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Jeep Liberty Transmission Problems

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  • does anyone know anything about the tranny not going into reverse or neutral but will go into drive! Also there is a wine when it goes into reverse only after sitting a while.
  • I have a 2005 CRD 4x4. Check engine light came on last year, dealer claims EGR valve needs to be replaced. Replace it. Now, 15K miles later, check engine light comes on again - dealer again says EGR valve. I don't believe him, look at user forums and they are skeptical. 8 weeks later (this week) transmission fails in the middle of a highway in morning rush hour. Tow it to dealer. They ask if the EGR valve had been replaced, I told them no and then they said "well it could have been a transmission code" (Gee thanks). Will not let the dealer replace the transmission - car had been running beautifully up till then. Transmission service done last summer. Car has 124K miles on it - almost no towing miles (<100). Will a tranny really fail that early? So frustrated, love the car, particularly after 60" of snow in 5 days this winter, we were out and mobile, but do I really want to sink a bunch of $? Need to decide by Monday, any advice appreciated. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    Not sure how an EGR code could be mistaken for a Transmission code but....regardless, 125K is not really very premature for transmission failure. I mean, sure, some go further but 125K is a lot of miles---more like what you'd see on a 10 year old car. I don't see this as a "defect"--more like bad luck, and I'm sorry you have to bear this expense.

    In any event, your vehicle is still worth more than the cost of a new transmission---if you don't fix it, you'll get practically nothing for your trade-in.

    MODERATOR

  • I have had my jeep liberty for 5 years now and while I really like it, all of the sudden things are starting to go wrong with it. First I had to have an entire new A/C put in. Now, I am hearing a loud rattle under the hood when I shift from Park to Reverse and let it coast. Once I shift from Reverse to Drive, the rattle goes away until I accelerate from a dead stop. Any ideas what this could be? I called the Jeep dealership, as they are looking at it today but they so far have not been able to find the cause. They say it has something to do with the transmission most likely. This is not under warranty and i'm terrified of the outcome.
  • I got my transmission replaced on my 2003 Jeep Liberty. It seems to be working fine but I have noticed a slight problem when coming to a stop. When I come to a slow stop, the car feels as if it may stall but it doesn't. It doesn't happen all of the time but occasionally. I have had the car back for 4 days now, and it has happened maybe once or twice a day. Please let me know what you think! I live 3.5 hours away from where I got it repaired after breaking down!
  • sccziiscczii Posts: 2
    i have a 03 liberty with 133k miles. i think the tranny is slipping.. when i am at a stop lite and when i take off on a hard acceleration it hessates to go and : then it finally kicks in and goes but when i take off easy it dont seem to slip....and the mileage has gone down by 2mpg. is it my transmission or something else. has anyone else had this kinda problem. can anyone help me? it all started immediately right after the transmission fluid was changed. is there a code that has to be reset after the transmission fluid is changed ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    Doesn't sound like the transmission, but rather an engine management or fuel delivery issue. You could scan the car's computer for codes---something might show up. When your transmission "slips", your tachometer needle shoots way up but your car goes nowhere.

    MODERATOR

  • sccziiscczii Posts: 2
    Thanks, Mr.Shiftright. I'm going for oil change tomorrow. Will scan the computer code and let you know the result.
  • Mine has a back of the vehicle thumping knock when fast accelerating. No slippage or loss of power was noticed. And lately, when stopping fast, it would stop as usual until stopped or almost stopped, and then lurch forward several feet, with the brakes applied, and kill the engine.

    Its been at a mechanic's shop for 5 days now. It took 2 days to replicate the problem and the next to get it on a rack. They have tranny exposed, find only light metal shavings, and no visible problems or analytical solutions. All they have offered is a 3 grand replacement. But if they haven't found a problem yet, how does putting a new version of the same thing solve anything. That, and I don't have $3,000 to hope they get it right.
  • Jeep Liberty
    Dodge Caravan ETC ETC ETC..

    When will you people learn, American vehicles are junk, the dealerships put faulty transmissions in cars knowing it will go bad around the time your warranty goes out!

    The next year model car they will take that same faulty transmission and put it in a newer model to make money,,, If you have an extra 3000, for a transmission and 7000, to replace a motor every 3 or 4 years then keep on buying american!
  • SELL it now, the Liberty's also have major engine problems after about 100,000 miles! Google it if you dont believe me,, good luck! I would recommend a Honda CRV..
  • The problem is your motor mount is the culprit. I have two CRD Libertys and both have had that problem. Since your out of warrantee send your ECU to Green Diesel Engineering and have it reprogramed, be ready for ALOT of POWER and at least 5 mpg increase. See Eurekaboy.com for the window regulator web page, I've changed out all 2 on both Jeeps, put in a Provent Crankcase breather filters, Flowmax mufflers and Kennedy fuel pumps. Both are over 110k miles and we are so very happy with the little guys. Ours also tows a 23ft travel trailer all over the country. Oh I also went to the U pull-it Salvage yards and got two air boxes from gasers to aid in the air input system. You'll understand why the muffler once GDE reprograms your computer the stock sounds like it is going to blow a seam!
  • To you all, this is a motor mount/s what is happening is accelerating the engine is lifting and the plates are rattling same goes at idle, raise the hood have a spouse or friend put in drive, insure the emergency brake is on. and step gently on the accelerator the engine may rise, if not that mount is good. Now try reverse and perform the same task you should see it. Nothing about todays mechanics, but I grew up with chugs, go-carts, hot rods and some things never change, and of course guess what NO DARN COMPUTER CODE! As for your shifting put in a transgo shift kit, have the little darling reprogramed by GDE ( Green Diesel Engineering) and your shifting will go away, here again the programing to lower the engine torque on the T/C Torque Converter to save it causes the TC to search for the little guy doesn't now have the umph to push it through. You have to understand the TC came from Dodge Hemi powered cars and 1/2 ton trucks, but to keep costs down the TC is not the one behind those engines. The upgrade is just that one of the correct TCs. Have a good day.
  • have a 2005 jeep liberty 78,000 mile. last week started with a loud sound almost a rumble when u hit 50 mph( not grinding) mid vehicle. The vehicle is well maintained not used off road, occ tows a boat short distance. transfer case appears to have some fluid on the bottom side. will check fluid tomorrow need allen wrench. any suggestions?
  • I also have 2 crds. My wife's is currently appearing to have tranny issues. SHe had some extremely loud noise and she says the rpm went to 5K, ouch. Fortunately she noticed and drove it home at a reduced RPM. Have you had any tranny issues?

    I am out odf state right now so I can't check it out myself.
  • spoograbspoograb Posts: 6
    Hi all, I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4 3.7L 4 Speed Auto. I bought it back in October as a certified preowned with 25k miles. Now at 30k, I am noticing the transmission from 1st to 2nd shifts roughly. This wasn't happening as much before and it really only happens when the vehicle has been driven for 15 minutes or so. I live in New England and the temps are still fairly cool (40s/20s) so I'm not sure why this is. I talked to the dealer several times about it and they said because I came from an 08 Honda Civic transmission, I was not used to Jeep transmissions and that they are supposed to be rough. I'm basically posting this to find out if anyone else has this sort of an "issue" with their transmission only shifting into 2nd gear? And is this something I should be concerned about? The transmission warranty expires at 80k and probably won't be keeping the vehicle past 60k or so.

    Thanks!
  • marckymarcky Posts: 12
    Not sure if this is helpful. I own a 2005 libery limited crd 78k miles. Recently had the same problem and the ECM threw two codes: first code was transmission control module and the second was related to rapid changes in transmission fluid temp. The dealer replaced a line pressure switch and everything is back to normal. Shifts are normal.

    Now however I am having trouble with the transfer case. 2wd is fine. 4wd full time cause the vehicle to grind to a halt. I can only describe the feeling as though the brakes are applied. I can push the accelerator and move the vehicle but it resists forward motion and quickly comes to a complete stop upon releasing the accelerator pedal. Anyone have thoughts on this one? I know that the NV242 transfer case has a planetary gear to allow the front and rear shafts to spin at different speeds while in full-time 4wd. Could this planetary gear be buggerred up?
  • msapamsapa Posts: 1
    Check your transmission cooling lines for leaks.
  • whitiefordwhitieford Posts: 8
    Hello,

    If you want not to put the money into a SunCoast T/C and Transgo shift kit be prepared to be dealing with problems. The 545 transmission was designed for a 6 or 8 cyclinder engine and definitely not one with the torque of a Hemi, but a Hemi is 8 cylinders=4 power strokes and a 6 cylinder = 3 power strokes of torque/power to the TC and onto the transmission as a whole. The CRD Mighty Mite is 4 cylinders =2 slam dunk of pure torque/power to the TC = to a 4 stroke Hemi in the power range. Not hard to understand why the TC's fail, even the recall replacement better but won't last. Now, I'm sorry I forgot to mention this and try this out, put a car ramp under the front wheel and back wheel have someone watch for you when your centered up on both and stop, emergency brake. I've seen this on alot of cars not just our beloved CRDs (most of the time) reach around near the top from the driver's side you will find the transmission breather laying "FLAT". Cut the hose directly behind it and go to the auto parts purchase 6 feet of same size hose and a junction connector/splice connector. Now run the hose first down from the engine compartment route the hose to stay away from sharp and hot items, zip tie here and there, put the union connector and hose you purchased into the transmission breather line ( Dawn soap works great for this task) then I tied ours off onto the brake line box just infront on the firewall on the drivers side as it should be "VERTICAL". Now unplug the battery clean the MAP sensor check Eurekaboy.com for this. Good luck I have alot more to say for mods I've performed and researched 33.5 mpg in town, it'll take 2 years to break even but the little pains and some larger are all gone 1 year and not even a hickup.
  • whitiefordwhitieford Posts: 8
    I just worked on a friends CRD and it had nothing to do with the transfer case, I found the Turbo Charger failed. I inquired with them both were they performing cool down of 3min from 1800 rpm and greater and pre- warming when 45 degrees colder outside temp for over a min, they weren't. I had to clean the inter-cooler, intake manifold, and EGR. The new Turbo also comes with a flex cooling line. Here is a old military trick for deactivating a turbo that is starting to fail and you can get yourself home and no damage. Take some heavy aluminum cooking foil fold into four sheets thick. Loosen the turbo tube on the passenger side inter-cooler then wrap the inter-cooler like a bowl nice and tight now put the hose back on the turbo is now inop.
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