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BMW 3-Series Transmission Questions

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well a transmission doesn't fail internally and then come back alive. So it sounds like you have a valving or possibly some electrical issue. I don't know off hand how your transmission is controlled. Could be a hard, old seal, a sticking valve in the valve body, etc. A trans service couldn't hurt but the thing might have to fail completely for you to know for sure what it is. I suppose a good BMW shop can perform static testing on the transmission as well if it starts to act up again.

    MODERATOR

  • The original dealer tells me that no work was ever done. BMW Canada agrees that no work inside of "BMW" was ever done and that the work must have been done outside of a BMW dealership. This is crazy (1) the only other owner of the car was a BMW dealership (2) No one would pay someone else to work on a fully warranteed car (3) It is likely only a BMW dealership would have the specialized equipment and skills to work on the transmission (it is a sealed unit).
    Regards
    Darryl
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Seems to me you should take the car back to the original BMW dealer for warranty repair.

    Since they have told you no work was ever done, how can they deny you warranty coverage without admitting they are lying to you?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,613
    Edmonton BMW? Is that in Canada?

    Are you sure this isn't the Canadian BMW dealer not wanting to do warranty work on a car that you bought in the USA?

    Maybe there is an issue with you going out of the country to get your BMW for less, and they don't want to help you out, because of it. I'm just guessing, because most BMW dealers will fix any BMW under warranty, no questions asked.

    If Edmonton BMW isn't in Canada, then never mind.. :blush:

    regards,
    kyfdx
    visiting host

    MODERATOR
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  • Hi. I bougth a 2000 BMW 323i with 130k miles, and the exact same problem happened to me. Right after this, I did a tranny flush and the mechanic found that there was debris in the transmission fluid. He things that this could have been the cause of the problem. A couple of days have passed and so far the reverse is working normal. But after reading all the BMW trans horrors stories, I was wondering how you handle your problem. Did you sell the car? or if you still have the car, did the problem come back?
  • We purchased Red 99 convertible automatic with 72K. It came with Kumho Ecsta 17in wheels and tire setup.Car runs great but only history I could find was of Non-dealer Service I so being pro-active I changed the oil and replaced the brake pads and rotors. I had some difficulty bedding in the rotors but finally got them. I had the car alinged and balanced. I am still not crazy about the way these tires ride.
    1. Don't know if I got a bad set of front rotors or is something amiss in the front end. Any thoughts appreciated.
    2. Is this transmission a GM Getrag or GM GM because I want to service it.
    3. Which service reset tool is adequate. No service lights or indicators as of yet?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,271
    1. Don't know if I got a bad set of front rotors or is something amiss in the front end. Any thoughts appreciated.

    What's the problem? A vibration when braking? If so, it could be lower control arm bushings.

    2. Is this transmission a GM Getrag or GM GM because I want to service it.

    Well, there's no such thing as a GM Getrag; Modern BMW slushboxes are either built by GM or ZF. Your car has the GM A4S 270R, and it takes Dexron III ATF. My wife had a 528i with the same box and my local BMW dealer changed the fluid in it AND the final drive for $110.

    3. Which service reset tool is adequate. No service lights or indicators as of yet?

    I use the Peake Research R5/FCX-II. It works great, and only costs $149.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Thanks for the speedy reply.
    Good question about the vibration. It does not occur when braking but it is just riding at low speed as we are leaving the neighborhood. Its not my daily driver so I'll check further on this. I'll inspect the bushings as well. I am familiar with visual and checking for play at the bushing; are there other indicators?

    I may have misspelled this name for the tranny company as I read in another post that GM (may have been Ford) bought this German company that makes or made transmissions for the BMW.
    $110 seems like a good deal on a service, however I wouldn't have any fun. Secondly if I let my wife take this car into a dealership she assumes I have gotten in over my head and I would have to put gaurd dogs on our checkbook because she'll spend $1k if I suggest she take it in.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,271
    hIt does not occur when braking but it is just riding at low speed as we are leaving the neighborhood.

    Wheel bearing, perhaps. The driveshaft fas a rubber coupling at the transmission as well as a center bearing.They should still be good on your car, but it is something else to check.

    I am familiar with visual and checking for play at the bushing; are there other indicators?

    Nope, that's pretty much it.

    $110 seems like a good deal on a service, however I wouldn't have any fun.

    I perform the minor maintenance and repairs on my cars and bike, but it's worth $110 to not have to deal with an ATF change. I assume that you know that there is no dipstick and that the fluid must be checked through the fill plug at the proper temperature. In any case, the gory details can be found here and here. BMW now calls for a ATF change at 100K, but I think that you are smart for changing it before then. If you are going to tackle the final drive I'd use a good synthetic 75W-90 gear oil. I have used Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple, and Valvoline Synpower- and all have worked fine.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • mjbro4mjbro4 Posts: 2
    Not sure if it is a 5L40E OR ZF 5HP-19? Unable to get under the car at this time, but need info to search for replacement. I believe it's production was 6/00. Thank you for all your help.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,271
    It's most likely a 5L40.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • mjbro4mjbro4 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response, would the vin # help determine this also? Any way to enter my vin and see this?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,271
    Try this site.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Alldata says it's a ZF 5HP 19 (build date 3/00 to 6/00)

    This trans would have the ID # A5S 325 Z

    The GM 5L40E looks to be the earlier unit. So if ALLDATA is correct 3/00 is the cut-off date. I'd guess most 323s are indeed the GM 5L40E, but not yours, which is a fairly late build date.

    MODERATOR

  • I've experince the same issue with my BMW

    I'm not sure if it has to do with the cold weather. It's happen to me twice now and my car is in the mechanic. Has this happen anymore to your car what did you guy do to fix.
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