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Chrysler Sebring Brake Problems



  • Hi ,sorry to ear you too have problems .
    Sorry to say It never got fixed I took it to the dealer six times already and they keep on telling me that this is normal ,the bad thing I live in Laredo and there is only one authorize dealer from chrysler .
    I already talked directly to Chrysler but still nothing had been done for any of the two problems I have with my car. This is the worst car ever!!! I am just waiting to have a chance to change it for another one. Hope to ear from you with good news.
  • hey. i have a 2004 chrysler sebring sedan, i noticed yesterday this humming noise that appears to be coming from the front end, also when i break, and just about to stop, the car sorda jerks or kicks.. any ideas what it could be? the tires are pretty new, had them since last april
  • Hi , I do not own this sebring 07 anymore, but they never figure it out what is this humming noise and the jerks -or- push that it made when coming to a stop.
    Got tired of taking it to often to the dealer. One time the told me that Chrysler knew about this noise and they were trying to find out what was it., that as soon they had any news they will let me know.....and still no news.
    This was the worst car I ever had, it's very pretty but too much problems.
    Hope you can find out what's wrong and wish you good luck
  • spike14spike14 Posts: 1
    I am interested in what the outcome with this problem was.Thanks
  • primrosesmprimrosesm Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Sebring hardtop convertible. A very nice car when it runs correctly. Last month I drove to California. When going uphill with the cruise control on the car would just keep accelerating. Tapping on the brake should have turned off the cruise control but it was like hitting a brick wall with my foot. I had to turn it off manually. I just picked the car up this evening after having it in the shop for 2 weeks and it now has other problems. When stopped at a light the ESP light and the electronic throttle control light came on and flashed. The car began running very jerly and sort of jumped forward. In addition I have had it in 4 times now for a very low groaning noise when making a left turn. Anyone have these problems? How did they get corrected??
  • I have a 2001 LXI. I have new rotors and pads all around. When I first get into my car and take off the front brakes make a loud clicking noise. It goes away after driven a few blocks and will not do it again until I park it, then get back in it and go. Any suggestions ?
  • 1huck1huck Posts: 1
    I just found your message. I bought an new 2007 sebring Touring. Do you still have a problem? It took me a while for them to fix it . They had to put a new break booster in the car At first they said they could not find anything wrong with the car, but I refused to pick it up until they fixed it. I told them this is a safety issue. A car pulled in front of me on the interstate and when I hit the breaks the car kept going. I had to SLAM the brakes to unset the cruise control. I called the dealer right away and took the car in that afternoon. I could make it do it if I had the cruise on going up hill. Then I would I made the service manager take the car home then he found the problem. New break cylinder and booster. Has not done it since. I also had the loss of power and they told me maybe water was in the gas. They told me how to reset it and it worked. The groaning noise drove me nuts. It happened to me but when I would take it in I could not make it do it. Finally they heard it. They replaced the steering rack and they said there was metal pieces in the powersteering pump so they replaced it. The car still made the noise but was better. The dealer went out of business so another dealer looked at it and said the problem was the first dealer did not tighten the bolts on the replacement parts they put in the frontend.

    Needless to say I was very disappointed as They would test the car and say there was nothing wrong with it until I finally could duplicate it with the mechanic in the car. It is funny how before they could find "nothing wrong" with the car until THEY heard the noise, all of a sudden it needs major front end steering work.

    The car has been fine for the last year and the warranty is up.

    Chuck Guest
  • dylan2009dylan2009 Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Seabring that all of a sudden is having what I believe are break problems. It is such a hard noise to explain. However, it only happens when I am in consistent stop and go traffic on the high way. If I use my breaks going 65 mph it makes no noise at all. However, if I'm going 20-30mph it makes this noise (knocking, I cannot really explain). The car has been to the dealership 4 times. They've replaced the Swaybar and breaks and they cannot figure it out. It does not make this noise all the time. I dont know what to do. Has anyone ever experienced this before.
  • pbmiller1pbmiller1 Posts: 2
    96 Sebring Conv - brakes get hot after about 5 mins in stop n go during hot weather. Brakes go out to the floor and car pulls sharply to right. I can smell a burning smell and hear a loud air flow when I press the pedal. Once the car cools and the outside temperature goes down I have brakes again but still hear the loud whish of air everytime I press the brakes. I have no fluid loss, in fact it looks a little over-full to me. I'm not sure if I should be hearing this air sound when I press the brakes and am worried about them getting hot and going out in stop n go summer traffic. Any ideas what could be causing this problem?
  • glyngglyng Posts: 1
    But now, my brake light is dinging off and on all the time. Mostly when I turn right. Any clue why? answer is low brake fluid.. just add some dot 4
  • pbmiller1pbmiller1 Posts: 2
    wondering if anyone can tell me how to tell if this is caliper or vacuum booster?
  • I had these checked out at numerous Chrysleer Service DEalerships they all say the brake shoes are good but they never address the Rorors, The Brakes are Horrible right now I never had any service on the brakes after 6 years and 70,000 miles yet the technicians say my brakes are fine only after looking at the pads, they never test driven the car nor have they every looked at the fluid level. The Service technicians are WORST then the Chrysler Cars themselves. Never again Will I by a Chrysler Product nor any car thats under their umbrella such as Dodge, etc.
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    Here is the checklist that worked for me.

    1) After unsuccessfully wasting time, money and effort trying different aftermarket parts combinations, I bought a new set of front brake rotors and brake pads from the Chrysler dealership. Each brake rotor (MOPAR) box indicated they were “Made in U.S.A.” Removed the factory protective paint from the rotors brake contact area. Cleaned the rotors and pads to near surgical-like condition.
    2) Ensured that both hub bearings were in good - if not - in excellent conditions.
    3) I used a brake rotor runout gauge to properly install each brake rotor in relation to the hub bearing; I took the time to ensure that both front rotors were as close as possible to perfect zero runout.
    4) I had installed 2 rebuilt front calipers before from a reputable brake caliper rebuilder; but, there was something suspicious about the left one. This time, I was very lucky that I found and purchased 2 front brake calipers that seemed to be brand new rather than rebuilt ones.
    5) Replaced the 2 front brake hydraulic lines with OEM ones, even though the ones in my car appeared to be perfectly fine (they only had 60k miles of use each). I noticed that the new brake lines had an improved design.
    6) Before the final assembly, I ensured that each brake pad was not too tight with respect to the anti-rattle springs at the caliper mounting rail and applied a very light coat of silicone based brake lubricant to the sliding end for each brake pad.
    7) Caliper pins lubrication: I used a light film of silicone based caliper pin lubricant and ensured that each pin would slide in and out without lots of effort while displacing any trapped air. The upper slide pin bolt is the one with the rubber anti-vibration bushing. I found different recommendations on different websites; however, this is how it is working fine in my Sebring.
    8) Doubled-checked the torque for every anchor and caliper slide pin bolt. Ensured that both calipers would slide freely.
    9) I adjusted the rear brakes according to factory specs; you need to ensure that the rear brake system is doing its part to stop the vehicle.
    10) Bled the brake system. Reinstalled the tires using the correct procedure and torque specification. With the vehicle tires secured, started the engine and pressed the brake pedal 7 – 8 times to seat the brake pads against the rotors and to verify proper pedal pressure before attempting to move the vehicle.
    11) Inspect and refill the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir as needed.

    Finally and very important, the new brakes break-in procedure. You must identify a road where you could safely and gradually reduce speed from about 40 - 30 miles x hr to about 10 - 15 miles x hr without coming to a complete stop. I selected a local highway at night where it was safe and there was almost no traffic. I repeated the previous steps several times; I probably drove for at least 30 minutes allowing time between each slow down for the brake system to cool down a little. Before I was using the 30 - 30 procedure, meaning 30 miles x hr down to approx. 10, rest 10 secs, then repeat. While this could be excellent for other cars, I decided to allow a little more than 10 seconds for the Sebring front brakes to cool.

    When possible avoid panic stops or abusing the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles.

    Please, note that I may have skipped steps and information that I assume the reader is familiar with. The information shared here should not be used in place of the factory recommended procedure. Brake system diagnostic and repairs should only be performed by Certified Technicians.
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    New brakes break-in procedure clarification.

    There are countless technical writings and brake parts manufacturer websites devoted to new brakes break-in procedures and related information; you must follow the factory recommended procedure from your specific brake parts manufacturer.

    As a general rule, after the vehicle's speed is reduced to about 40 - 30 mph, the brakes are gradually applied to slow down to about 10 mph without coming to a complete stop, resume normal speed and continue to drive for some distance to allow the brake system to cool down a little then the process is repeated.

    After you have done this several times as recommended by the brake parts maker, you should resume normal speed and continue to drive for about 15 - 20 mins for the brake system to cool down as much as possible before coming to a complete stop and/or eventually parking the vehicle.

    You will need to identify a secure place where you could do this process without placing yourself or others at risk.
  • I,

    I Bought a Sebring 2007 crd limited, and have the same problem. No solution yet, the Dealer says its normal...but it isnt.

    Any solution?

    Best Regards,

  • well 3 years & 32,000 miles later, 5 sets of rotors, 8 sets of pads Chrysler OEM branded, Wagner, Bendix, and Centrex brands Chrysler made good on an engineer visit, he replaced pads & rotors back OEM, (do not use value line) and do not turn OEM rotors ever - this increases heat, do not let technician at dealer or tire store use impact wrench - use hand wrench and torque wrench, as weird as it seems that "worked" - clearly defined in JS (Sebring family including Dodge Avenger) factory service manuals, this will cause rotor to warp, heat will build up and continue, cutting rotors (also called turning) thins out metal and thickness also causing heat build up enough to warp - now having checked at factory expense every 3 months / 3,000 miles whichever comes first and so far they are holding up - keep fingers crossed
  • I,

    Thanks for your feedback...wish me luck :)

    Regards from Portugal

  • Hi,

    I have one new set of rotors and one sets of pads (japanese brand)....and everything ok...but just drive 250 miles...

  • my brake issues were pretty much limited to accelerated wear, and once pads were worn, and heat build up warped the rotors there would be a vibration in steer column that could be felt in steer wheel when braking slowly and at around the 40 mph mark, the heat build up got so bad at one point on rotor set #3 the rotor surface had cracked, (looked like shattered safety glass) and had a bluish purple tinge color in center hub another sign of excessive heat present, I still like the Sebring runs good, stopping has always been my challange and of course poor dealer support (everywhere)

    thanks for everones help, I hope this can return the favor and ease your frustration to one of you, find a dealer you can trust, use new Mopar, not their discount Value Line brand the dealers sell you for their service coupons, make sure they dont use an impact on wheel lug nuts when mounting, and do not turn rotors ever, if grooved to point of maximum just replace them.

    If dealer gives you a hard time tell them to look it up in the JS family model service manaul 2007 - 2010 Chrysler Sebring / Dodge Avenger and CALL Factories toll free 800 number and complain, if in California have them start paper work on "lemon law" you will be called back and that's a promise
  • donseibdonseib Posts: 1
    I am going through the exact same problem. I already changed the pads, the rotors, the calipers, the parking brake shoes. Yesterday a friend told me that the brake line is probably pinched. Makes sense, right? Not sure if that is a big deal to do. Well, doing anything laying in my driveway isn't a walk in the park.
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