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It IS however, an overhead cam design, so it's a bit "pricier" that a typical OHV head.
A 5 cyl. head is "discount priced" at $875 plus shipping. The 4 cyl. head is about $100 less. Valves are $14 and $16 for intake/exhaust, respectively.
To the poster, keep in mind, these prices are for brand new parts, but labor, of course, is extra. However, what I'm getting at, is an entirely new cylinder head should be around $12-1400, and I would think a competent mechanic should be able to do the job in 8-10 hrs.
After a few minutes and few attempts, it starts and runs fine until the problem happens again.
If you (or anybody reading this posting) finally found out what the problem was, could you advise on how to fix it?
You were having rough, shaky idle at 500 rpm? I have a 06 colorado extended cab 4x4. Has 90200 miles on it. When it idles it idles at 700 rpm, and it is quite rough, so i leave my foot on the gas idling about 1000 rpm, seems to help, until i take my foot off, and it goes down to about 300 rpm, then brings itself back up to normal. It has been cold here (like -45 with the windchill) and i do plug the truck in at night, but during the day when i am working and have no where to plug in it gets bloody cold. (no winter front on YET, but have one and putting it on tonight, hopefully it will make a big difference!!) And the past few days i have started the truck, and it runs REALLY rough, like shaking and sputtering, occasionally the CEL flashes at me, so i immediately turn the truck off, turn the key to ON, let everything cycle and then start it. Once started i hold the throttle so it idles at about 1500 rpm. This seems to alleviate the issue, until next time. But last night i went to leave, and had only let the truck warm up for about 5 minutes, threw her into reverse, and tried to go. It sputtered, shook, and i thought it was going to stall, but once again, the CEL light flashed at me. I did my little routine of turning it off, etc etc etc. The truck did this to me 1 or 2 more times. It is like it is starving for fuel. But with these trucks, it is not possible to change the fuel filter unless you take the fuel tank out and replace the pump... (stupid GM design).
I am really getting fed up with this truck. I have only had it for a year and a half!!!
This is the 3rd issue that i have posted on this forum, none of which are solved yet.
:mad: :sick:
I found this statement in Wiki-answers when i searched fuel filter in 06 chevy colorado:
For the 04-05 Colorado, the filter is attached to the front of the gas tank by a black plastic "harness." It's clearly visible with a quick glance under the truck, on the driver's side. It'll have a black line going in and one coming out. It is recommended that they be changed every 25,000 miles, according to the GM maintenance schedule.
For the 06+ models, the fuel filter is inside the gas tank and is supposed to be maintenance free.
Plus, from my inspections under the truck, i have not located the filter, and I know what to look for.
I will double check with my mechanic tho, but i am damn sure that they are only in the tank.. sorry to say.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
* To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light. Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals will allow less pressure into the EVAP system. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
* A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
* To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT.
* Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
And as for running to the dealer instead of walking, i am too late. Truck has 90300 miles on it, that is about 150,000 kms... =(
Unfortunately i am too late. I was going to school everyday last year, so i put ALOT of miles on the truck. (about 3 hours of driving everyday minus weekends and holidays)
Thanks anyways!
My morning commute to work was such that I drove 3-4 miles at 40MPH or below, which is below the converter "lock-up" point, before I got to the expressway. That length of drive usually was enough to get the engine almost up to temp, so when I got to the expressway, for the major portion of my drive, the truck would shift into "OD" pretty much right away.
However, on my trip home, it was only about a mile from my parking lot to the expressway, and of course the engine wasn't up to temp yet, so the truck wouldn't shift to OD until I was another 2-3 miles down the road. This wasn't something that was spelled out in the owner's manual, but simply something I observed in daily driving.
Getting the transmission flushed, however, isn't a bad idea. I strongly believe in preventative maintenance, at least because I own, rather than "rent" (lease). Therefore, I drop the tranny pan, and change the fluid and throw in a fresh fliter, every couple of years. However, it's inexpensive for me, as I do all my own work.
The Canyon/Colorado 5 cylinder has a "redline" (max speed) of about 6000 RPM. This is indicated by the "red zone" on your tachometer. The engine should be "reasonably" smooth up to this speed, however as you rev it that high, the engine will naturally get louder. If the computer and transmission are functioning correctly, the engine will rev up to the "redline", but not exceed it. (again, assuming it's an automatic).
Revving it that high, in normal circumstances, shouldn't hurt it, but if you do this continuously, you'll shorten the life of the engine, due to the added wear and tear. Also, I wouldn't recommend "leaning on" the truck until it's fully warmed up....
I've read thru and noticed a few people have asked a few questions and I may be able to help. I've owned a 06 Crew cab 4X4 since new. Only major issue I've com across is the cylinder head issue. Originally my check engine light was going on and off every couple of days. I called the dealership and they were not concerned and said if I was around to come in and they'd hook up the TECH2 to it but it was most likely a sensor. When I took it in they ended up ripping it apart and said the head was no good and cylinder 2 was misfiring, all cylinders were losing compression. This was taken in on Dec 17/09 at 75,000 KMS. they said this has probably been doing this for some time. They told me to continue to drive it until they got the part in to fix it. Of course trying to get set up for a rental over the holidays is impossible and I ended up waiting till Jan 13/10. I just got a call and it should have taken 1 1/2 days but now I won't see it till the 18th b/c of the weekend. although this is a pain in my [non-permissible content removed], from what I've been told I have two options:
1. I go through the GMPP and pay a $200 deductible but a rental is free OR
2. There is a special clause that I can use and I do not pay the deductible but pay for the rental
Hope this helps out a few ppl.
Lately I have been researching the Canyon 3.5 & 3.7 and was thinking of buying one but I have read some alarming issues that these trucks have in the 3.5 & 3.7 litre engines. I hope current owners are having good luck getting their problems dealt with. If a light bulb burns out its normally not much to worry about but engine teardowns to fix major problems is pretty time consumming and frustrating and not something I ever had to concern myself with during the time I had Toyota products. The more I read the more likely I am to purchase another Toyota even with the publicity over their current recall notice.
I was all set to try my first GM product but I'm apprehensive. I really do want to spend my money here at home on products built here by Canadians and Americans but the quality is an on-going concern.
What ever happened to the indestructable Chevy's of the 50's and 60's?
Make/Model Domestic-parts content Assembly location:
Ford Taurus - 90 percent - Chicago
Lincoln MKS - 85 percent - Chicago
Toyota Sienna - 85 percent - Princeton, Ind.
GMC Savana 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
Chevrolet Express 1500 - 82 percent - Wentzville, Mo.
Buick Lucerne - 81 percent - Detroit
Chevrolet Malibu - 80 percent - Kansas City, Kan.
Honda Odyssey - 80 percent - Lincoln, Ala.
Toyota Avalon - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
Toyota Tundra - 80 percent - San Antonio
Toyota Venza - 80 percent - Georgetown, Ky.
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&subject=ami&story=amMade0709-
Over 60% of the consumer goods we buy here are made by "U.S." companises which are owned by European conglomerates as subsidiaries, never mind those owned by Japanese companies and elsewhere than Europe. At least U.S. workers have jobs and the investment money comes here (although profits go overseas, of course)--I suppose.
Just had our Camry accelerator shim placed today after an oil change. Out in 1-1/2 hrs. Excellent auto. Last summer when we were choosing between a Chevy and a Camry, our master mechanic friend from church said it was a "no brainer"-- get the Camry and we'd never see him in the shop, just church.
Haven't had any further 2006 Canyon problems since pedal malfunction message about six months ago. But I perhaps it is the computer gliching up on start-up. I've three messages and it is only on start-up in cooler, wet weather. I pushed the brake once by mistake when I was turning the key and got a break-error message which disappeared when I turned off and restarted the truck. Idle is GREAT thankfully. Made and operated in Louisiana. But from all the complaints of owners who seem to live up North, maybe it just needs to be run in warmer weather, perhaps to burn off that Ethanol residue, if that has anything to do with it. Also avoiding Ethanol gas whenever possible to avoid sludge build-up.
I contacted GM corporate about my irregular engine starting problems and constant ticking noise. After disclosing my knowledge obtained on this forum of their special warranty policy, a congenial CSR issued me a case and policy number without much hassle and further suggested taking my truck to an authorized dealer to determine whether my mechanical problems were associated with covered provisions.
Of course, the policy only covers defective designated items (head, valves) which can only be determined after a professional GM mechanic's diagnosis (about $150.00). Upon diagnosis, I was advised that the head and intake valves needed replacement and would be covered (parts, labor) under the special GM policy - fortunately.
Unfortunately, the dealer has since determined that my ticking noise was associated with a cracked exhaust manifold which will not be covered by GM and will cost me ~ $500.
I ask all on the forum...how does an exhaust manifold crack? I've never seen a cracked one in 30+ years of tinkering with cars. Cast iron, right?
Furthermore, I was told that the timing chain needs to be replaced. I've been without a vehicle now for a week and counting (no rental supplied) and as you might imagine, I continue to ponder my purchase of Pandora's box.
I told GM that I've had the ticking from day one and argued that a cracked exhaust manifold is an inherent defect from the factory, not a wear and tear issue. I pleaded my case for a no cost replacement to no avail as the truck has exceeded (88K) the original warranty. Their CSR said I might try barking up the hill if I could provide documented evidence of the problem within the 3-36 warranty.
Any suggestions? Is there an end in sight? Anybody familiar with lemon laws? Is a flare my best option?
Special warranty recipients with engine problems beware!
In my last post I commented on my satisfaction with earlier Toyota products. In 1990 the Toyota I bought was bullet proof. The 1998 Corolla was up there at 90%.
Although I found that car annoyingly underpowered for freeway travel, I didn't keep it long, I bought a Mazda. In 2003 I bought a new Matrix, clever design but also underpowered for the mass. I had a 2007 Tacoma SR5 Access cab for two years which I liked. I would still have it but the fuel costs were alarming back during 2008 when it peaked at $1.47 per litre. My monthly commuting costs were outrageous. From an environmental standpoint its shear glutony to commute in a 6cyl or 8cyl anyway so parting with the Tacoma was not difficult.
I remember, more than once, talking with staff at Toyota dealerships saying the quality was not top notch like it used to be. Something deteriorated when the Cambridge plant opened in the late 90's, growing pains maybe? The tacoma is a California assembly so has the North American input spoiled the quality? Maybe.
Now, the garage has two Mazda's parked in it. Both made in Japan and sent here assembled. Very happy with them both.
The reports on this site for owners of Canyons and Colorados have been a flashback to the days of dealing with the terrible Ford Ranger truck :lemon: I bought in 1990.
Thankyou all for helping me with this decision. I hope you have 100% success at the dealership repairing your GM trucks- Canyons and Colorados.
Sorry to say, I wish you good luck. In previous postings, I mention experiencing the exact problem as you. There are other Forum posts identifying similar Colorado start-up problems, speculating everything from cam shaft actuators to fuel pumps to theft deterrent device fuel cut-offs to injectors -- you name it, the list is large and the problem diagnosis remains undetermined. I had a GM engineer tell me it could be a defective key fob.
Over a period of several weeks during the summer, I experienced irregular no-start issues, although the truck would later start after approximately a 15-20 minute waiting period. The problem ceased for awhile but happened again in December and went away like a recurring phantom. My GM dealer had the truck for 2 weeks and could not repeat the symptom or ID any codes associated with problem.
I subsequently called GM to complain and inquired about the special warranty after reading about it on the Forum. They issued a policy# no questions asked so I took the truck back the dealer. The head and valves were determined to be in need of replacement, as well as a cracked exhaust manifold.
I haven't experienced the no-start gremlin since December, but I now have a mostly rebuilt engine since I took the initiative to contact GM. I suggest you call GM if your truck is under 100K to get the warranty policy and have a dealer check it out ASAP so that you won't take a bigger hit down the road.
No one can say if this issue was the monkey wrench causing my starting issues but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Good luck.
I am from GM Customer Service. When did the problems first occur with your vehicle? Do you currently have a case with GM? If so, what is the case number? What is the VIN on the vehicle? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into it further? You can access my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service