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Subaru B9 Tribeca Engine Problems

PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,892
Having an issue under the hood of your Tribeca? This is the place to work it out!

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  • sheila5sheila5 Posts: 3
    Love my Tribeca! However, picked up my new Tribeca three days ago, drove it approximately 120 miles total. Something let loose in the engine and blew a hole in the engine block. Boy, were they surprised! The dealer is ordering a new short block and replacing the engine. Anybody heard of this happening before?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wow, that is just bizarre.

    All I can think of is the timing chain broke and the pistons hit the valves or something.

    That's the first time I've seen that here on Edmunds, not just for the H6 but for any Subaru engine.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,674
    Wow, That is strange. That's first H-6 (or any sort) that I'm aware that had that happen.

    Bob
  • jerrys2jerrys2 Posts: 188
    Wow ! I would demand a new vehicle, actually start out with a nice reasonable request and then go to SOA if necessary ... :lemon: ?

    Jerry
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    Ditto... I would definitely want a new vehicle. sorry to hear about your problem
  • wvroadswvroads Posts: 23
    Ditto on the replacement vehicle. I would go to the top if necessary to get a new vehicle. I am not even happy about having my car ripped into to replace the airbag module - wherever it is located. I just don't trust the work of local mechanics - not most of them anyway.
  • Update on the Tribeca engine that blew at 120 miles.... The bolts that hold the flex plate and torque converter between the transmission and engine block weren't properly installed or "torqued down". As the car was driven, these bolts backed out and the blow out was when one of the bolts came all the way out and blew a hole in the coolant jacket. This also made some kind of crack in the transmission too. Subaru is now replacing the engine and the transmission. As I am not a mechanic and don't understand mechanical language, I hope this makes sense. Thank you for your thoughts on this matter. (I can't wait to get my Tribeca back.)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Keep all the documentation once it's fixed up. The good news is that if you have any more problems down the road, I bet SoA will be more likely to help given what you had to put up with early on.

    -juice
  • WOW. I will ask for a new car. It will take awhile just to get the engine and tranmission, never mind the re-install. I think someone posted that it took weeks to get a airbag module, I just can't imagine how long the wait would be. Dealer's mechanic will likely to screw something up too. Check your state's new car lemon law. In NJ, where I live, you are entitle for a new car or refund if you 'new' car is out of service for more than 20 days in the first 2 years.
  • Update on the Tribeca with the blown up engine due to the bolts between the transmission and engine block being improperly torqued...

    I now have my Tribeca back after 23 days in the shop. The biggest problem was SoA had a difficult time properly packaging and shipping the transmission. One ended up sitting in Arizona in a leaking package before SoA "overnight" air-expressed another one. My car is back together again and seems to be running great.
  • Ouch... I feel your pain. I wonder how much overnite cost...... :) I think they lost money on your car...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the update.

    It was probably the first time they had to ship a new tranny, so I guess the learning curve applied.

    How many miles did you put on the loaner? :D

    Good luck in the future, hopefully you'll have a perfect one from here on out.

    -juice
  • I took my Tribeca to my local dealer because some of the fluids were low. ( It was prepared correctly at a different dealer). So the next morning, 75 plus degrees, when I start the car, it went up to 2100 rpm and stays there. After driving for a few minutes it went back down to normal rpm. Every day since then when I start the car it goes up to the same 2100rpm regardless of the ambient temperature. ( As an aside, I also had to re program my memory seats after I left the same dealer). Any ideas why this is happening and is it hard to correct?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That seems a bit high, but rpms should be elevated until the engine is fully warmed up. Do other owners observe the same thing?

    -juice
  • The thing is it started correctly until I took it in for the service. ( i.e. it cranked maybe once & then turned on. And the engine did not race at all). Now when I put it into drive, it sort of "bangs" into gear b'cse the engine is going too fast. Is there a any manual adjustment for the idle or is all computer controlled?
  • aka1aka1 Posts: 110
    Nothing to worry about- the dealer may have disconnected the battery (hence having to reporgram your seats) and the engine computer is still learning. It should usually correct it self within 4- 5 starts- however you are now consciously looking for any extra perceived RPM's at start up. Now that its cold, my B9 hits 2K rpm then settles back down...
  • Has anyone else noticed an annoying jerking sensation when you are just cruising along at non-highway speeds? This usually occurs when the engine has to pull a little harder prior to the transmission deciding to downshift.
  • I'm new to any subaru and I definitely do not like that my new B9 hits 2k right from the start and settles back down. None of my other cars would do that. I understand it's below 30 now outside, but its noise at 2k from the start is just quite a bit too loud to me. This is supposed to be the top of the entire Subaru line.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Subies are designed for ultra-cold climates, so elevated RPMs are probably there to provide a quicker warm-up and more importantly heat to those that are freezing cold.

    I say crank the tunes and enjoy the heated seats! :shades:

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    "I'm new to any subaru and I definitely do not like that my new B9 hits 2k right from the start and settles back down. None of my other cars would do that. I understand it's below 30 now outside, but its noise at 2k from the start is just quite a bit too loud to me. This is supposed to be the top of the entire Subaru line. "

    If you thought you were getting a luxury car, Subaru isn't it. Look at Audi, Lexus, MB, BMW if you are looking for that....

    -mike
  • "...

    If you thought you were getting a luxury car, Subaru isn't it. Look at Audi, Lexus, MB, BMW if you are looking for that.... "

    Don't think that LUXURY is the magic word to get your car to start the engine quitely. My 14 years old toyota started quiter than my new Tribeca. Now just hope that noise won't get much worse down the road, or I might just trade in to get a Acura or Lexus (right), or ...
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Also probably has an exhaust pipe the size of a dime and about 125hp.....

    -mike
  • It's been six weeks now and I still think it revs too high at the initial morning startup. FYI, after the initial startup of the day and the engine is warm, my other startups throughout the day never rev that high. If what other people are saying is true, then every startup, regardless of engine temperature should rev to that 1800 or so rpm. In fact, this is not the case. So I repeat my original question: is there a way for the service department at Subaru to lower or manually adjust that initial morning startup?
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    Engine temperature dependent.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    However, after the intial startup, the engine will still be warm. Try doing it while the engine is dead cold, ie: Turn it on, let it rev to 1800, turn it off, and then again. See if does it. Any startup after the first one after it's warmed up, will have a warmer intake temp, which is what effects that idle. 1800 is a bit high though 1200-1300 until warm is probably better. Even on my V8 Armada it revs to over 1000 RPMs until warm.

    -mike
  • Interesting thought, but doesn't sound too good for the engine.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Actually it's perfectly normal to have a raised idle when cold. Engines are built to operate at a particular temp range, too cold can be just as bad as running too hot. I've seen this in high performance engines in boats as well on the newer EFI engines they have to run a 140-150 degree t-stat whereas on the older carb motors they run 120 degree ones.

    -mike
  • tls8thtls8th Posts: 27
    I have 15,000 miles on my B9 while driving I-64 went to climb a slight hill while accelerating vehicle started to miss check engine light started blinking and traction control light came on. Bright sunny dry day 3/4 tank fuel only run premium fuel. But have owned car since 8/05 drive only on trips.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    A blinking CEL indicates an active misfire in one or more cylinders. Possibly bad fuel, bad plug or wire, bad injector, clogged fuel filter. If it stopped misfiring, usually the CEL will still say on solid and eventually clear after a couple days if the condition doesn't exist anymore.

    This and more about both lights are in your owners manual, BTW.

    -Brian
  • tls8thtls8th Posts: 27
    Unfortanately I'm now 350 miles from my B9 had to rent a car to get home vehicle sitting at dealer waiting till Tuesday morning to be looked at. Vehicle does sit when not traveling, I also shouldn't top off fuel at 1/2 to 3/4 tank I;m thinking bad fuel. exhaust has smeeled like varnish lately.
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