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Chrysler Sebring Electrical Problems

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  • mtr52mtr52 Posts: 4
    Have you been able to find anything out yet? Mine seems to be working fine.
  • bubba_g63bubba_g63 Posts: 3
    I found a guy (my nieces paternal grandfather) who is Chrysler certified who fixed most of the problems ( cracked distributor cap, replaced distributor, replaced crank sensor, valve cover gasket and a major tune up) and it runs fine, but I'm still having problems with the tach and odometer going out. He checked the wiring and the cables and they appear to be in good shape.
  • hy i'v got the seame problem wheat the heat of my sebring ,i work on my car 3 days pul out completley the face of interior of the car to se the problem the heat motor works the control panel works clean all the electric conection and the heat steel don't work,then i maket a reactualization of the ac instalation seting like this 2-3 times and finaly the heat function
    so lisen up here my friendmake like this and i hope work for you to: set the first buton to step 2,then set the midle buton to max. cold air ,then set the 3 buton to window direction air then push the defreeze buton for 10-15 second and the automatic seting for ac start and indicate you the proces on board of the car were you see the kilometers and after finishing your cold air normali is to start working.hope work for you to.scuse me my english but i'm from romania and i don't know to rite very wel in english .good luck my name is Sever.
  • Hoping someone can help me. I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring convertable. My airbag light came on suddenly last night on my way home from work. Are there any tricks I can try before I take it toa repair shop and get socked with a sizeable repair bill. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • It all started with my dash light not working. Went to the dealer, they said it was fixed but then few days later it stopped again. Went back again and they can't find the problem so I just wasted over $200 for nothing. So, now I'm driving for over 2 years with the light coming on sometimes just for few seconds and then black again. Then just recently I broke my fog light when washing the car. I replaced the whole bulb, but the light did not come on. I asked my dealer to check that for me. I was informed that I need multifunction switch for $300 + labor, so I decided that I don't need the fog light and save myself some money. When the mechanics bypass the multifunction switch the light worked, so they said it is definitely that. The next day when it started raining I turn on my wipers and they are not working. I wasn't very happy because I knew I can drive without the fog lights but I can't without the wipers...no way. Back to the dealer to fix this problem but I had no idea that they will screw up something else. Next day I went to pick up my car, I was happy that my wipers and fog lights are working (multifunction switch didn't fix the dash light problem) not realizing that this time I have no left or right turn signal, (no hazard light) that is horrible on behalf of the service department that they didn't check if everything is working fine. When I realized what going on I turn around and back to the dealer but this time I wasn't nice at all. Because it was Saturday and no mechanics in the shop, I just can't wait for Monday. I would like to know what they have to do to fix all my problems and preventing this from happening again. Any sugestions? Thanks in advance.
  • I've read alot on here about Sebring electrical "Gremlins". (scary). So I'm gonna throw mine out there and hope to get some ideas of what might be going on.

    2002 Sebring sedan 2.7 V6: I already know I need a blower motor resistor which controls fan speed. (Only works on highest setting). Radio acts screwy sometimes works, sometimes just clock and no radio,radio dies sometimes if a preset button is pushed or a cd is inserted. mess w the fuse for radio and keeps it going for awhile or if I shut car off and restart that helps...sometimes...ugh. Also, lights for instrument cluster get flickery if set to highest setting and when I use directional, I turned dimmer down 1 setting and no more flicker??? And now for the final piece of resistance, My heat stays hot as long as my foot is on the gas but if sitting at a light or in traffic it goes cold, the faster I go the hotter it gets, the slower, the cooler, coolant checked at was shown to be fine. If anyone has any helpful advice I would be most grateful!!! :confuse:
  • Just an update on my Gizmo Sebring! Recently posted msg. #75 regarding elecrical gremlins and heat issues. Well, I've still got the electrical issues but I did get my heat issue fixed. Had a heater core back flush done and it seemed to do the trick. Still got to get the blower motor resistor but at least I don't have to give it gas anytime I need some hot air!! LOL. So for anyone with this same issue I would give it a shot.
  • I have a 97 Sebring Coupe. This evening I put car in park, turned off ignition, removed keys and went in the house. Later I looked outside and the tail lights were still on. Checked brake pedal (not stuck), emergency brake (fully disengaged). Can't get the lights to go off and now the battery (several hours) went dead.
    Anybody heard of tail lights staying on? Electrical problem?? Any suggestions?
  • Have a 2001 Sebring convertible with just under 80,000. It seems that when weather gets below 30 degrees, it blows fuse for the starter, radio and gasoline guage. Have had it checked and thus far no shorts found. Anyone have suggestion? I carry a large supply of 20 amp fuses, but that really is no solution.
  • I know this is going to sound crazy but have the battery tested for a shorted cell.. Drives the ECM (computer) nuts... Had a 99 that did the same thing.. Would start and run but would do all kinds of crazy stuff.. If that doesn't do it my bet is the ECM is bad...

    Tim S..
  • Got to be a short in that wire that exposes itself when cold.. One other thing it could be is the starter, specifically the solenoid portion of the starter.. Could be when cold is shorts out.. BTW 20 amps is a big fuse to blow.. I would get to the bottom of the problem before this thing light up.. Like in that funky burning electrical smell way.

    Tim S..
  • Solenoid is bad.. Tap it Starter/solenoid assy. (LIGHTLY with a hammer) and see if it stops turning over with out the key..

    Plan on replacing it as it won't get better just worse over time..

    Tim S..
  • Hey everyone, my car has an electrical problem related to the ignition switch fuse...

    It went out on Tuesday, everything was off except for my interior lights, and my door ajar light...

    Nothing happened when I turned the key on... NONE of my gauges worked. Turns out, my Ignition SW Mod Fuse keeps blowing.. not sure why and before I spend the $1100 to get it checked out, does anybody have any suggestions as to why my car would keep doing this...

    I had it started today, and driving, but as soon as i got to the bottom of the driveway, it shut off again, and kept blowing the fuse... How i got it started was, took off the negative battery terminal, let the computer reset, replaced the burnt fuse while the computer was resetting (the cable was off), and then put the negative terminal back on, and it started and ran for 15 minutes, w/o a problem... it started a total of 5 times before I moved it...

    I do have a friend who is mechanically inclined, thank god!!! I did take it to a garage when it died, they don't want to fix it, so i towed it home...

    It's a gorgeous car, and just bought new headlight assemblies for it, which i haven't had a chance to install as it died on me... When I meet Lady Luck, she's getting a C*$K-Meat Sandwich!!!

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
  • I never saw this post when I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM at the same time, & your description could be my car which I bought used in June 07.

    The first time the car blew the horn steadily, I was driving in a 4-lane, & I started swearing at the guy in the car next to me to knock it off. It took me a minute to realize it was MY car honking.

    Fortunately I had a few miles left on my warranty to get it fixed at the dealer.

    The car is still haunted a year later. When I turn on the right turn signal, it makes it all go dim. Works itself out after a minute or so.

    Looking at other posts, we could be in for some expensive problems down the road with the electric & heater/AC issues. Hope not. Lesson learned. Get rich so I can afford the repairs. I love this car otherwise!
  • I still don't know what the problem is...

    Car's sitting in the garage, I am terribly depressed w/o it...

    I miss my car, someone tell me something.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Interesting....real time troubleshooting assistance.

    My neighbors 2001 Chrysler Sebring just did the same thing. After checking a few things I came in an searched "starting" on this thread. Replaced the blown 20 amp starter/fuel pump fuse in teh engine compartment and the car started right up.

    I assume the fuel pump was the cause and may be on its last legs.
  • Mine is the 30 Amp Ignition Switch Fuse in the engine, I got a new electronic part of my ignition switch... I haven't gotten it installed yet, I just haven't had time to get it done, everyone else wants me to do stuff for them, Which I kind of have to do, b/c that's my part time job... I work on consumer's computers at their homes... part time of course, my main job i'm a CIT. Which doesn't provide me with a whole lot of spare time...
  • Okay, My 01 Sebring Convertible runs like a dream most of the time. The isssue I am having intermittently is I will be driving and all the dummy lights start to illuminate, the radio skips on and off and the display flashes, gets dim. I turn the car of at my destination. The it is completely dead. No dome light, door lights,door chime, etc...I put the key in the ignition and there is nothing as well. As soon as I apply jumper cables to the jumping posts everythhing is back on and the car fires right up. ( The cars battery is brand new). Then it will run idle, run ok, then i will shut the car off and It will be completely dead again, unitl i touch the jumper cables to it. The strangest issue I have come across. Any Ideas. All fuses are good throughout. :sick:
  • mtr52mtr52 Posts: 4
    Dome lights flicker on occasion, but seems to run fine. Makes me a little nervous when I'm in traffic and it happens. Today the "battery" light came on. Shut the car off and about an hour later came back and it turned over with no problems and drove home(about 35 miles) with no light coming on or flicker of the dash lights. It ran fine. This has been an ongoing problem for about a year. Also, there is a "goldlike" stain under the car on the driveway. Looks like rust. Anyone have any ideas. I really don't want to get rid of the car, it's a great car to drive.
  • kcats1kcats1 Posts: 1
    Just replaced battery. Driving along and radio stops working. on x-way I tapped brake and carseemed to rev up and then 10 seconds later stalled. Would not restart. Any ideas ?
  • are any fuses blown under the hood?? my ignition switch fuse keeps blowing, i'm breaking down and putting it in the garage, my bill is going to be at least $1,000; i'm praying not though... i've saved up for it so, I'm hoping i'm good... but check the fuses under the hood, maybe that will lead you to something, but good luck on your adventure...
  • npvescnpvesc Posts: 2
    I guess I will join the ranks ... I bought a beautiful 2000 JXi last year and drove it all summer with no problems. When I took it out in March, the battery was dead. Put in a new battery and got it running. After it sat for only two days, it's dead again. Looks like these cars are electrical nightmares!
  • Well, I broke down, and took my car into the garage... well, after finding out my lower control arms were bad, and getting them replaced, found them on Ebay for around $80... Also, Got new tires on Ebay bought them for less than $300 including shipping...

    My Problem was a Melted Wire by the EGR Valve. Which caused all my headaches...

    My Total Bill: $252.20

    Thank you Heim's Garage in Halifax, PA!!!
  • bobnjennbobnjenn Posts: 1
    I have an 08 Chrysler Sebring soft top convertible 4cyl. it drives ok other then when i am stopped for a minute in traffic and the car completely stalls out on me... no lights come on and there is no indication of any problems... the car has been in a few times for this and they cant even tell me whats wrong! gotta love dealerships! :( :confuse:
  • emanofozemanofoz Posts: 2
    Had same problem with a 96 Sebring. Cold solder joints on the back side of the instrument cluster. You will need to remove the instrument cluster and heat up a soldering iron. Touch each solder joint just long enough to melt the solder then remove the iron, so as not to damage the electonics behind the joint. I found a Haynes Motor manual very helpful in explaning how to remove the dash and instrument cluster.
  • Don't know for sure how to asolve your problem but my 96 Convertible interior lights stay on and will only go out when I turn the ignition key. Maybe itwill work for you. When I exit the car the lights go out, but if I open a door again all the lights go on, and will not go out until I insert the key in the ignition. Anyone know why?
  • jpiijpii Posts: 1
    My 2000 chrysler sebring JXI convertible horn won't sound when I depress the proper area in the center of the steering wheel. But it does sound when I lock-arm alarm with the remote key fob. Anybody know why this is?
  • I have a 2001 Sebring and I have the same thing happening, airbag light on, cruise control and horn not working. I heard a crack when this began. Did you find out what was wrong and what did it cost to fix it? :confuse:
  • Anyone who can answer #97, please do...any help would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • I just had the exact thing happen to my 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible! What ended up being wrong with yours?
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