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Mazda5 Engine Issues



  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    One more item that will bring the check engine light on is gas (the liquid) in the carbon filter tank for the "gas tank". That tank is to trap gas vapors however, if you really top off the gas tank and over fill it the gas (liquid) will run over and into the carbon holding tank and ruin it and cause the check engine light to come on. So be careful on how full you fill the gas tank.

  • kivokivo Posts: 64
    I have a 2008 with very low mileage, but I don't have this problem. I would take it in to the dealer - sounds like a bad fan motor.
  • r2rnotr2rnot Posts: 2
    Around 7K my 5 started knocking on cold start; sounded like a stuck valve, noise seemed high in the head vs block. Gradually diminishes w warmup. Dealer checked, said no problem, they all do that. Right. I returned at about 18K, same complaint. Dealer performed "top end cleaning" that seemed to alleviate but problem has returned at 20K. Using only major brand gas; can get 32 mpg at 65. Anyone experiencing this cold knock?
  • hi i got a 2003 mazda protege 5 and 98,000 miles and when i try and put it in drive nothing happens when i move the gears feels like it isnt catching anything the link is good checked that the car starts up fine just doesnt move if i keep moving it will go in reverse just not drive when i was driving at the stop light it made a noise the shifter moved itself from drive to n and it wouldnt move someone please help me
  • cpc42cpc42 Posts: 1
    i am having engine issues with my Mazda 5 (2008). Engine fail @ 40k. I am in the powertrain warranty period and they refuse to fix it. I have oil change reciepts and they say there are not enough. We took very good care of this car and I there was no warning to check engine or low oil light, although the technicians are saying there was no oil in the vehicle when I brought it to them!! Any thoughts
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,141
    There are too many questions to be answered. Did the oil leak out, burn up, or did the engine throw a rod and the oil subsequently fell out? Have you only been to the dealer with this? Did you call corporate?

    If the car ran out of oil and you drove it that way, resulting in its demise ... then it is pretty much your fault. You can't rely on a car to tell you something is wrong. It is a piece of machinery and your obligation to keep a close eye on it. Checking your oil AT LEAST once a week is imperative.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • r2rnotr2rnot Posts: 2
    I agree w gbrozen's Part 1-- we need more info; you need to lean on dealer svc mgr, elevate to region, & corporate. But Part 2, I disagree. Nobody should have to ck oil weekly on a 40K engine, lacking any hard driving or other problem sign; maybe every 1000 miles. And since most drivers won't, a good rule is just watch your garage floor. Over time you'll recognize what's fresh oil vs old (or put down a newspaper) and if you're seeing too many new drips, THEN keep an eye on the dipstick AND have someone find the leak.

    More generally: the Mazda 5 oil filter cartridge turns to a very positive stop, versus the quarter-turn range that all techs should know to tighten conventional oil filters. If the cartridge O-ring was not replaced right, there will be a major leak in a short time; also possibly the cartridge drain plug and its O-ring could be replaced wrong. But either case would definitely show oil on the floor in a hurry, or even in a parking space you've just left.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Unfortunately Mazda engines do turn into buzz boxes fast. There is nothing wrong with them, just not refined. You'll see the RPM higher than normal when cold. This does not happen anymore with other brands (ex: Ford) which have much better engine control.
    Mazda sides on the side of simplicity.

    What throws me off is the fact that the dealer said it cleaned the engine the noise was gone for a little while. It sounds like they added some additive or you are right, you do have sticky something. I would try to identify what's noisy with a piece of wood placed on the engine (the broom stick trick).
  • HI All--

    It is my first mazda5, and I am noticing something I would like to share with you. I was checking the engine oil (cold engine), and the dipstick showed oil at minimum. I checked again, and the oil barely made the bottom of the dipstick wet. It seems to be inconsistent with the readings I would expect. It has 4000 miles on it and this car has not been to dealership since we bought it.

    Just wanted to know if I need to be alarmed about it. Also, of lately, after turning off the engine, I hear a humming sound of a motor for 2-3 seconds.

    Please share your thoughts.

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I would not worry about the oil (I mean freak out), but take it to dealer ASAP. The oil may have been low to begin with. You are going to have to worry after the oil change....
    Some will point out to the way the engine has been broken in, but I would not.
    With electric motor sound, I don't hear one in mine, but try to figure out where is it coming from: under the passenger seat in the second raw? Then that's your fuel pump. From the dash - ventilation doors... and that's all I have. Ask the dealer and let us know!

  • Thanks, Victor, I was hoping that since the 2012 has a new engine, it may not have been documented / tested that well -- and I could be wrong here. I am not sure how people bought Mazda 2012 in US and how many of those check their engine oil regularly ... one person pointed this out (but on the UK forum, which I believe is European version of Mazda 2012). I will take it to the dealer and have it checked.

    The motor sound comes from the engine block ...

  • Hey Vicenac, what happen with the oil after you have changed it? Was it low again after few milage? What did the dealer said?

    I have a new Mazda5 2012, and I have the same situation: oil is very low with about 5000 miles on it, I will go to dealer this week but would like to know what happened to you.

  • Hey devarshi, what happen with the oil after you have changed it? Was it low again after few milage? What did the dealer said?

    I have a new Mazda5 2012, and I have the same situation: oil is very low with about 5000 miles on it, I will go to dealer this week but would like to know what happened to you.

  • :mad: My two-year old 2009 Mazda5 (Sport, MT) doesn't start this morning. After a Mazda dealer checked it, I was told the engine was flooded and the computer showed that "gas pedal depressed when starting".

    I know for sure that I didn't step on the gas pedal. So I checked the internet and found a lot of discussions about the flooding problem in RX-8, e.g., at

    According to it, if the car started cold and turn off before the engine warms up, the engine could be flooded. I happended to have such a start two days ago to run my air pump for a wheel barrow. I didn't use my car after that until this morning.

    If this is the root cause, I must say I am very shocked. With my other cars in the past, I have had such cold start a lot of times, and never had a problem.

    Did anyone experience a similar incident? Thanks a lot.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I do a lot of those. I live close to my work (less then a mile) and sometimes the engine does not get the chance to warm up. Even more, we can not leave the car on the street, but also cannot park to early (lots of rules), so often we start the car cold around 9 PM and move it a few yards into the parking lot and turn it off before the engine lowers its RPM. Never a problem, unless you count a few times when it seemed that I let go of the key too soon and the engine needed a bit more cranking the second time. Those times it does behave like flooded but it does start.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I got a CEL on Friday night. I just got around to check it with my MATCO code reader and I got a P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Engine Operation. Looked it up online seems to be a bad thermostat. I had it replaced here at work (dealership) with a Motorcraft #RT-1193 thermostat and 1 jug of Mazda FL-22 coolant, cleared the code and we will see if the code comes back. If it doesn't then we are cool (pun intended). If not I will replace the coolant temp sensor, but based on popular posts it seems that the culprit for this code is a thermostat. :)
  • I could have written your posting; I just had exactly the same situation occur on our 2008 Mazda5 (but at 61k - 1,000 miles over the warranty). No warning lights. Nothing; just total engine failure with an explanation that the car had no oil when checking the dipstick. It was just unbelieveable to us.

    Can you tell me what the outcome was in your situation? Did Mazda pick up the bill and what was the repair/cost?
  • The dealer changed it, and after they changed the oil, it seems to give a proper reading. I would suggest if the oil level is bothering you, better get it changed. That way any issues, if any, will be addressed.
    Since I have a manual, another question: Did anyone notice mazda5's extra sensitive clutch? I mean, if you don't give a set throttle, it will just surge ahead. Have not driven other manual cars in US before, but do other cars have such issues? thanks.
  • I noticed the same thing on mine. At 4000 miles there was barely any oil on the dipstick. On my last new car it had the same problem until the engine was broke in. Also mine make that weird whine noise after the engine shuts down.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Hello everybody,
    I have a few issues with my engine I'd like some opinions on:

    My 2010 has 45 000 miles. It seems to eat more gas. In the morning, when it's cold, there is a strong gas smell around the car (very rich) and also if accelerated hard, it wants to stop before it gets going.
    After warming up, it seems to knock when accelerating lightly and I saw black smoke coming out of the tail (a few inches long jet) when accelerated hard (I was outside the car watching my wife drive away).
    To me it seems that the timing is off, but I thought these engines are adjusted by the computer so they cannot be advanced or retarded. Am I wrong?
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