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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

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  • Hi, i had this same problem, i took mine to the dealer and they replaced the Cam Shaft Actuator. Said I had a lot of oil build up, and on the cam shaft act. there are little screans wires on it that the oil flows through, and they were missing. They replaced that, and said if I didn't get the engine flushed it may last for a while it may not, but I didn't have 600.00 bucks to give them. I just did have enough to give them to replace the CSA, cost almost 400.00 bucks. I hope this help. GMC also have a recall on the engine intake valve seat, but they would not replace mine, said all that what you were explaining did not have anything to do with the recall. but the recall stated everything that my truck was doing, and yours. So, let me know, what you find out. Oh! when they replaced the part, it stop the problem, but not sure for how long, and it's been almost a month or two now, I've also, changed my oil again within that months time. I used also a 5 min flush to help, don't know if it helped or not. Good luck, hope this help.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Passion", as I said, both my '97 S-10 and my '05 Canyon are vehicles that I drove primarily in the winter, when the outside temps are pretty cold. They both exhibited the same operation.

    My morning commute to work was such that I drove 3-4 miles at 40MPH or below, which is below the converter "lock-up" point, before I got to the expressway. That length of drive usually was enough to get the engine almost up to temp, so when I got to the expressway, for the major portion of my drive, the truck would shift into "OD" pretty much right away.

    However, on my trip home, it was only about a mile from my parking lot to the expressway, and of course the engine wasn't up to temp yet, so the truck wouldn't shift to OD until I was another 2-3 miles down the road. This wasn't something that was spelled out in the owner's manual, but simply something I observed in daily driving.

    Getting the transmission flushed, however, isn't a bad idea. I strongly believe in preventative maintenance, at least because I own, rather than "rent" (lease). Therefore, I drop the tranny pan, and change the fluid and throw in a fresh fliter, every couple of years. However, it's inexpensive for me, as I do all my own work.
  • O.k. thank you so much. That is exactly what my truck does. O.k so I have another question that deals with this same problem. O.k, say for instinct, when it shifts into OD, that last shift we are talking about, right. Say i get ready to pass someone, and I get in the gas tank to pass them, the rpm hand goes very high and the engine sounds rough when the rpm hand is up to the #3 or maybe a little higher. Should it do this even when the motor temperature is normal? I know I'm asking a lot of stupid questions, but, I don't need my truck to put me down right now without any money. If the lord bless me to see the summer again, i'm gonna try to remembet to monitor this, see if this problem occurs in the summer time.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    When you're accelerating to pass another vehicle, the truck's computer will sense the position of the accelerator pedal, as well as the engine vacuum, and downshift the transmission (at least it will do this with an automatic). The engine speed naturally goes up, due to the shift to the lower gear, as well as how far you're pushing the gas pedal.

    The Canyon/Colorado 5 cylinder has a "redline" (max speed) of about 6000 RPM. This is indicated by the "red zone" on your tachometer. The engine should be "reasonably" smooth up to this speed, however as you rev it that high, the engine will naturally get louder. If the computer and transmission are functioning correctly, the engine will rev up to the "redline", but not exceed it. (again, assuming it's an automatic).

    Revving it that high, in normal circumstances, shouldn't hurt it, but if you do this continuously, you'll shorten the life of the engine, due to the added wear and tear. Also, I wouldn't recommend "leaning on" the truck until it's fully warmed up....
  • Hey All,
    I've read thru and noticed a few people have asked a few questions and I may be able to help. I've owned a 06 Crew cab 4X4 since new. Only major issue I've com across is the cylinder head issue. Originally my check engine light was going on and off every couple of days. I called the dealership and they were not concerned and said if I was around to come in and they'd hook up the TECH2 to it but it was most likely a sensor. When I took it in they ended up ripping it apart and said the head was no good and cylinder 2 was misfiring, all cylinders were losing compression. This was taken in on Dec 17/09 at 75,000 KMS. they said this has probably been doing this for some time. They told me to continue to drive it until they got the part in to fix it. Of course trying to get set up for a rental over the holidays is impossible and I ended up waiting till Jan 13/10. I just got a call and it should have taken 1 1/2 days but now I won't see it till the 18th b/c of the weekend. although this is a pain in my [non-permissible content removed], from what I've been told I have two options:
    1. I go through the GMPP and pay a $200 deductible but a rental is free OR
    2. There is a special clause that I can use and I do not pay the deductible but pay for the rental

    Hope this helps out a few ppl.
  • Hi, i had this same issue, but them sorry SOB's would not replace mine, and I got a recall letter on this issue. The only thing they did was change out the cam shaft acuator, and changed the oil. Said I had a lot of oil builded up in my engine :surprise: , it didn't look like it to me. I paid them almost 400.00 to do that :cry: . Then they wanted to flush out the engine also, the total cost would have been about 600.00. I had them to replace the part, but no flushing I didn't have that kind of money on me. When they replaced that part, the light went off, unless they unpluged it, not sure I wasn't back there when they were working on it. An the hesitation and vibration and stalling stop. But, my engine still runs kind of rough, and the shifting of the last gear is kind of slow, not sure if it does that when it's cold weather or not, but i will keep a check on it, when the weather warms up. If it last that long. I'm glad that you are getting your repaired.
  • See, where I got lucky is that I have always dealt with the same dealership. I explained to them that this had happened previously, the light going on and off, and that I have always done all recommended work minus the transmission flush. They also know that when I do bring in the truck, I'm serious about getting the work done. I'm very particular about my truck and do the best I can to keep it in top shape. Another argument was the fact that this seems to be a common issue, though the dealership claims that my case is only the third that they personally have seen. I have had no issues with the dealership itself, but with the fact that GM seems not to be doing much about the issue :mad: . I was also told that I had to pay for the oil change, which really is no big deal to me as I was going to run it in for a oil change this month anyway. Another thing is I did notice that my check engine light was out even after the SA told me that it would be on, which makes me think the same as you, they must have unplugged it. I never noticed a difference in the engine and I spoke to several dealerships and they all said the most common is the vibration and rough idle. I did notice that my gas mileage quickly deteriorated and I wasn't even getting close to the the gas mileage that I once was. I did take it to another mechanic and was told the same as the dealership, so I do know that what they say it is, is actually the problem.
  • Thank you very much, I am taking it up to the mechanic to have them smoke test it for me. Again, thankyou. I will keep an eye out for where the leak is at.
  • the low idle was a common problem on these engines. Actually, the real problem is that the accelerator is sticking (although this is not as evident as the low idle; this is why you feel the surge, instead of a smooth acceleration. The low idle is a by-product of this problem). The problem is due to hydrocarbon (sludge) buildup inside the throttle body, and possibly the air flow sensor. He cleaned both (I assume with something like common carb cleaner?).
  • How do I replace the vent solenoid on my chevy colorado?
  • I agree, no vehicle or manufacturer is perfect but my personal experience is this, by far the Japanese brands I've owned over the last 25 years have been superior to the American products. I've owned one new Honda only, quite good overall but had terrible brake problems and a camshaft issue, that was back in 1982. That car managed 240,ooo kilometers. I decided to try a Ford :lemon: product next and spend my money on 'home' brands. I factory ordered that truck and had endless problems, in fact the truck was in the shop being repaired literally half the time I owned it which was only 3.5 months. I traded it in since I needed something far more reliable. My next choice was a Toyota. I know now why Toyota has the reputation they do. By far the best vehicle I have ever owned. It wasn't loaded with electrical gadgets so there was less potential for issues to creep up but my experience with this car was so much better than anything I'd ever owned I went back and bought 2 more over the years. I have had very good luck with Toyota's, they are built to last. If you plan to buy one and keep it for years it may well be worth the extra expense to pay more when its new but to buy one second hand is almost a crazy proposition, the prices are ridiculously high, you may as well buy a new one.
    Lately I have been researching the Canyon 3.5 & 3.7 and was thinking of buying one but I have read some alarming issues that these trucks have in the 3.5 & 3.7 litre engines. I hope current owners are having good luck getting their problems dealt with. If a light bulb burns out its normally not much to worry about but engine teardowns to fix major problems is pretty time consumming and frustrating and not something I ever had to concern myself with during the time I had Toyota products. The more I read the more likely I am to purchase another Toyota even with the publicity over their current recall notice.
    I was all set to try my first GM product but I'm apprehensive. I really do want to spend my money here at home on products built here by Canadians and Americans but the quality is an on-going concern.
    What ever happened to the indestructable Chevy's of the 50's and 60's?
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Many of the supposed Japanese autos have a higher proportion of PARTS made in the U.S. as well as being assembled here, such as our Camry in Kentucky.

    Make/Model Domestic-parts content Assembly location:
    Ford Taurus - 90 percent - Chicago
    Lincoln MKS - 85 percent - Chicago
    Toyota Sienna - 85 percent - Princeton, Ind.
    GMC Savana 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
    Chevrolet Express 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
    Buick Lucerne - 81 percent - Detroit
    Chevrolet Malibu - 80 percent - Kansas City, Kan.
    Honda Odyssey - 80 percent - Lincoln, Ala.
    Toyota Avalon - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
    Toyota Tundra - 80 percent - San Antonio
    Toyota Venza - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
    http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&subject=ami&story=amMade0709-

    Over 60% of the consumer goods we buy here are made by "U.S." companises which are owned by European conglomerates as subsidiaries, never mind those owned by Japanese companies and elsewhere than Europe. At least U.S. workers have jobs and the investment money comes here (although profits go overseas, of course)--I suppose.

    Just had our Camry accelerator shim placed today after an oil change. Out in 1-1/2 hrs. Excellent auto. Last summer when we were choosing between a Chevy and a Camry, our master mechanic friend from church said it was a "no brainer"-- get the Camry and we'd never see him in the shop, just church.

    Haven't had any further 2006 Canyon problems since pedal malfunction message about six months ago. But I perhaps it is the computer gliching up on start-up. I've three messages and it is only on start-up in cooler, wet weather. I pushed the brake once by mistake when I was turning the key and got a break-error message which disappeared when I turned off and restarted the truck. Idle is GREAT thankfully. Made and operated in Louisiana. But from all the complaints of owners who seem to live up North, maybe it just needs to be run in warmer weather, perhaps to burn off that Ethanol residue, if that has anything to do with it. Also avoiding Ethanol gas whenever possible to avoid sludge build-up.
  • Since my original post (August 09: #368), I've received a few helpful tips, suggestions, and a wealth of information regarding the various problems associated with the GM Chevy Colorado. Thank you to all who have provided insight.

    I contacted GM corporate about my irregular engine starting problems and constant ticking noise. After disclosing my knowledge obtained on this forum of their special warranty policy, a congenial CSR issued me a case and policy number without much hassle and further suggested taking my truck to an authorized dealer to determine whether my mechanical problems were associated with covered provisions.

    Of course, the policy only covers defective designated items (head, valves) which can only be determined after a professional GM mechanic's diagnosis (about $150.00). Upon diagnosis, I was advised that the head and intake valves needed replacement and would be covered (parts, labor) under the special GM policy - fortunately.

    Unfortunately, the dealer has since determined that my ticking noise was associated with a cracked exhaust manifold which will not be covered by GM and will cost me ~ $500.

    I ask all on the forum...how does an exhaust manifold crack? I've never seen a cracked one in 30+ years of tinkering with cars. Cast iron, right?

    Furthermore, I was told that the timing chain needs to be replaced. I've been without a vehicle now for a week and counting (no rental supplied) and as you might imagine, I continue to ponder my purchase of Pandora's box.

    I told GM that I've had the ticking from day one and argued that a cracked exhaust manifold is an inherent defect from the factory, not a wear and tear issue. I pleaded my case for a no cost replacement to no avail as the truck has exceeded (88K) the original warranty. Their CSR said I might try barking up the hill if I could provide documented evidence of the problem within the 3-36 warranty.

    Any suggestions? Is there an end in sight? Anybody familiar with lemon laws? Is a flare my best option?

    Special warranty recipients with engine problems beware!
  • I'm very surprised that people stay faithful to a product that fails on such a grand scale.

    In my last post I commented on my satisfaction with earlier Toyota products. In 1990 the Toyota I bought was bullet proof. The 1998 Corolla was up there at 90%.
    Although I found that car annoyingly underpowered for freeway travel, I didn't keep it long, I bought a Mazda. In 2003 I bought a new Matrix, clever design but also underpowered for the mass. I had a 2007 Tacoma SR5 Access cab for two years which I liked. I would still have it but the fuel costs were alarming back during 2008 when it peaked at $1.47 per litre. My monthly commuting costs were outrageous. From an environmental standpoint its shear glutony to commute in a 6cyl or 8cyl anyway so parting with the Tacoma was not difficult.

    I remember, more than once, talking with staff at Toyota dealerships saying the quality was not top notch like it used to be. Something deteriorated when the Cambridge plant opened in the late 90's, growing pains maybe? The tacoma is a California assembly so has the North American input spoiled the quality? Maybe.

    Now, the garage has two Mazda's parked in it. Both made in Japan and sent here assembled. Very happy with them both.
    The reports on this site for owners of Canyons and Colorados have been a flashback to the days of dealing with the terrible Ford Ranger truck :lemon: I bought in 1990.
    Thankyou all for helping me with this decision. I hope you have 100% success at the dealership repairing your GM trucks- Canyons and Colorados. :)
  • I'm surprised that people still believe the myth that Asian products are far superior to American products. This current problem with Toyota is not the first time. Back about 2000, Toytota had massive problems with engine sludging because of a design flaw in the engines. Toyota refused to step up to the plate and fix the problem until a class action lawsuit was threatened. They chose instead to claim that thousands of owners simply were not maintaining their cars properly. So much for the Toyota myth.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    the problem with Asian products is that they are NOT superior to the products from the big 3 its that every problem with them is that it has always been reported in the back of the newspapers instead of the front pages like everytime the big 3 hiccup it is page one news. The big 3 has been the top companies for so long that news and TV love to hit them when they are down causing all this false bull about them being bad products. They made some bad stuff for a while back in the 80's but it didn't take to long for them to figure out that it hurt the bottom line (profit) but thanks to the news they were never given the chance to redeam themselves until wallstreet created the big mess with no credit so no one could buy a new car hence their downfall. If you really followed the news you would have known that the [non-permissible content removed] lost many billions too, but their govenments helped them out where ours choose to let them sink before helping them. Problem is the young people were never taught to buy american products from american companies as this is what benefits this country not sending all their money to Japan or somewhere else. Yes the Chevy colorado/Gmcs may not be perfect but you always will know when you step on the brake that it is going to stop. I don't care what Toyota does with all their lying through the years telling their customers that there is no problems that it is their fault that now they tell us that they have fixed the problems that just happen to be on almost every vehicle they build that everything is going to be fine. I bet that in 2 years this same stuff will come back again to haunt them as I don't believe they have fixed the problems. Example, my sister had a 80's Camry that looked great but her mechanic told her on its last oil change the underside framework was so rusted he felt it was unsafe to drive. Then in the early 2000s Toy0ota had rust problems on their truck frames and fixed them for people who knew about it and claimed that all was now well only to find out that it is still a problem with new trucks along with driveshafts that are failing and breaking apart. Just think what could happen if the driveshaft gives away at 70 mph. You could end up being a world class pole vaulter going down the highway.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Had a pastor who just couldn't buy a Japanese product because of WWII. (But he never said he couldn't buy a German product.) Toyata Camry AND Canyon both running fine here. I once owned Ford Pinto (gas tank), Chevy X car with the poor paint finish (the finish started rusting out at two years), a 1992 Dodge van (same problem) and a 1996 Ford Taurus (ignition switch unprotected hanging down at the bottom of the engine block and bad head gasket). Japanese products are at least no worse.
  • I have a 05 colorado and the check engine light stays on. replaced O2 sensor because the codes read PO1133 which is insufficient switching sensor bank 1 or sensor 1. This didn't work. Thought is was the O2 sensor took it back and got 1 from GM and I still have the same problem. Anyone have any suggestions???
  • Hello, I have a 2005 GMC Canyoun and I have been having some problems with it. For the past few months the engine would turn over but would not fire up, if I left it alone and came back 30 minutes later it would crank right up. Well now it will not crank at all and the dealership is telling me that it is the starter. Would the engine intake valve warranty extension have anything to do with this? Maybe because the engine wouldnt fire up and the starter kept trying to crank the truck it wore it out? Now they are saying 1500 bucks to fix. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • Josh,

    Sorry to say, I wish you good luck. In previous postings, I mention experiencing the exact problem as you. There are other Forum posts identifying similar Colorado start-up problems, speculating everything from cam shaft actuators to fuel pumps to theft deterrent device fuel cut-offs to injectors -- you name it, the list is large and the problem diagnosis remains undetermined. I had a GM engineer tell me it could be a defective key fob.

    Over a period of several weeks during the summer, I experienced irregular no-start issues, although the truck would later start after approximately a 15-20 minute waiting period. The problem ceased for awhile but happened again in December and went away like a recurring phantom. My GM dealer had the truck for 2 weeks and could not repeat the symptom or ID any codes associated with problem.

    I subsequently called GM to complain and inquired about the special warranty after reading about it on the Forum. They issued a policy# no questions asked so I took the truck back the dealer. The head and valves were determined to be in need of replacement, as well as a cracked exhaust manifold.

    I haven't experienced the no-start gremlin since December, but I now have a mostly rebuilt engine since I took the initiative to contact GM. I suggest you call GM if your truck is under 100K to get the warranty policy and have a dealer check it out ASAP so that you won't take a bigger hit down the road.

    No one can say if this issue was the monkey wrench causing my starting issues but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

    Good luck.
  • jimmygedjimmyged Posts: 8
    My 05 Colorado with the I5 engine coded "misfire" on me. At about 59k on the warranty. I brought it to the dealer right away were they told me it needed a new head job. This was completly under warranty. OK they do the head and I am a happy customer, they cought a big one before the warranty is up at 60k. Now it is at 61k not even 2 thousand miles after they did the job and it is misfiring worse than ever! It`s running on 3 cyls! The dealer say`s if it was from their work it will be covered, but if not it`s on me! Has anybody like me already had the head replaced and now has a worse skip than ever? I cannot even drive this to the stealer I will have to tow it down on monday! By the way when I first got it back it was running like a bull, I could tell it had so much more compression in it. It was running very strong and I had no real issuses with this truck. I am very mechaniclly inclined and do all my own PM on it. So has anybody alread had their head replaced and now has even more problems with this engine? I am wondering if I should just unload this thing before I get the big one tucked to me!
  • Same problem with our 05 Colorado. Check Engine light kept coming on - had valves raplaced. Came back on again - finally diagnosed as a cracked manifold. Truck has 110,000 (90% highway). Will start the fight with GM, but don't see them doing anything. Will probably get the same crap about it being over the warranty, but how often do manifold crack ??
  • Actually, cracked exhaust manifolds on trucks built since the 1970s are pretty common, especially those that are used for towing. Keep in mind that these vehicles have a smog pump which pumps cold air into the manifold when on compression. Typically what happens is that the manifold gets very hot pulling heavy loads up a hill, then cold air hits it on the downhill slope, and crack. At least that's what I was told, and with cast iron, it makes sense. Of course, your truck may not have been used for heavy loads, in which case my post is nonsense. :-)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,108
    Hello,
    I am from GM Customer Service. When did the problems first occur with your vehicle? Do you currently have a case with GM? If so, what is the case number? What is the VIN on the vehicle? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • lhouselhouse Posts: 1
    my 05 canyon did it tow times then one day it lost power for two blocks than ran fine take it to dealer found it needed a fuel pump.
  • bill274bill274 Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Have an 08 canyon ( 5cyl) bought used from dealership. About 6 months ago I started smelling a strong gas oder at start up. Will take it to dealership as soon as the weather warms up so I can ride my motercycle, can not get loner vehicle form dealership. Has anyone experienced this problem? Called dealership,they say they have never heard of this before. Thanks
  • scobertscobert Posts: 1
    Yes, clean the throttle body. It is so simple to do, follow the instructions provided by longrunner1. Don't let a repair shop tell you that you need a new throttle body, like mine did. Just remove and clean it. Did it this weekend. Runs like new and no check engine light.
  • tallowtallow Posts: 1
    Not sure where to even begin or what post to even put this under. Several months ago my husbands 2005 GMC Canyon's check engine light came on. We took it to our trusted mechanic and he told us that it had a vaccume leak according to the codes. It idles really rough and sometimes dies at stop lights. After a week he still couldn't find the leak. After two weeks the engine started "clunking" when put into drive or reverse. At first we thought we might need to replace the transmission but yesterday it started whistling and squeeling really loudly when the gas was applied but stopped when pressure to the gas was removed. We wondered if it would do this while in park and nothing, until we rocked the vehicle a little, the clanking seemed to be coming from the joint at the drive shaft connect? Any idea's?? We only have two payments left and the vehicle has 70,000 miles on it.
  • Throttle body yes- from what you're describing, also check u-joints and the driveshaft carrier bearing. The clunk sounds like a u-joint to me; the factory ones aren't greaseable, so when you get new ones, make sure they have grease fittings. (220k miles and still going!)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,108
    Hello Tallow,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
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