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Subaru B9 Tribeca Engine Problems

24

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like bad fuel to me.

    -mike
  • tls8thtls8th Posts: 27
    Staunton Subaru called this morning turns out fuel is fine but when I last had my oil changed at my home dealer they didn't add enough oil. Staunton Subaru says it won't even read on the dipstick. Had oil changed about 3,000 miles ago. They are waiting to here back from the regional rep, they tell me either Subaru will take care of it or my local dealer will.
  • tls8thtls8th Posts: 27
    Check my vehicle records my B9 has 15600 when it broke down with little to no oil, last changed at dealer 14240 miles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, so you're definitely covered. Keep those records just in case something creeps up down the road.

    -juice
  • tobinatortobinator Posts: 1
    My wife, dog, and I are in the process of driving from North Carolina to Utah and my 2007 Tribeca broke down in Kentucky and was towed to a dealer in Illinois. We are currently stranded here awaiting repairs.

    We left on Thursday and put 8-9 driving hours in without incident. Friday we started up again and were able to put about 4 hours on the road before our problem occurred. We stopped for fuel, car was down to about 3 gallons left in tank. Filled up with premium and approximately one mile from the gas station (BP) about a 1/4 mile onto the freeway the Traction Control Disabled light and Check Engine lights came on and the engine started to stall. I pulled over and the engine died. Would not restart.

    Subaru Roadside Service sent a tow truck and we were towed 54 miles to the nearest dealer. Got there 10 minutes before they closed and had to work to get anyone to take a look at the vehicle before Monday (when they said they would be able to get to us).

    Scan tool showed misfire on cylinders 5 & 6. They were able to get the engine to start and limped it into the shop. Everyone's assumption was bad fuel due to the timing. Saturday they drained the fuel and didn't find any water or debris like we thought may occur, also tested to ensure it was not E85. They put in new fuel and started the car. It seemed to idle fine but the engine misfires under load, now cylinders 2, 5 & 6. They are going to look further tomorrow (Monday) and see where the diagnosis leads.

    I am guessing a bad ignition coil now that fuel has apparently been ruled out. Any ideas? Anyone heard of anything like this before?

    This is my sixth Subaru and I worked at a large Subaru dealer for 9 years.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The odd part is that it stalled so soon after the new tank of gas. It just *HAD* to be the fuel.

    I know they use E10 around most places, maybe you did get a poorly mixed batch?

    Problem is, the ECU probably tried to adjust to that bad fuel, and now with a new tank it's probably trying to re-adjust. I'd reset it by pulling the battery, but it's in the hands of the techs and I'm sure they'll try that.

    Hope this gets sorted out soon, sorry 'bout your trip interruption! :sick:
  • texan5texan5 Posts: 23
    AC compressor is under the hood, right?

    The bolts that were used to put the AC compressor together on my BRAND NEW car are completely rusted -- see pictures below.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/palpatov/ACRust?authkey=3etmLST3cKo

    Is it just me or do others out there think that rust in the engine compartment of a brand new car is completely unacceptable?

    p.s Moderator, since according to the dealer, "they all do that", can the rust issue be made a separate topic?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,680
    Well, I would be more than a bit put off by that. I had 220,000 miles on my '96 Outback and there was not a speck of rust in the engine compartment other than the battery's tie down rod (due to corrosion over the years). Granted, any East Coast Subaru one sees on eBay is going to have a fair bit of rust on the engine guards, PS pump, etc., but those cars saw road use - they were not fresh of the lot!

    Seems reasonable to me to get that cleaned up as rust only gets worse and you certainly do not want the bolts snapping the first time it is taken apart for a timing belt change... :sick:
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Very strange, I wonder if anyone else can check to see if they observe the same thing?

    Having said that, it's just surface rust on a large bolt, so I doubt it'll ever matter beyond the ugly aesthetics.
  • I just checked the bolts and you are correct, there is some surface rust on a few of the bolts. Next time I bring it in, I'll show the service tech.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You could take a wire brush to it, gently, then maybe spot-prime just that area.
  • I'm going to let the service dept handle it, but thanks for the suggestion.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool, keep us posted on what they do?
  • fadskierfadskier Posts: 1
    My wife ran out of gas in her 2007 B9 Tribeca. I put a few gallons in it to get it to a gas station, but it will not start. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Any ideas?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The fuel pump is cooled by the fuel itself. If it ran dry and was left on for too long, it could have overheated and failed.

    That's the first place to look.

    When you turn the key to the on position, do you hear the fuel pump priming the pressure? It should sound like a "whirrrr".
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could also be on a hill so the amount of fuel isn't reaching the fuel pump.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good point. The fuel can slosh around. Make sure you have at least 3 gallons or so in the tank. The more the better.

    Listen for the whirrrrr when you turn the key before you try to crank it, just to be sure the fuel pump is still working.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I've run my tanks dry a lot on my subies, never overheated the pump.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • cadillaccadillac Posts: 7
    26,000 miles - Driving to work last Thursday morning, the check engine light started flashing on the freeway. I pulled off the free way with little power and the SUB stalled and then would not start. It had to be towed to the dealer where after further investigation, they said, "You have a major engine problem that we are not able to tell until we pull everything apart. The engine is knocking as if a Rod bearing is out, which in my years here I have never seen in this engine." They kindly arranged for a loaner car while they looked into it further. He further mentioned that only in times where the car was involved in a big accident did they need to repair the engine like this.

    Today - the call from the dealer is Subaru is ordering a new short block. To which I responded, "do we know what caused this?" Dealer - "We don't because Subaru wants us to ship the short block to them to inspect themselves and they don't want us breaking it down." I should be up and running on Friday this week or Monday of next week.

    Questions - Would anyone else be concerned about them replacing the short block and not the entire engine? Has anyone else heard of anything similar to this? If this is an anomaly - should I buy lotto tickets? Would you request SOA to warranty the 3/4 new engine beyond the 5 months 10k miles I have left on my warranty? Is this a reasonable resolution to the problem?

    Nick :sick:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Any work they do should be under warranty for 12 more months.

    I agree this is rare. The H6 is very robust, in fact this is the first catastrophic failure of this type I've heard of on a Tribeca.

    FWIW, as long as they cover it under warranty, I'm happy to see that Subaru is actually taking the engine back for analysis, to determine a cause.
  • cadillaccadillac Posts: 7
    UPDATE -
    I have yet to get my Tribeca back. However, the good news is they know what caused the problem. It appears one of the valve springs broke. This wreaked havoc on the engine causing it to misfire and shut down in essence.

    They are still replacing the short block and as it turns out and a valve. Not sure if I heard them correctly, but they may have said the heads as well? Either way, because the car is still under the 5yr 60k miles powertrain, if anything goes wrong in the next two years, I would be covered. I have to figure this is good luck (bad luck) depending on how you look at it.

    I will say the dealership has been great to deal with. I have not had to call them once for an update. They beat me to the punch. Not the best to be without my car for almost two weeks, but it could be much worse if the dealership hadn't been as good as they have been so far. :confuse:
  • cadillaccadillac Posts: 7
    UPDATE to the UPDATE
    Going on almost three weeks. The dealership had to order valve pucks for the adjusting of the valves. They were measuring them today, hopeful the car will be ready on Wednesday. :sick:
  • cadillaccadillac Posts: 7
    Back and running. Like getting a new car that is dirty in the cabin. All is well. Drives like it did when it was new.
    :)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Excellent, remember to break it in again.

    -mike
  • cadillaccadillac Posts: 7
    I began to notice a knocking noise coming from the engine. I thought this might be a knocking problem due to the engine not being warm, but it didn't matter how warm or cold the car was, the knocking was very pronounced. The engine seemed to be functioning fine, but I returned the car to the dealership one week after getting it back.

    In arriving at the dealer at 530pm on the way home from work, the service writer immediately said this was not normal and is likely to be the valves not being adjusted properly. He suggested I could drive it home with no issue and that I ought to return it in the morning when they could fit it into the schedule.

    The dealership provided another loaner car after fearing another valve spring may have broken on another valve. When I picked up the loaner car later in the day, the service writer and I were removing car seats from the car and he noticed (Whole engine was out of the car) a bolt appeared to have broken off. A bolt that holds the cam into place. He responded "good, looks like this is our fault and nothing with the engine. Explains why the mechanic didn't come speak to me before he left for the day." He torqued the bolt too tight causing it to break and rattle around within the engine.

    Tribeca is back, seems fine. Keep your fingers crossed. My dad had a good saying he learned in the military - First time - bad luck, 2nd time Coincidence, 3rd time definitely enemy advancement :D ...Let's hope there is not a third engine problem.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hope so! :shades:
  • chuck68chuck68 Posts: 2
    I have a B9 with around 40,000 miles. The engine light came on one morning and it shut down. The Subaru dealer did a compression test and found that one of the cylinders stopped working. They said they had never seen anything like it and keep it for two weeks. Luckily, it is still under the powertrain warranty. They replaced valves, several gaskets, O rings and spark plugs. It runs, but now it knocks and backfires. Is this a lemon or what? I can't believe this. I have a call into the dealer again about this. Has anyone had or heard of another B9 with this problem?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like when they put the engine back together they may have messed up the timing chain (may be off by a tooth or 2) and that is probably what is causing the knocking and backfiring.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    40k miles is way too late for a lemon law claim, that's usually for the first year only or 12k miles.
This discussion has been closed.