If you want REAL improvement it is Koni. I've been using them for a month or so and noticed HUGE improvements. I chose them because they are the best....... and about the only engineered shock for lowered 5's.

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Thank you for your replies!
    I'll look at Koni. I am not interested in lowering the car. It is low enough for what we do it. I do not want to stiffen or soften the ride either, at least I have to be honest and say I don't know that I do.
    Why did you change the bushings? Other then the rear stabilizer bar (I thigk) sqeaking issue, I didn't think there was an issue.
  • Yes, the squeaking noise was indeed a lot of the motivation. Not knowing WHICH busing was/would squeak I said to hell with it and did all of them. They are all rubber and as far as *I* am concerned all junk. Beyond that I have not read the definitive answer to why all of these tire problems and I wanted to preclude some of that as well.

    Once under there and tearing things apart its just as easy to do them all at the same time.

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    To all Bridgestone G 019 owners -
    How has it been so far? How is the wear?

    I am about to do the same thing.
Sign In or Register to comment.