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Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • i had similar problems too but mine wasnt with turns or stops but the codes did tell us that it was the camshaft and crankshaft sensor and we bought then and we did it ourselves its really easy...when we took our sensors off the were rusted on.
  • So, I had the same issues: my speedometer was at 0 when going about 70 and the jeep would stall when I was coming to a stop. I just got it back from my mechanic and it's all fixed. Here is the problem: there was no slack in the wire that runs out to the speed sensor at the top of the rear differential. I must've hit a bump that knocked it loose. My mechanic was able to re-route the wires and allow for some slack and the jeep runs like normal now (no stalling and the speedometer works again). If the re-route is not possible, there is a Chrysler repair kit ( part # 05013995aa ) that basically includes some longer wires. Hope this helps!

    (Other things to check: replace the speed sensor itself)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    I was told that the rear differential sensor cable must remain out of reach from the hand brake cables. It's one of the hand brake cables that tears the sensor wires.
  • This Error Code points to an "incorrect 3rd gear ratio" and sure enough the transmission will not shift into 3rd gear - How does one diagnos this further ?
    Does this mean an internal issue or just a linkage problem ?
    Thanks in advance.
  • I have a strange one...

    My Jeep liberty starts fine, no issues there. If it is cold, it will run just fine. Given 10 min or so the problem begins.

    When i pull up to a stop sign, the RPM drops down to its idle level, then will slowly fade until the engine stalls and shuts off. If I am rolling down the road at any speed and let of the the accelerator and just let it cruise, it works just fine. It is only when the vehicle is not moving. Whether it is in Park, Neutral, or Drive doesn't make a difference. Once the vehicle has been running for 10 min or so, it does this every time.

    I took it to a mechanic and they replaced the "Throttle position sensor." This was a fix for approximately a week. I took it back, they said the sensor was bad and replaced it again for free this time. This fix lasted for about 24 hours.

    Now I am back to the same situation. Anyone got anything to help me? :mad:
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    My Jeep started out only dying at stop signs then it died in the same way on the highway going 65+! I had the crank sensor replaced and it worked for awhile then died again, then I had my gas cap replaced and I haven't had the problem in over 7 months.
    Hope that helps!
  • 94K and never had an issue. This morning without warning the engine began to sputter and run roughly. I limped to my ANG unit where I was reporting to weekend duty. Engine will not allow RPM's to exceed 2,000 whether driving or sitting in neutral. I pulled the following OBD diagnostic codes: P0320, P0725 and P0175. I can drive it but no faster than 40 - 45 MPH. At stop it will idle very roughly and acceleration is poor.

    Any ideas????
  • Sorry to bother all of you but I must tell you the problem I'm having and hopefully somebody can help.

    My jeep liberty 2002, 107k miles is having a hard time starting after hours of no usage, sometimes just enough to cool down the car, say, 3-4 hours. The car tries to start and dies immediately, the only way I can make it work is by accelerating to 3k-4k rpms, hold the pedal down for a few seconds, and then let it go.. sometimes it will stall and turn off and I have to keep trying, and sometimes it will stay at idle, after that, if I drive it and turn it off and on again, it will turn on like nothing ever happened, the mechanic changed the MAF sensor already though the computer is not giving out any codes, to the computer the car has nothing wrong and also I took it to another mechanic and told me there was nothing wrong with the car. I'm very afraid it will stall on the road like it's happening to you guys.
  • I've got an 05 Liberty CRD that has stalled three times in the last week--all at the same stoplight. In addition, it frequently has been having a problem maintaining idle RPM when slowing to a stop. Seems to have no relation to warm-up time. No dummy light on. Have added fuel since start of problem. All fuel from usual source. When not experiencing the problem, seems to run fine. After each stall episode, it started readily and ran okay, with no further problems during that trip.

    More details re: specific trips on which engine stalled. Each time, it was on afternoon drive home from work. Pulling up to stop at stoplight approximately 1 mile from workplace, engine stalled at almost exactly same moment that vehicle came to a stop, all three times. Have almost stalled a few other times, but have also pulled up to same light, same circumstances, with no problem.

    No significant repair history for engine problems to speak of. All routine maintenance done per manual.

    I see above mentions of "throttle body" problems, cable routing problems, fuel cap problems, and more. It's NOT the fuel cap, as best I can tell. There are no other issues with faulty speedometer readouts or the like, and I can't imagine why a cable problem would be so specifically intermittent, so to speak.

    I've got an appt at the dealer's service dept. (please pray for me!), but I'd like to have some idea of what the problem is before they charge me an entire Obama stimulus package to (maybe) fix it.

    Any ideas, suggestions, etc. are welcome.

    Thanks
  • Get a new fuel filter. Wix Filters are 1/2 the price your dealer will charge. Find a truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]. Before the new filter is put on your CRD fill it with transmission fluid. The transmission fuel burns hotter than diesel oil and will get the carbon out of the CRD. I carry a WIX fuel filter always in my '05 Liberty Ltd. and have had your problem.
    A bad battery will also cause similar trubble.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi,
    Is your engine already warm when it stalls coming to the stoplight you describe? I imagine your transmission oil is also "not yet at temperature".
    Try engaging the "D" position on the transmission and hold the truck for a minute by applying the brakes: this will warm up the engine, cabin heater and transmission.
    It works for me, so nowadays I let the engine run a few minutes while I get rid of the ice and snow off of my wife's vehicle and I don't disengage the transmission while waiting in the local traffic. 5 minutes later I reach the motor way with the engine warm and with the proper shifting sequence.
  • Sounds like you're saying the problem is basically a plugged fuel filter; am I understanding that correctly? Would be nice if that's it, since that'd be a cheap fix.

    I really don't think it's a battery problem, given that the engine will restart immediately without difficulty, and it starts on cold mornings pretty much as it always has.

    Regarding the Wix filter--you mention finding a "truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]". Not sure I understand this bit at all. Why do I need to find a truck driver? Are these filters not available otherwise? What am I missing here?
  • "Is your engine already warm when it stalls coming to the stoplight you describe?"

    Yes and no. It's now stalled--completely died, that is--four times. Each occurred within a mile or two of starting a trip. Some warm-up had been allowed for each episode. The warm-up time allowed for the engine during each of these circumstances varies from approx. 3 to as much as 20 min, all spent sitting in lot at idle. This last amount occurred as I sat in the lot, talking on my cell phone while the Jeep idled. [Call history says the phone call lasted 21 min.] I've not had the Jeep out on a trip of longer than about ten-12 miles in the last month, so can't tell you what it acts like at mile 45, say.
  • eammeamm Posts: 3
    A new fuel filter is a cheap thing to try. I agree that this is a good possibility b/c I have had the same situation. I changed the filter and everything was good. I keep many on hand and change about every 5K. You can get them online if you don't want to pay the dealer price. Try, http://www.discountautoparts.com/
  • Now I'm up to four episodes of completely stalling, and the Jeep's at the dealer since 0700 today.

    In phone call with tech this PM, I was told that (a) they didn't pull any codes from the vehicle's computer- when they hooked up "the Derby" to it to check for DTCs, (b) they couldn't replicate the problem when they drove it [of course not], (c), they'd been working on the scheduled maintenance (I'm doing the scheduled stuff same visit for convenience) and (d) I need new brake pads and rotors resurfaced. So, at 43,000 mi and change, I need new brakes (rear moreso than front), after replacing brake pads already at about 23,000, they don't know what the cause of my actual problem is, have little hope of figuring it out, and I'm considering trading the Jeep for a decent bird dog.
  • As I said above, I like the idea of a fuel filter being the fix. How would a fuel filter going bad lead to a sudden drop of idle when braking to a stop?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    The valve that sets the fuel pressure inside the common rail could give you the same symptom taken into account that the engine is warm and suddenly unloaded by applying the brakes. Try not to use the A/C to see if there is a difference. How does your transmission pull on the engine when this occurs? Have you tried going into Neutral just as you come to a stop?
    I tend to disengage the transmission because my engine pulls quite hard while idling cold: my driveway has a steady ramp of 25% incline and I don't need the brakes to hold the truck in place. If you try to push the Jeep on such a slope, you will better appreciate the power of the diesel engine when it idles; it has to choke or starve to die out.
  • tdmaforttdmafort Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem, I was told that it might be the intake air control sensor. Changed it but still having the same problem. Was wondering if you had solved it yet.
  • chapusinchapusin Posts: 19
    Sorry dude, I gave the car as a trade in and bought a 2010 Tucson. Feels so good.
  • Sadly it is not a fuel filter. it is not an oil issue.. Sadly it is a transmission issue. Specifically a torque converter issue.. When coming to a stop does the jeep feel like it wants to keep pushing until it finally starts chugging and dies. if so, you have the plague of the 05 jeep CRDs.. I have had my jeep into the deal 10 times for this issue. had all the fluids changed. had all the filters changed, had all the diags done and yes it still stalls. every day.. and it gets worse when it has been sitting on hot days.. Oh and the best part. It has stalled on the dealer 4 times but since no error code is generated, they will not fix the issue under the warranty... My suggestion, replace the torque converter with an high proformace after market, reflash the tranny or sell it. There is no fix for this issue that is under 750$ bucks..
  • Can you please give the part Number for the fuel filter? I just bought a 06' CRD with 26k miles.. so far really like the "rig"...

    Thanks!
  • antonimusantonimus Posts: 1
    hi, i was on a high way today and for some reason at some point my started dropping speed and eventualy i stoped on the side and i couldnt start the car after, its not coolant liquid and its not oil when i got home i tried starting it and black smoke was coming out and after whitei have a suspicion thats its a timing belt and if someone could help me out please message me on my email toss_1986@hotmail.com
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    please message me on my email

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,833
    edited May 2010
    Probably not a timing belt, no. You probably will have to have it towed into a garage to have the diagnostic trouble codes read by computer to see what's up. Could be so many things here, not enough info to diagnose from a distance. MAF sensor, crank or cam sensor, clogged catalytic, bad ignition coil, failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, bag fuel injector, other sensors reading incorrectly, bad ECM, etc etc.

    MODERATOR

  • rudyf1rudyf1 Posts: 1
    I am replying to a post that is four years old, but hopefully you still check this site. Anyway, the same exact thing is happening to my Jeep Liberty 2003. I paid a mechanic to fix it (450.00 later) and they replaced 2 sensors, coil, spark plugs, and the Jeep still does the same thing..... any suggestions?
  • xbeanxxbeanx Posts: 4
    Rudy I replaced my plugs with those bosch quadfire sparkplug things. It ran like garbage so I replaced them with autolite ones. Turns out the bosch ones were slightly too long for the cylinder regardless of the partnumber it said was for my jeep. Prolly a noob move anyways on my part but regardless it still jad the stallin kssue. I replaced the coils and iit ran great for about a day. Then it stalled out again while accelerating to pass someone on the freeway so I took it ti a shop. I had them replace my crank and cam sensors. It ran for about 15 mins then it ran like garbage. I hooked up my diagnostic computer and it read a misfire in cyl3. Impossible I thought as I had just replaced the coils and the plugs were exact replicas of what was in before. So I went and bought another new coil. After replacing the coils again conpletely I found out that once one coil goes bad the others tend to fail a lot easier not too long after. Kind of like a dominoe effect. Wjat had happened to me was that the new cyl3 coil I had installed the 1st time went bad and fried the rest of them randomly. Pull your coils one by one and check the shaft for any irregular bulging or cracks. Once I replaced all my coils at the same time with new coils, it ran like a champ and still is running great! I have a 2003 jeep renegade. Feel free to email me if you'd like. Beanx@gmail.com
  • wolfman62wolfman62 Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2007 Liberty with 89,000 miles and it just started doing the same thing when we try to start it, the locks start clicking, and the starter doesn't engage, but all the lights and everything are fine, it act's like the battery is low or dieing, but all lighting and everything look normal. after a couple of tries it will finally turn over and start, but after it gets started it has no power, the engine wont rev up, it will only do about 25 miles per hour, but if you shut it off and start it a few times then it will run fine. Has anyone else had this issue and have you found out what it was on your Jeep.
  • pvanderhpvanderh Posts: 2
    This morning my 2006 Jeep Liberty started to act like it was going to die at a stop light. I was only a few blocks from leaving my house. I kept my foot on the gas slightly to keep it running. I turned down the next road and as soon as I put my foot on the brake to pull to the side of the road it died. I tried to start it and it almost started but was real rough. If I pushed on the gas right as it started it would run but very rough, as though it was running short of all 6. Does anyone know where I could start before I take it in to a stealership or moneychanic? It sound similar to some of the problems tha have linked to throttle body cleaning and cam sensor replacement but I did not notice gas smell and the tach did not go crazy.
  • When did you change your fuel filter? Same problem hapened to me. Was the Fuel filter. Unfortunately this is how you find you got some bad fuel. Now I keep a new fulter in my Crd at all times. jdh;-)
  • pvanderhpvanderh Posts: 2
    After trying the easy things I had to take it in. The mechanic found that #1 had very low compression. He went on vacation so I had to take it to another mechanic. He did say that after putting some sort of cleaner in the cyl, in hopes that the valve was just stuck, that the cyl did not seem to me leaking. Possible good news that it is just something wrong with the valve...? I should know more today after the other mechanic can look into it. I will try to post back with the resulting info.
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