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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

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  • Well, I took mine to a dealership, they fix this thing call a cam shaft actuator. Says that is what cause my truck to do what it was doing. I don't believe it, but it stop the problem. O.K. my thing is I called GMC about the recall, and it's like they don't want to do the recall :mad: , they called the dealership and spoke with them about what they done to the truck, gmc tells me that the CSA didn't have anything to do with the recall, so I lost on that :cry: . even though my truck was doing everything that the recall had stated, they still will not do the recall part. The dealership said I had oil sludge buildup that was causing the problem, where I wasn't changing my oil. Now that really pist me off :mad: . I know I was changing my oil, but not as regular as I should have. My thing is if you got a recall why not fix the problem, before it does greater damage. I found the paper on the recall and everything, but they still want do the recall. I told them about it takes at least now, 2-3 miles before it shifts out the 4th gear. What is causing that, I don't know. This started happening about 2 years ago. GMC wants me to take it back and let them check it out again, and I got to pay them again just to do that, heck nah!!!. I told GMC don't worry about it. I'll just drive it until it tear up. then maybe they will know exactly what the problem is.
  • I also have a paper of the recall, like i said in my earlier message. If you want a copy of it, let me know. I don't know what good it will do, with my name on it. email me at secretskept01@yahoo.com. and let me know.
  • Me 2, Thanks longrunner1, I own a 2005 Colorado Xtreme Quadcab I-5 and has 55,000 miles on it and had the low idle Check Engine light with code P0506 (low idle rpm) After following instructions my CEL is now gone and idle is smooth at 700rpm instead of that very rough and shaky 500rpm. Nice to have a dark dashboard at night time without any CEL's anymore! Thanks for the great instructions, glad I didnt have to take it to a dealer for them to start replacing random overpriced parts to try to troubleshoot this "rare" problem...haha.

    Once I fixed this my drivers side window quit working with power locks. I have had 3 of the main problems listed on this site. The 3rd issue I had is the blower not working at 1-3 but only at 4. I hope to tackle those 2 issues this week. There seems to be good info about the heater blower, not sure about the electrical issue besides some "maybe fixes" things I can try.
  • Had the driver-s side window issue; if i remember right i disconnected the control module a couple times, disconnected the battery and let everything reset, and haven't had a problem since. Cause was a weak battery- the high compression on the engine takes a lot of juice to start, and the battery can't handle it- I changed to a high cap. regular lead acid batt. from O'Reilly's Auto parts, instead of the expensive gel-cell unit. They upgraded the alternator on later models to a higher amperage- but I haven't had an issue since changing the battery. The blower motor issue is a burnt connector going to the blower ballast resistor pack- you can get the connector online or maybe at a decent NAPA store for half the dealer cost - get the resistor pack too. This was related to the weak battery issue- low system voltage after starting, then flipping the blower on right away causes excessive current draw and heats up the connector, which melts and goes runaway till it fails.
  • Why lord, I didn't find this forum earlier? It would have saved me at least 200.00 bucks. The part and labor to replace the Cam Shaft Actuator, cost me 363.04 :sick: . This part is what the recall should have been on, not the engine intake valve seat. GMC is a sorry company :mad: . That's why it pays to be able to work on your own vehicle, or take it to a mac. that know a little. Hope you guys have good luck, and I pray that my vehicle will last until I get the cash to fix the next problem.
  • They did not give me my money back. Sorry piece of @@@@.
  • bneelbneel Posts: 1
    Has anyone gotten an attorney for any of these problems with the engine head? I have a 2005 colorado and one of the valves burnt through the #1 cylinder and never received any recall notice or a bulletin notice. I had it to a gm dealer twice and the second time they said it would cost up to $5000.00 to fix the motor but at that point could not tell us exactly what it was until they could tear it apart. The VIN numbers fall in between the other VIN numbers that were suppose to be fixed for free. When GM headquarters was called regarding all of this they refused to fix it since the mileage was over 100,000 miles. An suggestions from anyone?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    The defect concerned porous Castech heads, so since you burned a valve, this might not be related. But even if it was related, you are long out of warranty, so I don't see any possible solution for you other than to fix the problem at your own expense; however, $5000 for a pair of heads seems way too much. I'd definitely shop around at good independent shops.

    Your heads might be fine. Maybe it's just a situation that requires a valve job. The heads can be tested at a machine shop once they are off.

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  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Also, check out the salvage yards. There maybe a wrecked Colarado or Canyon where you can get a used engine. Good luck.
  • Ok, so i had posted a message on here a few months ago about how my '06 Colorado has a misfire in cylinder 3 at idle. Well, still haven't gotten that issue fixed, but now, i noticed last night that when i'm doing about 90 Km the RPM's tend to fluctuate between 1700 and 2500. Like the idle is kicking itself up. Its really weird, and it has never done this before. My step-dad, who is a mechanic, told me to try to not drive it and take it to the GM dealer in town. So i think i am going to have to.
    Also, last night my dad and I did a compression test, and nothing seems out of the ordinary. Cyl 1: 195 ; Cyl 2: 175 ; Cyl 3: (surprisingly) 165 ; Cyl 4: 193 ; Cyl 5: 195.
    Like i said, they are all within normal range.

    And 2 other problems i have been noticing lately: The passenger seat sensor seems to not work sometimes. My boyfriend will be sitting right next to me and it says the air bag is off and that no one is sitting there, the buckle up light doesn't flash, but in the dash it is lit up(not flashing). (i don't have the option to turn the air bag on and off. if someone is sitting in the seat it comes on, if there's no one then its off.)
    And the last issue is that my 4-way button seems to stick. I don't know why, no sticky foods or drinks have been near it. And we're not rough on it or anything.. so i don't get it. I'm starting to think that these trucks should be taken off the market. The seem to have TOO many problems. :sick:

    Any info, or any of the same issues that some else is having would be helpful. At least i will know i am not the only one having these problems. Plus, I cannot afford to take it to the dealer. I know that will cost lotsa $$$$$.

    Thank you!!
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I'm guessing your truck is out of warranty so my question is this. You say your step-dad is a mechanic so why would you want to take it to a dealer and pay through the nose instead of lettind Daddy dear fix it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    If you have an automatic transmission, sounds like your truck is dropping in and out of overdrive.

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  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Shifty", keep in mind that the Canyon/Colorado engines are both "in-lines", so there's only one cylinder head.....

    It IS however, an overhead cam design, so it's a bit "pricier" that a typical OHV head.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Passion", with respect to the shift into 4th gear, keep in mind that until the engine is up to full operating temperature, which can take a while if the weather is cold, the truck will not go into overdrive. My '97 Chevy S-10 4x4 was like that, and my currently owned '05 Canyon 4x4 operates the same way.
  • cuz he is really busy currently, and because i don't know if he's ever worked on the engine of a truck like mine.. i don't want him to f it up... plus, gm mechanics SHOULD know what they are doing. I hope. Besides, i have some connections at our local gm dealership, so i think that i am going to just try to get the truck hooked up to their scanner because i know that it will give more detailed info as to what exactly is wrong with the truck.. lol :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Right you are. So it sounds like a sticking valve or a bad intake leak, maybe?

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  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Shifty", I was just browsing a couple of the "discount" GM parts site on the net, looking for parts for my car. This Canyon/Colorado cylinder head discussion struck my memory, so I looked it up.

    A 5 cyl. head is "discount priced" at $875 plus shipping. The 4 cyl. head is about $100 less. Valves are $14 and $16 for intake/exhaust, respectively.

    To the poster, keep in mind, these prices are for brand new parts, but labor, of course, is extra. However, what I'm getting at, is an entirely new cylinder head should be around $12-1400, and I would think a competent mechanic should be able to do the job in 8-10 hrs.
  • I wonder if you found (and fixed) the problem that you had starting your 04 Colorado. I have a 05 Colorado 4wd, and every so often it fails to start. It sounds like it has no gas, or there's no current going to the spark plugs (it just turns but won't start).
    After a few minutes and few attempts, it starts and runs fine until the problem happens again.
    If you (or anybody reading this posting) finally found out what the problem was, could you advise on how to fix it?
  • Hello,
    You were having rough, shaky idle at 500 rpm? I have a 06 colorado extended cab 4x4. Has 90200 miles on it. When it idles it idles at 700 rpm, and it is quite rough, so i leave my foot on the gas idling about 1000 rpm, seems to help, until i take my foot off, and it goes down to about 300 rpm, then brings itself back up to normal. It has been cold here (like -45 with the windchill) and i do plug the truck in at night, but during the day when i am working and have no where to plug in it gets bloody cold. (no winter front on YET, but have one and putting it on tonight, hopefully it will make a big difference!!) And the past few days i have started the truck, and it runs REALLY rough, like shaking and sputtering, occasionally the CEL flashes at me, so i immediately turn the truck off, turn the key to ON, let everything cycle and then start it. Once started i hold the throttle so it idles at about 1500 rpm. This seems to alleviate the issue, until next time. But last night i went to leave, and had only let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes, threw her into reverse, and tried to go. It sputtered, shook, and i thought it was going to stall, but once again, the CEL light flashed at me. I did my little routine of turning it off, etc etc etc. The truck did this to me 1 or 2 more times. It is like it is starving for fuel. But with these trucks, it is not possible to change the fuel filter unless you take the fuel tank out and replace the pump... (stupid GM design).

    I am really getting fed up with this truck. I have only had it for a year and a half!!!
    This is the 3rd issue that i have posted on this forum, none of which are solved yet.

    :mad: :sick: :cry:
  • That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 201k miles, better change mine again.
  • That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post-(I gave detailed instructions, search by my username)- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 210k miles, better change mine again
  • well, see, about the fuel filter.. I work in a parts store and i checked in our cataloging, for an 06 colorado, 3.5 L 5 cyl, 4x4, etc, there is no listing for exterior fuel filters. There is a note beside where the part number should be which reads "in order to change the fuel filter, the fuel pump must be changed. Because it is located in the gas tank."
    I found this statement in Wiki-answers when i searched fuel filter in 06 chevy colorado:
    For the 04-05 Colorado, the filter is attached to the front of the gas tank by a black plastic "harness." It's clearly visible with a quick glance under the truck, on the driver's side. It'll have a black line going in and one coming out. It is recommended that they be changed every 25,000 miles, according to the GM maintenance schedule.
    For the 06+ models, the fuel filter is inside the gas tank and is supposed to be maintenance free.

    Plus, from my inspections under the truck, i have not located the filter, and I know what to look for.
    I will double check with my mechanic tho, but i am damn sure that they are only in the tank.. sorry to say.

    :)
  • My truck keeps increasing and decreasing on the rpm at idle. I took it to O'Reillys" and they gave me the codes P0449/P0455. I believe it is a vacuum leak but I see no problems with any lines. Can someone please help me out? The truck only has 60,000 miles on it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Yep, those codes suggest a vacuum leak in the EVAP system:

    DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

    * To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light. Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals will allow less pressure into the EVAP system. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
    * A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
    * To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT.
    * Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.

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  • RUN do not walk to the dealer - there is a problem with the cylinder head but they just told be it would be $2300 to fix because they have a special warrentee program for this problem (the intake valves get burned by ethanol laced fuel which cause carbon buildup in the throttle body and other problems) but once the odometer clicks over 100K they will not touch it, so I missed it by a month .. dont make the same mistake
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I don't think so. The diagram I have shows the fuel filter alongside the gas tank in its own bracket.

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  • i donno, i will have to check it out when i get a chance to get the truck on the hoist. But i would think that my cataloging at work would show a filter for the truck if it had one.. but i swear, nothing comes up. I will check if anything comes up for an 05, maybe it will. Who knows.

    And as for running to the dealer instead of walking, i am too late. Truck has 90300 miles on it, that is about 150,000 kms... =(
    Unfortunately i am too late. I was going to school everyday last year, so i put ALOT of miles on the truck. (about 3 hours of driving everyday minus weekends and holidays)

    Thanks anyways! :)
  • I am curious about this- ethanol isn't "laced" in fuel, it exists in almost all fuel sold today, exept at some marinas where they sell ethanol-free fuel from some older boats(expensive). All vehicles built in the last 10 years at least have been engineered to run with a percentage of ethanol in the fuel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    It's a question of the percentage of ethanol used.

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  • are you sure about this?? Please I pray that you are right. You don't think it has anything to do with the speed sensor or I may need to have the transmission flushed or anything like that?? You think it has a lot to do with the cold weather, and the engine has to be at a certain temperature? I was going to take it to a machanic tomorrow and let him run some test. I just spent 368.00 to have the cam shaft actuator replaced. I'm gonna still do some research also. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
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