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Subaru B9 Electrical/Lighting Problems

13

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Don't blame Subaru, like I said my Nissan Armada is the same way. What did the manual say for replacement?

    I think it's not a Subaru only problem. I guess to get things compacted into such small spaces, they have to pack it in there.

    -mike
  • megreyhairmegreyhair Posts: 154
    Hmm... You don't need to bring it in... It alittle hard since u can't really see it but its doable.
    I changed my bulbs to Silver Stars... Nice and bright and white!!!! Do the passenger side first... There are more room. The bulb opening is covered by a round rubber cover.. So look for that.. There are 3 different ones on the light assembly, 1 for the high beam, 1 for low and 1 for the signal. So look for the correct one and pop out the cover. Unplug the wire harness. There is a philips screw that holds the bulb clip. Unscrew that and release the clip/spring/latch, whatever u want to call it.
    Installation is the reverse. U might want a pair of gloves, when doing the bulb so u don't get oil/grease on it. It could cause the bulb to smoke and blows up.

    The driver side is more painful since the batt is in the way. U might want to loosen that out first to give u more room.
  • nhstevenhsteve Posts: 78
    I had my wife take it to the shop. I had the cover that you mentioned off, on both side. Visibility into the bulb chamber to release the clip is very difficult. I was concerned that I would get it out but not be able to replace it.

    So I had the dealer replace the bulb and wiper blades. Now, 1 week later, the other bulb blew... figures.
  • megreyhairmegreyhair Posts: 154
    Doh.....

    I bet the mechanic used his hands or dirty gloves and touched the bulb....
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    does anyone have an issue with the driver window not going back up? I have a very very sporadic case where the window will not go up until I pull up on the switch 4 or 5 times and finally it will work. after that it works flawlessly.

    then a few weeks later it will do it again...
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,567
    Probably way off base, but does this happen after you use the auto-down feature? I had that problem with my '96 Outback. I never had any problems putting it up unless I allowed the auto-down to fully retract it. If I held it in the manual mode, I could put the window all the way down with no problems on the return. It gradually became worse, to the point that if I accidentally had it in auto-down mode, I would panic and immediately pull up on the switch! :blush:
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    Yes I always use auto down on the drivers window. I will try and see if I use Manual down if it does it. Did you ever get it fixed? and if so what part?

    thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Should probably be a TSB on it, my guess is they use Nissan switches, and I have the same problem in my Armada, they had a TSB on it for my 04. But Subaru uses Nissan switches so it makes sense.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,567
    No, I never fixed it. I purchased the car used in 2000 and once I had figured out how to prevent it, it was no longer an issue for me.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • marilynwmarilynw Posts: 24
    I had the same problem about 6 months ago. It was a bad switch. Subaru replaced the switch.
  • I have a 2006 Tribeca, purchased in June 2005. Occasionally the radio, seat heaters, and dash over radio do not come on with ignition. At the same time there is a swishing/clicking sound in the dash. After about 3-5 minutes driving, the radio and all suddenly come on.

    Has anyone else had this experience? :)

    Subaru replaced my clock assembly, after the clock repeatedly lost hours. The clock now works, but this other mysterious thing still happens.
  • My B9 has been an electrical nightmare. The headlights blow every 3 months - like clockwork. Now, the interior lights blow at the same time as my headlights. Also, the rear taillights are staring to blow as well. The door locks have failed, The wiring harness for the power seats have been replaced twice, the seat control switches have failed 3 times and the light for the shifter has failed as well. I suspect a faulty regulator or alternator but the dealer cannot find the problem and will not do anything about it. Personally, with all the other issues I have experienced, such as the sway bar bushings failing every 30,000 miles, the struts have been replaced, control arm bushings and the engine mount ripped off the firewall, I feel my Tribeca is a LEMON!!! In the shop almost 50 days to get these things fixed. It is a piece of junk! My last 3 Subarus were trouble free. This ine is a nightmare!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Maybe it's a bad ground. That's the type of thing I would suspect.

    Do a Google search for "Single Point Ground Subaru". A while back, a few years ago, a few people did these and while it helped a few it harmed noone, so you may have nothing to lose.
  • yoyodkyoyodk Posts: 28
    The other night I noticed that the driver's side puddle lights on my 2006 Tribeca are so dim, that I could not tell that they were on until I got down on my hands and knees and looked. The passenger side puddle lights are fine. Any one have similar issues or know what could possibly be the problem? I would hate to have to spend hundreds of dollars for a repair that is not really a necessity.... :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Your wife wears heels, so she needs brighter lights.

    Just kidding.

    Is the lens dirty, perhaps? They ought to be the same wattage.
  • yoyodkyoyodk Posts: 28
    That was my first suspicion, but I checked the lenses, cleaned them, and I can clearly see the LED's. They are just barely illuminated on the driver's side.
  • I actually had one burn out and just ordered the replacement LED assembly.

    maybe they are burning out? I didnt think LEDs went DIM. I thought they either worked or not but ... who knows

    anyway do a google search for "Puddle Light Install ScoobyMods" and you will find a link to the install sheet for the Puddle lights. you can trace out the connector in the front wheel well and see if it is loose. when you open the driver door only is the interior light any dimmer then if you open the passenger side door only?
  • yoyodkyoyodk Posts: 28
    I think you are correct on the LEDs. I think the current to the lights has decreased somehow. I'll check out your suggestion and this will be something that can I tinker with this weekend...

    I hadn't noticed any difference with the interior lighting when opening the driver's side doors vs. the passenger side doors, but I wasn't really looking for a diffierence. I'll try this tonight and see. This may help decipher whether this is a localized problem or something bigger...
  • rose19rose19 Posts: 1
    I'm wondering if anyone has had keyless entry problems with their Tribeca's.

    I've a '06 Tribeca which was, for the most part, okay until I moved to this new apartment. Ever since I moved there and parked in my assigned carport, either I can't seem to lock the car using the keyless remote or if after moving around and clicking it several times, I'm able to lock it - then I can't open it the next time. This happens everyday - I've experienced this recently only in 3 other different places in malls parking but mostly it happens in my apartments carport. I've taken it to dealers 4 times (2 different dealers) and no one has been able to fix it - they don't seem to have a clue. They have replaced the battery and done / checked several things but found nothing wrong.

    Can anyone help? It's a big annoyance!

    Thank you in advance..
  • kmartinkmartin Posts: 427
    Unsure if this is related or not...my sister-in-law had a similarly weird problem with an Outback a few years ago. When she was at work, her car's alarm would randomly go on and off for no apparent reason. Never happened anywhere else. After several trips to the dealer, they decided there was some kind of radio interference near her work place, but they never did isolate it. Sorry I can't give you more help.

    -Karen in AZ-
  • trek7ktrek7k Posts: 2
    Yep, I have an '06 Tribeca and just started having problems with the remote - but only in my own driveway. Works fine everywhere else but I'm guessing there's some sort of interference in front of my house. We have municipal wi-fi at the house and a cell tower nearby - those are two potential culprits I suppose. Anyone else want to weigh in with their theories about Tribeca remote "dead zones"?
  • kuohkuoh Posts: 15
    If you're sure that it's not the batteries or the alarm itself, it could be someone using a
    jammer. I wouldn't think it likely, but one never knows.

    KuoH
  • trek7ktrek7k Posts: 2
    Yeah, obviously the battery was the first thing I checked and like I said, the remote continues to work away from my house. I can't believe there is such a thing as a car remote jammer - who would have a need for such a thing (other than crooks)? The ironic thing is that if someone had one because they didn't like the beep they hear whenever I lock/unlock, now they hear my car alarm go off for 5 seconds every time I have to use the key!

    I checked the manual and couldn't find any info on the specific remote frequency but was able to look up the FCC ID printed on the remote and found this:

    Tohoku Alps Co Ltd
    Alps Car Electronics Division
    Nakazato, Furukawa
    Frequency range: 433.92-433.92 MHz

    Looks like cell phones operate in the 800 MHz range so that's not it. What operates around the 433.92 radio range? From jneuhaus.com:

    420 - 450 MHz
    # Government radiolocation limited to the military services [2.106 footnote G2]
    # Amateur (70 centimeter band) (secondary) [Part 97]
    # Radiolocation [Part 90 Subpart F]
    # RF ID tags to identify the contents of commercial shipping containers, 433.5 - 434.5 MHz only [15.240]

    I don't live near a military base so the first one is out; could be an amateur radio operator in my neighborhood (the problem with my remote just started recently). I'm not sure what Radiolocation is but from what I can tell it's probably used for airports while the RF ID line seems to be talking about shipping containers only (I'm not near a port). RF ID is becoming much more mainstream though so I wouldn't be surprised if a place like WalMart was using it in the stores (no WalMart nearby either).

    I'll add one more piece to the puzzle for anyone else trying to figure out the mystery. My house is located directly across the street from a metro/rail station. I guess the next test is to drive to another station and see if my remote is similarly disabled...
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 685
    Add garage door openers to that list. Newer models have rolling codes; I wonder if they interrogate the remotes?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,567
    There are so many wireless signals skittering about these days, there could be any number of things disrupting the signal. All it takes is one signal at the same frequency to cause a problem. If you notice the FCC statement imprinted on the back of those wireless controllers, they say something like "this device complies with the FCC and causes no interference but will accept all incoming interference."
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • I just bought a used '06 Tribeca and one of the lights has a similar problem. Where did you order your replacement LED assembly? Did you order an entire system or were you able to purchase only one light?
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    check my original post to search for the part number. I ended up using a coupon and getting from my local dealer. Light assembly only, NOT the whole kit. easy plug and play replacement.
  • numbsienumbsie Posts: 1
    Can anyone out there tell me how to remove and replace the passenger side fog light?
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Posts: 648
    Can anyone out there tell me how to remove and replace the passenger side fog light?

    -------------------------------------------

    you have to crawl under the car, pull the plastic pins from the plastic spash guard from the front of the front wheel all the way around the front to at least half way to the middle. pull down the splash guard. then you can reach in and find the fog light back housing. twist the cover off and you can get to the light bulb area. its tough to see so you have to go on feel and remove the clip holding the bulb (easy part). swing out the clip remove bulb and unplug wires from bulb.

    now the HARD part. get the new bulb in with the tab UP I think so it fits into the slot. much easier I would think if the car is on a lift and you can look directly into the fog light rear housing. so you have do this by FEEL if you dont have it on a lift. then flip the metal clip back over and hook it on the TINY hook to latch the bulb in. re attach wires and screw cover back on fog light housing rear.

    reassemble the splash guard make sure to push the tabs UNDER the lip and snap in the pins. the first time you do this it sucks. the second time it sucks less.. but its never fun. takes me about 2 hrs to do it now because of the 1.5 hrs of getting the bulb in there right and getting the clip engaged all without touching the bulb.
  • kgusbkgusb Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your dim puddle light? I now have the same issue on my 2006 Tribeca under the drivers door. Thanks. :mad:
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