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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • Well guys and girls as I said, I took my vehicle in to the dealership, come to find out it wasn't the valve seat wear that the letter speaks about. They had to replace the cam shaft actuator solenoid on the motor. They claim that I had a very bad oil build-up. It looked to them like I wasn't changing my oil, which I was but just not enough. So it caused very bad build up inside the motor. I don't want to get into very deep details about the cam shaft and what was wrong with it, but some of u would probably know. So, they gave me a price of 600.00 to fix it :mad: . This is with them flushing the motor, oil change labor parts and all that good stuff. I told them, I don't have 600 bucks, can u do something else to it that will lower the price? I said just put the part on and change the oil. They did, total cost 363.04. Still to high when u don't have the money, but I had to have it fix, before I had to replace the motor. U better believe this has tought me a lesson. Keep Your Oil Changed. So now I got to try and change my oil every 2-3 months. Man, I had tears in my eyes, when they were telling me what the cost was going to be. Do anyone no what is a good solution to put in the engine to break down oil build up? I thought about some (DAWN Dish Detergent) ;) But, I hope this help guys.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Well, regarding the "bad gas" idea, perhaps it is the way the truck's computer brain is reading on start up? Bought mine from the first-time owner at 22,000 mi this past May 2009 (he bought it in April 2006--so it was past the 3 yr warranty as I found out--but you've all said there are other longer warranties). On each of the three times it has given the Reduced Power, the gas tank has been 1/4 or slightly less AND it has been early morning when it is cooler. Once or twice with the emissions light on. Went to the gas station, filled it up, and both were off on start up with a full tank. Is it possible that it is "bad gas" in the sense that perhaps there is some humidity in the gas line--wherever the computer reads it? (Obviously I am both a car and computer neophyte.) NOw at 35,000 mi and time for another oil change. How many miles before a tune up?
  • I have had my 2006 Colorado I5 3.5L 4x4 for about a year and a half. It has got just over 88000 miles on it. I am from Canada, but i bought my truck from the states with 47000 miles. (went to school for a year, was driving back and forth everyday) Everything was all good, i loved my truck, but lately, in about the last 3 months or so they check engine light has been coming on for a few days at a time, then going out for a day or two, just to come right back on. My boyfriend works for a tow truck company/service shop and he hooked the scanner up to my truck, which revealed a random cylinder misfire code (i believe its code PO300) We did the diagnostic test, it came out fine when i was driving, no misfire, but when it is idling i has a major misfire in cyl. 3. I changed all the spark plugs, no luck, changed the plug in 3 again figuring maybe it was a bad plug.. nope!
    One of the mechanics at my boyfriends work told me to take the coil pack from cyl 1 and put it into 3, and switch them around. I did that, no such luck. Still misfires in 3. I have been putting mid-grade gas and occassionally injector cleaner into the truck.. it seemed to help at first, but now it doesn't. I have changed the coil pack on 3.. but nothing. I am really getting frustrated with this. I love my truck and don't want to get rid of it. But there are no recalls about this issue, and typically, my warranty JUST ended. I really do not know what to do. I cannot afford to pay 4 grand to get this fixed, but i am afraid that if it goes unsolved then it will lead to way bigger issues. Is there anyone else having this problem?
    Luckily, i have not had any other issues with my truck, so i am grateful for that.

    Please help me!! :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    If you have a misfire at idle, with no engine load, I would tend to be suspicious of a vacuum leak, intake manifold leak, that sort of thing--in other words, leaking atmospheric air that is screwing up the air/fuel mixture.


  • i'm sorry, i know a bit about vehicles, but not enough.. How would i go about fixing this issue then? My grandpa told me to do a compression test, and then one of the guys i work for (i work in a parts store) told me that i should do a leak test.. But this doesn't tell me how to fix this.
    Thanks for your input Mr. Shiftright. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Testing for vacuum leaks might best be left to someone who knows how to do that. Basically you are looking for areas where outside air can get sucked into the engine above and beyond what it is mixing itself in the proper amounts. Mechanics use a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks, or a propane tank, the idea being that the smoke is inhaled by the engine at a vacuum leak point, at idle,(and you can see that happening) or that the engine takes in the propane gas and starts to speed up at idle.

    Too much of an air leak will screw up the idle mixture, leaning out the mixture (normally about 14 parts air to one part fuel) and causing a misfire.

    So at least you know the principles now of what the problem might be.


  • Thank you very much. I will inquire about this with the GM garage in town here..

    Hopefully it will stop this issue.

    Thanks Again!!! Its greatly appreciated. :)
  • don't know what year your truck is. I have a 2009 Canyon which had problems with engine stalling as well. Turns out their was a recall for some engine part. Sorry I don't remember the name, but the recall can be looked up. In any case, once this part was replaced my truck now runs great.
  • they replace the cam shaft actuator on my truck and they said I had oil build up engine that caused it to stall and sputter. so they replaced that and it's been working pretty good so far.
  • I have an 05 Colorado. The same thing happened to my truck and we are so blessed to have an honest mechanic. He let me know that he thought there was a recall; which i am the only owner of the vehicle and i have never received nor did i see anything on line about it. He spoke with the local dealership and they confirmed it was under a "special policy." They fixed the cylinder head for free. If my mechanic was not honest we would have spent somewhere around 2500 to maybe 3500 on this problem.

    The dealership could not give me a copy of this policy and i am trying to still get a hold of this special policy. I got my tuck back today and i am taking it back to my mechanic to make sure they did everything correctly. After that i am going to contact our local news. I think that this is outrageous that 100's of maybe 1000's are paying for this out of pocket because the manufacturer is not making people aware of the problem they created. It took a MONTH for me to get my truck back. I am grateful and praise God that we did not have to pay for this out of pocket however the dealership didn't give me a replacement vehicle either. If my brother in law and i did not work together i would have spend just as much on a rental vehicle as i would have getting my vehicle fixed. They wouldn't even discount a rental vehicle price.

    I hope this issue gets out there. If i get a hold of the special policy i will send it to you in an email my email is Send me yours. This is a big problem it is a misfire in your cylinder head and can cause your whole head to have to be replaced if it is not taken care of. I suggest you call the dealership and check to see with your vin if it is under the special policy and then bring it there to get checked out. Try not to drive it as much as you can.
  • Well, I took mine to a dealership, they fix this thing call a cam shaft actuator. Says that is what cause my truck to do what it was doing. I don't believe it, but it stop the problem. O.K. my thing is I called GMC about the recall, and it's like they don't want to do the recall :mad: , they called the dealership and spoke with them about what they done to the truck, gmc tells me that the CSA didn't have anything to do with the recall, so I lost on that :cry: . even though my truck was doing everything that the recall had stated, they still will not do the recall part. The dealership said I had oil sludge buildup that was causing the problem, where I wasn't changing my oil. Now that really pist me off :mad: . I know I was changing my oil, but not as regular as I should have. My thing is if you got a recall why not fix the problem, before it does greater damage. I found the paper on the recall and everything, but they still want do the recall. I told them about it takes at least now, 2-3 miles before it shifts out the 4th gear. What is causing that, I don't know. This started happening about 2 years ago. GMC wants me to take it back and let them check it out again, and I got to pay them again just to do that, heck nah!!!. I told GMC don't worry about it. I'll just drive it until it tear up. then maybe they will know exactly what the problem is.
  • I also have a paper of the recall, like i said in my earlier message. If you want a copy of it, let me know. I don't know what good it will do, with my name on it. email me at and let me know.
  • Me 2, Thanks longrunner1, I own a 2005 Colorado Xtreme Quadcab I-5 and has 55,000 miles on it and had the low idle Check Engine light with code P0506 (low idle rpm) After following instructions my CEL is now gone and idle is smooth at 700rpm instead of that very rough and shaky 500rpm. Nice to have a dark dashboard at night time without any CEL's anymore! Thanks for the great instructions, glad I didnt have to take it to a dealer for them to start replacing random overpriced parts to try to troubleshoot this "rare" problem...haha.

    Once I fixed this my drivers side window quit working with power locks. I have had 3 of the main problems listed on this site. The 3rd issue I had is the blower not working at 1-3 but only at 4. I hope to tackle those 2 issues this week. There seems to be good info about the heater blower, not sure about the electrical issue besides some "maybe fixes" things I can try.
  • Had the driver-s side window issue; if i remember right i disconnected the control module a couple times, disconnected the battery and let everything reset, and haven't had a problem since. Cause was a weak battery- the high compression on the engine takes a lot of juice to start, and the battery can't handle it- I changed to a high cap. regular lead acid batt. from O'Reilly's Auto parts, instead of the expensive gel-cell unit. They upgraded the alternator on later models to a higher amperage- but I haven't had an issue since changing the battery. The blower motor issue is a burnt connector going to the blower ballast resistor pack- you can get the connector online or maybe at a decent NAPA store for half the dealer cost - get the resistor pack too. This was related to the weak battery issue- low system voltage after starting, then flipping the blower on right away causes excessive current draw and heats up the connector, which melts and goes runaway till it fails.
  • Why lord, I didn't find this forum earlier? It would have saved me at least 200.00 bucks. The part and labor to replace the Cam Shaft Actuator, cost me 363.04 :sick: . This part is what the recall should have been on, not the engine intake valve seat. GMC is a sorry company :mad: . That's why it pays to be able to work on your own vehicle, or take it to a mac. that know a little. Hope you guys have good luck, and I pray that my vehicle will last until I get the cash to fix the next problem.
  • They did not give me my money back. Sorry piece of @@@@.
  • bneelbneel Posts: 1
    Has anyone gotten an attorney for any of these problems with the engine head? I have a 2005 colorado and one of the valves burnt through the #1 cylinder and never received any recall notice or a bulletin notice. I had it to a gm dealer twice and the second time they said it would cost up to $5000.00 to fix the motor but at that point could not tell us exactly what it was until they could tear it apart. The VIN numbers fall in between the other VIN numbers that were suppose to be fixed for free. When GM headquarters was called regarding all of this they refused to fix it since the mileage was over 100,000 miles. An suggestions from anyone?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    The defect concerned porous Castech heads, so since you burned a valve, this might not be related. But even if it was related, you are long out of warranty, so I don't see any possible solution for you other than to fix the problem at your own expense; however, $5000 for a pair of heads seems way too much. I'd definitely shop around at good independent shops.

    Your heads might be fine. Maybe it's just a situation that requires a valve job. The heads can be tested at a machine shop once they are off.


  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Also, check out the salvage yards. There maybe a wrecked Colarado or Canyon where you can get a used engine. Good luck.
  • Ok, so i had posted a message on here a few months ago about how my '06 Colorado has a misfire in cylinder 3 at idle. Well, still haven't gotten that issue fixed, but now, i noticed last night that when i'm doing about 90 Km the RPM's tend to fluctuate between 1700 and 2500. Like the idle is kicking itself up. Its really weird, and it has never done this before. My step-dad, who is a mechanic, told me to try to not drive it and take it to the GM dealer in town. So i think i am going to have to.
    Also, last night my dad and I did a compression test, and nothing seems out of the ordinary. Cyl 1: 195 ; Cyl 2: 175 ; Cyl 3: (surprisingly) 165 ; Cyl 4: 193 ; Cyl 5: 195.
    Like i said, they are all within normal range.

    And 2 other problems i have been noticing lately: The passenger seat sensor seems to not work sometimes. My boyfriend will be sitting right next to me and it says the air bag is off and that no one is sitting there, the buckle up light doesn't flash, but in the dash it is lit up(not flashing). (i don't have the option to turn the air bag on and off. if someone is sitting in the seat it comes on, if there's no one then its off.)
    And the last issue is that my 4-way button seems to stick. I don't know why, no sticky foods or drinks have been near it. And we're not rough on it or anything.. so i don't get it. I'm starting to think that these trucks should be taken off the market. The seem to have TOO many problems. :sick:

    Any info, or any of the same issues that some else is having would be helpful. At least i will know i am not the only one having these problems. Plus, I cannot afford to take it to the dealer. I know that will cost lotsa $$$$$.

    Thank you!!
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