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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • rj1958rj1958 Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    I bought my ,04 Colorado from dealer inventory June of '05,since then it's had two recalls that have been taken care of (Engine, Fuel Cap) have yet to receive any notice on or about the light problem. never the less last month the fan stopped working PERIOD my service tech troubleshot the complete system too find no problems so we decided to replace fan motor STILL ONLY WORKS intimately. back in '06 the dealer replaced the fan switch so I thought only to find that connection was taped (don’t know why) the dealer had it for 2 days and told me they replaced the switch. brought it back several times for two very annoying rattles inside the cab, the service writer went with me twice and twice they held it over night only to be told they couldn’t "duplicate " the problem. same with the rattle coming from under the hood. not too mention I’m forever changing light bulbs. BUT TODAY 9/7/10 was the straw that broke the camels back on my way home from the shop today (fan still) the engine just started skipping was lucky to get it home. In dyer need of answers this is getting costly seeing the vehicle has and still is well maintained!!.
  • jsassjsass Posts: 1
    Bought a 2005 Chevy Colorado from Ed Morse in WPB FL, when they closed, they threw out all their records. I found out afterwards also they sold me a truck that had been a rental, so every jerk that got thrown out of his apartment, rented my truck for the day before I got it. At 29K engine misfired on #4. Throttle body cleaning, injector cleaning didn't work. waited 2 months wiht it in the shop to replace the cylinder head, still does it. Poor gas mileage, had two dealerships and three local guys repair it, clsoe to a thousand bucks lighter each time. Each time they reset the computer and within a few weeks light comes on again. Engine runs rough, poor mileage. This morning, rpms all over between 600 and 300 trying in gear, thought I was going to die. This truck has been a problem since I got it and it stays fixed for a couple weeks and the light comes back on.
  • Ri1958 mentions a fuel cap recall. Does anyone know the details of this recall, or maybe a recall for the truck? My 05 Colorado Z71 might be the worst vehicle I've ever owned (running a close 2nd to an 88 Bonneville). It's clearly a lemon with many electrical problems.

    Recently, my Fuel Cap warning light displayed, went off after a restart and then came on again a week later. After shut down and restarting 2 hours later, the engine light came on. The engine light went off for awhile but has since come on again. The Fuel Cap light goes on and off irregularly. Is this an electrical problem or actual problem (I did read code P0455: EVAP System Leak)? A GM mechanic advised that it's $600 for the test to determine what parts need replacing! Apparently, there are a number of parts that, if defective, will trigger code P0455.

    The no-start Gremlin also showed up again on 10/15/10 after an extended absence. I’ve had inadvertent no-start symptoms for over 2+ years but the problem has never been determined or discovered by the dealer (they had the truck for over a week once). Of course, GM will not cover this issue because I can not provide proof the problem was first addressed within factory warranty.

    There are numerous posts on Edmunds forum about the no-start Gremlin, Jhacket (reply 505) and crashrecovery (507) most recently. Why won’t GM acknowledge this problem? Can anyone provide more information about codes B2960 or B1383 mentioned by crashrecovery? Are these codes the actual problem and how much will it cost to fix? Does anyone know if GM will cover this problem as a known defect?

    My ABS Fault warning light has also displayed on and off since 8/2008 approximately 1 month after the dealer did a brake job. They claimed it had nothing to do with their work but they were happy to advise that the right front hub wheel bearing assembly and sensor needed replacement ($800+). I replaced the parts for less, albeit not at the dealer, yet the warning light still came on and the ABS braking still didn’t work. I tried replacing the sensor again and now the ABS braking kicks in inadvertently on dry pavement, then the light comes on and the ABS stops functioning. What gives?

    Clearly, these trucks have major defects, many of them electrical. This truck is bleeding me, as I’ve easily invested close to $2G in repairs beyond the factory warranty, and that doesn’t cover the GM costs within warranty.

    Since 05, I’ve had problems with:
    4W self engagement
    Tie rods (replacement within 20K)
    Transfer case control module & leakage
    Front axle seal leakage
    Emergency flasher module self activation
    Various squeaks
    Trailer hitch harness inoperable
    Defective front seat cover
    Throttle body, actuator
    Injector feed wire breakage
    Brake lamp switch
    Radio display
    Radio Bezel
    Cylinder head and intake valve replacement
    Cracked manifold
    ABS braking system default
    EVAP system default

    Is this normal or does anyone know if I might qualify for the Fed lemon law. I was a previous S-10 owner and only experienced typical maintenance, wear and tear problems.

    Seeking inexpensive help or suggestions. Any answers are appreciated. Thanks.
  • Toyota Tacoma wins 'Hands Down' - No Comparison.
    Government Motors ploy to discredit Toyota in order to keep
    General Motors employee retirement funds financed.
    Apple Pie & Chevrolet no longer relate. If Toyota is out of the question - Transfer to Ford. No government ownership involved there.
  • mxer2mxer2 Posts: 2
    I hate to say it, but your issues are a faded nightmare, as I too had the same issues you speak of with my 05 Colorado. My best advice would be to get rid of it as quick as possible. I find myself up side down in my current vehicle, but so much easier to deal with a bigger payment, than those repair bills on top of current payment. Colorado's are just junk, although there are some people whom have them and don't have the problems, but seems a rare find. Again, with the problems your dealing with at this point, it will only continue, and from what I've read, there is no help from GM on its way..cut your loses and move on..good luck to you
  • jpep1jpep1 Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anybody can help me before i bring my truck to a dealer I have an 04 colorado and the truck does not go over 30mph, the indicator reads reduced power. Can anyone relate to the same problem?
  • You are as miserable as I have been the last 3 years. I have a 2006 GMC Canyon. It has a 2.8 liter 4 cylinder. It never runs good. It idles rough. The check engine light is off and on all the time. The last time I brought the truck in it was some actuator and they cleaned my throttle body and adjusted the fuel with a computer. Costed me over 310.00. It fixed the problem for a while. Now it's doing it again. I brought it back to them and they said I needed to replace my whole fuel system. From my fuel pump, injectors, lines cleared and new fuel rails. I don't know who to believe anymore. This truck has cost me a mint. I had a 1998 Isuzu Hombre and put 538,000 miles on it and never had problems with it. What kind of junk had GM built here? :sick:
  • I have an 06 GMC Canyon and I am having the same problem with my blower motor. The blower only blows on the high speed. My driver side light olso fogs up. I am also having a bad idle problem. It misses horribly at idle. Does anybody know why. I would love to know why it does this.
  • It takes those few seconds for the oil to get pumped into the engine parts. That means for 2 seconds your mechanical part are going oiless.
  • Yeah it is 436045744. Verify please.
  • Is this cam shaft actuator fix these dealerships have been doing to peoples vehicles a big coverup for something GM is trying to hide. Would a cam shaft actuator make an engine run good for a while if it was another problem all together. Somebody please investigate this. I am tired of replacing cam shaft actuators. Maybe GM needs to buyback all these vehicle lemons.
  • That is all bullcrap about not changing your oil enough. My story is exactly like yours. I got the letter and they said my truck did not have that problem, but the camshaft actuator needed to be replaced. I change my oil every 2 weeks. I have a delivery service. Your truck will do this again. I tell you, GM is covering something up with these cam shaft actuators. It's a quick fix to a more serious, costlier problem that they don't want to foot the bill on. That actuator hides the problem for awhile. I now have 186,000 on my 06 GMC Canyon and it is doing the same thing. It started about 7 months after the first cam shaft actuator. I refuse to put anymore money into this truck until GM fesses up to this. I WANT RESULTS. NOW :shades:
  • I completely gave up with my Chevy dealer service. I changed my 2008 Colorado 3.7 motor oil to Castrol Synthetic 5-30 and an OE Delco filter. The tapping noise after cold start is currently gone. Synthetic is a superior lubricant.

    I will keep all informed on the status.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    I apologize for your experience. If you would like to e-mail me your VIN I would be happy to look into recall information for you.
    GM Customer Service
  • If so, I’m screwed!
    I bought a used 2005 Colorado Z-71 I-5 in July 2009 with 29,000 miles. It came with the CUV warranty 12/12k miles. I noticed a rough idle earlier this year and asked the dealer to diagnose while it was in for an unrelated service. They offered me a fuel injector cleaning service which I declined in lieu of some fuel injector cleaner. I’m out of warranty at this point, and the truck runs terrible. The idle fluctuates erratically to the point that the lights dim a stop lights and check engine light is on almost constantly.
    What should I do?
  • ridinbaselineridinbaseline Posts: 4
    edited December 2010
    Hey Man, you should clean your mass air flow sensor and clean the Throttle Body...Seriously, my truck was idling rough with the rpms jumping and it stalled a few times while stopping...mass air flow sensor cleaner at autozone and take the throttle body off and clean it well with throttle body cleaner!
    If that doesn't do it...change the fuel filter...then maybe O2 sensor...but hopefully the MAFS and TB cleaning do the trick
  • I think you have a bad connection to the blower motor and I think it is behind the glove box...I'm having the same problem right now, but I am yet to fix it...soon truck was idling rough for a while and I cleaned the throttle body and Mass air flow sensor and it pepped up in a major way...currently I am having another kind of idle issue...but you should definitely clean those items!
  • My I suggest Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I have found it helps.
  • Agreed. My Question to you is when you fire it up in a cold start and wait, does it take awhile for your oil to read correctly on the dip stick? I changed my oil and ran it for sometime, it took quite a long time for it to read correctly. I run lucas stabilizer to help.
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