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Chrysler Sebring Convertible Top and Sunroof Problems



  • Keep searching the forum. There are some insights into the drain system for the top. There are drain holes in the frame that clog according to some other postings.

    Good Luck on your repair; post your resolution when you have one.

    I'm still soliciting ideas for a fix on my problem at the moment.


  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    I have two questions which any assistance would be much appreciated - regarding my 2001 Sebring LXi Convertible
    1) Can someone tell me what size set-screws go in the convertible top latches to hold the "J" hooks in place? I've called 2 Chrysler parts departments and they only sell the complete latch assemblies, where my latches just have the treaded holes for the set screws, but the screws themselves are missing - so my "J" hooks (which attach to the windshield header) rotate with them.
    2) My top folds down easily with a touch of the button, but it can sometimes be difficult to raise back up - the motor seems strong, I suspect it might be the switch - could I be on the right track with that assumption?
    Thank You
    Jim in Maynard, MA
  • I have a '96 Sebring convertible and the top is fine, its just the edging around the edges of the windows that is coming apart and pulling away from the main body of the top? Does anyone have any idea?
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    Mine did the same thing so I thought I would replace the top switch - however when I pulled off the switch panel (bezel) I found what the problem was - the plastic clips that hold the switch in place (to the bezel) had broken and was not holding the switch in place properly when pushing it forward to close. As soon as I replaced the bezel the problem was solved. Takes less than 5 minutes and you can do it yourself. Hopefully that's all it is in your case too.
  • 1. 75,000 miles and convertible fails. Dealership: $1,800 to repair. Need to replace entire unit. Bundled part alone is $1,200. Out of warranty. Serviced vehicle every 3,000 miles. No reason but shabby car. Bought car for convertible. Does not function. Piece of junk.

    2. Since 50,000 miles, dashboard/cluster lights do not work but for occasional flicker. Drive in the dark of all mph, fuel levels, etc. at night. Use flashlight. Dealership: $700 to repair. Bundled part problem again. Not fuse. Not electrical. Failure. Driving in trash can.

    No remedy but lawsuit which is absurdly expensive and time consuming. Don't buy American ever. I bought this vehicle over the Solaria solely due to patriotism. Never ever again buy American.
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    I can understand your frustration and even perhaps your need to vent, however a car is a machine and machines do break down whether they are domestics or imported vehicles. When you say "convertible fails" do you mean that the top is not working? If that is the case "servicing" your car every 3,000 miles probably has nothing to do with that- especially if by servicing you are speaking on engine oil changes. As far as imports fairing better - my wife serviced her Luxury Import every 3,000 miles and that didn't prevent her expensive import's engine dying from sludge not once but twice. I only mention that as evidence that problems arise with all automobiles no matter where they are made. As far as Sebrings go - I love mine and will continue to buy "American" cars if I so desire. In fact my last convertible was a Saab 9-3 and I actually prefer my Sebring over my Saab. The Saab was a fine car, but the Sebring is more enjoyable to drive and far more comfortable for me. Again I am truly sorry you've experienced these problems with your Sebring perhaps you could post more details about what the problem is.
  • in my was the left cylinder tht needed replacement...a $300 bill locally
  • I have a 1997 Chrysler SEbring convertable, my roof rattles once I latch it down. I have adjusted the latch hooks to there max, and still have rattleing (although reduced). I noticed that the latch placement seats have come loose or moved out from the top of windshield ( were the pins seat). Is there a way to correct this?
  • windy10windy10 Posts: 2
    I have had my 2001 Sebring Ltd for 4 years. It is quieter than the JXI on the highway, but I need to make quite a few long road trips soon and I would like to dramatically reduce the wind noise. I have tightened the screws to the top. Can it be resealed? Any other tips?
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 981
    Hey, windy10 -- The tip's a few years old but it looks like Velcro worked for some of the folks here:

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I own a 2006 Sebring, Touring, convertible... When I try to fold the top back, it stalls and slowly bends back down in despite of pressing the button to fold. Im thinking it has to do with the hydraulics but I'm not sure. Can anybody help?
  • Please help me. I have the same problem and it s raining a lot now in Bucharest-Romani...I love my car but it is semlling like hell and I cannot enjoy my car anymore becaose the water in the back. Did you find any solution? I thought it is a problem at the rear glass. but it seems to be a problem few cm lower, with the material...thank you. my email is
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 981
    A lot of folks were able to cure the issue by clearing clogged drains. rbender provided detailed photos in this post:!vuserName=rbender

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • The flickering oil light is a bad oil sending unit. its probably leaking also
  • I have a 2004 Sebring Limited convertible that I bought new. Has been the best car I have ever owned. My only complaint is that when the top is up and especially in cold weather, the side windows rattle incessantly. This is quite annoying. Does anyone have any ideas for a solution to this problem.
  • charlessrcharlessr Posts: 11
    I had(have) an very annoying rattle....on any bumpy street....used velcro in both place where top does into panel....(in front) ....helps a lot....generally I often take the top and pull it to the right(manually) as it is going down to align it properly..again this helps love the car ...we have had several sebring..this is a 2002 LLXI which we have had since 2003....was thinking about buying a mustang...but, despite the negative reviews, we have no had any problem with Chrysler..maybe we will get a 200
  • Ive had a 2004,2008 and now a 2009 touring conv(all soft tops) All in all this is a good car for the money.I have 90K on it now with very few issue is the squeeky top. The new design 2008 and up if better than the earlier versions. a lot of people complain about.dont waste your time and effort trying to fix it,just part of what most american convertibles are all about. The squeeks and rattles are usually very minor,but they are there.Aside from that its a very quite car for a convertible.We live in AZ and have the top down every day,and up and down at least half a dozen times a day.
    problems to look out for
    1- These cars have some electrical gremlims (like the radio that cuts out for a second when putting the top up or down) and the micro switches for the top stop working suddenly and then reset in a little while and work again. hopefully these happen when the top is either all the up or down. I would not bother to try and repair that issue unless it stops for good. Ours has done this on both the 08 and 09 for most of the 90K miles we put on them.
    The front strut mounts tend to go bad,then you get a little rattle in the front end,change the struts and the mounts
    The 2.7 has a sludge issue,especially the earlier versions. I use full synthetic and change every 4000 miles
    also. make sure you change "all" the fluids every 50K max, trans fluid,ps fluid,coolent,brake fluid. Do this and you shoud get 150-175k out of the car. this is the most important thing you can do
    Brakes- The brake system on this car really sucks.The rotors go out of round very easily when they overheat just once. I get my brakes at brake masters.lifetime on the pads,1 year on the rotors. after about 35K you will need new front pads, then new rotors at about 50 or 60.if you get the brakes don,make sure they have at least a year warranty against the rotors getting out of round.they should turn the rotors for free up to a year
    Thats all I can think of, hope this helps
  • pmemrickpmemrick Posts: 1
    I just replaced my 2001 convertible hydraulic pump and ram cylinders with a used unit from ebay.
    It's a larger unit than the original, if that's any help. Anyway, it works great, but the cylinder travel for putting the top up is not as far as the old ones. I have to pull the top down to latch it and I'm afraid there might be some difficulty with it since I'm not the primary driver.

    Is there a way to adjust the travel on the rams or adjust the limit switch on the motor? Or did I just waste my money on a replacement?

    Thanks for your expertise!

  • I have a 98 sebring convertible, which is in great shape, and the top is in good condition. I have never noticed it leaking when it rained, but yesterday, after nonstop rain for most of the day before, the floor on the driver's side was full of water in both the front and back seats. I have no idea where the water came in, or what can be done to correct the problem. Has this happened to anyone else, and if so, do you know how to fix it?
  • windy10windy10 Posts: 2
    I have had that issue on my 99. It was resolved by tightening the screws near the latch hooks. Also check for wear and cracking on the rubber seals around the windows. I don't know why it came in the floor boards, but it happened twice and then never happened again.
  • drovkadrovka Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Sebring JXI and the drivers side metal scissor bracket is broken. dealer will only sell entire new top or new car. am just looking for scissor bracket and installation instructions.
  • papaccpapacc Posts: 1
    i have a 2008 hard top convertable. when the hard top closes, the sizzors mechacism on the side of the HT catches the headliner, twists it up, and breaks the rear "package tray" in the back by the attaching straps. this has happened twice at a cost of 300-500 dollars! anyone else with this problem? did chrysler pay for this design problem?
  • I have a 1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible and over the last few weeks there have been torrential rains. Now when I drive the car, there is what sounds like a very large body of water somewhere in the car; it is beginning to smell moldy and there is water on the floor. I also noticed there was condensation on the inside of the rear window. If anyone has had this problem, where would the water be and what do I do?
  • dan_chdan_ch Posts: 1
    Try to lift your car somewhere and look for a hose or opening somewhere close to the left rear fender. There is a train hose or something which is clogged. try to use a wire or even pressed air to clean this hose. Be aware that many liters of dirty water will pouring out.
    Let the window open for air circulation if possible to let the car try out afterwards before you got mildew and stuff.
    Good luck.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 981
    edited November 2013
    Quite a few members have had water issues, Rosie -- check this link to see more info clearing the drain dan_ch mentioned: Chrysler Sebring Water Leaks

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • there are water channels below your doors on the underside of the rocker panels and one on each side of the windshield in the center of the pillars... make sure they're not bent shut or pinched off or full of debris... a simple flat head screw driver will safice for the bottom ones just put it in the (slots) channels and free up any debris.... use a wire hanger for the top ones (if its a convertible) lower your top and on each side of the windshield right next to where the top latches are there's a hole in the center of the rubber... just push the hanger down as far as you can and pull it back up out.. do it a couple times but make sure you remove it when you're finished
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