Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Saab 9-5 Climate Control Questions

2»

Comments

  • Maybe a little late for you, but at least for someone else. I have the for-sure solution to the interior fan not working and the #22 40 amp fuse blowing all the time. This fuse is on the same circuit as the SAI (Secondary Air Induction) device. The SAI works with the Ox sensor at start up for only the first couple of minutes. I just figured this out. I removed this device (next to the battery - round, black, pump looking device that has two pipes and one electrical connector). Took the metal half off (don't mess with the plastic side). Looked inside at the motor. Wow, look at that, one of the wires (red) is touching one of the brush holders and is shorting it out through the insulation. Solution: cut this the slightest bit shorter and crimp another connector on there, boom done. You can also just disconnect this device all together if you like as it only effects the emissions in the first five minutes or so. This will probably help most people with a heater fan not working at all. Now to figure out why there's no hot air. Uuugh.
  • The fault came up with 1-08 left blend door problem which I have read here can be fixed with 2 parts. But nowhere have I read that its the rear where the hot air comes out in my car so I hope this fixes this issue ? At the moment I run the A/C on lo and get cold air everywhere including the rear of the console. Anyway I have ordered the sleeve and shaft and hope this will fix this issue any ideas or have I screwed up ?
  • I replaced the 40 AMP (which blew everytime I started the car and needed replaced) with a 40AMP circuit breaker. Its kinda bulky, but it fit easily in the fuse compartment. It would try to blow, but would reset. I had NO heat and after this fix.. I never had to mess with it again and I had heat all winter. Hope it works for you!!!
  • Hey,
    I have the same issue and the error code that came up in mine was 1_19 ...did u ever end up finding a solution to this ? the air that comes through when driving I believe is RAM air ...
  • Not sure if you read this. Here is the for-sure solution to the interior fan not working and the #22 40 amp fuse blowing all the time. This fuse is on the same circuit as the SAI (Secondary Air Induction) device. The SAI works with the Ox sensor at start up for only the first couple of minutes.

    I removed this device (in front of the battery - round, black, pump looking device that has two air pipes and one electrical connector). Took the metal half off (don't mess with the plastic side). Looked inside at the motor. Wow, look at that, one of the wires (red) is touching one of the brush holders and is shorting it out through the insulation.

    Solution: cut the red wire the slightest bit shorter and crimp another connector on there, boom done. No more short. You can also just disconnect this device all together if you like as it only effects the emissions in the first five minutes or so. This will probably help most people with a heater fan not working at all.

    Double check that your #22 40 amp fuse is blown. If you just replace it, it will just blow again. You either have to fix it or replace the SAI unit. The SAI unit's motor will probably be pretty well melted from the short and may have to be replaced to pass smog.

    This should fix your problem and has nothing to do with and will not show up on the ACC codes!
  • Coincidentally after having a leaking heat transfer valve (I think that's what it is called) my heat now only works about 15% of the time. The air conditioner works fine. I checked the code and it comes up as a "0", so I don't think it's the blend doors.
    Any suggestions?
  • Ok, here is a link that describes the cheapest and easiest repair for a broken "blend door" shaft. This is very common.

    http://www.econmancer.com/?p=98

    If this is not your problem, here is a basic procedure for diagnosing interior heater problems:

    first check to see if you have enough coolant in your engine. Next, run your engine till full operating temperature. Now check the heater hoses that go through the firewall to the heat exchanger buried in your dashboard. They should both be quite warm almost hot. If one is cold, you have one of two problems: One, the heater hose system needs to be bled and is currently stuck with a vapor lock. Two, the valve or pump that sends hot coolant to the heater core is not engaged and is suspect

    If both hoses are hot and you have no heat it has to be the flap (blend door) that allows cold air to pass over the heat exchanger. Different things can cause this, fuse blown, lever arm broken (detached), electronic thermostat control malfunction.

    In the case of the Saab, if you pull the blend door motor off and move the blend door arm by hand you will get heat and you can start to diagnose the exact issue from there (ie, check motor, shaft etc.)

    Hope this helps.
  • Thanks... I tend to think it may be the vapor lock issue. Ever since they changed the heat transfer valve, it hasn't worked. Somebody else mentioned possible vapor lock, but gave me no clue how to check. I'll check the hoses tonight.
  • Ok, vapor lock. Look for the two hoses going into the heater core through the firewall. Look for the higher one if one is higher. Look for any bleed valve or screw near the highest point. Also look for a hole in the hose itself. It might be under the hose clamp. Take off the higher hose and run the engine with full coolant. If coolant flows out of the heater and not out of the hose, you have the right hose. Otherwise switch hoses. As the car runs it should fill up the heater core and push out air. Put the loose hose back on its fitting half way at an angle to continue to let air out while letting coolant flows back to the engine. Keep doing this until coolant flows out of the hose at an angle, and put the hose back on an tighten the hose clamp. If you do not have any coolant flowing at all, you have a valve problem. It may take 5 - 10 minutes for coolant to flow out the right hose at idle. Hope this helps.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Well, they never responded to thank you, but i found all your posts very informative. I'm not a Saab owner yet, but it is good to know there are people out there that know them well. And the short you found in the SIA pump thing was pretty impressive.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    or anyone, do you know when Saab started to hot galvanize their bodies to resist rust?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    No but most companies started doing this late 70s/early 80s.

    I don't recall that Saabs were ever particularly susceptible to rust anyway.

    MODERATOR

  • fogelsonfogelson Posts: 1
    I get cold air from the left side of the car and heat from the right side and rear seat heat when I should be getting air conditioning from all of the vents.. the code that shows is 1 11. What is wrong and what is the fix for this. Thanks.
  • My heat is not working properly! When I turn the car on, I have to slam the side or top of my dash to get the heat to turn on but now it has gotten to the point where all I hear is the faintest sound of what sounds like a fan with something stuck in it trying to rotate, trying to turn on but it doesn't! It works VERRRRY faintly when I press the button that has that swirly arrow inside of the car but thats not until I drive at 50 MPH or so and that is not even a guarantee! Today it just kind of completely stopped working no matter how hard or how much I hit the dash. Anyone have any idea what this could be??
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    A dead mouse stuck in the fan?

    Remnants of a mouse nest getting stuck in fan? They usually use what is handy and warm insulators. Car interior sound deadening underpadding is the material of choice...the little $%#&*! so and sos..

    Try parking with recirculate door closed in future but is not a solution in all cars.

    Rheostat gone bad in the fan switch?
2»
Sign In or Register to comment.