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Toyota Camry Hybrid Tire/Wheel Questions

PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,068
edited September 30 in Toyota
Discuss TCH tire and wheel issues here.

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  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    "Also just for the record, if anyone wonders, I keep all 4 tires at 35.5PSI cold (recommended is 32psi)."

    You accept the risk that your insurance carrier will most likelt deny coverage in the event of an accident :confuse:
  • I hardly think an insurer would deny a claim over 35 psi in the tires. (Although they would like to.)

    Keep in mind 32 is recommended by the manufacturer, but the max inflation pressure on the tire is probably 45 or 50 psi. (It's printed on the sidewall.)

    A few extra psi, as long as under the max inflation pressure, is nothing.
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    Not only can they, the often do.

    Over-inflated tires, where they suspect the increased pressure, along with the load inside the car, coupled with driving conditions, is used every day, and in hundreds of lawsuits, to deny coverage. And they are quite successful in doing so.

    No matter what it says on the tire, for they are indeed used for many different vehicles, owners are always instructed to use the inflation posted on the plate located inside the drivers door frame.

    I know you will never be convinced, and if you believe it is better suited for you to increase the pressure, go for it. If you don't believe me, ask Toyota, Ford, GM. All will tell you the proper inflation is what THEY say, not the side of the tire. ;)
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    No matter what it says on the tire

    Absolutely! The tire is designed for many applications for cars of various weights. The maximum pressure on the tire is just that, a limit before the tire will fail. It has nothing to do with the safe design pressure for the specific vehicle.
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    To be fair, this is a matter my old man used to curse about.....so for 30 years that I am aware of, people have taken their cue (falsely) from what is printed on the tire, and not the owners booklet, or vehicle sticker, so JPMiller isn't alone.

    I have read over the years many a horror story of mayhem resulting from tire failure, side wall failure more specifically, resulting from owners changing the inflation pressure by as little as 5 pounds cold. On a hot day, at even moderate speed, rounding a corner can have terrible consequences. :sick:
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    >>Not only can they, the often do.

    I will quickly believe your assertion when you provide some documentation.

    No doubt, significant tire over inflation is potentially dangerous. Still, the burden of proof would be on any insurer seeking to deny a claim based on over inflation.

    The recommended inflation pressure is a compromise, depending on vehicle load, average speed, and road conditions. My '92 Camry, for instance, recommended 26 lbs for normal urban driving and 32 lbs for primarily freeway driving, or when the car was carrying more weight.

    And in the most famous cases of tire failure--Ford Explorers--while tire under inflation was a significant cause of the failure, the tire maker and manufacturer received most of the blame, and liability.

    I doubt tire over inflation of 2-3 lbs changes a car's handling characteristics enough to matter much, but I will be persuaded by any facts to the contrary.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    I have 90,000 miles on a Ford Explorer. I did do research on the tires (afraid for my safety) and I found that Firestone and Ford compromised and determined that safe tire pressure would be 30 psig. I believe Ford wanted it lower and Firestone balked. My opinion is that the Ford had mnore to do with most wrecks than the tires, but that's just my experience and opinion. While underinflation can cause tire failure, high pressure (as little as 34 psig) on the 01 Ford Explorer I drive for work absolutely makes the car so twitchy that it's scary at interstate speeds.

    Granted the TCH will not get twichy at 40 psig like an SUV. But the contact patch of the tire to road will be diminished and if you live in an area with hills and rain I would think twice before going to extreems on high tire pressure.

    After 13,700 miles the difference in 39.5 mpg (what I get) and possibly 41 mpg (might get with overinflation_debatable) I would have saved less than $35. Not worth it.
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    Ok, since I started the discussion under title "What an awesome vehicle the 2007 TCH is... with great MPG.... ", I take responsibility and have come to conclusion that the best way to care for the tires is to absolutely follow the vehicle's manufacturer suggested tire pressure. The reason of keeping my tires 3 psi above normal was actually more of an assurance that my TPMS is functioning correctly after the toyota dealership had 2 times to adjust/reprogram the 7 digit ID code (valve transmitter) into ECU (loooong story) and got distracted and let the uneven air pressure the dealership had put into my tires giving assurance to myself that the TPMS warning light is fixed... no more -- all my 4 tires are back to 33 psi and with the cold weather it will be down to 32 psi.

    Btw, I have emphasized to follow the correct tire pressure under "Toyota Camry Hybrid Driving Tips & Tricks" discussion title in post# 67.

    Also, after lowering the tire pressure I felt better handling of my 2007 TCH on the road and especially in the rain.... what a truly awesome vehicle the 2007 TCH is...
    -- happy HYBRID TCH driving -- ;)
  • When cars are transported, do you know what pressure the manufacturer puts in the cars before they are loaded into the trucks?

    I'll give you a hint - it's above 90 psi.
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    Whatever... :shades:

    That has absolutely NOTHING to do with normal operation of a car, by a consumer, on roadways.

    Period.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    "When cars are transported, do you know what pressure the manufacturer puts in the cars before they are loaded into the trucks?

    I'll give you a hint - it's above 90 psi."

    Would you care to guess how fast and how far the cars are diven at that PSI?

    Hint - it's less than 5 MPH, for about 100 yards.
  • acco20acco20 Posts: 208
    Tires ARE overinflated for transport, to protect from tire "flat spots" and probably several other good reasons. I do not know where you get the information that the presure is set at 90 psi. I doubt that is accurate. Probably closser to 45 or 50. IMHO.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    "doubt that is accurate. Probably closser to 45 or 50. IMHO."

    90 PSI isn't my number. I think it is 45 PSI. I was responding to a post... :D
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    Is anyone running without the TPMS system? If so can you reset the system (to "0") and keep the warning light off?

    What actually happens if you run without the sensors.

    I want to runs winter wheel / tire setup but I don't want to switch the TPMS's from wheel to wheel each season.
  • gampagampa Posts: 78
    I'm glad you brought up the question.
    I will probably look into doing the same thing next year.

    On Pg 172 of the manual

    "The system will be disabled in the following conditions"...
    *If the tires not equipped with tire pressure warning valves and transmitters are used.

    It appears that "When the condition becomes normal, the system will work properly.

    For more info... contact the people at an online store, such as tirerack.com, and they should have an answer for you.

    Gampa
  • I've got a trip coming up and I'd like some extra trunk space. Has anyone ever increased trunk space by removing the spare and adding a can of fix-a-flat and a AAA card? This is something Miata owners frequently do and I was wondering if there's a downside of doing it with the TCH. I think I've heard the Prius doesn't even have a spare.

    Thoughts?
  • larsblarsb Posts: 8,204
    Actually, its the HAH that is sans spare.

    That fix-a-flat and the AAA card would work fine if it's no problem for you to wait a couple of hours to get towed and then worry about finding a tire store open at zero dark thirty in the middle of Timbukthree in the event you have a blowout or a ruined tire for whatever reason.

    Personally, I'd rather pack less crapola and keep my spare tire.....
  • brudoffbrudoff Posts: 7
    Anyone out there move up to 17" tires, if so how did they affect ride and FE
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    I noticed a new thread on the "other" forum about tires cupping and making noise. It was mentioned that mis-alignment is not an warranty issue for the tires. That may be so for the specific case where the guy has 19000 miles on his tires and has never rotated them. I had bad experiences with tires and alignment on my 2003 350Z that caused me to HATE that car. Almost had the same issue on the TCH. Here's what I have noticed and observed.

    1) My tires have always been rotated at 5000 miles.
    2) My tires were beginning to cup due to misalignment but the "idiots" that rotated my tires did not mention this
    3) When I noticed it I was still under 10,000 miles and brought it to the dealers attention. By showing him the cupping on the rear tires (occurred when they were on the front with less than 5000 miles) I was able to demonstrate that it was misaligned from the factory and realignment was then performend under the warranty.
    4) By doing it early I was able to live with the mild cupping for the life of the tires.
    5) Without rotation, cupping will only get worse and possibly unbearable. However your rear tires may last through another set of front tires. (I prefer even tread on all 4 and replace them as a set)
    6) Cupping, when extreem (like my Z Car) can cause very loud noises and eventually is quiet noticable even in the feel.
    7)The Bridgestones suck. With one alignment and rotation at 5000 miles mine were absolutely worn (evenly) at 23,000 miles. However I was in a tires for life program (that's why I did the rotations and annual alignement)and the dealer put the same tires back on. I can't complain since they are free, but it would save them money to have put something else on as I'll be back next year wanting another set.

    All of you with a TCH, at least the ones from Japan need to inspect your tires early and frequently for misaignment problems. It's easily fixed and you don't want to have to live with noisy tires until they wear out. Actually that's my advise for any of you with any car. Don't count on the mechanic to tell you these things. Running your hand lightly over the tread can easily detect any feathering or cupping that is starting. Catch it early and it's not a problem.
  • Our above car has 20K miles on it. the rear tires are wearing out very quickly!!! Our mechanic is wondering if the car is just too heavy in the [non-permissible content removed] since it is a hybred. Any others out there with similar problems?
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    This is still a FWD car and I don't think the batteries would add that much weight to cause this problem. Are you rotating at 5000 mile intervals? If you have the bridgestones then significant weat at 20,000 for rotated tires is about where mine were going bare
  • ravigravig Posts: 1
    I have ~30k on my TCH and my tires are almost bald. I was told by the dealer service technician that because of the battery weight, the tires on TCH wear out faster.disappointing.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    Sorry, but I can't buy that explaination. They just don't weight that much.
  • Sorry, if this has been posted somewhere already but my quick search didn't get a hit. So, I'll appreciate if you could recommend any good tires to use .... I am definitely NOT going to buy a Bridgestone...it was a bad choice by Toyota....I'm disappointed like others on the list. At close to $175 a piece, they should take you well past 35K miles..I think...I must admit it's a layman's guess...actually probably more of a wish :)

    I'm suffering from TCH early-tire-baldness syndrome too. Followed tire-rotation at 5K advice....although I missed the alignment "warranty" limit (at under 10K) and had to pay for it at ~20K miles....it was OFF...Toyota mechanic said not by a whole lot but I'm not sure...these were the readings on the report:
    ================
    Front Left
    -0.13 degrees

    Front Right
    -0.15 degrees
    Total Toe: 0.03 degrees

    Rear Left
    0.30 degrees

    Rear Right
    0.28 degrees

    Total Toe: 0.58 degrees
    ========================

    Anyway....what tires should I use for this car? .... I was thinking Dunlop or Michelin although on my little Acura I have used Yokohama with no complaints for the last two tire changes (~5 years)...I think that is a good tire for around a $100.00.

    Thanks for any recommendations.
  • plknjplknj Posts: 121
    I have been riding on Michelin's that came with the car... they have worked out great. What I would do is go to tirerack.com and read the customer reviews based on the area you live. It's a really good site with great prices.

    My UPS guy said that he even delivers tires from them to auto stores. Beware, if you do order from them expect the tires within 48 hours... their service will blow your mind. Good luck.
  • Thanks plknj.

    I thought that these Camrys only came with these Bridgestones. I'll check out tirerack.com.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    My car was a May 5th 2006 delivery (an early one). It was out of aliggn from the factory and since I was maintaining it at the dealer on 5000 mile increments I didn't even look at the tread. At about 9000 miles I noticed the cupping and had it aligned on warranty. (I've had the same issues with other Toyotas). The tires though (Bridgestones) wore out completely before 24000 miles. Fortunately I had a "tires for life" deal at my dealership and they put another set on. At 39,000 miles I can see these will need replaced before the summer is over. I couldn't convince my dealer to put better tires on, explaining it would save him money and perhaps even be cheaper. That's the only reason I stick with the Bridgestones (free is good no matter how long they last)

    I don't understand why Toyota decided to put a V rated tire on an economy car. I don't know a lot about low rolling resistance tires, and I can see where a hard rubber tire like a V rated tire can help, but surely they make one with a 400+ treadwear rating? I have heard of no one complaining about the Michellin's.

    The other problem I have is with the size of the tires and calibration of the speedo. Earlier posts last year covered this but it is impossible to change tire size to correct the speedometer error. This should have been designed and then calibrated with a taller sidewall for comfort, OR give me the SE suspension! I don't want rough riding tires with soft springs. I want a ride like a (Big) Cadillac or like a Vette.
  • shook4shook4 Posts: 4
    Our TCH 50th Anniversary Edition has 15,700 miles on it and the original factory Bridgestone E400 V rated tires have had to be replaced. We had alignment problems with the car and I noticed this at the first 5,000 mile rotation. The dealer did only a 2 wheel alignment and I still noticed inside tread wear on the front tires at the 10K rotation. At the 15K rotation I noticed an excessive pull to the right and the tires were badly worn. I replaced the tires with Bridgestone Potenza G019 Grid tires. I also had a lifetime alignment done at the Firestone garage where I bought the tires. The car now runs true and the new tires are much quieter, longer lasting and more fuel efficient. The original tires had only a 20,000 mile tread wear specification. I noticed the new TCH has a Michelin Energy tire with a much higher tread wear rating. Also, when it comes time for you to replace the tires on your TCH, stick with the 215/60R16 size. I found changing tire size caused problems with the computers ability to transition from battery to gas, reducing the fuel efficiency.
  • wvgasguywvgasguy Posts: 1,405
    I found changing tire size caused problems with the computers ability to transition from battery to gas, reducing the fuel efficiency.

    I doubt that had anything to do with the computer, more than likely to do with the tires rolling resistance; a wider tire or different tread design causing more friction
  • Finally replaced the stock wheels with some cool OZ Racing Rims off tire rack .
    Question- does anyone know if the computer and speedo can be recalibrated ? I think it's showing me with lesser mileage and that I'm going slower than speed shown on speedometer .
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