Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chrysler Sebring Climate Control Problems

1356

Comments

  • I have an 01 sebring sedan with the same problem, no heat but plenty of A/C. Also the light in the middle of the temperature console comes on for a while and then goes out. Would this be a temperature sensor problem, because i can't go another winter without heat.
  • kls3kls3 Posts: 4
    I have a '01 Sebring and live in Minnesota. I only get heat when I am using the gas pedal. If I am in neutral I can get heat if I push on the accelerator, if not it blows cold air. If I am in gear and using the brake pedal I get cold air. Any ideas why the accelerator and heater are connected?
  • OK here goes( for what it's worth) I have the same problem with my 2000 Sebring Convertible. Its got a Mitsu V6 with 98,000 miles. Except for the heat problem it is a great car. I had it to the dealer three times and they FINALLY fixed it. All they would say is that it was the coolant level, but they didn't replace any parts. It worked fine for the entire year. NOW two weeks ago I get the car serviced and have the coolant flushed and changed. Guess what? The EXACT problem starts all over. So after reading about 75 similiar posts and all possible solutions I tried something that seems to have fixed it. Now I'm not saying its going to fix everbody but it fixed mine. (In fact the heat is hotter then I've ever felt it). First and foremost I am NOT TELLING YOU TO DO THIS, I'm only telling a story of what I did to my car- NOTHING MORE. SO don't try this if you're not experienced.
    FIrst I let the car sit all night so the engine was completely cooled. Then I opened the silver radiator cap, NOT the plastic one on the overflow tank mounted on the fender.
    Next I started the engine and SLOWLY added WATER (not Anit-freeze) into the radiator. As I did this green FOAM began to rise up the radiator filler neck.At this point I gently squeezed the black radiator hose (large one connected to the radiator) and caused more foam to rise out of the system. I wiped the foam away, added more water and kept repeating this technique. When it became less foamy I reved the engine slightly and a blast of water and anti-freeze blew out (BE CAREFUL and don't rev the engine like its the Indy 500) Make sure the heater control is on RED on the dashboard. I kept adding water (slowly)until there was no more foam, replaced the metal radiator cap and have not had the problem since.
    Simply stated the foam displaces the water and is causing the heater core to get air bound. That could be why when you race the engine you get heat- it basically BLOWS the foam through the radiator core. Good luck. Again I'm not saying it will cure everybodys problem but it solved mine. Thanks for reading.
  • I am experiencing the exact same thing now in my 2002 Sebring. I am getting hot air when I am pressing on my gas accelerator. As soon as I coast or stopped at a red light, I am getting cold air. I am looking for advice on what I shuld do next. I am thinking about doing what avatar144 recommended on his post.
  • kls3kls3 Posts: 4
    We tried the avatar144 solution. There was not foam in the system but we did get some air bubbles out. Unfortunately it didn't fix our problem but it was worth a shot. We are still working on solving the problem.
  • I too have the same problem, my 1996 Sebring Convertible heater blower heats up when I step on the gas or accelerator while in neutral. Reading through the many logs about this issue what about the Blower Motor Resistor - I think this is the same thing as the Fan switch resistor that is mentioned in another posting. The fan switch is accessed through (under?) the glove compartment.

    Has anyone replaced that part and had success? I already had a mechanic check under the hood - he said it was something "in the dash". He suggested a solenoid (sp?) for the vents (sounds like a blower motor resistor to me!) and I would have to bring it to a dealer....we know what that means $$$$. :confuse:

    Thanks!
  • caf50caf50 Posts: 2
    Re: blower motor noise / vibration at speed 3 & 4. Same issue on a 2006 Sebring, remove insulation under passenger side dash. Remove 3 screws that hold up the blower motor & lower motor. Motor had several cherry seeds stuck in the fins, causing big vibration in dash at higher fan speeds. Remove seeds & reassemble; all was fine. The AC is separate issue.
  • caf50caf50 Posts: 2
    2006 Sebring Convertible - rear defroster terminal came off window grid, but was able to build up solder on terminal then reapply to window using a standard solder gun.
  • kls3kls3 Posts: 4
    I finally got heat consistently but it cost me $1100. The dealership tore out my dash and replaced my heater core. They said that someone had put something in my radiator to stop a leak and it got into the core and plugged it. We never put anything in it so........................ whatever, I'm finally warm.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Wow, it looks like someone took a cheap way out to fix a radiator leak and ended up costing you a lot more because of it. A new radiator wouldn't be anywhere near $1,100.

    Were you the original owner in '01?
  • kls3kls3 Posts: 4
    I am the original owner so either it happpened when it was serviced even though we never had a leak or that wasn't the cause. We'll never know.
  • this is the problem that I am having the heater isnt blowing anything but cold air , took it to the car lot said it was thermostat housing that didnt work , they said it was the water pump so they are putting it on today .. i dont think thats it either ... car isnt getting hot or anything so i think that rules the water pump out , but i have seen several post stating that their sebring had no warm air that would come out either , if you know how to fix or what the problem is , please let me know .. thanks

    Dale
    catlett1982@yahoo.com
  • this is the problem that I am having the heater isnt blowing anything but cold air , took it to the car lot said it was thermostat housing that didnt work , they said it was the water pump so they are putting it on today .. i dont think thats it either ... car isnt getting hot or anything so i think that rules the water pump out , but i have seen several post stating that their sebring had no warm air that would come out either , if you know how to fix or what the problem is , please let me know .. thanks

    Dale
    catlett1982yahoo.com
  • seballrseballr Posts: 11
    I finally got my heater to work in my 2006 Sebring! I took it to a mechanic friend of mine at Firestone. The issue was the upper housing that needed replaced. the radiator was flushed and new coolant added. The cost, with a "family discount" was about $500.
  • seballrseballr Posts: 11
    Sorry. I meant to type that it was my 2002 Sebring. Good luck to all with heater issues!
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    I don't see how replacing a hose would get the heat working again unless it had a major leak and antifreeze was running everywhere. :confuse:

    Back flushing the system may have dislodged something blocking the flow or they might have also replaced a stuck thermostat while doing the other work.
  • I have a 2002 Sedan 4cyl. I have the heater/blower problem where only number 4 works ( 1,2,3 nothing). I am picking up the resistor pack tomorrow.

    Next problem, the heat works great except when I turn on the lights......it blows cold out from the front defroster whenever I turn on the headlights. Also, the rear defrost only work if the head lights are off. I cant drive at night if its cold cause the windows fog up so bad I cant see.

    Does the resistor pack have something to do with this?

    I have recently replaced the battery.
  • msminkamsminka Posts: 2
    Hi, i'm not even sure if this is the right section but here goes. Yesterday after i had just driven my 97 jxi, i turned the enginef of only to hear a boiling sound.

    I pooped the hood and realised that the coolant was bubbling...almost as if it was boiling like water. It eventually stopped after about 5 minutes of leaving the hood open.

    It did the same thing today after a 15 minute city drive. However didn't do it after another 15 minute drive on the highway. My car is showing now signs on the dash board of overheating.....

    any ideas.....i just want to get an idea of what it could be before i take it to a mechanic for them to tell me something outrageous...

    Thanks In Advance
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    It could be something as simple and cheap to fix as a stuck thermostat. They're not too difficult to replace.

    Other things that would cause it to overheat might be a clogged radiator. That would require removing the radiator, taking it to a radiator repair shop, where they would take it apart and boil it out. It's a bit of work but weigh that against the cost of a new radiator.

    Also, a low coolant level would cause overheating. That might mean that there's a leak somewhere in the system. Check the coolant level after it has cooled down for at least 4 hours or more. I don't know why an overheating issue wouldn't display a warning light on your instrument panel.
  • Kirstie@EdmundsKirstie@Edmunds Posts: 10,674
    A reporter is hoping to talk with consumers who bought purchased a car from 2004-2006 because of the incentives manufacturers were offering, such as employee pricing. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com before Friday, May 16, 2008 with your daytime contact information.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

Sign In or Register to comment.