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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

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  • My truck was recently at the dealer and they couldn't replicate the start-up failure symptoms or find anything wrong after 5 days of variable testing, i.e., hot/cold, and repeated sequence starting. They checked for possible spark and fuel issues and found no codes or fuel pressure related problems.

    The truck failed to start at least 12X over a period of 7 weeks prior to taking it to the dealer. Since then, it hasn't failed to start in nearly two weeks, although it has rough started a couple times.

    The dealer advised me to observe whether the theft deterrent light flashes the next time the vehicle fails to start.

    I believe there might be an intermittent electrical issue associated with starting failure.

    Still seeking any helpful insight from knowledgeable gear-heads on the forum.
  • I had the same problem. The thief deterent system activaed and locked out my ignition system. I was told to turn off the car, wait 20 minutes and retry. It took 2 Hours of repeated efforts but if finally started. I drove it to the dealer and they had to replace a "Huge" module under the dashboard. I can't remember what they called it. But it was a good 20-22 inches long and had to be special ordered. Ever since then everything has been fine. Thank God it was covered under warranty.
    Wish I could be of more help. But describe the module to the dealer and see if they can run a check. It is and intermediate problem so they will have to keep the vehicle for a few days to spot it.
    Good luck
  • rcd2rcd2 Posts: 1
    Hey folks
    I just bought a 2009 Colorado LT1 with the 2.9 engine as part of the cash for clunkers, It has a total of 1200 miles on it. I had to take it in to the dealer already because it was back firing and they said there was a service bulletin about the exhaust seal between the caytiltic converter and the muffler. They fixed that but I'm still hearing a noise like a low farting (for lack of a better discription) noise when I accelerate. Also I have allot of carbon buildup in the tailpipe when its seems like there should be next to none at this point. Finally its shifting poorly on the highway, it seems to gear back and forth between 2nd and third harshly when pulling into traffic. I cant help but this this is related somehow to the engine, possibly a torque issue. This is my first ever new car, I have service my own cars in the past and if I were to guess Id say it has a bad exhaust valve but I know these new engine are complicated.
    Generally its running ok. It seems to idle a little rough. Im going to take it back to the dealer later in the week. If there is anyone out there who has any information regarding these issues please let me know. Im hoping I didn't just trade in my Clunker Safari which ran till the wheels were falling off for another brand new clunker.
  • Carbon build up sounds as if it's running very rich. They should check your fuel system. Don't know about the tranny. Maybe related thru the central computer.
  • I have a 2004 Canyon with 46,000 miles with the L5 engine. I had a engine miss and check engine light was on. I have a friend that is a GM tec and he put the scanner on it and we found #1 cylinder was missing. I already put new plugs and the head was replaced at 26,000 miles. We also looked on the factory GM repair database site and noticed that there were MANY problems with heads and fuel injectors. I decided to take it to Jim Lupient Chev in Bloomington Minnesota where I bought the vehicle. They called me and stated that #1 and #3 fuel injectors were bad and that it would cost me about $1300.00. I asked them about the oil consumption and they stated that it could be a blocked passage in the valve cover and that would cost me about $450.00 to have them look at that. I told them no on that repair. Called me 2 days later and told me my vehicle was done but now #4 was bad and that it would of cost me additional $940.00 if they had replaced them when the did the original repair. Got in a argument with them and left. Got a block away and the check engine light came back on! Long story short, the dealer and regional GM service told me to bad. I am writting many letters!! GM charged me $218.00 per injector. I decided to fix it myself. I found NEW injectors on Amazon for $85.00 each. Was not a easy job but it took me about 5 hours to do the complete job. It runs good now but I might just be driving it to a Ford dealer and buying a quality vehicle from a company that does't have all our money and even more of mine. GM either makes junk injectors for this vehicle so at 46,000 mile you need to spend $2300.00 to GM to replace them all or the mechanic needs to learn his job. I beleive its the first. I will never buy another GM and will never do business with Lupient Chev of Bloomington Minnesota.

    Good luck all!! GO FORD!!!!!!!!
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Has anyone noticed that the plant that builds these trucks (Shreveport, La) was not transferred to the "new" GM company that emerged from bankruptcy? I think that says a lot about this plant and the quality of the product. The "old" GM exists only to sell off the assets that the new GM does not want.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I don't think this has anything to do with the quality of what the plant builds. The H3 Hummers are built there and are being sold to China company and will only be built for 2 years. The Colorado has been around in this style for about 5 or 6 years and my guess will be phased out with the hummer and the new small truck will be built in one of the current plants that will hav room as Saturn and Pontiac goes away. The people who work at these plants can only build with what they are given and in the amount of time they are given to perform their work. I had a Colorado CrewCab for over 4 years without a major hiccup as has many many thousands. For the most part the people here are the minority who have a problem or think they have a problem. There have been many who have bought this vehicle or another vehicle USED and then blamed the manufacturer for not producing a quality product even though they have no idea who owned it before or how/if they even took proper care of it.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    My wife and I bought a 22,000 mi 2006 Canyon from the original owner in May. The REDUCED POWER and EMISSIONS lights came on a few months ago. I pulled over and restarted the car. The EMISSIONS light stayed on, and as there was less than a 1/4 tank I thought it might need some clean gas. After filling the tank the EMISSIONS light didn't come back on. But last week my wife used the truck early in the morning and she told me after that the REDUCED POWER light came on for her and the truck wouldn't respond. A master mechanic friend at a local gas station did a free diagnostic and found the report: P2138 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION (APP) SENSOR 1-2 CORRELATION. He said it was a sensor for the gas pedal or perhaps the whole pedal unit. I took it to the Morgan GMC in Shreveport (ironically) where our other friend purchased it, and they want $95 just to do the diagnostic and at least a few hours wait just for that. So I said I'd come back. Instead I am researching it further here....And the Morgan dealer service rep informed me that the manufacturers warranty had run out in April 2009...we bought it in May. The seller said it ran great. But I am wondering if our seller "friend" may have had the signal as well. (I can't call it a "problem" yet as it has only happened twice.)
  • Has any one had a problem with the welds breaking at the exhaust manifold and pipe. It happened today coming from work. I hit a bump and went from quiet to race truck. Called the dealer and they wanted to replace the exhaust manifold and I asked is the pipe already welded on and he said he didn't know ???????? So I called a muffler place and there going to look at it tomorrow. He said if he can get in there to weld he'll do it. I hope he can..........Zippy
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I would do further diagnostics. If there is something wrong with the emissions system (catalytic convertor, power module, etc.) it's still under the emissions warranty which runs for 5 years (?) or 80,000 miles (?). Check your warranty booklet for the items covered by the emissions warranty. I had an S10 that was over 4 years old and had over 70,000 miles and the catalytic convertor was replaced free of charge because it was covered by the emissions warranty. Good luck.
  • Well no welding. Theres another converter thats apart of the exhaust manifold. They got to replace the exhaust manifold which will cost over a grand. The warranty is 8 yrs/ 80,000 miles. I got over 85,000. SUCKS. This is the first time I had to sink some money into this truck, so I feel pretty good about it. Hope this doesn't start a chain reaction.
    later zippy
  • I have a 09 chevy colorado with 1863 miles on it two months old.On saturday Oct 24 I was on the highway when all of a sudden I felt a shudder in the truck I thought it was just the wind so I kept going about a mile farther down there was a explosion
    under the truck sparks and smoke all over.I thought i blew a tire when we got over to the side of the road all tires wer all right.i discovered the there was no drive shaft under the truck and the front end of the differential had been blown off. I had the truck towed into the dealer and awaiting word the truck is brand new with one thousand eight hundred miles on it.I am wondering if anyone else has had thi problem
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Well that sounds like a royal assembly line screw-up at best and a part failure at worst. I'd report that one to NHTSA asap. You are very very lucky actually---this type of failure (which I have seen now and then even on very expensive cars) can cause real mayhem---either the driveshaft coming through the floor, or half the driveshaft hanging down, causing a "pole-vault" effect to flip the vehicle over.

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  • Thank you for your concern and info i filed a complaint with the NHTSA on monday
    you are right it is just really sinking in we could have been killed
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Very dangerous situation. If you hear of any other similar occurrences, please let us know. Perhaps there's something brewing here --although for the sake of other drivers, I hope it's just a one-time glitch.

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  • gmerazgmeraz Posts: 5
    Hey hows it going i have the same problem with my truck but only the low fartting noise after start up at about 10mph- 13 before second gear i took it to the dealer ship and they said that the truck does a system check at frirst gear but i think that there is a real problem with my truck help let me know whats going on and what should i do to it. by the way my truck is a 2009 2.9 4 cyl i had it for 1 year and 3 months i was the first one in California to get a 2009 model.
  • lbdjrlbdjr Posts: 1
    Similar problem with my 06 Colorado (I-5) rwd crew cab. The car would indicate reduced power and just die at stop lights. Turning ignition key did NOTHING for about 5 minutes. Then it would start and then die on me. At 35,000 miles and 3 1/2 years ownership car was out of warrantee (or so I thought). I took to Advance Auto for free check eng. code diagnosis which was "P0601". I googled the trouble code and learned it was the "PCM Control Module" or brain for the engine. Because this PCM has everything to do with emissions the PCM has a factory warrantee of 8 years or 80,000 miles. The Chev dealer replaced it at no charge.
    Car runs fine once again...hope it lasts. I hope this info might be helpful to other Colorado/Canyon owners.
  • Yes, when I started looking up information about the problem I'm with my 2006 GMC canyon, u guys gave me some insight. I started tearing my room apart for that letter, and thank GOD, I found it. I took my truck at first to a GMC dealer, they told me it was bad gas, burn the gas out, then fill again with a higher octane and treatment. So, I was waiting to do all that within 2 weeks. So when I found the letter, I called them back and told me the same thing. So I called another GMC dealer and they told me to bring it in, they got a feeling that the letter I got is whats causing my truck to act up. The other dealer just probably took my 75.00 for nothing, just for running a test on it, then to tell me it's the gas. So I'm taking the truck in tomorrow morning, pray for me that this is what the problem is, and I want be out of pocket. Thanks Discussion Board for you imput.
  • I always have to laugh when a mechanic tells you it's 'bad gas'. That translates to 'I don't have any clue what's wrong' or 'I don't want to fix it'... these trucks are built to run on regular 87 octane. The worst that would happen if the octane was too low would be pinging. Next time someone gives you that song and dance, push back and insist that they fix what they built and guaranteed. If you don't get satisfaction, go up the management tree. I had that happen one time with a Ford Ranger with a bad u-joint. they tried to tell me that nothing was wrong. I took it to another Ford dealer that fixed it on warranty. I then went back to the original deal, got the boss's name and called Ford. Don't know that it did any good, but at least he probably got a phone call. And these clowns wonder why people want to buy a Toyota....
  • You are so right. The other gmc place i'm taking it too, said almost the same thing u said. Why would he tell me something like that (bad Gas). But I just pray that when I take it tomorrow, that will be the problem and they can fix it. Do you think I can get my 75.00 back from the first dealership that told me it was bad gas, from the company that sent out the letter? I'm gonna try it and see, that's if the other company fix it. Then if they do, I just may give the 1st company a call and tell them that I got it fixed and ask will I get my money back. But, I'll let u guys know if it work when they check it out.
  • Well guys and girls as I said, I took my vehicle in to the dealership, come to find out it wasn't the valve seat wear that the letter speaks about. They had to replace the cam shaft actuator solenoid on the motor. They claim that I had a very bad oil build-up. It looked to them like I wasn't changing my oil, which I was but just not enough. So it caused very bad build up inside the motor. I don't want to get into very deep details about the cam shaft and what was wrong with it, but some of u would probably know. So, they gave me a price of 600.00 to fix it :mad: . This is with them flushing the motor, oil change labor parts and all that good stuff. I told them, I don't have 600 bucks, can u do something else to it that will lower the price? I said just put the part on and change the oil. They did, total cost 363.04. Still to high when u don't have the money, but I had to have it fix, before I had to replace the motor. U better believe this has tought me a lesson. Keep Your Oil Changed. So now I got to try and change my oil every 2-3 months. Man, I had tears in my eyes, when they were telling me what the cost was going to be. Do anyone no what is a good solution to put in the engine to break down oil build up? I thought about some (DAWN Dish Detergent) ;) But, I hope this help guys.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Well, regarding the "bad gas" idea, perhaps it is the way the truck's computer brain is reading on start up? Bought mine from the first-time owner at 22,000 mi this past May 2009 (he bought it in April 2006--so it was past the 3 yr warranty as I found out--but you've all said there are other longer warranties). On each of the three times it has given the Reduced Power, the gas tank has been 1/4 or slightly less AND it has been early morning when it is cooler. Once or twice with the emissions light on. Went to the gas station, filled it up, and both were off on start up with a full tank. Is it possible that it is "bad gas" in the sense that perhaps there is some humidity in the gas line--wherever the computer reads it? (Obviously I am both a car and computer neophyte.) NOw at 35,000 mi and time for another oil change. How many miles before a tune up?
  • I have had my 2006 Colorado I5 3.5L 4x4 for about a year and a half. It has got just over 88000 miles on it. I am from Canada, but i bought my truck from the states with 47000 miles. (went to school for a year, was driving back and forth everyday) Everything was all good, i loved my truck, but lately, in about the last 3 months or so they check engine light has been coming on for a few days at a time, then going out for a day or two, just to come right back on. My boyfriend works for a tow truck company/service shop and he hooked the scanner up to my truck, which revealed a random cylinder misfire code (i believe its code PO300) We did the diagnostic test, it came out fine when i was driving, no misfire, but when it is idling i has a major misfire in cyl. 3. I changed all the spark plugs, no luck, changed the plug in 3 again figuring maybe it was a bad plug.. nope!
    One of the mechanics at my boyfriends work told me to take the coil pack from cyl 1 and put it into 3, and switch them around. I did that, no such luck. Still misfires in 3. I have been putting mid-grade gas and occassionally injector cleaner into the truck.. it seemed to help at first, but now it doesn't. I have changed the coil pack on 3.. but nothing. I am really getting frustrated with this. I love my truck and don't want to get rid of it. But there are no recalls about this issue, and typically, my warranty JUST ended. I really do not know what to do. I cannot afford to pay 4 grand to get this fixed, but i am afraid that if it goes unsolved then it will lead to way bigger issues. Is there anyone else having this problem?
    Luckily, i have not had any other issues with my truck, so i am grateful for that.

    Please help me!! :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    If you have a misfire at idle, with no engine load, I would tend to be suspicious of a vacuum leak, intake manifold leak, that sort of thing--in other words, leaking atmospheric air that is screwing up the air/fuel mixture.

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  • i'm sorry, i know a bit about vehicles, but not enough.. How would i go about fixing this issue then? My grandpa told me to do a compression test, and then one of the guys i work for (i work in a parts store) told me that i should do a leak test.. But this doesn't tell me how to fix this.
    Thanks for your input Mr. Shiftright. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Testing for vacuum leaks might best be left to someone who knows how to do that. Basically you are looking for areas where outside air can get sucked into the engine above and beyond what it is mixing itself in the proper amounts. Mechanics use a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks, or a propane tank, the idea being that the smoke is inhaled by the engine at a vacuum leak point, at idle,(and you can see that happening) or that the engine takes in the propane gas and starts to speed up at idle.

    Too much of an air leak will screw up the idle mixture, leaning out the mixture (normally about 14 parts air to one part fuel) and causing a misfire.

    So at least you know the principles now of what the problem might be.

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  • Thank you very much. I will inquire about this with the GM garage in town here..

    Hopefully it will stop this issue.

    Thanks Again!!! Its greatly appreciated. :)
  • don't know what year your truck is. I have a 2009 Canyon which had problems with engine stalling as well. Turns out their was a recall for some engine part. Sorry I don't remember the name, but the recall can be looked up. In any case, once this part was replaced my truck now runs great.
  • they replace the cam shaft actuator on my truck and they said I had oil build up engine that caused it to stall and sputter. so they replaced that and it's been working pretty good so far.
  • I have an 05 Colorado. The same thing happened to my truck and we are so blessed to have an honest mechanic. He let me know that he thought there was a recall; which i am the only owner of the vehicle and i have never received nor did i see anything on line about it. He spoke with the local dealership and they confirmed it was under a "special policy." They fixed the cylinder head for free. If my mechanic was not honest we would have spent somewhere around 2500 to maybe 3500 on this problem.

    The dealership could not give me a copy of this policy and i am trying to still get a hold of this special policy. I got my tuck back today and i am taking it back to my mechanic to make sure they did everything correctly. After that i am going to contact our local news. I think that this is outrageous that 100's of maybe 1000's are paying for this out of pocket because the manufacturer is not making people aware of the problem they created. It took a MONTH for me to get my truck back. I am grateful and praise God that we did not have to pay for this out of pocket however the dealership didn't give me a replacement vehicle either. If my brother in law and i did not work together i would have spend just as much on a rental vehicle as i would have getting my vehicle fixed. They wouldn't even discount a rental vehicle price.

    I hope this issue gets out there. If i get a hold of the special policy i will send it to you in an email my email is amber@shanonsalsbury.com. Send me yours. This is a big problem it is a misfire in your cylinder head and can cause your whole head to have to be replaced if it is not taken care of. I suggest you call the dealership and check to see with your vin if it is under the special policy and then bring it there to get checked out. Try not to drive it as much as you can.
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