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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • bollingbolling Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    I have the same stalling issue with my Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi. I love my Jeep and this is my second one, but honestly, I would not buy another one.

    My jeep starts up fine and drives well but I can tell when the gas isn't getting through to where it needs to for the car to continue to run. My car is shutting off at stop signs, traffic lights, and just about an hour ago while in motion on a very busy road. Normally after attempting to turn the engine a couple times it will start back up but the check engine light will always come on. After I park the car overnight, check engine light is off and I wonder if I'm going to be starting and stopping in the middle of busy intersections the next day. My 5 year old daughter was in the back seat today and cars were just coming up on me (while stalled) really fast in the rear before they saw me and my hazards on. Scared and after maybe 10 attempts to restart the vehicle without success, I gave it a whole lot of gas and turned the key until it started up. My jeep has 60k miles on it and I used mid grade gas. I used to use premium gas but the problem only seemed worse, so I went back to mid grade. The car sputters at time and other times I'm the quickest SUV on the road.

    My two rear inside door handles snapped off because the handles are mounted to the panel which is only hard plastic (bad design).

    Two days ago my LCD GPS Screen went out and when it's out I can't control the CD player or the steering wheel radio controls. The screen will come on first thing in the morning, but shortly after, will go out.

    The driver side of my car leaks when it rains, driver side floor will be flooded but sunroof doesn't leak. Those water things that run from the sunroof down the side of the windshield to allow water to flow obviously were forgotten when the car was built.

    Although the DVD player still works, my two front door handles are cracked and look as if they can only take a couple more pulls before they snap off as well.

    Oh I forgot... when the car stalls, occasionally I will smell gas inside the car. Actually, I've smelled the gas inside the car before, and the car had not stalled. The EPS SYSTEM OFF light comes on because the system just shuts itself off when the car acts up.

    I don't think cold weather has anything to do with the stalling because I just moved from MA to TX. When in MA I never had issues like this but I could tell the problem existed. Since in TX as of July 15th, I think it's time to get a moped for traveling seeing that the weather allows and it's more reliable. One last thing, I have also noticed that sometime when I accelerate the car jerks as if it were going to cut off but the gas got through. It does sound like water is getting in somewhere causing the problem.

    Chrysler agreed to fix the door handles for $1000 after my car locked on me at the grocery and while my daughter was in the back seat locked in the car. She absolutely would not climbed into the front seat (per mommy's instructions to never climbed into the front) to unlock the door for me and the rear handles were gone.

    Someone please, if you have any suggestions before I call Chrysler in the morning to give them a piece of my mind, I need information on the stalling, leaking, LCD/GPS screen failure, steering wheel controls and cheaper fix for the door handles.

    Thanks!
  • ahukillahukill Posts: 3
    My driver side door handle did the same thing. Unreal! My passenger door side is about to do the same thing too. I am the only passenger so luckily only one side is the problem. We took it out again tonight. It idles at stops signs below 1000 rpms lucky if it gets to 500 rpms. I can tell by sound when it is going to give out and can rev it to go. I don't have any check engine lights or any other indicators. It was due a new battery. The door handles to replace are high. Most people say to call salvage places to try to find a new door handle. I am so bummed. I had an Infinti Q 45 1995 with over 200,000 miles. So far with the a/c problem, exhaust manifold replacement, I spent less money on the Q car than the Jeep. Should have kept it. I had no luck with Chrysler on their crap doors. I wish you luck! I agree the hot weather should not have anything to do with it. Wondering if we should try to trade it in? Drove around to get gas out of car. Added fuel injector cleaner and will fill it up with better gas to see if that happens.
  • ive had the same problem with my straight six.. it didnt have anything to do with the air though. it would seem fine maybe at first, but when i would get to a stop sign and accelerate it would die. also, if i just had it in park and pressed the accelerator the rpms would go higher then go extremely low and either putter or die. i had to replace the idle air sensor and the throttle sensor to get mine to stop. it didnt stop just at first.. it took it a couple times to re-adjust, but now it runs like a beaut.
  • bollingbolling Posts: 3
    If you find replacement door handles it doesn't help because the door panel itself is cracked and damaged. I still have the door handles but I can't reattach them because there's nothing to attach them to. Instead of Chrysler installing the door handle behind the door panel like most cars, they attached it to the panel itself which isn't strong enough to hold up to doors being opened and shut all the time.

    My best friend is a mechanic of 30 years (in another state) and he called one of his contacts at Chrysler to inquire about the panel and handles. The contact told him it is a bad design and Chrysler is aware of the problem.

    This is probably why they agreed to fix mine for $1000. They agreed to fix all four doors for that price which they referred to as the deductible. I am going to exercise that option, here in the next few weeks..

    The potential for a tragedy to happen somewhere with jeeps stalling on highways and busy intersections/roads, as well as the door handles just snapping off is increaseling high. Cars were literally swerving to keep from hitting me last night, I couldn't move the car myself, plus my small child was in the back seat near the rear which would have been the point of impact.

    The handles... what if a Jeep catches on fire. The first thing a person would do, with force due to the quick response is get out of the car. My door handles would not hold up to that, they would just snap off. And myself and my child are the only passengers ever in my car.
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    METIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.


    option #2
    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.


    option #3
    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... .... SO FAR SO GOOD

    good luck
    alan
  • scottj1scottj1 Posts: 9
    It is not the ignition switch for a couple of reasons. The first, it continues to run after I release the start position to the run position. (for about 2 seconds) Secondly, I kept the key in the start position after it started. Yes, I know about the starter, flex plate, torque converter, etc. I am at wits end and would never have done this unless I was trying to be absolutely sure about something. It is not the switch. I have no idea what it could be.Any help is appreciated.
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    If it's a sensor you would get a check engine light and you could retrieve a code, i am pretty sure. I have had 2 problems that gave no code, one was the crank position sensor, located on the top of bell housing. It caused all gauges to max and then go to zero, however jeep would crank but not start, as when this goes bad it does not deliver signal to computer that tells computer to let spark go to plugs(ACTUALLY NO PLUGS, AN ELECTRONIC PART ON ENGINE). Since your vehicle runs, i doubt it is this. It's about a $75 dollar part but a biotch to install. The other issue my car had that had similar symptoms with gauges was the battery being old with a weak or dead cell. It had enough power to start but gauges fluttered and it ran rough and stalled, i did not think battery was bad because gauge was in good range, though on the low end of range, around 12.5 vdc. It eventually died and would not start, called Auto Club, they came tested battery, saw 12vdc, told me a good battery has 13.5-14vdc, put new battery in, jeep ran fine, no more problems. I then found many references on electrical system posts that the computer requires the 13.5 to properly function, and that lots of jeep cherokee probs are when battery is old and on way out, causes start and running problems, as sensors and or computer do not function properly with a weak battery. Your dash battery gauge should be near top of good range and if measured at battery must hold 13.5 while cranking. I had issues for about 6 weeks before final death of battery where it would no longer start, running got rougher last 2 weeks before end. So make sure battery is strong, i know if you worked on cars for 17 years you might assume battery in 12.8-13.2 range is good, but it is not on these vehicles, computer requires close to 14. If you want to start swapping parts, idle air sensor and the throttle sensor sound like they could be involved, but i would assume they would light check engine light. Do you know how to turn key on/off to display any codes on dash? It's in owners manual. Here is a link to what codes are and the method to retrieve codes with key. http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm Please post when you finally fix so rest of us will know.
  • stallbackfirestallbackfire Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I've been having issues with my jeep for about 4 years now. At first it was just Battery draining, but now things have escalated...

    Issues:
    Stalling in motion,
    Backfiring (I already blew one muffler due to this),
    Startup stalling,
    Sitting still it will also stall on me,
    It will stall alot of the time if I shift it from Park to drive,
    battery drains - though my hope is I might have fixed this part, I likely will not find out until winter,
    Issues with car locks not working right (though I am fine using a key I just want it to stop stalling),
    At one point I got a check cages light I've check oil and transmission fluid they are at the right level maybe it was responding to the stalling,
    Recently after having powersteering issues I replace the pump,
    I can pull the cables off and reset it, but that is only a temporary fix.

    I literally sat in a parking lot this morning for 10 minutes trying to restart my car without it stalling otu on me... after it stalled on a road when I was going 50mph and on my way to work. Eventually I got it to start and I drove with two feet on gas and break most of the way to work.

    I've one more year of college before I am able to buy something else... I'm almost through wihtout loans or debt. I really do not want to get a new car. This is killing me though, how am I supposed to be reliable without a source of transportation that is reliable.

    I'm incredibly frustrated... If you can help let me know

    I replaced all spark plugs, battery replacements about 10 of them in the past 3 years, O2 sensors, abs control module , catalitic converter, the computer, I had the transmission tested and there were no problems with it

    My next thought is the crank shaft censor or a wire that isn't grounded properly. I have more issues stalling in rainy weather and high humidity. In winter it is a battery issues which might have been solved by the abs system being replace due to it overdrawing power. I want to fix the jeep but I'm becoming rather pesimistic as I fix more parts that it isn't able to be fixed.

    The check engine light came on again so I'm taking it to the shop at lunch. However I'm interning this summer away from my family and home so I can't give up my car no matter how many problems it has.
  • I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0, 6 cyl that won't turn over. My wife stopped and filled it up at the gas station and when she went to leave, it wouldn't turn over. We jumped it at the gas station and it started fine and we were able to get it home. Took the battery in and the battery was fine. We changed out the starter and have checked all battery connections but still no luck. Just a clicking sound when engaging the key to start it. We have power inside. Any ideas??
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    Since it started when it is jumped i would rule out anything sensor related in your car, if it had been your starter, jumping would not have helped. I know you said you checked battery, but it really sounds like a bad battery. You said you took the battery some place. Out of car you took it? I don't trust a check like that on the counter of a parts store, it checks voltage but not cranking amps.Instead of wasting money on starter, battery is a better thing to change out. Jump your jeep, start it, drive to good parts store like autozone, they will check cranking amps as you try to start it. They also install the battery for free. If the vehicle started with a jump you can assume all circuits are good except for battery- if that battery is close to 3 years old, replace it, but i would want it tested still in the vehicle, that way they can first while it's running check voltage to make sure all cells are good, they can also see if alternator is charging battery, if it is but voltage is low(below 13.5 vdc) its the battery, test can also see if alternator is charging. That is the best way, instead of throwing parts at it. If battery is several years old, its highly suspect, enough volts to turn lights on dash on but bo cranking amps, but jump it and take it somewhere that tests in the vehicle, not with battery sitting on counter in store. Where did you take the battery to test?
  • bollingbolling Posts: 3
    edited August 2010
    I had the problem back in November. AAA came and jumped my car, said the battery was fine. It did it again and I also had power on the inside of the car. Took it to the Mobile gas station at the corner and they tested the battery again and said it was fine as well as all of the connections. As soon as the mechanic was getting ready to close the hood of my car the battery gave off some sort of fume and the mechanic said, "okay... this battery is no good". I forgot what he said was wrong with the battery but the fumes smelled like rotten egg. I purchased a new battery and they put it in right there. I never had the problem again. Again, the bested tested fine two times being hooked up to the machine but was no good. The old no good battery tested over 14.
  • I had this problem with my 99 Grand Cherokee Laredo. The mechanics said my battery was fine so I changed out the battery terminal connections (old) and I have not had that problem since...
  • That seems to have worked! Thanks for your help!
  • tyson00tyson00 Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    I have a 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.7L V8. I went to start it couple weeks ago in the morning and it cranks but would not turn over. Used other car came home from work and the jeep starts right up. Next morning same story. Everyone I knew said fuel pump going bad. So changed out fuel pump and filter/pressure regulator. Starts up no problem. Next morning same ol issue NOT STARTING!!! I hear fuel pump prime it fires up. No pump priming no starting. The weird part is the smaller fan by radiator will whine and vibrate. This happens every time the fuel pump does not prime up. WTF someone please help. When it does crank over and I drive around it wants to stall when I stop as well. I have read hundreds of posts and not one with this issue. I do not want to make another costly mistake replacing things that work. I did check fuel pressure when running and it was 54 psi. PLEASE PLEASE give me some direction
  • clynncclynnc Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    I am new to this site and am having a bit of a problem. I have a 96' jeep grand cherokee limited. The other day i drove it about 100 miles with no problems at all then when i went to drive it home it wouldnt start it just clicked. At first i thought maybe my battery so the first thing i grabbed were my cables and then i realized that my lights were on so i thought maybe my starter was starting to go so after tapping on it and still not starting my dad said lets try giving it a jump. So we jumped it let it run for a bit and then he took his cables off and i went to get the kids...it shut off. So we tried again and it did the same thing so we loaded up the jeep and jumped it i stayed on the gas. everytime i let my RPMs drop below 1 1/2 it ould start to sputter like it was gonna die out (after navigating the back roads in deer county..no easy feet without slowing too much) we finally got to the highway but everytime i slowed down it would go to shut off. I noticed that every once in awhile the the check engine light would come on but only hen my little battery icon/gage on the dash would go up to full charge ( i guess thats what it means)and when it would go back to the middle (7) the check engine light ould go off. As soon as i pulled into my house it shut off before i had it in park. Unfortunately i am the only one in my family with even the tinest bit of auto knowledge and it is pretty limited...sorry for the long saga here but i wanted to make sure i told you as much as i could. i guess after all that my main question would be...is it the alternator? I just need something to go off of. I am going to pick up a used alternator this eveining just to start the process of elimination so if anyone has any other thoughts please let me know! Thank you to all of you who read this "book' that I wrote and to anyone who is able to help me out!
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    probably your battery........ take it to autozone for a free check..... your alternator is trying to charge the battery and run the car.... if the battery will not hold a charge the alternator cannot run the car by it self unless you keep the idle up real high.
    could be a bad coonection at the battery..... clean the terminals ........... but my bet is the battery..... it has enough to run the lights but not enough to start the car. so it is prbably not holding a charge.....
    good luck
  • dana70dana70 Posts: 7
    I have the exact same problem with my 97 Jeep GC. I've replace the crank shaft sensor, distributor & cap, wires, ignition coil, catalytic converter (2) and today a new ECM. It runs a lot better today but it is still idling real low with the AC on and I'm afraid it will stall.
    I want to share this with you. The ECM is the computer on the passenger side under the hood directly behind the radiator overflow tank. Before I got the new ECM I could push and pull or even just tap the computer and the jeep would die. So we decided to install a new one. So far in 20 minutes of driving (you know that's not enough to say for sure) it has not stalled. The ECM was $200 at advanced auto parts.
    I'll update later.
  • maria99maria99 Posts: 1
    My son was driving his 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo home this morning when at 45 miles an hour it sudden lost power and quit. It will not restart. We have checked the fuel pump, plugs, and gas lines. When you try to start it the engine will not turn over even though it is trying to. Prior to this happening it would quit here and there when you first started it and took your foot off the gas. The only other problem that we have had was the battery draining if you left it parked for a few days. We have yet to get that figuered out. No one can find anything draining the battery. My major concern is getting it started and it not quitting on my son again. Please help. We are currently looking at the coil packs. We would appreciate any suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Maria
  • tyson00tyson00 Posts: 2
    I have changed out crank shaft position sensor and still will not start in mornings. Fires up when I get home in the afternoon though.......
  • i posted an earlier message about my jeep stalling and or dying while stopped .. i checked the plug thats on the firewall it was loose.. YAY it works fine now i have another problem... this is the third time im going to replace the muffler.. i first replaced the muffler only .. then a week later had to replace it again thius time from the cataqlyc convertyer and muffler.. well today i was driving to town the jeep went to hessistate like it used to ands backfired but when it backfired it blew yet another whole in my muffler HELP!!!!!! now i have to replace it again..
  • I have a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7L . I've had a recent tune up dine on it and a week later it started idling rough. Like it was gonna stall. I had a sensor replaced down by the starter a couple monthes before the tune cause ut would stall when you came to a stop, that stopped.. I just replaced idle air control valve and it's still having the same issues. Once it gets warmed up after driving it for a little bit it runs fine. Any ideas on what it might be? Can it be the sensor that I replaced a couple monthes ago down by the starter area?
  • jjesbkjjesbk Posts: 1
    we have the exact same problem.
    what plugs on the firewall?
  • Ok, Had the same stalling intermittently issue/problem but I think I fixed it. Take the plugs off of the PCM near the passenger side at the firewall. I had to remove the overfill tank for the coolant but that was no biggie. Get in there with contact cleaner and clean them, add some di-electric grease to the tips and holes. make sure they are very clean before using the grease. I did the same for the other two connections near the PCM as well. Put it all back together and make sure all the connections are tight! This should work for the stalling intermittently issue. If it doesn't work, I would make sure all the plugs you can see in the engine compartment, including all sensors are cleaned and greased with di-electric grease. this should solve any electrical gremlins you may have.
  • They are referring to the three electrical connectors (plugs) to the ECM (Engine Control Module). The ECM is mounted on the firewall and is kinda behind the engine coolant reservior (but the reservior is mounted on the fender well). ">link title
    link title

    Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery first.
    Unplug the connectors...apply dielectric grease (available for $2.49 from any parts store) to the pins and the connector plugs and reconnect.
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    You may want to check these few things below....
    mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studeer or misfire.... and it always started right back
    got mine fixed with the very last option #3, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from
    they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the part. worked like a charm.......


    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A 3 WEEKS.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • hi I have 2000 grand cherokee I left car on a street when I came back alarm was on and syren on. So I switch off alarm close the car and live for 2 hours.When came back I turn the key but car dont whont start my battery is old 5 years but ok After 15 min was dead. Can by the problem I hiered if battery is old and its not inaf power car dont whont star is true?????
  • Just buy a battery Forrest 'cause none of us have a clue about what you are saying.

    "That's all we have to say about that."
  • Yes you will indeed need a new battery. Any drop in the battery charge will cause the jeep to not start. Even if it turns over there are other components that will need full voltage to do their job. If you can't afford to buy one you will have to at least fully charge it but it will keep giving you problems.
    Good luck
  • hi and thank tou for advice I change the battery for new full charge but its not working plus I computer is not showing any problems Any idea???? PLEASE FOR ADVICE THANK YOU
  • Hello, I was on here last year reported that i replaced a pcm,fuel pump,throttle position sensor and cleaned distributor it finally ran great for awhile but the people i had put in the used fuel pump didnt connect the sensor for the gas to read whether how much gas was in it so we ran out probably about 6-7 times of gas throughout the year,now i have replaced the fuel pump again and now have gas gage reading 1/2 tank heard the pump come on when cranking over it started right up, took to gas station aired up tires put more gas in left in running for about 40 minutes turned it off started right back up.The next day my daughter took her jeep to work 11-2 came home at 230 and we tried to leave again at 3pm but then wouldnt started i changed batteries out no difference used carb cleaner to help it under hood at air flow almost started then replaced the fuel sensor relay plug no start,i am getting gas at the tester button under hood but now i cant hear the fuel pump turn on when turning key over i've banged on fuel tank no help i ordered a crank shaft sensor it shoudl be here this wk but i cant afford no more my car is broken down now too with smashed winshield and my daughter now has to take 4 buses to and from school at $4 aday..In need of desperate help, i am going to drop the fuel tank one more time today and see if any wires or hoses are kinked and see if that helps, oh i did test the ignition coil and there is spark i will test the spark plugs when i drop the tank too,i dont know what else it can be but it sounds like its not getting any spark is there anything else i can check?I have a 93 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 automatic 4x4
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