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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Well I understand how annoying this is, but in fact the trouble codes don't tell you which part is defective. No car computer can do that (yet). The trouble codes only tell us which system or circuit is in distress. So if say your trouble code was related to an 02 sensor, this doesn't mean the 02 sensor is just means something is making the 02 sensor read outside its normal range. Could be the 02 sensor, could be a bad fuel injector, could be a bad catalytic converter, could be a bad ignition coil.

    So while I do agree with you that they shouldn't charge you $100 bucks just to READ the code, if they are charging you $100 to diagnose the actual problem--such as testing the 02 sensor, etc) and isolate the actual defective component, then that's fair enough.


  • Make sure that your gas cap fits tight.
  • I have not taken the truck to a dealer yet, San Diego County is outrageous with $108.00/hr for labor. I replaced the factory battery today; drove for 20 minutes straight with no check engine ligth or reduced power. I have not had any codes stored like the last time. Last code stored was P0606/ PCM. Has this fixed the reduced power? I dont have $1000 for a dealership to fix this.

    San Diego GM dealership:

    PCM: $410.00 , core $75.00
    Programming: $108.00
    Labor for R&R of PCM: 1.5 hrs at $108.00/hr
    and of course tax at 7.75%
  • We're glad to hear you found a fix for your vehicle! Hopefully this issue is cleared up for you for a while!
    If we can ever be of assistance, don't hesitate to get in touch via email.
    GM Customer Service
  • drvettedrvette Posts: 99
    edited February 2012
    As an old Wrench since the 60's I can tell you why the dealer charges for this. Many people for decades would get a "Free" estimate of repairs then fix it themselves.

    The "C" note they're charging is the 1-Hr[or whatever] minimum time.

    The code P0785 is pointing at a "Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction"
    The code PO2610 is One digit too many for the OBD-II system, you did a typo, or the dude gave you the wrong code
    The code PO261 says the "1 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low"

    As said previously, WHY these codes are showing up is a matter for a trained technician, a GM Service Manual and a Quality Scan Machine.

    Several Non-Obvious issues many mechanics miss.

    1st -
    I coined "Invisible Corrosion" a condition where the connector male and female terminals ARE tight yet fail to conduct. Sometimes a Lacquer or Varnish like Clear coating will form, preventing flow of electricity.

    The previous condition is often caused by so called "clean-up-shops" spraying that clear junk all over the engine in an attempt to make it look new, inadvertently making a mess of the electrical system.

    Poor "Mechanical Joint" in the plug, some techs overlook this issue which is VERY prevalent on Fuel Pump wiring harnesses on most GM's

    Poor Grounding
    . Many electrical faults are due to faulty grounds.
    #1 - Rust or Corrosion from Battery Acid Vapors.
    I separate the 2 because Battery Vapors cause corrosion in some unusual places, not just under the battery.
    #2 - Paint under the lug, Even the factory will place grounds on painted areas, and especially Body Shops after wreck repair.
    #3- Poorly Crimped Lugs,
    GM introduced copper coated "Aluminum" battery cables with a 2-ear lug, instead of the "barrel lug" These were notorious for sounding like a bad battery or bad starter on very Hot days.
    Other lugs are crimped with NO grease, soon to corrode, thanks to all the Big-3 for these issues.

    Insulation breaks in the wires.
    The voltages in modern sensors go as low as 1.5 VDC,
    [ that is AFAIK per my newest GM Service Manual]
    A tiny crack or cut in the insulation can allow water intrusion, then Corrosion builds up on the wire, SIGHT UNSEEN.

    As a near 40yr Electrical Generation Employee, the rule of thumb is that electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire, not the inside.

    I found this while working on a 91 Roadmaster S/W.
    The ATS sensor [Air Temp Sensor] showed bad. The car would suddenly lose power at Interstate Speeds, nearly die, then chuuggg along, barely running.

    I replaced the ATS, which in that 305 TBS system, is in the air cleaner.
    NO Good, same issue.
    Checked the wirings' mechanical fit, checked for the proper voltage and ground away from the plug, all Good ?? [Scratching Head]

    The issue was sporadic, which of course made it harder.

    A close inspection of the wires revealed that someone had closed the breather lid on one of them. At that point was a minute crack in the insulation.

    Peeling off the insulation showed GREEN corrosion. The wire was SOLID AND INTACT, the mere presence of corrosion caused this fault.

    I cut out 2" of the wire, used Heat Shrink and 5% Silver Solder and all was well.

    Once a car with 4-Headlights had all 4 beams Lit Up on Low beam yet very very Dim?

    Checked fuse with VOM Meter, Fuse showed Good.
    The final solution, in that time cars had round fuses, the fuse was cracked below the metal contact area.a tug on the fuse, and it fell apart!
    New fuse, all Good!
    [This situation is called "Back-Feed, something most guys who pull trailers with NO Ground wire find out quickly]

    All the previous drivel was my attempt to show how even the OBD-II vehicles and modern scan tools do not make wrenching Easy!

    Most Sincerely
    aka Rusty Wrench

    PS, here's a link to OBD-II Codes
    link title

    Checking the TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins] I see nothing there related to your current issue.
    link title

    Note, these TSB's are only partial and incomplete, you must purchase an Alldata or other subscription to view them in complete form.

    Also, not all vehicles will exhibit the symptoms listed.

    I did find One Recall which your vehicle should have gotten notice.

    Bulletin No: SB-09186

    Date of Bulletin: 02/25/2011
    Summary Description:


    Good Luck and take a $3 sack of Apples for bribery and be nice, it will help.
  • I recently picked up a 2006 Chevorlet Colorado work truck with only 28K miles on it. I should have researched the model more thoroughly but I was simply worn out trying to find a replacement for my trusty 140K mile 1995 Ford Ranger "long bed" five speed which was destroyed by a 19year old on her cell phone. When I test drove the truck I knew nothing about the console and somehow missed the fact that the "check engine" symbol was on. It was so quiet that I thought they lighted up a motor symbol to assure you the motor was running :={.

    Eventually, after changing fluids, etc. I pulled the code and it was P0017. My independent mechanic put the motor on his diagnostic stand and couldn't find anything wrong so we started replacing sensors. After replacing all three sensors (he paid for the third one himself) we were at a loss as to what was going on. The light would come on, stay on a few days, and then shut itself off, then come back on again.

    The radio in the truck had been replaced by the Previous Owner with an Alpine unit using the wrong mounting hardware so the panel in the cab stuck out slightly. Our next hypothesis was that the radio had been inavertently wired into the "data line" of the wiring harness which carries 12v instead of the correct terminal associated with the ignition lock, etc. since the radio operated completely independently of the key. Partly so I could play MP3s off my player in the truck, I replaced the radio, planning to get a report from the techs regarding the wiring of the old radio, but they got away from me and had it installed and working correctly before they even thought to note which line the old radio had been using. At any rate, replacing the radio gave me a working clock and now the radio shuts off and on with the key as expected, and I can listen to my audio books while driving around with the "P0017" check engine code still showing.

    By this time we had cleared the check engine light and code about 12 times!

    The other day I got out on the expressway, set the cruise at 70 and blew about 8-10 miles down the road to pick up some stuff. When I came out of the warehouse and started up the truck it was on. I stopped briefly at the foot of the driveway to make a phone call, and when I restarted the truck, it was off and so far, fingers crossed, it has not come back on.

    My latest hypothesis is that this particular truck was left "sitting out" for quite a while without being driven and possibly without an oil change in more than a year. A bit of sludge might have been interfering with the hydraulic variable valve timeing and setting off the code when I started the truck up cold. Note that I was only putting 5-6K miles a year on my trusty old Ranger so I don't run this truck every day and most of my driving is short hauls on surface streets. I don't know what function switches the check engine light back off, as I thought that once the code was set the light says on, but my own experiences say that isn't quite the whole story.

    When the light comes back on, what do I look for next? Do I need to try and "wash out the engine" the next time I change oil? Is there a known "glitch" in the on-board computer which makes it hyper-sensitive? I'm assuming that my motor is far enough down the line from the original 2004's that bad valve springs isn't the likely issue. :confuse:
  • diy71diy71 Posts: 1
    Which sensors have you changed? ..p0017 usually refers to camshaft crankshaft colleration sensors bank 1 which end up in check engine light illumination. If you haven't already I would change valve camshaft selonoid check your old one if it got all 3 screens on, second I will change the camshaft sensor which is right beside the camshaft selonoid ,and then will if that don't take care of it ,I will change the crankshaft sensor which is located beside the oil pan underneath the truck. Also make sure your temp gauge is reading normal , if it's not then change the thermostat.
  • njseznjsez Posts: 1
    My father's GMC Canyon was sitting in the drive way for some time now, he is on Hospice and cannot drive anymore. Well I tried to start the truck and it would not even take a jump. The engine light is on.
    Any ideas on what I can do? His resources are very limited.
    Thanks a bunch
  • omaitaomaita Posts: 16
    You're totally right !! That's what I did, just sold it and get something according with my needs, and I get a Honda Ridgeline. I know is not a "truck" but for the 4 times a year a need a truck it's very useful. Great ride, lots of space and the in bed truck is just great!!.
  • Get a new battery and put it in the truck or try one of those "porta pack" jumper devices. I had to replace the battery in mine as it was so far gone it wasn't holding a charge very well.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    I know this was posted about a week ago - just wanted to check in and see if you were able to get this resolved?
    GM Customer Service
  • jette75jette75 Posts: 2
    I see that I'm one of too many people that are having problems with the Colorado I have had the truck for about 3 weeks and I have had the following codes B0899, V1064, P0017, P0128, P0420, P0455 so here's the 50 million dollar question does anyone know if the codes are just sensors or do I have major problems already??
  • chrispaulchrispaul Posts: 2
    it might be also your map sensor,if your carring heavy loads on your truck.even after you remove load from truck it still can bog down ,like your going to stahl.what a map sensor is .when carring a heavy load on your truck this sensor adjust the gas /air mixture to take the heavy load.
  • chrispaulchrispaul Posts: 2
    my sensor controlls vaccum pressure for heavy loads
  • I am probably to late but do not drive the truck. When the truck misfires it starts to pour gas through the motor. I know this because i was watching my gas gauge go strait down. I took in the vehicle and asked them if my gauge was going bad but they said that it was over filling the cylinders to make sure that the truck would still drive. the head is bad if you have not had it replaced yet.
  • I have an '05 Crewcab I5, Z71LS purchased just 6 months ago w/95000 miles, the head was replaced 1 to 2000 miles prior to my purchase. Today my mechanic confimed that the miss it developed last Friday wasn't a bad spark plug or coil, it's a bad valve, valve spring, lifter, with a compression of 30 it's definetly in the head somewhere! So back to the dealer to see if my "new" head has a warranty & if it extends to 2nd owners. To be continued. :confuse:
  • Well we just had our 2006 GMC CANYON truck in at GM and found out that CYLINDER 5 needs to be rebuilt. So for a Price of a GOOD USED VEHICLE we can fix this piece of crap! Thank God that I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper with 435 000 km on it that is 100% reliable for a 2nd vehicle I bet GM wishes they could say the same thing for there's. We just rolled over 107 000km and after reading all of your troubles I am certain this is the last GM for me!!!
    BAIL OUT !!! BAIL OUT !!! People they were only trying to tell us to BAIL OUT!!!

    They know they have a problem and what have they done to fix it ?????

    GM made our government responsible for there finances / they should have looked after ours and let that big ship sink, it would have sent a powerful message to big business to bring quality back to North America!!!

  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Good morning hitchhikin,

    I know that vehicle repairs can be frustrating, but it sounds as though your mechanic was able to narrow down the source of your concerns. I see that you're using kilometers as your unit of measure and am guessing that you're writing from Canada; if you had wanted to speak with GM of Canada (Customer Assistance) they can be reached at 800-263-3777 (Hours: M-F 7:30am - 11:30pm, Sat 7:30am - 6:00 EST). I would offer to look into this further myself but am unable to assist customers outside of the United States.

    All the best,
    GM Customer Service
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