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Chrysler Sebring Climate Control Problems



  • Found out the mechanic thinks I need a new body control module (BCM), about $650. Does this seem reasonable?
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 974
    Hi, zephon,

    Try running your question past the folks in the Maintenance & Repair Costs topic - they should have some input for you.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • i have a 2002 sebring lxi convert...the blower fan only works on high....i am told I have to replace the resistor..has anyone done hard is it????
  • I just purchased a 2007 Sebring and I can't get heat down to my feet. The heat blasts on the windshield and defrost even though I close the vents. How do I get heat to my feet, they freeze while I suffocate. Also, is there a quick fix for cruise control not working?
  • homer17homer17 Posts: 2
    The HVAC control module seems to be a common problem with these cars. When the module goes bad, the system behaves erratically. Easy fix - replace the module (module is the circuit board behind the control dials). Pops out of dash. Bad news - part is dealer only, about $350.
  • homer17homer17 Posts: 2
    This is a symptom of the HVAC control module failing. It behaves erractically when it goes bad. Easy to replace, but part is about $350 from the dealer. The module is the unit with the control dials on it. Pops out of dash.
  • bobickbobick Posts: 1
    I am having a real odd problem with my heater blower on my 2005 Sebring. I have the standard A/C heating cooling setup. When I first start my car in the morning my blower fan control works fine. It will turn on and work at all 4 different speeds. The problem starts once the car is turned off. Once I start my car up again the blower will not come on. When I move the selector switch that controls where the air is blown (upper, lower, or both) I can hear the flaps open and close to direct the air but the fan stays off. If I move the selector to one of the A/C settings (upper, lower, recirc, or defrost) I can hear the A/C compressor kick in, but the blower will stay off. Every once in a while if I rap the area close to the control panel or the area close to the blower motor the blower will start to work. For the most part though the blower will not come on unless the engine is cold. Does anyone have any guess as to what I may need to replace to fix this. I don't have a lot of experience working on cars, but if anyone has any advice, and any pictures that might help me to do the repair I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
  • This same exact thing happened to my 02 lxi and it was the blower motor resistor. It is located behind the glove box and is very easy to change out- about 15 minutes.
  • I have a 2005 Sebring Convertible. When I turn on the heat, it takes along time to heat up in the cold. When it does finally heat up, it will continually oscillate from hot to cold and back to hot again, then cold, the setting is not on Automatic. If I put automatic on, it only blows cold air. Any idea what this could be? Please help! It's starting to get very cold in the northeast!
  • I had the same problem with my 2002 sebring convertible. I replaced it myself in about 20 min. The resistor is located under the glove box. It's awkward to get to but not hard to replace.
  • I have a 1996 Sebring conv. And the blower controller will only work is I put pressure on the knob when selecting a speed if I let go of it it shuts off,how would I replace the controller unit. :mad:
  • I had that problem and found out in the engine compartment either in the front or back part of the engine there is a bleeder valve on the radiator lines, the same kind thats in the brake calipers, sounds like you system is air bound so you need to open up the bleeder and get the air out of the system......hope this helps....
  • cycle50cycle50 Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I replaced the heater core on a 2000 Sebring Conv. Hours were approx. 10 hrs. for a 'DYI'. I had another car to use so I took my time. Wasn't too bad but had a Chiltons manual to help guide me. If you are used to working on cars and can take time it isn't too bad a job. I also did the heater core in my 1994 T&C Van which was quite the job. That was more like a week job - had to strip down the entire interior.
  • cycle50cycle50 Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I had the same problem on a 2000 Sebring Conv. I replaced the entire control unit - heat/blower/ac knob unit. Bought a replacement unit at a salvage yard for $20. Took me about 2 hrs. including pulling the part from the salvage yard. I think others had paid $350 for a new replacement unit from Chrysler. Also had the resistor problem along with the fan unit. Replace two resistors and finally the blower fan before replacing the resistor for the third time. Overall I have ~150K miles on this 2000. While I have done some repairs - also the heater core, it has been a good car for 10 years+
  • cycle50cycle50 Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    Might want to check out replacing the fan unit at the same time. I replaced two resistors and then finally the fan unit along with the 3rd resistor. (2000 Sebring Conv.)
  • robmexrobmex Posts: 3
    edited June 2013
    I have a 2001 sebring. The a/c and fan work but not the heat,rear defrost, and the air directional knob.When I turn on the a/c the air comes out strong but then settles down a lil.Is this normal?Nothing happends when I turn on heat ,rear def or directional air knob.Can or should I take it apart and fix the control switch first or do I need to buy new one? Can it be the resistor or something else? Thanks !!!
  • zephonzephon Posts: 9
    We had the car in the shop and got the air flow direction door fixed on my wife's 2002 Sebring so that's ok. But there are still issues with the climate control. When she's driving at faster speeds, the AC (or heat, when needed) seems to work fine, putting out good cold (or warm, if heating) air. But when she's driving at slower speeds such as in city traffic or stopped at signal lights, the air coming out when using AC doesn't feel cool at all, and when using the heater, it doesn't feel warm. Should engine rpm affect the climate control output? It doesn't seem to in other vehicles.

    Also, and this may be related or not, when she parks and turns the car off, the coolant often boils into the reserve reservoir and out an overflow tube. Does this indicate a faulty thermostat? We did have that replaced but it still happens. The wife says this has been going on since we bought the car.

    Trying to get these issues fixed has been a thorn in my wife's side since none of the local garages seem to be successful at it, and it costs a bunch each time we take it in.
  • Was wondering if you could offer a little guidance on how to find/access it. the fan works in my 04 sebring convertible, but not the a/c. Just had it checked for $75 & they said it was full.
  • robmexrobmex Posts: 3
    If your fan works,it must not be the resistor.First check panel control switch then thermostat.I had problems with mine.Bought a used one junk yard changed thermostat.Like new.
  • danylldanyll Posts: 1
    Hi. I think my a/c has a poltergiest! It blows cold air from the front panel venr, then all by itself, it starts blowing thru the defrost vents. .. then moves to the floor vents. .. switches to warm air. ..then back to cold air. ..then back to the front panel vents. ... etc. .. anyone else? ??? I would love some feedback... Thank you. ..

    Its a 2007 sebring convertible
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