Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mercedes Benz R-Class Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1910111214

Comments

  • ven7782ven7782 Posts: 8
    ramssaran or other R350 experts, need your suggestion. I am negotiating a 2009 R350 with P2 premium package and a rear view DVD entertainment with 23K miles for 42K OTD. Is it a good deal? I am also getting a 2010 Acura MDX (Tech package) with 6K miles for the same amount (OTD). I am confused as to which one shall I go with.

    My concern with R350 is that it is very difficult to resell it, Its maintenance cost and low fuel economy. I am inclined more towards the R350 because it has more space compared to Acura and its rear DVD entertainment system.

    Thanks,
    Ven
  • texan100texan100 Posts: 1
    I just sold my MDX- 2003 model after driving it for over 6 years. I never once had trouble. I sold it because i came to know that 03 models started developing transmission issues and also 90K mile service and timing belt change would cost me well over 7000.

    My choice was MB R-350. I talked to my friend who has been driving since 06 and his suggestion was to stay away from it after warranty is over. It seems every repair costs a fortune and some thing or another goes wrong every week. I am seriously considering MDX tech package but i so desperately wish I had R350 without all these repair issues.

    I guess I am in similar situation to choose between lexus GX 470 or MDX or R350. I think I would go with a vehicle which would have bumper to bumper factory warranty till 100k miles and then sell it the day warranty expires.
  • storm10storm10 Posts: 175
    You should probably go for MB CPO. Automatically gives you 100,000 miles warranty and they are fully reconditioned, so fully serviced. You can also buy extended original MB warranty up to 135,000 miles!

    But personally, I would recommend to lease instead of buying. Lease brand new. If you do it right and make a good deal - you will end up paying less per month than the actual depreciation of this vehicle, and you don't need to worry about buying extended warranty. Everything is covered. If you fall in love with your car, then you can buy the remaining balance at the end of the lease...
  • herisheris Posts: 15
    edited August 2011
    I am replying to previous posts responding to johnwang. John was right!

    I want EVERYONE to know, that in the past two weeks, I found out through Orange Park Mercedes that WE WERE GROSSLY MISLEAD AND DECEIVED BY OUR SALESMAN when we purchased our extended warranty from the PENSACOLA MERCEDES DEALERSHIP in Pensacola, Florida. I believe there's only one MB dealer there, so you don't have to worry about getting them confused.

    After service on my car, I found out my warranty runs out next November, probably before I even hit 50K! Now, HOW CAN THAT BE WHEN WE HAVE A 100K WARRANTY? Well, OPMB explained what I actually bought. WE WERE SCAMMED@#(%!!!!!! WE WERE LIED TO about how the extended warranty worked and our warranty will run out about the same time as when the original warranty w run out.

    I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER MERCEDES AGAIN BECAUSE OF THIS. NO ONE SEEMS TO CARE, NOR WANTS TO MAKE THIS RIGHT. IT'S A MAINTENANCE CA$H HOG AND I AM PI$$ED ABOUT BEING LIED TO BY the PENSACOLA MERCEDES BENZ SALESMAN.

    PENSACOLA MERCEDES IS CUSTOMER NO SERVICE SINCE I AM AN OUT OF TOWN PATRON... AND YES, I CALLED AND TALKED TO THEM, BUT THEY ARE HANDS OFF. I am calling my lawyer though.

    DOGGONE IT ...WE THOUGHT WE HAD YEARS OF ADDITIONAL WARRANTY ACCORDING TO THE SALES PERSON!!!! WE WOULD HAVE *NEVER* PAID $2K+/- FOR ONLY 10,000 MILES OF ADDITIONAL WARRANTY!!!!!!
  • storm10storm10 Posts: 175
    Any car warranty usually expires based on time or mileage - whichever comes first...
  • herisheris Posts: 15
    "Any car warranty usually expires based on time or mileage - whichever comes first..."

    No joke. However, we were told that when we purchased the 100,000 mile extended warranty, it gave us an additional three years of warranty for our money. We were told it normally sold for $2,500 plus, but they sold it to us for less. Comes to find out, we were lied to about that TOTALLY. Our warranty will expire at the normal 50,000 time. The EXTENDED warranty was for IF we went over the 50,000. THERE IS NO WAY WE WOULD HAVE BOUGHT THAT WARRANTY IF THAT WERE THE CASE. I DRIVE LESS THAN 8K MILES A YEAR and have for the past 12 years!!!! My driving habits were not going to change! We were LIED TO BY PENSACOLA MERCEDES BENZ SALES REP for the car. Period... We found out just before a cruise and we've just returned. :mad:
  • Thanks for sharing Heris. I brought a similar package here in Canada, I will now check if I have the same problem.
  • I am looking at a 2009 R-350, 50k miles that was just returned to the dealer off of lease. The car is not even in the dealers inventory as it is still owned by MBUSA financing. Any thoughts on what this car would sell at at auction? How much negotiating do you think there is considering the dealer does not have to pay for marketing and will sell immeadiately. If I do not buy it I do not think they will take it into inventory.
  • Ask that question, here: Real-World Trade-In Values

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • We have a 2006 R350 premium package, etc that I bought as Certified from my local dealer and then bought an extended warranty that is good for another 3 years and 50k from now because it was such a frequent visitor to the repair shop. That warranty has paid for itself so many times and as a result the car has had many new items put on it and is in great shape (I hear a noise, I take it in, I see a light on, I take it in, etc). I just want a newer one, should have bought a 2008 or 2009 when I bought this one.

    I looked up trade in value ($18,500), private sale($21,400) and retail values ($23,600) and realize those don't really take into account the value of the extended warranty for a car of this vintage (in fact I cannot find a 2006 R350 under warranty within a 500 mile range of me). The difference between retail and certified for the car is about $1500 and since the warranty cost me $3,200 a year ago, I figure it has to increase the value of the car by at least that much over the trade or private sale value that various tools list. Does that sound about right?

    I'd like to try to work a trade with my local dealer (who sold me the car and the extended warranty), so I am trying to get a sense of exactly what the numbers are so he doesnt make too much from me on the combination of the trade in and the new sale. I know how to figure out how to drive a good deal on the new sale, it's the trade that has me puzzled. I'm guessing he'll list the car for $25k, so getting $18.5k trade value seems like leaving too much on the table. He's serviced the car and has always done everything that needs to get done, so he wont have any real inspection/service costs before he puts it on the lot. But obviously, he has some costs in selling it and needs to make a bit of profit. What is a good place to start with a proposed trade, $21,500, higher/lower?

    Personally I wouldn't dream of owning a 2006 R outside of warranty, so I am surprised people would pay in the range of $20k for one!
  • syman1syman1 Posts: 1
    Browsing thro posts here, I noticed that someone bought a CPO 3 years old. 33k miles for $23,500 (2009) . Current listed market prices(dealer asking price) for something equivalent is something around 38k. I dont get it. Was a 3yr old CPO R really selling for that low just a couple of years back. What would be a fair price to pay now. Any advise would be greatly appreciated as I am so confused at this point.
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    Well, I can't speak about that specific deal, but the market has definitely changed. The deal I got on a one model year old with 5200 miles has gone up by at least $5000 to $8000 in the past year. The used car market in general has changed for all cars. Fewer big deals on new cars also.

    There is lots of talk on a Mercedes owners forum and the general consensus is that whatever reliability problems that existed for the R Class were definitely solved on the 2009 and newer models. Possibly also true for 2008 models.
  • adkoladkol Posts: 5
    Hi, request to the gurus here: - thinking of buying a private party R350 '08 with 35k miles.

    1) How reliable are the cars? What kind of annual maintenance am I looking at?
    2) What would be fair price - has nav and ent system.
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    Its hard to guess the value. It depends on where you live. Check out used prices on cars.com or autotrader and set the area search to 500 miles. Looks like good low mileage. Reliability was worse for the 2006 and 2007 and best on mid 2009 and newer. 2008 models are in the middle. Check to see if the engine number is in the range for the cam sensor problem. Not all cars in the range have the problem, but it can be expensive. Service and oil change is required only every 10,000 miles and will cost $250 to $400 at a dealer, less at a good independent specializing on German cars. The transmission fluid will require changing and flush at 40,000 miles so get a price on that. Tires only last around 30 to 35k on average. You can have a dealer pull up the service record for that vehicle ID no matter what dealer serviced it. No problems yet on my 2010 with 28k miles and I love it.
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    The engine problem I mentioned is also called balance shaft sensor problem.
  • adkoladkol Posts: 5
    Thanks 'gforaker'. I am looking for this in the DC area. Do you know where I can check on the engine issue - any link?
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    Get the serial number and call your local dealer service dept. They can look up the engine number and tell if your engine is in the Balance shaft problem area. They have a number of service bulletins.

    Service bulletin is here - link title

    From another forum:

    M272 (350) engine up to Serial #468993 or M273 (550) to 088611. The material for the balance shaft sprocket and the timing chain guide wheel (idler) was modified on engines past the serial numbers listed above.

    If engine #is within range, reference DTB S-B-03.30/08j JUN09 for repair under factory warranty or extended warranty. Out of warranty have SM involve MB rep covering dealership to consider/approve goodwill repair given defective part was installed @ production


    Not all engines in the range will have problems. This affects all MB cars with the 350 M272 engine, not just R Class. MB is now helping owners with the problem, but the help varies according to your relationship with the dealer.
  • adkoladkol Posts: 5
    Thanks 'gforaker'. I got the engine nr as 27296730937118 - how do interpret from this? Thanks so much for your help - really appreciate it.
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    edited July 2012
    I'm no expert, but it looks to me that your last 6 digits "937118" are above the problem area 2729..30 468993 listed in the bulletin. Your local dealer SA could tell you for certain.
  • veena1veena1 Posts: 1
    I got an offer from a local on Mercedes Benz on R350 for $8000 less on MRSP. The MRSP of the car is 62,525 and he offered it for 54,525. Is this a good price for this model. The price includes premium package 1, parktronic, 7 seat option, blind spot assist, panorma sunroof, rear seat entertainment, heated front seats.
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.