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Ford F-Series Electrical and Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • honhon Posts: 34
    I had that happen with my 59 Ford truck parked in the garage. I heard it cranking over, when I checked to see what was going on I found that since I had it in gear, it pushed my dryer up against the wall and put a dent in the dryer. Lucky it didn't start or push thru the wall. Turned out to be a short in the wiring, not a ghost. What a surprise that was.
  • Has anyone had problems with the icm going out about a half hour after putting a new one in? It's a 96 f-150 straight six. we've put three in so far and it runs great for 30 min. then it just shut's off. Is there a short maybe causing it to go? any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Not knowing the history of the truck it's hard to determine what else may be causing the failures (I assume the ICM fails completely). Here's a long shot, put a good voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine running and confirm the voltage is not higher than about 14 volts. Be sure all accessories are turned off. Raise the engine RPM and watch the meter, the voltage should remain constant +/- a volt or two. There's small a chance the voltage regulator is bad and the alternator is producing high voltage, causing the ICM to fail. Good luck. KF

    +++My 93 F-150 4.9/6 has been totally reliable since the day it was new.
  • Can someone tell me where the wires exit for the 4 aux switches on the dash? Have contacted several Ford dealers with no help...where are they hidden? Thanks
  • gard2gard2 Posts: 1
    battery goes dead over night what should i look for
  • jdr5jdr5 Posts: 1
    Just bought an 08 F150 FX4. I was towing my 17ft Whaler on the back roads without a problem. I proceeded to the main roads and suddenly it started to act up. It was shaking everytime I stepped on the gas. It seemed like it was running on 2cyl. not 8. Thank goodness I was going a short distance. When I shut down the engine and removed the boat, I headed to the dealership w/o a problem. They said everything checked out fine. Anyway, could this be an electrical or fuel problem, or both!

    Thanks
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Ford owner's manual page 2 or so says NOT to tow in the first 500 miles and in the first 500 miles of towing don't go over 70.

    Mark
  • MY 2003 F250 WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK. MY BRACK LIGHT WORKS. :mad:
  • I have installed a pair of aftermarket foglamps on the rear bumper of my 03 F350. I followed all directions but for some reason when i flip the toggle switch on, it blows my fuze. I've tried wiring them to the battery, to the fuze box, to the rear lamps, all the same result. They pull so much power, when i removed the fuze, the wire insulation began to melt. They are well grounded and the relay swith is good. Anybody got any ideas?
  • If your positive you have wired it right, try the following.

    One or both of the lamps are cheap and have a short. Try conecting them temporarely right at the battery with shorter wire. Verify the lamps are good.

    Fog lamps are by design to go on the front, a shorter distance. Sometimes the guage of the wire isn't large enough to handle the extra length. Extra length means more amps going through the wire.

    Depending how many watts each lamp is, you may have to just wire them sepperately from their own relay, same switch. Relays typically can only handle 30amps, thats about 400watts. If each light is 200watts, with the extra length your way over the max. The formula for solving if you know your algebra is watts=amps time volts. Looking at the bottom of your relay , it should be wired like this;

    Relay

    ___
    For Accessory
    ___

    | |
    I+ --> | | <---Ground

    |
    | B+

    Good luck
  • idfordidford Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F150 King Ranch crew cab. After I turn the ignition off the interior lights stay on. I have finally removed the Fuse relay that controls the interior lights. Is the fuse relay bad or is it something else. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Ford used various designs and features for this, but this is what you can do. Please make sure that the dimmer switch is not turned all the way up turning the light on. Next, if the light just wont go off by itself after exit. try exiting through passenger side. If problem is still present, unlikely that its the door switch. By the way, you will have to put the relay back in for these test. If this is a common type relay try switching it with one of your other ones. Relays rarely go bad. Next, test the relay socket for the ground that comes from the door switch. Ford also used a positive on some models. If you have the time delay feature for when you open the door or lift the handle, there may be a problem with that.
  • I had the same problem with my 2008 f250 the interior light ould not go off. took it to dealer and they reflashed the computer . Had no problem since.
  • 2002 f250 superduty diesel

    I hooked up a trailer with a short in the trailer wiring and lost my head lights and tail lights. checked all fuses ok, took it in to a garage and they think its the whole fuse box / control module. any ideas on problem and fix ???
    thanks rv
  • Assuming that the diagnosis from this shop is right, you only have 3 opions;

    Get it fixed.

    Drive only during the day.

    Or hard wire the system so everything works from your switch. If you have the headlight delay feature, by passing the moduel will eliminate this feature. Good luck with it.
  • My best guess would be a fusable link, possible under the hood, but I can't say for certain. You may want to consult a Ford truck mechanic (not just some pinhead walking around the service dept). I looked on my 2004 diesel F-250 but it's near impossible to see with the mass of wiring under there. Good luck. KF
  • 2005 F-150: The brake and turn lamps on my taillamps are not illuminating. Not the fuse. I can't seem to get the lamp housings off to check the bulbs even though I removed the two screws on the side after opening the bed door? Thanks for suggestions.
  • They may be just stuck, new you know. The only other thing holding those in are some push in one way lock tabs. You may have to wiggle them a little, but pulling straight back is how they come out with those screws removed. It sounds like your breaking the thing when those metal spring locks start to release.
  • vibe98vibe98 Posts: 6
    what can be the cause of the tail lights and the license plate lights not to work. I have change light bulbs, the light switch and the fuse inside the truck under the dash. Any suggestions?
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