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Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • Hello,

    I'm at my wits end. :confuse: Hopefully i can get some advice here.

    Ok I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7l renegade 72000 miles on it. About 1 week ago, It stalled out on me on the freeway doing about 65. i pulled it over and waited about 5 mins and started it again...it started then stalled again about 30yards later. I had it towed. I had a friend of mine come and put his code reader on it and we came to the conclusion that it had something to do with spark. So I began to take off the plugs and coils. I found that 4 of my coils were cracked and one was so bad it was bulging...ok bad plugs and coils..got it. I went and bought all 6 coils and plugs and replaced them. Started it up and it ran for about 10 mins then stalled out again. Now the code read that there was a sensor bad. We couldnt figure out which it was so I had it towed to a mechanic shop. He diagnosed it as the cam and crank sensors and he replaced them for me. He said it still had a small lag on take off but that could be fixed by putting in the correct plugs. Apparently me and my BRILLIANT thought process bought bosch 4-spark plugs (@6bux a pop) and the mechanic suggested regular Champion plugs. so I went and took out a bosch plug and measured it up to a regular champion one. turns out that the champion plug is a little shorter than the ones I put in. so I figured that might be the problem. I raced back to my car and began replacing the plugs. Upon removing the coils, i found that another coil (yes its a new coil) was popped out bulging at the side like the other one was. I attributed this to maybe "bad luck bad part" deal. I went to the parts store and they gave me another new one. I put it in and turned ont he car. It started perfect and ran great!...for the first 10 mins...after that, there was a very small "stutter" in the engine that was intermittent. I didnt think much of it figuring that maybe the engine is just a litle old and may have developed it over time. That was yesterday afternoon. I drove the car across town with my kids and everything in it (thinking my jeep was fixed) and it ran great. Today, i woke up and went to church and ran some errands. the jeep was running fine and still had that minor "stutter" int he idle at the stoplights. but it would take off fine. I didnt think anything of it. I got into a scenario where I had to give it gas so that it would doenshift so I can pass someone. It shifted fine but during the pass, the engine stuttered again. after I [assed, i had t get off the freeway because now the engine was exhibiting signs that it wanted to stall out and die. The check engine light was flashing slowly as I pulled it into the driveway of my parents house (they were closest to where I was at) i had to let it cool down so I left it there and got a ride to my house. My thought is that when it lost power again this time, it felt like it was missing fire on a cylinder which made me think about "what if another coil went bad?" but what are the odds on that? If it is the case, i still need to find out why my coils are going bad? I'm going to have to go and check the coils and plugs (to see what one wasnt firing right). Any suggestions? I bought a main filter for the fuel (for the filter thats on the outside right in front of the gas tank) so i'll be replacing that one.

    need some advice. please let me know.

    thanks guys (and gals) :sick:
  • This same thing happened to me - drove to store - came out - dead!!....try a new battery
  • Cam Shaft and/or Crank Shaft sensores need to be replaced, also as a precation take a can of "trottle body" clearner and douse your throttle body with it. I changed both of my sensors on my liberty and thar car runs like new. Sensores are about $30 bucks each, the "trottle" clearer is only about $10 bucks. Also when you replacing the sensores check the old ones you take out to see if there soaked in oil, That could be the reason your sensores died to begin with. Best of luck.
  • Ok update.

    Got home from work went to where my Jeep was at. Turns out the code was flashing "misfire on cylinder 3" so i swapped the coil of cyl3 with the one on cyl1. I reset the code and let it idle.. sure enough after 5 mins of idle, it registered "misfire on cyl1" So i took one of my old original ignition coils (the onlyone that was in decent condition) and placed it in cyl1. The misfire was not apparent anymore. as it was the misfire was barely noticeable however now it was gone. so my conclusion is that maybe i had 2 bad coils? talk about bad luck. Outman, I saw what you had put in there about the throttlebody cleaner. i'll be doing that once i get paid next (this freakin breakdown sucked me dry just about) im sure that will help with keeping things in shape. I'm going to drive it around a bit and update in about a week (or sooner if theres another issue). Anyone think maybe the pcm is shorting the coils? i guess i'll have to see...if it does, that will be bad coil #3...i must really have super bad luck if thatw as the case! i'll still troll the forum in case anyone has anything else to look out for. I love my jeep...but was contemplating trade in for a 4door truck if it kept breaking on me ;)
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    I, as like most in here have had the same problem with the vehicle staling out. I first came to this site this past weekend and did a little research before panicing. After reading 50 or so posts on the internet about this issue, I came to the conclusion that it may not be sensors but fuel line and vacuum issues. I purchased a fuel line additive to clean injectors for $2.99 and a can of gum cutter spray for $2.49. I began the process of cleaning up the fuel system and air intake system, My goal was to get to the intake manifold, Grabbing a flat head screw driver, I began disassembling the air intake apparatus. Still using the flat head screw drive. I loosened the clamps, loosened the plastic securing bolts on the main intake housing and pulled the main collection housing off the intake manifold. Using the gum cutter. I liberally sprayed the intake flapper while holding it open and was amazed at the amount of filth that was there. Upon closer inspection, as I was beginning to reassemble the parts, I noticed several of the vacuum hoses, connected to this unit, were cracked wide open. Further investigation left me with the conclusion that the hoses (rubber tubes) connecting to the main air intake were all cracked which caused unfiltered air to leak into the fuel combustion chamber ( IE:the dirty air intake flapper). The breakdown of these lines evidently lead to moisture being introduced into the fuel chamber causing the vehicle to run rough and stall out. As a quick fix for now . I used black electricians tape and sealed up the cracks in the hose lines. I will need to order all new lines for the vacuum system. After I taped each line, I re-assembled everything, having to remove the overflow tank for the radiator to get the hoses back on (you'll need a number 10 metric wrench for this, it is held by two (2) nuts to the fire wall). I tightened all the connections again with the flat head screw driver (use a long thin headed one). Next I un-hooked the battery cables, cleaned as needed and re-connected them. This reset the computer and the sensors allowing the motor light on the dash to go out. Knock on wood, it has been running without staling for two days now and it seems to have more power than before. My theory is that these cracks in the hose lines were allowing moisture and dirty air to get into the combustion chamber which messed up the fuel richness causing it not to ignite properly and miss fire hence the sensor failure. If I have any further problems I will post but for now everything is back to normal except for replacing the worn our air hoses.
  • xbeanxxbeanx Posts: 4
    thats really good info to know! i'd also like to point out to be careful once an ignotion coil goes out. In talking to several jeep mechanics (after my incident) it turns out that they go out like dominoes..basically if one goes out, the others are soon to follow. they are very testy when it comes to this.. thats what i'm gathering about the coils as well whoci would explain me getting 2 bad coils in the bunch.

    Knock on wood so far my jeep is running fine.. i'll be checking the hoses as you did this weekend.
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    Ok my theory has a few issues although the cracked hoses were a problem and it seemed to run better afterwards. It stalled again for my wife last evening and she had the heater on. I again unhooked the battery terminal and reconnected it to reset the computer. Everything was back to normal. Today I turned off the heat control and ran it close to 30 miles and no stalling. My next venture is to go with the heater on to see if it is drawing down on the battery. My battery is over two years old and may be getting week. If this is the case, it may have some affect on those sensors malfunctioning and causing a disruption in the ignition chamber. I'm off for a test drive with the heater on to see what happens.
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    Ok finally back from my road test. Had the heater on and boom there it went again. There are a number of things that it could be but have no idea why it stalled only while the heater was on. It has been backfiring. running rough. I left it sit for 15 minutes and it fired right up ran two miles and shut down again. Can't be the battery at this point or it would have been dead an hour ago. It is still cranking. here are possible answers: 1 bad batch of gas 2. fuel filter needs changed. 3 fuel pump is malfunctioning. 4, needs tuned up. Needs to be traded in, I've searched about every place I can think of for an answer. Any suggestion will help at this point. The vehicle is now unreliable.
  • My 2005 Liberty Renegade (manual trans) just started having the same stall/idle issue, same symptoms over the last few days. It's got 61k miles. Day before I'd just finished a 600 mile drive and was using the defrost. I'd left the defrost on when I got out and thought maybe it wore out the battery. Swapped battery and jeep restarted but stalled over and over, especially while turning and braking. It's at the dreaded dealership so I'm seriously following potential solutions and outcomes here. I would really like to hear what happens to your jeep. I absolutely love my jeep and need it back! thanks.
  • A $7 can of throttle body cleaner ought to do it. The Jeep diverts exhaust back through the intake to decrease emissions which clogs up the throttle body with carbon deposits and decreases air flow. Your Jeep probably only stalls @ stop signs and red lights or while slowing down and not on the freeway because it is getting enough air plus has the forward momentum of the engine/transmission. Ours was filthy when we cleaned it. The dealer will tell you that there are all these error codes including "crank" and "camshaft" sensors that they will want to replace for $100's. Try the throttle body cleaner first, $7 is better than a $300 sensor that will just give you the same problem as soon as you drive it out of the service garage, which will just make them keep replacing more.
  • i had similar problems too but mine wasnt with turns or stops but the codes did tell us that it was the camshaft and crankshaft sensor and we bought then and we did it ourselves its really easy...when we took our sensors off the were rusted on.
  • So, I had the same issues: my speedometer was at 0 when going about 70 and the jeep would stall when I was coming to a stop. I just got it back from my mechanic and it's all fixed. Here is the problem: there was no slack in the wire that runs out to the speed sensor at the top of the rear differential. I must've hit a bump that knocked it loose. My mechanic was able to re-route the wires and allow for some slack and the jeep runs like normal now (no stalling and the speedometer works again). If the re-route is not possible, there is a Chrysler repair kit ( part # 05013995aa ) that basically includes some longer wires. Hope this helps!

    (Other things to check: replace the speed sensor itself)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    I was told that the rear differential sensor cable must remain out of reach from the hand brake cables. It's one of the hand brake cables that tears the sensor wires.
  • This Error Code points to an "incorrect 3rd gear ratio" and sure enough the transmission will not shift into 3rd gear - How does one diagnos this further ?
    Does this mean an internal issue or just a linkage problem ?
    Thanks in advance.
  • I have a strange one...

    My Jeep liberty starts fine, no issues there. If it is cold, it will run just fine. Given 10 min or so the problem begins.

    When i pull up to a stop sign, the RPM drops down to its idle level, then will slowly fade until the engine stalls and shuts off. If I am rolling down the road at any speed and let of the the accelerator and just let it cruise, it works just fine. It is only when the vehicle is not moving. Whether it is in Park, Neutral, or Drive doesn't make a difference. Once the vehicle has been running for 10 min or so, it does this every time.

    I took it to a mechanic and they replaced the "Throttle position sensor." This was a fix for approximately a week. I took it back, they said the sensor was bad and replaced it again for free this time. This fix lasted for about 24 hours.

    Now I am back to the same situation. Anyone got anything to help me? :mad:
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    My Jeep started out only dying at stop signs then it died in the same way on the highway going 65+! I had the crank sensor replaced and it worked for awhile then died again, then I had my gas cap replaced and I haven't had the problem in over 7 months.
    Hope that helps!
  • 94K and never had an issue. This morning without warning the engine began to sputter and run roughly. I limped to my ANG unit where I was reporting to weekend duty. Engine will not allow RPM's to exceed 2,000 whether driving or sitting in neutral. I pulled the following OBD diagnostic codes: P0320, P0725 and P0175. I can drive it but no faster than 40 - 45 MPH. At stop it will idle very roughly and acceleration is poor.

    Any ideas????
  • Sorry to bother all of you but I must tell you the problem I'm having and hopefully somebody can help.

    My jeep liberty 2002, 107k miles is having a hard time starting after hours of no usage, sometimes just enough to cool down the car, say, 3-4 hours. The car tries to start and dies immediately, the only way I can make it work is by accelerating to 3k-4k rpms, hold the pedal down for a few seconds, and then let it go.. sometimes it will stall and turn off and I have to keep trying, and sometimes it will stay at idle, after that, if I drive it and turn it off and on again, it will turn on like nothing ever happened, the mechanic changed the MAF sensor already though the computer is not giving out any codes, to the computer the car has nothing wrong and also I took it to another mechanic and told me there was nothing wrong with the car. I'm very afraid it will stall on the road like it's happening to you guys.
  • I've got an 05 Liberty CRD that has stalled three times in the last week--all at the same stoplight. In addition, it frequently has been having a problem maintaining idle RPM when slowing to a stop. Seems to have no relation to warm-up time. No dummy light on. Have added fuel since start of problem. All fuel from usual source. When not experiencing the problem, seems to run fine. After each stall episode, it started readily and ran okay, with no further problems during that trip.

    More details re: specific trips on which engine stalled. Each time, it was on afternoon drive home from work. Pulling up to stop at stoplight approximately 1 mile from workplace, engine stalled at almost exactly same moment that vehicle came to a stop, all three times. Have almost stalled a few other times, but have also pulled up to same light, same circumstances, with no problem.

    No significant repair history for engine problems to speak of. All routine maintenance done per manual.

    I see above mentions of "throttle body" problems, cable routing problems, fuel cap problems, and more. It's NOT the fuel cap, as best I can tell. There are no other issues with faulty speedometer readouts or the like, and I can't imagine why a cable problem would be so specifically intermittent, so to speak.

    I've got an appt at the dealer's service dept. (please pray for me!), but I'd like to have some idea of what the problem is before they charge me an entire Obama stimulus package to (maybe) fix it.

    Any ideas, suggestions, etc. are welcome.

    Thanks
  • Get a new fuel filter. Wix Filters are 1/2 the price your dealer will charge. Find a truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]. Before the new filter is put on your CRD fill it with transmission fluid. The transmission fuel burns hotter than diesel oil and will get the carbon out of the CRD. I carry a WIX fuel filter always in my '05 Liberty Ltd. and have had your problem.
    A bad battery will also cause similar trubble.
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