Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

1222325272838

Comments

  • do you think that trick would work on a 1992 laredo?
  • hey. i seem to have a similar problem. the stalling happens randomly, but usually when the oil pressure sensor drops to 0. doesnt happen right away but it still happens. where did you find a rebuilt ecu?? any help in this matter would be more than appreciated! thanks!
  • so my 1996 GC limited is amazing. i love my jeep, as im sure most of you do. throughout the years i have had to replace a lot on my jeep, but recently its been bad. its been sitting in my backyard for 2 months now. i have a stalling problem. my oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 when the car is WARM and IDLING. the car will not always stall, but when it does those are the circumstances. its not a rough stall, like the car was trying to stay on...its a quick sputter and then it cuts out. im wondering what, if anything, someone can tell me about this. im in desperate need of help! i dont want to part with my jeep, but if it cant be fixed its going to cost me more than its helping me. THANKS!
  • plato123plato123 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    Hi there,
    I have 1996 Cherocee Laredo 4.0 L and it wount start. I'm told it is the PCU. Is there anyone who can tell me where I can get a rebuilt ECu or PCU engine controll unit? My email is ingi.valgeirsson@gmail.com
  • i once had a no start situation and it turned out to be the ignition coil, cheap fix. my coil was firing yellow and my mechanic thought that was good but a yellow spark is the same as no spark, it must be blue. steve
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be your oil pressure switch as will cut off fuel pump when low or no oil pressure change that first as other things get costy
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    i have 2000 gc . i got mine off ebay from a place in florida. sent my vin #, part # and my mileage and they programed it in, it was plug and play. and worked perfectly. cost around $180.... good luck
  • 97 G C 4.0 intermittent stalling at lights and stop signs. Just like turning the key off no warning, no check engine lights or anything. Put plugs wires cap rotor on it with no improvement. Where should I turn next??? Im not about to just start replacing sensor after sensor. Any help would be great Thank you!! I was thinking crank sensor or tps??????????
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    check these few things below....
    mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studder or misfire.... and no codes . but it always started right back
    got mine fixed with the very last option #3 below, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from
    they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the part. worked like a charm.......


    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.

    option #1
    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.


    option #2
    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.


    option #3
    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER

    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN 1 year.... SO FAR SO GOOD
  • njtachnjtach Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    hey all, i am the proud owner of a 1996 jeep grand cherokee 4.0. i have had all the same problems you guys and gals have had and wanted to let you all know your looking at it all wrong. jeep/chrysler dosent give two #$%^s about you our your stalling problem and will take your money every time you walk through the door. as for all the posts, ive read and tried them, all seem to have some affect but if you look at the service manuals most of the things like 02 sensors prob. should of been replaced long ago. i have replaced every thing even fuel pump because of random codes coming up even the ghost code loss of pcm pwr wich seems to be untraceable or so i thought. i have even replaced the whole engine harness pcm bcm and a used PDC. and with hundreds of hours 600+ into the truck and just to note i was a mobile electronics tech with over 15 years in the field and years of auto repair background this thing would still give me stalling problems and almost killed me a few times. so with that said i want to share with you what i have found #1 you may use non oem parts if you wish but do use ones w some quality. #2 do not and i repeat do not just back out the two screws on the pcm, if you wish remove them and add washers then reinstall and tighten them these screws ground the cover of the computer wich is a circut board in itself to the rest of the pcm.#3 be very careful when probing wires and terminals use a needle prob only, as most meters use a chunky prob, this will only make things worse. #4 check ground points, also batt terminals should be checked and repl. if so repl. w good lead style ones not thoughs crappy metal ring ones. #5 keep a log/pen and paper with you for time temp and duration with you to note the stall and try to remember the type of stall (mine would back fire real bad) #6 do not wiggle the connectors at the pcm if they need to be removed pull straight out as wiggling them will more then likely break the solder points on the back portion of the circut board i.e pcm main board THIS IS A PCM KILLER !!!!!! as much as i used to work for a car dealer and no not jeep, the prev. owner of my jeep had taken it to four or five fivestar dealers and even with me calling jeep/chrysler and i was told this was the engineers dept they dont have a clue what they built they even asked me to let them know if i find anything since i had gone way past what has already been done to fix this issue, but i feel you guys should know first since most of you jeep owners have been waiting from what i can tell years for this. ok so hear it is i m sorry for the long story but trust me i made it as short as i could it would have been twice as long if i didnt. OK hear it is even if i wont see a dime from jeep for this*the pdc is the fuse/relay center under the hood next to the battery this is used on jeep wranglers cherokees and yes grand cherokees may even be others, this is your source/problem and dont think your gonna just cut it out and get another one there all bad and the more you mess with them the worse the problem gets. im currently working on a hand made replacment with good parts, but until i have a finished prototype i have cut out all relays and small fuses and wired in aftermarket type fuse holders and relays and i havent had not one stall backfire check engine light no start or anything (example i bought the truck w 130k+ miles and 30k later did my final fix i now have over 254k miles and it may not run like glass but its still going yeah stick that in your tech sheets JEEP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but if you you all attempt to do this repair and plz dont use crimp connectors use solder and shrink tubing then tape over that, and if you dont want to attempt this repair find someone that can and will warranty his work. p.s. good clean 12v power is just as important as good grounds but is much harder to find intermitent issues.
  • tuvastuvas Posts: 1
    Over the course of the last month, I've had to do numerable repairs that have included the following:

    1. I've replaced a new battery that was dead after 2 months. The alternator was tested, but was not found to be a problem.
    2. Thermostat
    3. Radiator
    4. Hood latch.

    And now I'm getting the following, and I'm rather stuck. It seems like the battery is draining at night, but it's easy enough to jump. The last time I jumped it and took it around, it was still dark, and the headlights flickered. As we were pulling back into our garage, the car died, and we had to push it back into our garage.

    I could probably get the alternator tested again, but I'm going to ask, what else could be wrong? Thanks!
  • It is so nice to see another mechanic/tech that knows how to solve problems. I have been a General mechanic for almost 37 years and have worked on pretty much all vehicles in the US except exotics and 09'to 10' models. I grew up simple and learned to work on cars and trucks at the young age of 9 years old. Working on old chevrolets, fords, chryslers, foreign, and work equipment such as 4x4's and utility pole and line trucks with booms with buckets and hydraulic augers. I owned and operated a garage and salvage yard for 10 years. Makin it short....It sounds like you have been where I have been in the past. I have always got lucky with jeeps and their electronic glitches. I actually have one at the moment that the guy wants me to replace the crank sensor. He doesn't really have alot of money and I have always tried to help people and friends out during our "economic situation" in the country and its tough where I live in NC.This will save me alot of time and get it right the first time. Nice to see someone who shows and writes that he actually does know what hes talking about!!! Kudos to you my friend.
  • We have a 97 4.0L GC Laredo with about 150,000 mi that is experiencing the stalling problem that seems to be an ongoing problem. We replaced the PCN about a year ago for the same problem and it seemed to take care of the problem. Within the last 4-6 weeks, the problem has returned. I have cleaned the contacts and used the tir wraps to stabilize the plugs. I have just been told by the shop that currently has it that Chrysler previously had a kit available for the replacement of the PCN plugs and that if the 3 were replaced for $720 ($195 parts, $525 labor for cut and splice) that they guaranteed it would fix the problem (yeah sure). Having searched the jeep forums extensively, I have not read anything about a kit available from Chrysler or that the plug replacement was performed. While the vehicle is in really good shape, I don't really want to invest what I think is about 20-25% of what the vehicle is currently worth. Even with their "guarantee". Your assistance and feedback is appreciated
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 GCL that stalls after 3 to 4 seconds. I have replaced battery, replaced ignition switch, cleaned all terminals, added extra ground from chassis to head. what could it be crank positioning sensor or security sys. I give up
    Can anyone help
    Brian
  • I had the PRECISE problem on a 2001. I looked at every post and every hint or solution provided. Only a few had the problem I had and a poor battery, dirty battery post or battery ground fixed some of them. It didn't help mine. On my Jeep, not only would it run perfectly for a few seconds (I think 15 was the max) it would then totally shut off without a stumble or backfire. ALSO the gauges would sometimes work, sometimes they all remained dead. The problem was a PCM, the programmable control module. On my Jeep it was located externally on the firewall, directly in front of the passenger area. There was a cage over it but you could see it and the three connectors that plug into it. The bolts on the cage were rusted badly, the hinges on the bottom were rusted solid. I had to remove the reservoir bottle in front of it to remove it. I got the VIN number from the vehicle and the mileage (VERY IMPORTANT) and trotted down to AutoZone. They found one in about 20 minutes of looking and had it pre-programmed and shipped to me in 4 days. The old one had a return value of $60 or $70 and the total cost for the new one was $246.00. Many times you buy one of these and then have to go to a Jeep dealer and have it flashed or programmed. They did this one and the cost was dirt cheap when compared to everywhere else. It plugged in and runs perfectly. (over a year ago and 27,000 miles)
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    does your SKIM light come on first before it stalls?? the sentry key immobilization module.... it shuts your car off afer 2 seconds if the key your using is not the proper one or is damaged.... or if the SKIM module is going bad. mine stalled alot a year ago but it was after it was running for a while like when i came to a stop sign..... that was the PCM or ECM that is mounted on the p/s fire wall in engine compartment...... $189 of ebay
    good luck
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    Do you know where the skim is located on the vehicle.
    Thanks Brian
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    Alby3
    I just installed the skim module on my 2000 GCL and it still shuts off but i noticed the security symbol is blinking before it stalls, which it did not do before, it just stalled. I still have the gauge problem , they are dead.
    Any suggestions.
    Thanks Brian
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    THAT SKIM MODULE HAS TO BE PROGRAMMED BY THE DEALER TO RECOGNIZE YOUR KEY. OTHERWISE IT WILL SHUT OFF. YOU MAY JUST NEED THE REPROGRMMING NOW.
  • I have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee limited 5.2 and when i drive it , it will be doing fine then all of a sudden it looses rpms and is guttless. almost like it is getting no fuel. it is throwing a check engine light. but i don't have a way to read the code.
  • duffy2514duffy2514 Posts: 10
    edited January 2011
    you can get the codes by putting your key in the switch and turn it to the on and off positions three times. DO NOT START IT. on the last turn leave it in the on position and count the flashes of the check engine lite. there will be flashes then a slight pause then more flashes. when it is finished it will flash 5 times then pause then 5 more flashes . 55 is the code that let's you know it has finished it's cycle. after you get the codes you can go to autozones web site and it will tell you what the codes mean. or you can go and have a mechanic test it for you but they will charge you about 80.00 for something you can do free. the chiltons manual is a great investment cause it has all the codes listed in it and will tell you how to do the test i just described. i hope this helps. steve
  • Lets see if I can add a bit more to this. My daughter has an 03 Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7. It stalled on her last night. I went over and it started right up. Smelled real bad of gas after starting. When she got off work, I had my son driver me over so I could drive it home. 2 miles down the road, it dyed like the key was turned off. Started back up and down the road for about another 2 miles when it started to dye and the tach went nuts. Started back up and drove it home. When I got home, my son said it smelled like gas bad every time it stalled.
    Brought home the scanner and it had high air flow, Ign Crank Sensor, Knock Sensor, Evap System ( had this for a while), Trans engine Speed Input. I figured some of the codes where from the crank sensor going bad. My son inlaw brought home an aftermarket crank sensor and we put it in. Car starts right up and runs for a couple minutes and dyes. Crank Sensor code again. Maybe bad or the wrong one?? Run down to Chrysler and buy another one. Install and car starts right up. Dyes right away. No codes. Start up and runs for twenty minutes or more while I eat dinner. Keep going back to check and its still running. Go inside to grab my wallet to take it for a ride and it is dead again. WTF!! Try to start it and it just turns over and doesn't fire. Wait a while and go back out. Try to start is and it sounded out of time, rpm gauge is going crazy, and smells real bad of gas. Wait a minute and try again and now it sounds like it is just turning over with no spark and barley any compression!!!!! Jeep has 128k miles on it.
    Scott
  • Without being there to check a few things, I am guessing. I know many Jeeps with far more mileage on them without jumping time or breaking a timing chain. BUT that is what it sounds like. That "free spinning, no compression" comment is what sort of rings the bell. To know for sure, pull the valve cover gasket and turn it over. I don't believe the 4.7 is an interference engine. (I don't think the valves kiss the pistons when the timing chain breaks) Check with your dealer to be sure. If not and if the chain is the problem, replace the chain and gears. Be sure to pull the oil pan and empty it and clean it thoroughly. Remember the oil pump and pickup as well. Best of luck...
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    As of Feb 1 2011, I have changed battery, added ground from head to firewall, cleaned contacts, installed new skim module and had it programmed by dealer and two new keys at the same time, also installed a new ignition switch and it still stalls after 2.5 seconds and the gauges still dont work. Is it time for a new pcm/ecu ?. I am running out of patients with this thing but i love driving it and it looks like new. Any other suggestions.
    Thanks Brian
  • Brian; i thougth I had replied, possibly lost. I had the precise same problem. I got a new PCM, pre-flashed and programmed, from AutoZone. I had to take them the old unit, the VIN # and the exact mileage. I got the new PCM in like 4 days, about $250 total. It plugged in (three plugs) and has been running like a fine Swiss watch since. (a year ago, almost 30,000 miles ago) I had done everything you did except the SKIM, but I never got a SKIM light or failure. Honest, they PCM's die excactly like your symptoms. Gauges, few seconds, dead. Starts perfect, dies. I thought the Ign. switch myself, tried the battery and grounds, tried backing out the torx bolts holding the PCM, nothing helped. The new PCM was instant and perfect.
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    To scottj1
    New pcm on its way from a company in Florida for $165.00 with a warranty.
    They were real helpfui also. Found them on E-bay. They are 95% sure this
    will fix my problem.
    Thanks for the help.
    Brian
  • bee007bee007 Posts: 12
    I replaced the pcm and that was it , starts up does not stall, all the gauges work, windows ect. The best $165.00 i have ever spent. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way.
    Brian
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    GREAT NEWS BRIAN.... THANKS FOR POSTING THE RESULTS....... ALOT OF PEOPLE FORGET ONCE IT STARTS WORKING....
    ALAN
  • 94grandcher94grandcher Posts: 3
    edited February 2011
    I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the following symptons:
    Fuel pump comes on with key turn.
    Car starts fine.
    Car immediately dies with no fuel.
    Fuel pump does not seem to run after initial ignition.
    Car runs fine if gas provided through carbs.
    Alarm module has been removed.

    I'm working on getting an adapter so I can pressure test, but seems the fuel pump does not pressurize the system beyond the initial power-on.

    I'm curious if there are common culprits I can address here.
Sign In or Register to comment.