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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • serenityknollserenityknoll Posts: 4
    edited March 2010
    ">I have JGC 97 with Strait 6 Cyl, Auto Trans,4x4 (130,000 odom) - After about 5 minutes of driving it stutters and wants to stall between 45 to 60 miles an hour and seems to do it when in the overdrive gear on open road( at cruising speeds). Happens mostly while going up inclines. The problem doesn't seem to exist while in lower gears but it did happen before in lower gears until I added Sea-Foam. Now seems to happen only in overdrive...There is also sometimes what appears to be occasional very mild slippage while gear changeing 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th but I don't always notice it. There are no code lights flashing on dash..... I am thinking about changing fuel filter which is in the tank and I will also replace the fuel pump - while the tank is dropped...Any suggestions? Jeepster98.
  • If someone has their owners manual around, could you post the wording from it on how Jeep says to use the Selec-Trac system for the 2000 JGC?

    Thanks!
  • hnkdynkhnkdynk Posts: 5
    About a year ago I thought I didn't turn the key far enough to make contact and start the car. The problem got worse as the season got colder. Insert the key and everything turns on(lights, bells, radio, seats) but the key needs to be turned 2, 5, up to 20 times before the contact is made and the engine starts. After that, NO problem until the next morning! After the car starts, it will restart however many times is necessary. As weather warms up the ignition switch requires fewer turns: colder more turns. The car eventually starts up but this is baffeling my mechanic and me (now my wife is nagging about this too). My mechanic also has another JGC doing the same for another client who took his car to the Jeep "stealer" first and charged over a grand in parts & labor. BTY switch, coil, starter motor & all down the line check-out good. Any/All advice is appreciated (it will keep my wife off my back!).
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    I would start by checking the relays under the hood starter pcm etc.
  • hnkdynkhnkdynk Posts: 5
    Replaced a starter relay and the problem got worse. NOW the prob occurs when you restart-up after the car sits for 2 hours. Before it had to sit over nightin order toreplicate the problem. BTY Chrysler Customer Assistance Center suggests that I take it to the "factory-authorized dealership". I've Googled the problem and a lot of other people have a similar prob. One dealer, after an owner spent a grand, told the owner "to trade it in" to fix the prob.
  • hnkdynkhnkdynk Posts: 5
    UPDATE! My JGC went back to the shop with a NO START prob. When placed up on a lift, with a "driver" to turn the key and someone watching underneath it, electrical arcing was visible from below. (I don't know if the 'driver' was in a OSHA safety violation or not & it's not my problem). The starter was shorting out and eventually probably would have caught fire. The starter was replaced and so far on further problem. I don' know if this is the solution to all orher "no-starts" but in my case it seem to be working.
    BTY Jeep Chrysler Customer Assistance Center took 5 days to reply and call to re-advise me to take it to the STEALERSHIP for their diagnostics.Too late;problem fixed.
    They are really poor on customer CIRCUS. I'll be back If the prob. comes back. :)
  • hnkdynkhnkdynk Posts: 5
    I need to add another Forum. This one helped a lot!

    I don't know why the web address split-up but, type out the whole thing
    Look for both Hankster1 and Brigada starting around posting #70 :D
  • hnkdynkhnkdynk Posts: 5
    GOOGLE This- 2005 Jeep GC not starting; Jeep Grand Cherokee cars. autoforum.classifieds1000.com
  • moe34moe34 Posts: 2
    My 93 jeep grand cherokee runs fine when you first start it but after driving for a while especially i hot weather it starts to act like it wants to stall out and I could have my foot all the way to the floor and it will not accelerate past 20mph. If I take my foot off the gas or come to a stop it will shut off. By that time there is a really strong gas smell that I was told was a leak in the exhaust. I can start it back up but it sputters and jerks. If I let the truck sit for about an hour it will start and run fine as long as its not hot outside. I replaced all the tune-up parts and have put two sets of plugs in it. When I put the second set in there in notices that the other ones I took out were white as if the motor was running too hot, but the truck does not over heat. I made sure the plugs were gapped properly and used the factory champion plug. i check the fuel pressure while it was idling and it was ok. The only thing I have not replaced on the truck is the manifold gasket. I was going to replace that and the manifold since I was told the exhaust leak was at the y-pipe. It is a costly repair and i want to be sure that the problem will be fixed. PLEASE HELP
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you changed the coil?
  • It helps to know which engine...mileage...any check engine lights or trouble codes...

    Start with the free stuff...remove the Idle (Air) Control Motor and clean with carb cleaner or replace it if you wish.

    Disconnect the battery and then remove the connections to the Engine Control Module. Apply dielectric grease to the connector and to the pins and reassemble.

    If these have no effect check the coil. Primary resistance (between terminals A & B) should be around 0.95 to 1.20 ohms. Secondary resistance (between terminals A & secondary terminal) should be around 11.3 to 13.3 k-ohms

    The manifold gasket should have little effect unless it is so bad causing the O2 sensors to send bad info to the ECM.

    Let us know...
  • moe34moe34 Posts: 2
    I have a 93 grand cherokee that has 205,000 miles with a straight 6. After about 20 minutes of driving it starts to bog down like it wants to shut off. If i give it gas it will keep running for a short time but will not accelerate pass about 30 mph. If I come to a stop it will shut off. It will start back up but will run really bad and sputters along. I have replaced all the tune-up parts and the plugs are gapped right. I replaced the coil and cleaned the iac motor. When the problem occurs the truck does not overheat. I tested the fuel pressure and it was good. I didnt test the pressure when the problem was occuring. Should I test the pressure when the problem occurs or is that even necessary? If I let the truck sit for about an hour it will start and run fine. What should be my next step?
  • I will assume there are no check engine lights or OBD II codes...AND you have a multi-meter to check voltage and ohms...

    After you grease (dielectric grease) the connectors for the PCM check these three sensors:

    Throttle Position Sensor - check voltage across the (+) wire (Purple/white) and the (-) wire (black/blue). Voltage should be 5.0 volts. Next check signal voltage across the (+) wire (orange/blue) and ground. It should be 0.5 volts. Move the throttle to a fully open position and voltage should increase to 4.5 - 5.0 volts. Replace if necessary.

    Crankshaft Position Sensor -check ohms across terminals B & C on the crankshaft position sensor (B is the center terminal and C is to its right when the connector locking tab is on the top). Resistance is infinite. Replace if resistance is low.

    MAP Sensor - check vacuum hose for deterioration...check electrical connector for a good fit and the wires for deterioration, looseness and breaks. With the ignition on (engine not running) check the voltage on the positive (+) wire(purple/white) to ground (-). It should read between 3.5 - 5.5 volts. Turn key off and connect the connector up to the sensor. Turn key on (engine not running) then check voltage on the signal wire (red/white)(+)to ground (-). It should be 1.5 - 3.0 volts. Replace if necessary.

    Let us know...If this doesn't reveal a problem...We can try the camshaft position sensor next.
  • shane0203shane0203 Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I just bought a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has a factory remote car starter. I am having a problem when I attempt to start the vehicle. It happens both using the remote car starter and the key in the ignition.

    I go to start the vehicle and the engine begins to start but then starts sputtering and stumbling like its running out of gas or not engaging completely. It feels like the engine is half started. None of my lights are on. I have taken back to the garage and they cant find a problem and of course it doesnt do it while they have it. They checked it on the computer and no codes are active.

    It happens both when its cold and when its hot. Any suggestions???
  • It helps to know which engine and how many miles.

    Start with the free stuff first. I would remove the Idle Air Control Motor and clean with some carburetor cleaner and then re-install.
  • I have been having problems since Nov.09 with my 98 GC.

    In the last 3 weeks my jeep has been at the dealership 3 times.
    They have replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, 02 sensors, pcm, and an ignition coil(3rd one) and said they fixed my bad coolant sensor. I picked it up on Thursday and the bad coolant sensor popped on within 2 miles from dealership. My jeep is stumbling and stalling when I am going low speed or at a stop. Today it cut off on me while going over railroad tracks. Since so much has been replaced, is it possible that the bad coolant sensor is causing all of my problems? Today while being in line at the drive thru at my bank, the bad coolant sensor popped on and within seconds my jeep cut off.

    Any ideas will be greatley appeciated.
  • bradc1bradc1 Posts: 2
    Wondering if anyone can help. A few months ago, my 04 GC Laredo(4.0L) began stalling out of nowhere whenever I would come to a stop. If I was pressing the throttle, it seemed to work fine As soon as I got home the problem cleared up and didnt act up for a couple weeks. The second time, it threw a code. I scanned the PCM, and found code P0505(Idle Air Control). I replaced the IACV, cleared the code, and it seemed to be fixed. A couple weeks later, I got a MIL light again. Checked the code, and same thing. P0505. I was unable to reset the code with my OBD scanner so I tore into it again, and ended up cleaning the throttle body, and valve airway. As soon as I did this, I heard a big 'WHOOSH' as it seemed to clear the airway. The MIL light then shut off, and I was able to clear the code. A couple weeks later, the light came back with the same code. Everything I have read states that it either has to be the IACV, the wiring, or the PCM. The car seems to run fine, but it sputtered alittle bit when I was working with the connector. Also the throttle body seems to have some dark deposits on it again as well. Is there anything else, short of replacing the wiring harness, or valve connector, or PCM that could be causing this? I am suspecting the connector is bad, but not sure if you can replace just the connector. I like to work on my own vehicles, but I am close to taking it to a dealer for a fully blown diagnostic test, but I am afraid they will want to change the PCM, which I know is the most expensive option. Could a vacuum leak cause this? It is a very intermittent problem. For the most part the car runs fine, even when the MIL lamp is on, but it does occasionally stall out or idle very erratically when at a stop. I really want to get this fixed. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    i would check the crank case vent PVC valve on older cars seems as the 4.0 has a plastic tube with a orifice by the valvecover
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    You may want to check these few things below....
    mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studeer or misfire.... and it always started right back
    got mine fixed with the very last option #3, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from
    ebay
    they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the (pcu or ecu). worked like a charm.......


    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... several months ... SO FAR SO GOOD

    good luck
    alan
  • where it located on 01 grand cherokee 4.7 v-8
  • I have replaced the battery, alternator and belts...Each morning the Jeep will crank, but will not start until I hit the gas pedal. Once it gets going, it will not idle so I have to keep the gas and break pedal held to shift into gear, which at this time still has a hard time going. The weird thing is when the Jeep is driven somewhat, it will start the next time throughout the day no problem??? I only have this problem in the mornings, but it seems to be getting worse. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you remedy this situation??? Please advise!
  • I know I'm really late replying, but if this helps someone else…Take it out of park and put it back / Make sure it's in park. I learned that after two tows and having an alarm system with a kill switch removed. Park doesn't always engage and you can't start the car when it thinks it's in gear.
  • It sounds like you have a dry-rotting fuel hose. That's not exactly what it was, but the part was $16. Fixing it was $85. I wish I could remember the name of the hose. It will begin affecting everything like shifting, gas mileage, etc.
  • It sounds like you have a dry-rotting fuel hose. That's not exactly what it was, but the part was $16. Fixing it was $85. I wish I could remember the name of the hose. It will begin affecting everything like shifting, gas mileage, etc.
  • ejg342ejg342 Posts: 1
    I had damn near the same problem with my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0L. It only has 60,000 miles on it and I baby the hell out of it so when it started acting up I was pretty surprised. It started off with my check engine light coming on and off, reading a different code around 90% of the time (ranging from O2 sensor, evap, to accelerator pedal high input) and before i could even start to troubleshoot it started dying on me. First it was just a sluggish start, nothing more than slow turn over before it started up and ran, but got progressively worse each day eventually dying every time i would come to a stop (a complete stop, i could take my foot off the gas fine as long as i was moving, but as soon as the car stopped it would sputter out and die) I checked all the sensor and they all appeared to be fine when I noticed that random lights (like my O/D Off, Cruise, etc) on my dash would automatically come on whenever I started the car. I started to think it was more electrical than anything and low and behold i found a decent sized hole at the base of my batteries negative post that had turned the entire inside of the connector to paper (couldnt really notice it from just looking at the top though), bought a new battery and replaced the connector, now it runs fine. This is probably a pretty uncommon cause (which is why i went into all the details) but hell if it happens once its gotta happen again so I figured I'd spread the word since its a hard find but an easy fix.
  • finisherfinisher Posts: 6
    1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 automatic. Engine will not start. No spark at coil. Relpaced coil and crankshaft position sensor. Swapped ASD relay with a good one.
  • Did you ever find a solution to your problem? We have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. We are having the same idling issues. And I have experienced the shut off too. We have had nothing but problems, put in 3 transmissions, and my husband is saying something about the header bolts??
  • finisherfinisher Posts: 6
    Yes I did. It turned out to be a bad ASD (automatic shut down) relay. That cured the problem.

    Try this website www.justanswer.com and go the the auto machanic part

    It will cost you a few dollars (minimal) to get an answer, but you will be communicating with a live Jeep mechanic over the internet. It helps to have some auto repair knowledge. There are some negative reviews, but it worked for me.
    Good Luck
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,616
    edited May 2010
    There's tons of great advice over on Edmunds Answers.

    And it's free.

    Tell Karjunkie I sent you. Or 0Patience. Or Zaken1, Morin2, Knowledgepower, Texases or DocJ. Or Shifty or a few dozen other great techs hanging out there.

    There's over 500 questions answered there just on the Jeep Grand Cherokee. (link)

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • runs good 30 -40 min then starts to miss till it stalls then wont start for 30 min or so put in a used ecm same thing also notice idle speed seems low 600-500rpm and start idle is low usually they go to 1100 and drop after start any ideas.
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