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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • ok, well i hooked up jumper cables and it started i tested the battery that was in it and its fine but that was almost dead last nt,i took the jeep up to advanced auto they ran a check on alternator and its fine,they couldnt charge the original battery that i pulled out of it due to the fact that they didnt have their charger charged,so they are keeping my battery over nt to charge it and i have to come back in the morning,the battery did say it needed charged though,so the person who i gave it to last wk one of my friends, makes me think he didnt charge it all the way or something is draining the battery.but still makes no sense when the battery in it right now was almost dead last nt due to crank it so many times it shouldve been dead this morning.i dont know,i guess we will see.93 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 oh and ps if i get it running tomorrow i am taking it to jeep dealership for all of the recalls on it if anyone didnt know about them, they will fix the recalls on 93 for free.
  • If it is turning over but just won't fire up then try holding the gas pedal to the floor while you turn it over, you may need to hold the gas until it can maintain an idle. I've had to do that before, once you get it running it will crank and run ok.
    But again, hold the pedal to the floor until it starts up then apply a little pedal to keep it running, stay close to 1 RPM.
  • Just got this 95 JGC from my sister. Replaced radiator and drove it from Chicago to Ohio. No problems. Was cleaning engine with a rag last night and now it cranks over but won't fire. I have also recently disabled the anti-theft system which was going off at random requiring the battery to be disconnected. There doesn't seem to be any pressure in the fuel rail. 12v @ coil wire. The Auto Shut down relay & Fuel pump relay both check out ok, and I can't find any disconnected wires (from cleaning). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Did you find a solution to this? I'm working it as well (without schematics so far).
    thanks,
  • ok this is getting really disgusting to fix,93jgc 4.0,took to jeep dealership they didnt order parts for recalls so had to take it home.charged battery jeep ran good until i put gas in it then was stranded at gas station.not sure whats going on there but now tank is full.im going to put in new fuel filter first and see if wires are kinked to fuel pump then drop tank again and replace fuel pump and put in crank shft sensor too,still gettin spark at coil.was wondering why battery test said something electrical is drawing 4.5 amps with nothing on or running,if its electrical then do u think it also could be a ground wire?people ive talked to think 3 senarios:fuel filter clog,ground wire,bad fuel pump again.i now have no temp gage working,it just stopped out of blue one day,2 window regulators now dont work and one door lock either.dealership put note on door handle saying do not lock well what the heck does that mean?and why wouldnt they tell me not to lock?need help back to drawing board again.
  • I replaced the computer (2), crank shaft sensor, ignition switch (2), catalytic converter (2), plug wires, distributor, rotor, cap.... It's been a nightmare for the past month. After picking the jeep up after the second computer installation I was disgusted because it was still running rough, not stalling but running like it had something in the gas so I stopped at the gas station and got 1/2 a tank of mid grade fuel. I have always used 87 grade because that is what the jeep manual stated I should use. It has cut the stalling out by 98%. It has not died since but it does miss a little but not nearly like it did. It's worth a try. It's $2 more per tank to get the mid-grade....
    So far so good, it's been 2 weeks.
    Dana
  • sorry about the delayed response. I travel often and this week was hell. Anyway, short answer is NO I haven't fixed it yet. I did find out that the fuel pump is not pressurizing the system when the key is turned forward from accessory position but before start position and learned via the internet that one of the vehicle anti-theft devices will essentially shut off fuel delivery by reducing the injector pulse to virtually nothing. I'll put some time in this weekend and follow up again. How about you? Any luck
  • Does anyone have wiring schematics for the Powertrain Control Module (the "Brain")? Something better than the Chilton's manual.

    A more thorough description and pics will help a lot of us determine if the PCM, one of the sensors or the wiring is bad.

    Everyone should know that 90+% of the time the problem is the wiring.

    If anyone has this, I'd be more than happy to build an electronic Library for everyone

    MST
  • Maybe working this problem will make hell week look better.:)
    I bought a DTC reader and no DTC's or enhanced DTCs have registered. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it and blew contact cleaner in the connectors for the TPS, IAC, and that little pressure transducer on the drivers side. I tried back probing the TPS connector for operating voltage without success but did put an ohmmeter on the sensor contacts and the resistance change seems smooth when moving the butterfly plate. Replaced the throttle body and hooked everything back up.

    It now idles between 400 and 500 rpm a little rough.

    I am just getting to know this car and it seems pretty complicated. Which makes easter egging really expensive unless you're a good guesser. So what I'm now wondering is why the computer doesn't see the low rpm and the closed throttle plate and advance the spark or feed in a little more air. Possible answers are a) poor crankangle sensor output (seems unlikely as poor sensor output would be less pulses and the computer would increase rpm), b) some problem (possibly mechanical since no DTC) on the Idle Valve, which may have been effected by the cleaning. c) corrosion on the throttle body at the edges of the butterfly plate (this seems unlikely because it seems minor, but there was a change in idle after the grease/gunk was cleaned out. plus corrosion pits would increase air inflow, making it appear partly open). There is a screw stop on the front/driver corner of the throttle body which could be used to hold the butterfly open a little but one of the fixes says not to do that.

    Right now I'm working without manuals but have one ordered off ebay. I'm hoping for some schematics so's I can see what's feeding what.

    After lunch I'll go down and probe the TPS a little more carefully and see what the closed reading is. supposed to be 4.something volts. Then have a look at the idle valve altho there's no apparently test for that. And clean some more connectors.

    keep in touch
    thanks
  • It was a good day, even though I didn't get to the beach.

    Worked the TPS using some other year's checkout procedure. saw familiar numbers for excitation and sensor output voltages. back probed the connector using straight pins and clipping the DVM leads to them. brushed the idle air control valve and noticed the body was warm. I've put the IAC off because of no procedure to check it out. So I pulled it off and it looked like the creature from the black lagoon had been living inside. anyhow it looked pretty frozen and I figured the warm body was from the computer sending 'move it' voltage and getting no motion. ran down to my local jeep dealer where they tried to sell me a whole new car and $147 later, it idles fine. with no trouble codes. altho there sounds like something's loose in the drive train but now I can get it inspected and back on the road.

    anyhow, check the IAC for heat, pull it off and have a look. pricy but

    good luck.
  • Did you ever get a reason for your Jeep just shutting off when going low speeds? This has happened to me about half a dozen times now. I have taken it to a mechanic but they cannot reproduce the situation. It's becoming very frustrating. Any advice you could give would be great!
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    You may want to check these few things below....
    mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studeer or misfire.... and it always started right back
    got mine fixed with the very last option #3, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from
    they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the part. worked like a charm.......


    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.




    2) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A year.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • dana70dana70 Posts: 7
    After replacing many parts along the fire and gas categories I started running high octane fuel in my jeep and it has ran great ever since. Either its a coincidence after the second computer or jeeps just don't like the low grade fuel, but it was still running rough on the way home after getting the 2nd computer so I took my neighbors advice and tried mid grade. The manual for the jeep says 87 grade fuel but the highest (I believe is 92) makes my jeep run great and fuel has probably changed a lot since that book was written.

    Thanks,
    Dana
  • cal65cal65 Posts: 6
    So, with the 2000 GC idling fine, I headed for the inspection station and three miles down the road the car quit like the switch was turned off. Cranked a while and it started and I headed for home. It quit again (cranked and started) just before getting home, which makes it a 3 mile run distance, put on the DTC checker and got a P0320 trouble code (ignitioin distributor engine speed input circuit). It's possible that this is related to the previous idle air valve problem, but unless it's excitation voltage from the computer module, it's unlikely and more likely the crank angle sensor..

    So, I'm currently waiting for the service manual from ebay O(for almost two weeks now). fortunately I have four other four other vehicles to drive and don't want to fumble around making things worse until I have some diagnostic directions.

    will keep youj apprised.
  • I have a 2001 JGC 4.7 that is idling fast 1200-1500RPMs. it normally was at 750 RPM. If I have it in park and give it quite a bit of gas it starts idling normal.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have a 2001 JGC 4.7 that I keep having to fill the antifreeze resevoir. I smell antifreeze slightly occassionally but never have any under my Jeep after parking. Also I change my oil regularly and there is none in it.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    I would check your throttle body. carbon gets built up and it may need cleaning... a couple of bolts to take it off and clean with carburator cleaner. you may be able to just clean it without taking it off. t
    alan
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    i would check your water pump.... when it starts to go only a little antifreeze comes out and it evaporates when it hits the hot engine. but you may see some water signs around the bottom of the water pump...
    alan
  • i have a 94 jeep cherokee ltd. i have had all the basic tuneup done wires,plugs distributor cap, fuel filter, i had piston changed pick up coil valves checked for leeks. it has about 100 thousand miles and it is a 5.2 v8. for the past three weeks it has been stalling out. temperature gauge is within normal range. the fuel pump is only a few years old. i have not put a fuel temp gauge on it yet. it will run for a while and then stall out. it starts back up after about 10 or 15 min and sometimes it will run a bit longer and sometimes it doesn't. no one seems to know what the problem is and i am not trying to spend a fortune for another mechanic. i have also been reading a lot of forums and this seems to be a problem with this car. can you please tell me what I might need to do to fix this. i do not think it is the fuel pump because when you put the key in and turn it, i had someone laying underneath to see if they could here it come on and it does. please help. i am at a loss. thanks
    donna maler
  • has anyone answered this question? as my 93 grand cherokee has the same issues. after warm up it spits and sputters at times but not all the time. we have changed the crank position sensor, also cam position sensor, then rotor button cap,and wires and plugs. at my wits end with this durn jeep. can any body help?
  • 1996 jeep grand cherokee larado dies after it warms up, already changed map sensor, fuel relay, fuel pump, and new battery
  • I just wanted to say that I say this same code posted on a different thread P0320 trouble code (ignitioin distributor engine speed input circuit). They had stated that it was a crack shaft position sensor. Just thought I would try to help.
  • frenchi187frenchi187 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    I drove my jeep around for bout 1/2 hr last night no problems then once again it started sputtering and died on me i put my code reader on it and 6 different times it said it was saying it was my cam shaft sensor (96 Grand Cherokee Laredo) please help i've changed fuel relay, fuel pump battery , map sensor I really need some help PLEASE,PLEASE (HELP) anyone it is my only vehicle, I also had the crank shaft sensor changed
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    change the crank sensor again could have got a bad one or if tightened to tight could have broken it
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    You may want to check these few things below....
    mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studder or misfire.... and it always started right back.
    I had no codes....
    got mine fixed with the very last option #3, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185. they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the part. just unbold and disconnect the plugs and then plug up the new one. worked like a charm.......

    I think your problem might be one of the sensors.
    and by the way the sensors are very easy to replace, remove a couple of bolts and swap them out. save yourself $90 in labor. I did not mind replacing the ones that were actually good because I figured they were getting close to the end of their life anyway.

    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.

    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    This was my problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7L
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have:
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A year.... SO FAR SO GOOD
  • My 2000 Grand Cherokee was also stalling. It would start and then immediately die. Took 3 or 4 times to get it going. Then it would just die while I was driving it. Took it to the Jeep dealer, they'd never heard of the problem. But the service man said it could be a bad switch in the automatic headlights and try turning it to manual. I did and haven't had a problem now for over a year. Hope this helps your problem.
  • My 2000 Grand Cherokee was also stalling. It would start and then immediately die. Took 3 or 4 times to get it going. Then it would just die while I was driving it. Also, the headlights would start flashing on and off even when it was parked. Took it to the Jeep dealer, they'd never heard of the problem. But the service man said it could be a bad switch in the automatic headlights and try turning the headlights to manual. I did and haven't had a problem with the headlights flashing or the car stalling now for over a year. Warm or cold weather didn't seem to affect it. Hope this helps your problem.
  • Our 96 GCL with the 318 CI was doing the same thing. I called my father who was a Jeep/GM mechanic for 30 some odd years and the ECU was the first thing he said. If your getting zero codes and no fast idle on cold starts the ecu is the culprit. I called an outfit in Florida that operates off of E-bay and ordered a new unit. about 300.00 Shipped over night but the guy had asked what the issue was at first. I asked him instead "what's the most common issue" He said "idle hold failure" BINGO!!!! Most commonly see in ECU's that are 125K to 160K in mileage. Luckily the only wasted money at this time was the TPS I replaced for $50.00. For those with really low idle and constant dying but always restarts, start with a new ECU first. It'll be cheaper in the long run.

    Jason
  • Update to my issue. Got the computer and the jeep wouldn't even run. New computer equals fail. Plug mine in and it runs. Still has the idle issue but at least it runs. Computer is going back and on goes my search for a fix.

    Jason
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    can believe it would not even start.... got mine from the place in florida and it started right up and fixed the problem..... may want to try it again and double check the vin nbr you gave them with the one they programmed in and the part nbr and mileage too.... even if it did not fix it it should have started.... so something is not right there......
    good luck
    alan
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