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Mazda5 Engine Issues

PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
Have a question or problem uner the hood of your Mazda5? This is the place to discuss it and work out a solution.


Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles



  • partsguy1partsguy1 Posts: 19
    In the owners manual, it says to use 5W20 motor oil for all changes.

    I am at the stage of changing my oil and I want to put in Mobil 1. It is cheaper to buy 5W30 than 5W20.

    Could I use the 5W30 in place of the 5W20?
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    I would use what Mazda recommends until my vehicle has at lest 5000 miles on it, then ask about the Mobil 1. The lower vicosity is due to the engine being NEW. Any other oil could damage the engine.

  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    Any other oil could damage the engine.

    Not likely, especially if it is Mobil 1 5W30.

    The lower viscosity stuff is used for emissions reductions, but is actually poorer for protecting the engine vs 5W30.

  • ma3xma3x Posts: 7
    I just purchased a new 2006 Mazda5 Sport auto with 16 miles on it. I drove the car around town for about 20 miles gently, then I took in on a 85 miles one way highway trip, driving at ~80mph @3500rpm for about 45-60 minutes, then, drove it around town again. On the way back I did about 80mph for 30 min, then hit traffic for 20 min, then 20 min cruising at ~80mph again. Now the car has about 380 miles on it. My question is how much damage have I done to the engine. I know the manual states not to maintain one constant speed for a long period of time for the break-in period. What is a "long period of time" 10, 30, 50 minutes ? I searched the net and read different new engine break-in articles, including the motoman' article, but none specify how long is a "long period of time". Any input would be appreciated...tks :(
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    "A long period of time" is what you were doing, but I doubt you did any damage if the engine sounds the same. Normally, you wouldn't drive a new car at 80mph at 3500rpm either for a long distance.

    You should follow the break-in instructions for the first 600 miles: No fast starts, i.e. flooring it; No hard braking such as running up behind traffic already stopped at traffic lights and slamming on the brakes; if you have a manual tranny don't down-shift to reduce speed, use the brakes with moderate pressure and allow the car enough distance to stop; don't accellerate above 3500rpm for the first 600 miles; and up to 1000 miles increase rpms slowly.

    In other words don't drive it like you stole it and/or it already has 5000 miles on it.

    The engine is tight (green) and needs time to break-in. What you are doing the first 1000 miles is going easy on it until the rings seat properly to avoid an "oil burner" later on. Hard braking and downshifting with the tranny manually puts a lot of strain on the engine. Fast take-offs does the same thing and driving for long periods at one speed doesn't allow the engine to run-in at a wide range of rpms. It won't run smoothly when you do need higher rpms.

    Hope this helps.

  • ma3xma3x Posts: 7
    Thanks for your input fowler3. You mentioned "going easy on it for the first 1k mile to avoid an "oil burner" later on". For the sake of argument, if there has been any damage to the engine, when usually will you see it starting to burn oil ? is it after 50k, 75k miles ?
    Also is there a way to check if there has been damage to the engine, or only time will tell ? I didn't notice any difference in engine sound yet, I suppose that is a good thing ?
  • I wouldn't worry about any damage to the engine. IF it breaks, warranty will take care of it.

    You can find numerous articles on the net related to break-in periods. I would side with being a little harder on the engine rather than softer. IF something is going to break, it will break whether you go soft or hard.

    I changed my oil at 6500 KM and went with Mobil 1. This should reduce any wear and tear on the engine, now that it is broken in.
  • ma3xma3x Posts: 7
    Thanks for your input partsguy1. Feeling a little less worried already :) . Here in FLorida, most of the driving is done on the highways, so one way or another you must keep with the traffic. Taking the side streets is a nightmare sometimes, taking you maybe 1 hour to get from A to B instead for 15-20 min highway ride. As far as the oil, the dealer provided me with the first oil+filter change for free, so I'll most likely go with them, and after that 19.95 for life of the car...that's a decent deal I would think.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    You still don't need to drive 80+ to "keep up with traffic." If people are driving over 80, then don't get in the fast lane and simply let the racers pass you on the left.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    I agree with jaxs1, stay in the right lane most of the time until you get more mileage on your MZ5. I have no idea when a car starts to burn oil, it can also start to use more oil than usual, which isn't good either. Check your oil frequently, it shoudn't be low, or at least not a quart below the full mark. Always check it before running the engine, when it is cold.

    The poster who said, "If it breaks the warrenty will cover it." forgets one important thing -- the *Black Box*, which comes on most new cars. The Black Box records the engines speed and other info before and following an accident and before something happens to the engine. If the manufacturer discovers the car was being driven "hard" during break-in they can refuse to repair it.

    And, NO, the Black Box can not be disabled. It is so tightly intigrated with the safety equipment and on-board computer it can't be hacked.

    Isn't it much easier to just do the break-in and be done with it?

  • ma3xma3x Posts: 7
    Well thanks for your inputs guys. What can I say, what's done is done and can't be undone now :( . I like this car and I'll keep it in the right lane until the 600 miles beak-in, then drive it normal (not hard just normal). I'll see from now on how my MZ5 will perform. If it starts giving mechanical problems, I'll just might have to trade it in sooner or later. The new 2007 Honda CR-V kinda caught my attention....
  • Big Brother Black box..... I guess anything is possible.

    If there was an accident and the Police wanted the engine management information, do you think the manufacturers would install a disc drive to record the last 24 hours or the last 24 months. I would side the with the shorter period of 24 hours (if that). Anything longer would add cost and deliver little value given the objective of providing the Speed, traction, RPM's etc prior to the (sudden)accident.

    I don't know how long the black box records info for.

    Can anyone out there provide some info on the Black Box?
  • kw_dakw_da Posts: 73

    Google is your friend ;) - see black box. The article says "but due to a digital setup that is more like a tape loop that constantly runs, it is able to record the last few seconds before a crash, capturing information regarding vehicle speed, braking severity, the direction of skid, etc, helping analysts reconstruct the crash."

    So it can tell why you died, but not how badly you mistreated the engine. Also your manual should have some information according to the article, but I haven't checked ours yet.

  • dr_whodr_who Posts: 8
    I have a 2007 Mazda 5 Sport 5 speed manual (that, in general, I am very happy with) and have experienced the engine stumble mentioned elsewhere in this forum. It is on my to-do list to go get the issue addressed.

    I have also experienced cold acceleration issues that may be unrelated to the engine stumble TSB. It feels to me like I am driving a carbureted car instead of a fuel-injected car for about the first five minutes after starting the car when the engine is not hot. Acceleration is rough and slow at low RPMs and then abruptly kicks in smoother and more powerful (feels like a turbo kicking in after winding up) at around ~3000 RPM. This is a problem in both winter and summer driving. Once the engine is warmed up, the acceleration problem goes away.

    Has anyone else experienced these cold acceleration issues? Is there a known fix? Does having the engine stumble TSB fix (reprogramming the PCM) done on the car also fix this issue?
  • gschulzgschulz Posts: 17
    Might the lighter weight 5W/20 also be for better fuel economy, with the tight tolerances in the todays engine could it also be that is why they recommend lighter weight oil and still have proper lubrication? Anybody know for sure?
  • gschulzgschulz Posts: 17
    Might the lighter weight 5W/20 also be for better fuel economy, with the tight tolerances in the todays engine could it also be that is why they recommend lighter weight oil and still have proper lubrication? Anybody know?
  • Can you describe the symptoms that you experienced with the engine stumble. I have been dealing with the same issues and I have been trying to get the local Mazda dealer to fix it for the same symptom but they refuse to believe me, or find a solution to the problem. I'm so ticked!
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    All newer cars have it, but it's much simpler then thought to be. It does record in a loop of... about 6 minutes. It keeps the highest RPM, fastest speed, average fuel consumption etc. It basically provides a statistical history of the car, not a play by play life.
    The break-in goal is to allow the formation of oil film on all the parts rubbing together.
    Since on new engines, the oil film is not permanent on all parts (and their entire surfaces) it is recommended that strain would not be put on - so the parts lacking an oil film would not rub very hard and exhibit premature wear.
    BUT... at different RPM, some parts come in contact with other at different points of their surfaces. Ex: valve ends will put pressure on a different part of a cam at different speeds; pistons will travel a few microns more at higher RPM. That is why running the engine through all its regimes is very important.
    Don't be afraid to spin your engine up to the red line (it's designed to go there), just do not put load on it.
    There are cases when damage has been observed on the top ring on the piston, because during the break-in period the engine was not rev’d up and used in the same manner as it was after that. I.E. if will rev the engine to 5k only after the break in, your top ring will suddenly encounter a part of the cylinder that does not have the "mirror" formed (more or less like running on sand paper).
    "If gonna race it, race it now, just not too hard" an old mechanic said once.
  • mazdagirl1mazdagirl1 Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    Hey techtyler... did you ever get the problem resolved? I have the same problem with my 2006 M5. I also tried to explain to the dealership service dept. but they don't know what I am talking about. I am out of warranty now so I just deal with it, but was wondering if yours ever got fixed. I also notice that my engine sounds rough (like a pinging) when its cold but then once the engine warms up completely then its gone. Also in cold weather (just started last week) there is a creaking sound either coming from dashboard area or where the winshield meets the car at the top. Sounds like when you rub styrofoam egg carton together... its pretty loud and annoying. Figures that this started a week after I bought out my lease and out of warranty! ugh
  • Hey,

    I'm wondering if any of you are experiencing a loud radiator fan that always seems to be running. Granted, when the engine is cold, it doesn't run. But, once you've been driving for like 15 to 20 minutes, the radiator fan turns on and it's pretty loud! The summer months aren't here yet and the days have not gotten that warm for the fan to be running constantly AND that loud. Also, it doesn't shut off until I turn the engine off.

    My 5 never exhibited this before, and I'm wondering if it's normal or if it's something I need to take it to Mazda for. Please advise. Thanks!
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