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FWD Chrysler 81-95 Performance Tips

Looking for performance tips for 1981-1995 chrysler fwd cars. 2.2-2.5l turbo and 3.0l v6
for street sleeper. Guess you just got beat by a K car. http://www.girardmediagroup.com/article3
Fear the power of the K. All tips and replies welcome

Comments

  • rick90rick90 Posts: 1
    I called the auto store to get a price on a computer and they told me they have 4 different models and i got to get the model type off the old one but that one was missing when i got the car so i was wondering if any body knows a way I can find out which one I need
  • I have a 88 Dodge Daytona which has 4 toggle switches & 1 push button switch located in the center of the dash. 1 toggle switch opens/closes the lights. I have yet to figure out the other 4. This may or may not be original equipment. My father modified this car a couple of years ago. He converted it to rear wheel drive and put in a 360 ci V8. He was killed in an auto accident last December. This car, along with another he built, is going into an auction next month and I'm trying to get everything figured out. I'd appreciate it if anyone could possibly clue me in about the switches. Thankyou.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sorry to hear about your father :(

    If you have some pics of the switches, maybe we can help yah figure it out. I'd love to see pics of the conversion too.

    -mike
  • mikevegas06mikevegas06 Posts: 272
    The following info gathered from consumerguide.com, edmunds.com, and product brochures:

    Similar in appearance and mechanical details to the Mitsubishi Eclipse and the Eagle Talon, Plymouth's sporty front-drive coupe debuted in January 1989. Base-model Lasers carried a 1.8-liter 4-cylinder engine, whereas a 135-horsepower, 2.0-liter twin-cam four (4G37) was optional under Laser RS hoods. The top-flight RS Turbo used a turbocharged 2.0-liter (4G63) rated at 190 horsepower. A 5-speed manual transmission was standard; 4-speed automatic optional, except with the turbocharged engine, which was manual-shift only. Exterior color choices for 1990 were Raspberry, Bright Blue, Bright White, Flash Red, Black, and Warm Silver (champaign). Interior color choices were Dark Quartz and Buckskin
  • mikevegas06mikevegas06 Posts: 272
    The following info gathered from consumerguide.com, edmunds.com, and product brochures:

    Antilock brakes joined the option list this year, and the Laser's turbocharged engine could now be ordered with an automatic transmission instead of manual shift. This year too, the Laser RS came only with the midlevel engine: 2.0-liter rated at 135 horsepower. Lastly, a map pocket was added to the driver door when power windows were ordered. Exterior color choices were Medium Quartz, Light Spectrum Blue, Electric Blue, Bright White, Flash Red, Black, Warm Silver (champaign), and Turquoise. Interior color choices were Dark Quartz and Buckskin
  • mikevegas06mikevegas06 Posts: 272
    The following info gathered from consumerguide.com, edmunds.com, and product brochures:

    Lasers earned some cosmetic changes for 1992, and a new all-wheel-drive (AWD) model with independent rear suspension joined the lineup. Plymouth's RS Turbo AWD came only with manual shift. Front and rear ends got a fresh look, with exposed aerodynamic headlamps replacing the previous hidden units, body colored side-view mirrors, body colored molding, power dome hood, and optional fog lights. There were a couple of visual highlights exclusive to the turbo cars: (1) a black painted roof that gave the elusion of a targa top (2) the side sills and bottoms of the front/rear fascias were painted metallic gray. On the RS and turbo models, the manual transmission was revised to deliver better shifting. Maximum horsepower marginally increased by 5 for a total of 195 on the AWD car. Along with two hues of gray, Crimson Red could be had as an interior color, while Buckskin (tan) was no longer available. The idiot lights were subtly re-arranged in the gauge cluster; most notably, an ABS indicator and two transmission shift pattern lights (one for “power” mode, one for “economy” mode were added). A rear spoiler became standard beginning in February of this year’s production run for the RS and turbo cars. Exterior color choices were Medium Quartz, Light Spectrum Blue, Electric Blue, Bright White, Medium Red, Black, Radiant Red, and Turquoise. Interior color choices were Dark Agate, Medium Quartz, and Crimson Red
  • mikevegas06mikevegas06 Posts: 272
    The following info gathered from consumerguide.com, edmunds.com, and product brochures:

    All-wheel-drive Lasers could be ordered with an automatic transmission this year. With automatic, the horsepower rating of turbo models dropped to 180 (down from 195) and torque was reduced to 195 (down from 203). The manual transmission leather gearshift was made more ergonomic for the RS and turbo trims, while these models also could also be had with new seven spoke alloys in place of the lace wheel pattern. All Lasers except the base model could be equipped with antilock braking. Contrasting script “Laser” exterior decals were added to the bottom of the driver/passenger doors. The Décor package debuted; it included gold colored badges, accent stripes and alloy wheels. Exterior color choices were Medium Quartz, Deep Green Pearl, Electric Blue, Bright White, Medium Red, Black, Radiant Red, and Turquoise. Interior color choices were Dark Agate, Medium Quartz, and Crimson Red
  • mikevegas06mikevegas06 Posts: 272
    The following info gathered from consumerguide.com, edmunds.com, and product brochures:

    For its final season, Laser got only detail changes. The optional security system was improved. A mobile cell phone (mounted in the car) was made available. Exterior color choices were Medium Quartz, Deep Green Pearl, Electric Blue, Bright White, Medium Red, Black, Radiant Red, Silver, and Turquoise. Interior color choices were Dark Agate, Medium Quartz, and Crimson Red
  • Thanks, I'll have to get back later with a picture of those switches. Not sure how to upload pictures here through this forum. But I do have pictures of all three vehicles on My CarSpace , and I would definately say they're worth a look. With the exception of a slightly raised spoiler, the Daytona looks very much the same as the factory version at a glance. I should probably take some pictures of the engine compartment too. He took it to a Mopar show in Kokomo, IN and placed first in his class. He was in his seventies and really enjoyed watching all the young bucks scratchin their heads over it. Lyle
  • I finally got a picture of those switches. I have my doubts that they're original equipment. The toggle on the far left lifts the lights. The one on the right is rigged up to the carburator to lock out the 4 barrel as a fuel saving option. I still have yet to find any function for the 3 in the middle.
    image
  • Anybody know why it would take almost a 1/2 hr of driving before getting heat in the car?
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    Check two things; your thermostat and the radiator fans.

    On some cars, when you use the defroster setting, it automatically turns on the A/C compressor. That is due to the fact that dry warm air clears a windshield faster than warm moist air. If the A/C compressor comes on, most cars these days automatically turn on the radiator fans in order to keep the compressor from being overpressurized on the high side. However, if the fan is on, it could keep your car from warming up quickly.

    Also, your thermostat could be the wrong one, coming open too soon, or be stuck in the open position. If it is open and coolant is flowing all the time, it will take a LOT longer for the heater to put out any heat. Most manufacturers call for a 185, 190 or 195 degree thermostat. A good parts store can tell you what your car should have.

    BTW, do NOT buy a Robert Shaw thermostat. Go with an OEM or a Stant thermostat.
  • my 1989 chrysler le baron turbo has poor acceleration any fixes
  • pogenpogen Posts: 1
    no power to coil on my chrysler lebaron 2,5 88 mod help
  • Your cooling fans are turned on and off automatically via a temp sensor and/or relay swtch. You can locate this sensor either near the intake or sometimes on the radiator itself (usually near bottom). If you "jumper" the pins your cooling fans should kick on (key in access. on position). If they do you prob have a bad sensor. If they don't you may have either bad wiring or a bad relay switch (fuse block under hood driver's side - 1st relay in upper right corner).
  • Hello. I am a noob around these parts, and to my newly acquired 1988 Lebaron Convertible. It is a 4 cyl. 5 spd. Manual. It has just over 111,000 miles on it. My problem is that when it's cold out, (like now) if the car is not warmed up, (which I have been told not to do) when shifting gears, it revs up really high! It doesn't matter what gear I am in, as soon as I engage the clutch & pull it out of gear into the neutral position, or just normal shifting, the engine revs so high that it is starting to freak me & the wife out. And since it revs so high, once the stick shift is set into the next gear, the car "lightly" lurches forward. But then the RPM's go down to normal levels until the next shift, then up it goes again. Now, if I let the car warm up like 10 to 15 minutes, (which I have been told is hard on the engine) it is fine. Any ideas on this one? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
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