Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Liberty Electrical and Lighting Problems

2456713

Comments

  • I have a 2003 Liberty. The right blinker is blinking very slowly (about once every 3 seconds). I checked all the bulb contacts for corrosion but they all look good. According to the manual, a slow blinker indicates a low voltage, therefore something must be restricting the current. Anyone have any ideas?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    You could perhaps try this in the dark:
    -Check that all bulbs glow evenly and individually.
    -Ask someone to apply the brakes and repeat the inspection.

    When two adjacent bulbs (or filaments) glow partially, one of them has lost it's ground connection. When an individual bulb/filament (blinker) is slow or stops blinking, it's not pulling enough current usually because of a defective or over heated (melted) contact.
  • Hi,
    We also have a 2002 Liberty with the same problem. It's been doing it for two years. The dealer 'thinks' of things that might fix it but I'm not about to let them replace/charge me for something that they are not sure will fix it. I figure my best solution to date has been to wait until it's a continuous versus intermittent problem. Keep us updated.
  • I have a 2002 Liberty and the lower right side of my cluster is more dim than the rest of my cluster (Temp guage, Speedometer needle, from about 100mph to 120mph on speedometer). I'm trying to figure out what's wrong. I've been told anything from a blown fuse to a blown bulb to a bad cluster. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?
  • Thanks for the help fixed my 2004 liberty fan this weekend. Just wanted to pass on a couple of tips to the next guy. First unscrew the resistor then pull it out and flip it over. There is just enough slack in the wire harness to do this. Now the red clip is visible and you can use a flat putty knife blade to push it out and then remove the wire harness. Second I had a tough time getting the lower resistor screew out with a nut driver, I found it helpfull to remove the plastic cover below the glove box. Two philips screws and it pops right out giving you access to the botom resistor screw. Then I used a small socket wrench to get the lower resistor screw out from under the dash. Thsi was an easy fix. Part cost about ($25 US) and took about 30 to 45 min.
  • Please help. All I'm trying to do is replace a bulb in the tail light of my 2004 Jeep Liberty. I've unscrewed the two screws, but can't seem to wedge the one-piece light case from the jeep. I thought this would be a breeze. We are expecting snow tomorrow night and I would like to take care of this tiny problem before I get stopped and issued a ticket. Any suggestions. :confuse:
  • I just realized I posted a message in the wrong spot. I'll start again: Please help. All I'm trying to do is replace a bulb in the tail light of my 2004 Jeep Liberty. I've unscrewed the two screws, but can't seem to wedge the one-piece light case from the jeep. I thought this would be a breeze. We are expecting snow tomorrow night and I would like to take care of this tiny problem before I get stopped and issued a ticket. Any suggestions.
  • Note - I am NOT an owner but a garage owner in Cairo Egypt which makes it even more difficult to trouble shoot some of these problems.

    2005 Jeep Liberty with less than 5,000 miles which has been through the issues - faulty water pump - replaced. faulty A/C compressor - replaced and then the speedometer quitting completely. Put it on OBD II and indicated speedometer sensor - replaced one sensor - still the same problem and was considering ordering the second sensor from the States to see if this would solve the problem when the owner came up with a new problem.

    Driving after about 1/2 hour - transmission "lurched" slightly then all electrics died and car died. After a few minutes - car would start up again and be good for another 5 minutes of driving - then same problem again.

    Got cat to my garage and just let is sit running. After a period of time - while watching - speedometer would jerk up to 10, 20 30 MPH - then back to 0. Again this would happen until finally car would stop - no electics. After starting (no problem) same thing happened after 5 minutes.

    OBD only indicates P0501 - speed sensor fault.

    Suggestions please - and please don't say take to the dealer as they are non-existant and worthless here.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    You are describing an intermittent fault that can have several origins.

    Try bending and stretching all cables (related to engine management) in the engine compartment and around the steering column after re-inserting all connectors into their sockets. If it's a cabling issue you have a chance to detect it this way. Don't forget the speed sensor (rear differential)and the battery lugs. The ECU does not always keep "ON" the "field connection" of the alternator! This can act as a mask during your investigation.

    After doing this if there is no improvement you may have to look for broken solder joints under the ECU and speedometer connectors. Good luck :)
  • grousseagroussea Posts: 2
    Since the beginning of winter (of course :)) the bottom (floor) vent doesn't work anymore. The ventilation work perfectly (position 1 to 4) and I get plenty of air. The problem is that if I put the selector on bottom position (or bottom and front) the air will get out only through the defrost vent (or defrost and front) but nothing at the bottom...which is kind of cold here with -25C.

    Any idea if there is a fuse somewhere that control that or else?

    Thanks
    Guy
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Hi Guy,
    The flaps of the ventilation system are moved by a "vacuum logic" system. There could be something stuck in the ventilation housing or you could have a pinched tube somewhere.

    The heater control panel of the console carries this rotary 'vacuum / vent' distributor where 6 tubes are connected. The blowing of air towards the floor is accomplished by the second and third tubes coming from the bottom of the control. These tubes are color coded BLUE and YELLOW.

    For info:
    The GREEN tube is used for the recirculation flap,
    The BLACK tube for vacuum connection,
    The BROWN for 'Panel-Door' full,
    The BLUE for 'Floor / Defrost Floor',
    The YELLOW for 'Floor / Defrost Floor' mid position,
    The RED for 'Panel-Door' mid.
  • grousseagroussea Posts: 2
    Thanks you Caribou1 for the reply :)

    Do you know any way to access easily that part of the console? I would like to spend some time this week-end to look into this problem but I fear that accessing that (behing the console) will be a nightmare...

    Guy
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    I've not done this, but read in the repair manual that you have a Phillips head screw in the recess of the console where you can leave sunglasses. Then the cover plate (decor) comes off and you access the heater control from the front. There are again 4 screws in the corners that allow you to pull towards the cabin this element. You will know more by monday next week :shades:
  • angel63angel63 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Jeep Libery Limited and I just bought the module for the daytime running lights to place in the fuse box. Does anyone know if I need a special relay for this or new headlights to go with this module? I have looked at a lot of wb sites and I can't figure this one out. If anyone has ever tried to replace this, can you let me know about the headlights? :blush: Thank! Angie
  • autotraxautotrax Posts: 1
    Our Jeep Liberty just had this same problem. A fuse blew and now the interior lights and radio do not work. Any replacement fuses blow immediately. Did you find out what was caused the fuse to blow?
  • piper10piper10 Posts: 8
    Hi everyone.I just purchased a 04 limited liberty.I cant get power at the front power outlet/cigar lighter.I checked the fuses and they are ok.I asked the guy I bought it from and he said they used it alot and it worked fine.Any ideas ??Am I missing something ? I tried key on and off.The manual says it should be hot all the time but there isnt any power there.I did check the outlet and fuses with a meter.I dont want to start tearing the dash apart till I am sure I have to.
    Thanks
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    There are several types of connectors that have a step (obstacle) just behind the central "hot wire". There are also power outlets providing a peripheral contact to the cigar lighter by a set of spring fingers. I would try a cigar lighter first by keeping it pressed. These fingers could be squashed 'open'.
  • tcwsrtcwsr Posts: 1
    I see where this question had been asked before in Feb 2007, but I did not see any answer. I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a bad Tailight Bulb. I can not get the one piece Exterior Tailight Lens off the Vehicle. If you remove the two screws on the Left side, the Lens will not unhinge from the Right Side. Is there a Secret to get to the Bulb? One would think that replacing a Bulb shouldn't call for a Trip to the Dealer.
    Appreciate any Advice.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    The plastic cover slides out in the perpendicular plane of the screws. On mine, all 4 bulbs are the same, so you can "loose" a backup or fog light to "recover" a stop or blinker light.
  • mlb2006mlb2006 Posts: 3
    My 2002 Liberty Sport has started losing power to the gauges and all the dash board lights then quickly turning back on, all while I'm driving. This will happen many times while I drive my 30 mile commute home.
    While I'm driving suddenly all of the dash lights, the a/c control lights, and the shifter lights will turn off (also the gauges will turn off with the needles falling down)and then flick back on. Basically, the dash board is acting as if I turned the car off(lights off, gauges off) and then back on with all of the indicator lights(the oil light, seat belt light, brake light, etc.) turning on and then turn off one by one. All this is happening while I'm driving.
    Also, whatever is going on is effecting my tripometer and odometer. When the dashboard flicks off then back on the tripometer starts over at 3.5 miles and my odometer doesn't gain any miles.
    Any thoughts or suggestions what it might be?
  • blkdipblkdip Posts: 1
    I just recently had to replace passengerside rear brake ligt. I felt like you did. You will need a small slotted screwdriver. Run along the length of lens cover vertically(cover is held on by suction w/ male-female )pull against cover and body of vehicle apply slight pressure to bring up the lens cover. Apply pressure evenly to upper and lower part of lens cover. Once the male member starts to slide out of the female member you'll be able to see better. Please this is not sexual just the best description i can give you tha best describes how lens cover is held on.
  • boredbored Posts: 300
    Hmm, well the odometer dying may be a good thing. Imagine trying to sell your Liberty in the future...

    "2002 Liberty Sport Clean LOW MILES!!!!"
    :) :P ;)

    OK, seriously. Have you had it since new? Check the fuses for the dash lights, your owners manual should state which one to check. Also... if you're on your original battery, it is probably time to change it. Libertys do very weird things when the battery is dying.... and this just happens to be one of those weird things.
  • mlb2006mlb2006 Posts: 3
    Yeah, no complaints about the odometer not working, but I would like to be able to know when I'm almost out of gas and how fast I'm going. ;)
    I've only had the car a little less then a year, I bought it from a wholesale dealer.
    I'll check the fuses and see if they need replacing, the battery though is less then 6 months old.

    This problem seems to happen more when I have my headlights on. Think there's any connections?
  • boredbored Posts: 300
    Have your alternator and battery checked, definitely. Go to any autozone, they can do it, I think for free.
  • jwmayjwmay Posts: 1
    I was driving home on a 2 hour trip .. all of a sudden my break light came on, cruse controll stoped working, speedomiter stoped working and odomiter stoped. I called my mechanic and was gunna bring in the next day but as quickly as it happened it was gone. It comes and goes every once in a while. my mechanic tells me it could be a loose wire from a harnis to the computer goin bad any ideas?
  • madrockmadrock Posts: 2
    Hi, I am new to this forum, and I apologize in advance if this question has been asked before. I tried searching for it, but didn't have any luck.

    I bought a 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport for my wife about 2 weeks ago. Everything has been great thus far (other than the stained seat problem). As I was going to drive it last night, I noticed that the instrument panel would not light up when I turned on the parking light and/or head light. I thought it may have been a blown fuse, but I could not figure out which fuse it was from the owner's manual. The closest ones I could find where #13 and #34, and both checked out okay. I also tried adjusting the interior light lever but it was to no avail. All other interior lights work just fine.

    The only change I have made is the aftermarket CD player I installed last week. I don't know if these two correlate because I have not had to use my head lights since I installed the CD player. Since this all occurred late last night, I have not had time to troubleshoot any further. I will attempt to backtrack my steps by removing the CD player and placing the factory unit back in, and then manually pull all the fuses to check them when I get home from work.

    If someone has experienced this before and could spare me all this trouble, I would greatly appreciate it. I called the dealership for some possible pointers, but they just want me to bring it in. BLAH.
  • neons8neons8 Posts: 1
    2002 liberty the dash lights all of them keep going on and off while I'm driving. It also does it it if I just turn the key to on. it my take a minute on two then it just keeps doing it. I replaced the ignition switch and jigged wires can't find it. Please help

    neons8
    In God we trust
  • pvan1pvan1 Posts: 3
    The fan blower(any speed setting such as # 1-3) cuts out after driving about a mile or two in the morning then comes back on after about 3-4minutes and runs fine. After a stop, fan motor does not run for 3-4 minutes then kicks back on. I have replaced resistor but no change. Could this be a problem with the relay located in the Power Distribution Box in front of the battery?
  • I have a '05 Liberty and can't find any reference to getting the headlights to come on automatically in the daytime ,or what some manufacturers call 75%.
    Does anyone know if it has the capabilities to do this? And if so ,how?
    Thanx in advance
Sign In or Register to comment.