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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I'm guessing your truck is out of warranty so my question is this. You say your step-dad is a mechanic so why would you want to take it to a dealer and pay through the nose instead of lettind Daddy dear fix it?
  • If you have an automatic transmission, sounds like your truck is dropping in and out of overdrive.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Shifty", keep in mind that the Canyon/Colorado engines are both "in-lines", so there's only one cylinder head.....

    It IS however, an overhead cam design, so it's a bit "pricier" that a typical OHV head.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Passion", with respect to the shift into 4th gear, keep in mind that until the engine is up to full operating temperature, which can take a while if the weather is cold, the truck will not go into overdrive. My '97 Chevy S-10 4x4 was like that, and my currently owned '05 Canyon 4x4 operates the same way.
  • cuz he is really busy currently, and because i don't know if he's ever worked on the engine of a truck like mine.. i don't want him to f it up... plus, gm mechanics SHOULD know what they are doing. I hope. Besides, i have some connections at our local gm dealership, so i think that i am going to just try to get the truck hooked up to their scanner because i know that it will give more detailed info as to what exactly is wrong with the truck.. lol :)
  • Right you are. So it sounds like a sticking valve or a bad intake leak, maybe?
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Shifty", I was just browsing a couple of the "discount" GM parts site on the net, looking for parts for my car. This Canyon/Colorado cylinder head discussion struck my memory, so I looked it up.

    A 5 cyl. head is "discount priced" at $875 plus shipping. The 4 cyl. head is about $100 less. Valves are $14 and $16 for intake/exhaust, respectively.

    To the poster, keep in mind, these prices are for brand new parts, but labor, of course, is extra. However, what I'm getting at, is an entirely new cylinder head should be around $12-1400, and I would think a competent mechanic should be able to do the job in 8-10 hrs.
  • I wonder if you found (and fixed) the problem that you had starting your 04 Colorado. I have a 05 Colorado 4wd, and every so often it fails to start. It sounds like it has no gas, or there's no current going to the spark plugs (it just turns but won't start).
    After a few minutes and few attempts, it starts and runs fine until the problem happens again.
    If you (or anybody reading this posting) finally found out what the problem was, could you advise on how to fix it?
  • Hello,
    You were having rough, shaky idle at 500 rpm? I have a 06 colorado extended cab 4x4. Has 90200 miles on it. When it idles it idles at 700 rpm, and it is quite rough, so i leave my foot on the gas idling about 1000 rpm, seems to help, until i take my foot off, and it goes down to about 300 rpm, then brings itself back up to normal. It has been cold here (like -45 with the windchill) and i do plug the truck in at night, but during the day when i am working and have no where to plug in it gets bloody cold. (no winter front on YET, but have one and putting it on tonight, hopefully it will make a big difference!!) And the past few days i have started the truck, and it runs REALLY rough, like shaking and sputtering, occasionally the CEL flashes at me, so i immediately turn the truck off, turn the key to ON, let everything cycle and then start it. Once started i hold the throttle so it idles at about 1500 rpm. This seems to alleviate the issue, until next time. But last night i went to leave, and had only let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes, threw her into reverse, and tried to go. It sputtered, shook, and i thought it was going to stall, but once again, the CEL light flashed at me. I did my little routine of turning it off, etc etc etc. The truck did this to me 1 or 2 more times. It is like it is starving for fuel. But with these trucks, it is not possible to change the fuel filter unless you take the fuel tank out and replace the pump... (stupid GM design).

    I am really getting fed up with this truck. I have only had it for a year and a half!!!
    This is the 3rd issue that i have posted on this forum, none of which are solved yet.

    :mad: :sick: :cry:
  • That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 201k miles, better change mine again.
  • That is the problem i gave the fix for awhile back in this post-(I gave detailed instructions, search by my username)- you need to clean the throttle valve body- carbon buildup is causing the butterfly not to seat correctly and throwing the idle circuit off. As far as the fuel filter goes- what idiot told you it was inside the gas tank? it's inside the frame in front of the tank; has 2 squeeze clips and can be changed in 5 minutes- reminds me, I'm at 210k miles, better change mine again
  • well, see, about the fuel filter.. I work in a parts store and i checked in our cataloging, for an 06 colorado, 3.5 L 5 cyl, 4x4, etc, there is no listing for exterior fuel filters. There is a note beside where the part number should be which reads "in order to change the fuel filter, the fuel pump must be changed. Because it is located in the gas tank."
    I found this statement in Wiki-answers when i searched fuel filter in 06 chevy colorado:
    For the 04-05 Colorado, the filter is attached to the front of the gas tank by a black plastic "harness." It's clearly visible with a quick glance under the truck, on the driver's side. It'll have a black line going in and one coming out. It is recommended that they be changed every 25,000 miles, according to the GM maintenance schedule.
    For the 06+ models, the fuel filter is inside the gas tank and is supposed to be maintenance free.

    Plus, from my inspections under the truck, i have not located the filter, and I know what to look for.
    I will double check with my mechanic tho, but i am damn sure that they are only in the tank.. sorry to say.

  • My truck keeps increasing and decreasing on the rpm at idle. I took it to O'Reillys" and they gave me the codes P0449/P0455. I believe it is a vacuum leak but I see no problems with any lines. Can someone please help me out? The truck only has 60,000 miles on it.
  • Yep, those codes suggest a vacuum leak in the EVAP system:


    * To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light. Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals will allow less pressure into the EVAP system. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
    * A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
    * To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT.
    * Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
  • RUN do not walk to the dealer - there is a problem with the cylinder head but they just told be it would be $2300 to fix because they have a special warrentee program for this problem (the intake valves get burned by ethanol laced fuel which cause carbon buildup in the throttle body and other problems) but once the odometer clicks over 100K they will not touch it, so I missed it by a month .. dont make the same mistake
  • I don't think so. The diagram I have shows the fuel filter alongside the gas tank in its own bracket.
  • i donno, i will have to check it out when i get a chance to get the truck on the hoist. But i would think that my cataloging at work would show a filter for the truck if it had one.. but i swear, nothing comes up. I will check if anything comes up for an 05, maybe it will. Who knows.

    And as for running to the dealer instead of walking, i am too late. Truck has 90300 miles on it, that is about 150,000 kms... =(
    Unfortunately i am too late. I was going to school everyday last year, so i put ALOT of miles on the truck. (about 3 hours of driving everyday minus weekends and holidays)

    Thanks anyways! :)
  • I am curious about this- ethanol isn't "laced" in fuel, it exists in almost all fuel sold today, exept at some marinas where they sell ethanol-free fuel from some older boats(expensive). All vehicles built in the last 10 years at least have been engineered to run with a percentage of ethanol in the fuel.
  • It's a question of the percentage of ethanol used.
  • are you sure about this?? Please I pray that you are right. You don't think it has anything to do with the speed sensor or I may need to have the transmission flushed or anything like that?? You think it has a lot to do with the cold weather, and the engine has to be at a certain temperature? I was going to take it to a machanic tomorrow and let him run some test. I just spent 368.00 to have the cam shaft actuator replaced. I'm gonna still do some research also. Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
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