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Chrysler Sebring Climate Control Problems



  • I have a 98 and have replaced the “Blower Motor Resistor” for the third time this summer. The blower works fine, but the new problem is there is no heat when I need it. The blower motor speed works fine, the knob that directs the air to the different areas works well; the air exchange knob also works. BUT the heat control knob rotates from cool to hot with a noticeable change in sound form cool to hot, but no heat.

    My question is this, is there a valve or relays somewhere that directs the hot water into the heater core? We had a massive water leak on the passenger side that shorted out the radio fuse and flooded the AMP under the passenger seat. I had to remove it, clean and dry it out and replaced the radio fuse. It works fine now but could there be another reason why the heater gives no heat?

    Thanks for any advise you can lend.

  • ok i have the 01 LXI coupe with 3.0....on all other sebring models there is a bleeder value for the cooling system...if you don't bleed the system you will not get heat.

    i have this same heating problem for over two years now and no one can fix it.
  • I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring JXI Convertable.(160,000 miles) My A/C won't turn off and if i turn the blower on a lower setting or off, it will freeze up. I know that the A/C compressor is constantly on, and ive tried pulling the A/C fuse out, relays but it won't turn off. (i did turn off the a/c button). Even if i am using the heater, it will eventually freeze up and no air will come out. I can see that the low pressure lines for the A/C have ice covering it. I have not had this problem for a long time. I would like to be able to turn the A/C off for better gas mileage too. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
  • You may need to reset the PCM (Power control Module). I'm having a heat problem where I have no heat, unless I rev the engine, then it's great. Fluid is good, and it's not overheating sitting idle (indicating pump problem). I found info in my public library's online auto info (Chrysler bulletin# 24-002-04 Rev.A), that says to have the car in room temp of 50-80 degrees F (whole car should probably be warm), and disconnect the M-1 fuse for 10 minutes to erase the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes),. Reinstall the fuse and start the car to initiate the HVAC system calibration. Allow to run 5 minutes for calibration to complete before shutting off car.

    I just wish I could find where fuse M-1 is located.
  • hawker95hawker95 Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have an issue with my fan speeds. 1 & 2 blows virtually nothing, but the fan is running. on 3, it blows a bit harder. Maybe about like it should on 1 or 2. Then on 4 its like a hurricane. Could this be the resistor? The blower is working on speeds 1,2 & 3, but just barely. From the other posts I have read, if it were the resistor then 1, 2, & 3 would be dead and only 4 would blow. Any ideas?
  • tscareustscareus Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Sebring, the temperature control doesn't seem to change the air coming out the vents at all. It's always hot. Is there a valve that should close off coolant to the heater core? Could it be a vacuum problem with the controls? Is there a flap that should close off the heater core? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • i have a problem where the radiator fan doesnt kick in even whe the AC is on. There is no water in the return line to the radiator. How do you know if its the temp sensor. Even if the fan motor was blown there should be water flowing thru the line. I replaced the thermostat. any suggestions
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I've got what appears to be the same problem with my 2008 Sebring Touring sedan with 16K miles, but in my case it's the high speed setting that works intermittently. Sometimes I have to play with the control knob to get the high speed to work and sometimes it will turn off by itself where I then have to jiggle the knob to get it to work.

    Since it's so intermittent I don't want to take it to the dealer just yet.

    Any thoughts?
  • ca0nhanca0nhan Posts: 1
    Could you please tell me where or which website I can buy the Fan/Blower Switch Resistor for the Chrysler Sebring 2001 sedan with the price around $12 to $24 that you have told above?
    Tks in advance
  • 2002 Chrysler sebring sedan - Heating cooling fan is oscillating. The air coming out of the vents will stop then come back on after a few moments. This will happen in all speed settings. While in the lowest speed the air seems to oscillate down to near nothing then back to speed settings? Seems kind of like a fan going out or ??

    You'll find the resistor under HVAC/control/blower motor

    Resistor, all models, sedan 01-04 $29.64
  • can anyone tell me the right way to hot wire the fan with either a toggle switch or directly to the ignition or starter please in detail im not to mechanical incline thanks
  • This is the blower motor resistor going. I've had to replace this twice on my 02 Sebring. The latest ones are made better than the previous types so it shouldn't go anymore. The only issue you may have with the newer resistors is that you will have to cut a larger hole to fit it in as they've changed the size slightly.

  • fox11fox11 Posts: 1
    2002 Sebring sedan, just had blower motor replaced then it stopped working. Back to the shop this time they replaced resistor,. Now the AC works but the damper opens and closes at will shifting the ac from floor level to face level to defrost at will? any suggestions.
  • I have a 2001 convertible 6 cyl. Exact same problem. The A/C dash control unit on mine behaves better if the trim plate is not snapped into the dash. I've noticed that the wiring harness connection to the distribution dial (floor, vent, defrost, etc.) requires jiggling to allow the distribution to work properly, especially with the headlights on. The connection is seated well, so it almost seems like the socket is not soldered well to the circuit board. I don't have the resistor block problem, so the headlight issue seems to be connection or voltage related.
  • Instructions on how to replace heater core 2002 sebring.
    Is it difficult to do?
    how many hours will is take?
  • rocky61rocky61 Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I bought a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with 33,000miles. It has been in a garage and used very little. Two days ago, it is having a problem to start. I turned on the key several times then the car will start. Auto zone checked it out and said it is the oxygen sensors, so I bought two. When the car starts runs smoothly. A mechanic says it is the fuel pump, but if it is the fuel pump why is the engine light still on, after it starts and runs smoothly? Another mechanic says it is something else. any help?
  • schaferjbschaferjb Posts: 2
    I too have an 05 Sebring. Just within the last 3 weeks I have ben getting water build up on the passenger side. After pulling the seat and removing the carpet for a second time to dry it all out, I have traced the leak to come from the evaporator housing firewall "interface"to the engine compartment. There is a foam seal (between the housing and the firewall inside the car) that is not sealing anymore. At one point all the drain water was coming inside rather than draining outside. I Tugged and pulled the seal a little bit and was able to get about half the water to drain outside. All this was after inspecting the drain tube (out side of firewall) was clear and clean. The car only has 29,000 miles and the ac cranks out cold air. I have had two mechanic friends tell me it must be the evaporator. If the evaporator was the problem, it would not work and blow cold air. I am convinced it is the foam seal but can not confirm without pulling the dash all apart to remove evaporator housing. Please tell me that you had this same problem and how you got it fixed
  • Did you find out how to hot wire switch I think mine in my 2002 chrsler sebring convertible is bad and i want to hot wire to find out? thanks mike
  • Didn't really know what to title this question. Problem: the air/heat blows only through the dash ports...turning the switch to defrost, feet, or inbetween will not change the direction of the air flow to those ports. Mechanic says the switch is working, sending signal to some kind of computer module that in turn is not sending signal to the door which pivots to change the direction of the airflow. He says the part available from Chrysler is around $600. Not acceptable. He also said that by crossing the switch with a wire they are able to get the door to move, so an option might be moving it to the defrost/feet position and let it stay. I'm not sure of the name of that "module" or I would look it up myself. Has anyone had this issue crop up?

    BTW, I had the same problem with the blower switch and with the heat not working. They replaced the resistor and flushed the cooling system and it blows hot now.
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