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Jeep Liberty Transmission Problems

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  • Hi,i just bought my first Jeep Liberty (2007).I had the same problem as yours,the truck won't back up while turning the wheels when i'm in Part Time.It grinds and makes all kinds of awful sounds,i have to press heavily on the gas pedal and then it starts to move 10 inches at the time...When i try to go forward while turning to park the Jeep into a parking space...the same crap happens.

    Have you ever found out what the problem is?Should i be worry?

    Thanks,

    Ginette
    Ajax,Ontario,Canada
  • jtcorbinjtcorbin Posts: 1
    Is there more than one line pressure switch? if so which one did they replace? My son is having the same problem with his Liberty.
  • The t-case wasn't the challenge. My lever wasn't putting the t-case into full-time 4wd and I was feeling bind. All is well now. Issue resolved.

    Tranny is a different story, I got to 87K miles and the transmission is now (once again) shifting hard from 2-3rd gear (at approximately 20MPH under light-to-moderate accelaration). It also "bangs" into drive when I move the shift selector to "D". I pulled the codes and one was tranny overheat and the other was the generic TCU code.

    Has anyone had this issue? Am I looking at a bad wiring harness or a bad TCU or both?

    Thanks for any guidance.
  • Thanks again to all the regular contributers to this Great Forum. I have done most of the maintenance and repairs on my Jeep myself with some help from this forum and my Factor Service Manuals (Hard Copy Books & CD).

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD - 129k miles, stock everything, original EGR, second engine block/head/turbo/water pump at 40k miles. I plan to change my timing belt before winter and would appreciate some suggestions about what else I shoud do to maximize the life and performance of my gutsy little diesel.

    It seems like a good idea to disable the EGR before it creates the big problems some people have reported. There are a few other upgrades that sound worthwhile like the Pro-Vent system. I can't do everything of course, but I am willing to spend about $1,000.00 this time to buy a little peace of mind. I will do all the labor myself with the help of my diesel mechanic brother-in-law.

    My transmission has so many miles on it, I am reluctant to invest in a shift kit or other upgrade. No doubt it will need a total rebuild in the not so distant future, but it is working great now. Should I consider replacing fuel injectors or glow plugs or just wait for them to fail?
  • The shifter goes all the way from park to 1st and back to park without pushing in the button. Also when I put it in park it will not allow me to remove the ignition key. If I remember correctly you are supposed to push the little button on the front of the shifter to get out of park and past drive and back into park again. This just happened out of the blue when moving the vehicle in my driveway.
    Any ideas on how to fix this would be great. Especially if I can do this myself.
  • First time poster here so hope someone can help. I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 4WD and my wife was driving down the highway doing 65 and it jerked hard and when she pushed on the accelerator it just reved up like it was in neutral. She pulled to the median and called me i told her to try pulling it into first and it would pull a little but was bogging the engine down so then i told her to put it in 4wheel hi and the front tires started spinning like they were trying to pull the jeep by themselves. So long story short i got off work checked it out and it will not do anything in reverse but in drive it tries to pull but boggs engine and hesitates. Please anyone give me some idea if its tranny or transfer case or something else
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Gee I wonder if you busted a differential....

    MODERATOR

  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    The diff is fine.

    Around 79K miles, the TCM was throwing several codes and they replaced part # 4799758-ad sensor. Apparently this is the one and only, but I am not a tranny expert (obviously from my other posts). The replaced line pressure sensor resolved my problems for about 9K miles.

    Now at 88K miles, I am getting P0700 (MIL request from TCM) and P0714 (transmission internal temp sensor intermittent).

    I am looking at the service manual for the 545RFE. Can anyone verify/validate for me that the internal fluid temp sensor is integrated into the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)? if this is true, it looks like I would have to pull the valve body.... but is the TRS integrated into the valve body (i.e. do I have to purchase the whole valve body new) or is the TRS a replaceable/separate component?

    Does this make sense?

    *update* crap, looks like a $380 part and few hours of wrench-time, correct?
  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    edited October 2011
    I forgot one very important note to my last post.

    I bought a ODB-II code reader, when my tranny started acting up around 88K miles. When I reset the codes, the transmission shifts like it just "rolled off the factory line."

    It might be two minutes, two hours, or two days later; and it sets P0700 and P0714 agains and starts shifting roughly.

    Rinse and repeat. Same random results.

    Is there a way to splice a resistor into one for the wires from the 24-pin connector an send the TCM the expected voltage, all of the time? I know that's some serious stupid-engineering... but it drives very well WHEN the codes aren't set.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Oh I was replying to someone else's problem, not yours.

    MODERATOR

  • I have 2004 Liberty, simliaar thing happened. It ended up that the throttle sensor was gone and resulted in burning out the clutches in the tranny. Long story short 57k miles and a 2250.00 bill for a new transmission! I was not thrilled. This happen this week, Wish you luck.
  • Hi there. I come seeking your advice. My 2004 Liberty seems to have a bad clutch. It has 78K miles on it and I have never done any sort of service on the clutch. I am not sure if it could be the transmission which is why I came here hoping you might help me.

    It was loping for a couple days in the lower gears after the clutch was disengaged. Then finally, it wouldn't pull the car at all in any gear.

    The dealer wants $1200 to replace everything (his words) and $900 to just replace the clutch. My questions are these:

    1) What does a clutch problem look like as opposed to a transmission problem?

    -and-

    2) Have you seen this sort of problem resolved and if so, how?

    Best regards,

    Damien Riley
    car info:
    Make: Jeep
    Model: 2004 KJ Liberty 2WD
    Transmission: Manual
    Engine Size: Basic
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Well if you mean you could put the car in 1st gear easily, lift on the clutch, and the car didn't move, then yeah, you need a clutch and maybe a flywheel resurface.

    If you mean you can't GET it into any gear anymore, then you may only need a clutch hydraulics overhaul, which is a lot cheaper.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks a lot. It does go into gear and not slip out. BUT, it does not disengage and move the car. Does this sound at all like a transmission thing? What would the differences be in symptoms? My instinct tells me it is a clutch replacement thing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Hard to say not being there myself. Maybe the transmission shift linkage has fallen apart but I doubt it's an internal transmission problem.

    MODERATOR

  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    OK, I have discerned a pattern during which the P0714 code get's set. It occurs under two conditions:

    1) Leave the truck idling in Park for 8-12 minutes. This is 100% repeatable.
    2) Operate the vehicle with the Air Conditioning running on the road for more than 10 minutes. About 80% repeatable.

    Ambient temp doesn't seem relevant, nor does driving conditions (city vs. highway).

    Any thoughts?

    -Marc

    PS I am strongly considering pulling the Internal Temp sensor wire and feeding the TCM a false 15ma value :-). The tranny runs fine, once the codes are reset.
  • Thanks so much. I feel this is a clutch issue and so I am having the mechanic repair it completely for $900 +tax. I know it is steep but I am confident it will solve the problem since I had a similar problem years back with a geo metro.

    I appreciate your input in helping me understand that it was a clutch issue.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    maybe you should shop around for clutch prices. This seems too high to me.

    MODERATOR

  • My transmission will not engage in any gear, backed out of driveway pulled forward 30 feet and put in park ran into the house with vehicle running, came out a minute later engaged in drive and it would not move, the same in all positions. Checked the switch lever ok, fluid is fine and the transmission had not been acting up. scan tool gives me a P0841 reading, changed the pressure switch sensor and no change. My next guess is the pump? Any ideas on what the problem is or suggestions on what actions to take next.
  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    Without a pressure test, impossible to say about the pump. They don't tend to fail catastrophically, rather they fail over time.

    Do you have the 45RFE tranny?

    This one needs a pro. My non-pro guess is that a pressure control device is failed in the closed state.... and pressure is not being passed.
  • Yes I do have the 45RFE tranny, and I tend to agree with the pump failure so abruptly. My next thought is to get a pressure test done.

    Thanks for your information
  • Have you resolved this? I am having the same identical symptoms. Thanks
  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    For now, I am using a work-around. I have a $50 code reader /resetter. If it set the code, I pull over, shut down, reset the codes, start up and drive off as-normal.

    While this work-around is annoying, it works and costs me nothing.

    If I get resolution, I will post it.
  • This morning i was driving to work and i realized my gas pedal felt stuck to the floor, I couldn't get up to any amount of speed and then my tranny light came on. I managed to putt back home with it and it started accelerating on it's own and i had to slam the brakes on and the back tires just kept spinning. When i went into park the engine reved up really high so i just shut it off. Any ideas?
  • i have 2002 Jeep Liberty 4x4 3.7 the trany sometime shifting properly and some time not and the check engine light comes on :( . i replaced the speed sensor and still does the same . the truck has 54K on it . it is like brand new , please any one can give any tip ?
  • did you ever find out what the problem was? I get the same rumbling, worse if I use then disengage the 4wd . Mine is a 2005 Liberty --also working on my second broken rear window regulator in one year.
    other than this I love my jeep.
  • My 2004 Jeep Liberty (3.7L) , which I have owned since new, is now experiencing a shaking or vibration, for lack of better term, when speed wanders between 40 and 50 mph or so. Full disclosure: the transmission seems and feels like it shifts in and out of gears beautifully...no issues whatsoever with engaging. There are no pops or whines. Doesn't feel like it is slipping either. But I cannot figure out what this vibration--or shaking--is related to. I topped off tranny fluid, not much difference. Next stop was mechanic for diagnosis. Anyone else with the same or similar issue. Thanks in advance. For the record, it has 140,000 original and has been a beast...just an awesome ride.
  • FYI - There is a recall (ish) on the broken window regulator problem. I received a letter from Chrysler, letting me know they have extended it to a 7 year, unlimited mileage warranty on the windows. I also furnished them with over $450 of parts costs on previous window replacements, which they wrote me a check for. It would be worth checking with Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,902
    Speed-specific vibrations are usually tire and wheel related. If you can drive into, and out of, the vibration zone, it is almost surely that.

    MODERATOR

  • rabertrabert Posts: 2
    I think I may have fixed it. I replaced the transmission control module that mounts on top of the valve body. It was relatively easy to do, but messy as usual. I have not had the code or limp mode since replacement. But just replaced it Friday 1/6/1012, so I will see what happens this week. The part cost about $230 from molar parts online.com. Just FYI. Thanks
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