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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • My '02 cherokee limited with the 4.7v8 started up with the stalling recently. I will come to a stoplight or stop sign, whatever requires stopping and the idle drops way low sometimes it will stall out, and other times it will fight its way back up to normal. However the stalling is becoming more frequent now, i was just curious if you had found out what was the problem, because i'm quite tired of sticking money into things that it 'could' be as all the mechanics say. your help would be greatly appreciated!
  • I have had intermittent problems with my Grand Cherokee. Initially, it wouldn't start so, we took it to be diagnosed and the reader said, "No link". Replaced computer and got moving. Few days ago, jeep stalled and won't start again. Reader says, "No link" replaced o2 sensor, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coil... still nothing. Can't believe the computer which has less then 100 miles on it has gone bad again. Any ideas?? Please help.
  • I purchased my 07 Jeep grand cherokee overland 6 months ago has a v8 Hemi and it stalls while driving for no apparent reason. No engine lights come on. Once in park it will start and drive fine. I have had it in the dealers 8 times since I purchased it and no codes have appeared so alls they have done is replace the automatic shut off relay. I thought it was fixed and then it stalled on me yesterday... Very frustrating because I was in the middle of an intersection and almost got T-boned. Anyone have any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.
  • I spent $230 ($45 overnight shipping) and got a new PCM for my 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ). My mechanic installed it in 30 mins with a full scan and diagnostics to make sure it was running properly. It's been 3 months and the car runs great. Even gained a few miles in gas mileage. I bought from Auto Computer Resources: ( and they offer lifetime warranties on their rebuilt/remanufactured PCMs when you send in the old PCM. Buy on eBay and save another $20.

    IMPORTANT: Make sure you include, make, model, year, odometer reading, vin number, old PCM model number and description of your problem. They'll custom program the new PCM to all of the above--as well as confirm whether you need a new PCM based on your problem. Be as detailed as possible with info from your mechanic. They're in a tough position because they can only send you a good PCM but if that's not really your problem, then a new PCM won't help. I thought this was pretty cool of them. I guess they've had their fair share of customer whose problems weren't PCM related.

    WARNING: Don't confuse ACR with Auto Computer Exchange ( These guys get a lot of returns and only offer 1 year warranty. And I found one too many complaints about them.

    Lastly, I read on a few of the forums that Mopar does NOT offer new PCMs for older Jeeps. They actually buy rebuilds from these 3rd party companies, diagnose, package up and ship them off to Jeep certified repair shops and service shops who then charge an arm and leg to program and install. Another interesting tidbit, a lot of the these companies are in the south eastern states (FL, LA, TX). Due to hurricane katrina and other natural disasters hundreds of thousands of cars were trashed--including their PCMs. Hope this helps.
  • I know its been awhile since you last posted on this matter. Did the replacing of the camshaft sensor help your problem of your Jeep? I am having the same problem with the '99 jeep GCL. I have had the crankshaft sensor replaced but still does "the stalling while driving" thing. Please, let me know if this help and where was the camshaft sensor located?
  • 96jeepgcl96jeepgcl Posts: 3
    edited February 2012
    I have owned a jeep GCL for @7 years. I have had few problems with it and love it. When it started to act up, it surprised me what was going on becaue it was always verry dependable.
    About 4-5 years ago I had the first problem.
    When i started the jeep and put it in to gear and started to go it would die. it acted like i turned off the key, just died. Then it got hard to even start. That problem was the crank timing sensor. It is located at 10:00 position on bell housing (From under the vechile) . To get to it takes long arms and small hands. Oh and a lot of extenions and knuckle on a ratchet. Replaced with a new one from parts store for @ $70.00.
    Then for the last few months the big one happened.
    Ill try to explain in as much detail as i can.
    My girl friend usally drives the jeep, so some times the problems are not always the easyest to figure out when she has no mechanical back ground at all.
    She kept telling me that the jeep woul die on her and couln't explain what happened when it did. I would show up and it would run fine. Then about a week a go i was driving and it happened to me.
    I was driving down the road at 45mph and it lost power, it was still running, but if ya gave gas nothing. It had dropped about 1000rpm and stayed there for a few seconds (@ 5-6 seconds) then it was fine for about 30 seconds, then again lost 1000 rpm and it back fireded and started going again. I drove about 2 mile down the road then it died at the stop light. It started back up and ran with the occational dieing along the way. No check engine light or any thing. Then about 2 days ago it died when my girl friend was making a turn and she almost hit the car that was going to turn on to the road she came off of because she lost power steering.
    At this point I really had to do something about it. So i was reading the posts here and everyone had the symptoms and no answers.
    I found a youtube vidieo (). Now im not really one to do this but i figured that since I had done all the trouble shooting in the hanes manual, and noticed that when it died and would not start i could still smell fuel, that the problem was electrical. Now mine did not have the loose connections just pulling it apart and puting it back together, The problem has seemed to dissapeared.
    I would like to note that if you do deside to pull the pcm apart, that what you are prying on is a pc board so be carefull not to break it. And you have to pull the jell apart, when you are prying on it so it is kinda hard to get apart.
    I will post again in a week and let you know if i have any other problems with it.
    Take care and good luck with your trouble shooting!
  • The cam shaft sensor on my 96 is under the secondary pickup in the distribitor.
  • i read on another forum, and did this fix for my 96 grand cherokee 4.0. jeep would stall randomly. the pcm for the jeep is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side firewall, behind the coolant bottle. there should be 3 harnesses going into it. while the jeep is running, wiggle those wires. if it stalls, then remove the collant bottle, 3- 10mm nuts. disconnect the negative battery cable. remove the 3 harnesses. you'll see 2 small screws there. they are torx head #15. replace these 1/2" screws with 1/4" #6 sheet metal screw. i used 3/8" with a washer (i couldnt find 1/4"). replace everything in reverse. start the jeep and try to wiggle the harnesses while it's running again., it shouldnt stall. mine didnt and has been good since i did this.
  • Hi,
    I really don't want do do smart alec, but I bought a scan tool recently and it was a very useful bargain. It not only shows the troublecodes (you didn't have any), it shows you also the operation and sensor data. What's wery important, it can also show the oxygen sensor condition (current amplitude), so you can find out, if it's to be replaced (worn out) ot not.
    I have the same problem with the instrument cluster light, I removed the dimmer switch module from the dashboard and cleaned the pod contacts. No problems anymore.
    I hope it will help you.
  • I have a 01 grand cherokee with a 4.0. Just this week, with temps in the 20s, it did not start with just a turn of the key. It took several seconds of cranking and pumping the gas pedal to start. Once started I released the pedal and the jeep died... there was nothing. I started it again and this time kept the accelerator pressed down to keep the rpms above a grand. The vehicle will stay running at that point. If i release the accelerator it dies again. Only keeping the rpms above 1k will keep it running. When the engine warms up things start to improve. As it gets warmer it will start to idle in its own for a few min, but rough, and then finally when the engine is warm the engine will start right up with no resistance and the idle will be smooth and the jeep will drive fine. It is now in the 40s and am still having the same problem with the jeep, so its not extreme cold only, just cold. I have read lots of post and it seems like there are 50 things this could be. I'm guessing IAC and coolant temp sensor may be the culprits but don't want to dump tons of money into it if it is maybe something else. I know I am going to have to probable replace a few things before the problem is pinpointed, but just would like to know the best sequence to do try repairs. Thank you for any help. I can provide any more information about this problem that is needed to help get this fixed.
  • I have a 94 limited which was doing the same thing. Nothing like getting stranded in Death Valley... Anyway, as you, I replaced the coil umpteen times a year, for about two years. I finally found a mechanic who found the problem was the crankshaft sensor. I recommend that if you replace this, don't go aftermarket; they don't work too well. I hope this solves your problem(s).
  • The key to confirming the source of the problem of no start when cold is to carefully observe whether the fuel pump starts immediately when turning the key to ignition position(Not cranking). In a normal situation, the fuel pump should run for at least 3 seconds when key is set to ignition. This way, by the time your engine cranks, fuel is present. In a very quiet environment, turn the key to ignition and carefully listen for the fuel pump to operate. You should hear it right away. If you leave the key in ignition and notice it takes anywhere from 3-10 seconds for the fuel pump to activate, the problem is within the PCM(Powertrain Control Module). There is acually a very inexpensive solution to repairing it yourself as well instead of buying refurbished for $200.00. Additional symptoms related to this issue are random engine stalls that start right up, and transmission slip in cold weather
  • 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. About a month ago, I was driving and the gauge lights all came on, lights got dim, meter with battery symbol went to 9 and it died. Got out tightened negative cable and jumped it. It ran a month with battery gauge at 14. 3 nights ago same thing. Moved cables and jumped it, and made it home. got in last night, and battery meter gauge was at about 12, went about a mile and it was draining fast...went to 9. tried to jump, wouldn't start. today put new battery cable ends on, jumped it. It went to 14 on gauge, then 12, back to 14. Took to shop, he put it on machine. His machine read 12 and he said it was alternator. When he backed it out of the shop, mechanic was surprised it went back to 14 at the gauge. He wants us to have alternator rebuilt Monday and bring it to him to install. I can't afford to fix what may not be the issue. Does this sound like the problem to you????
  • I have a 99 jeep and am having a problem with it aint shure what it is it had set in the shop for about 3 years bring it to the house it turns over very well but wont even try to start ive put gas in it and even tried starting fluid and it wont even try to start but turns over very well it acts like it aint getting any fire would anyone know what my problem could be?
  • Check the fire from the ignition coil. you can buy a spark tester for about 10 buck's at your local part's house. remember a yellow spark is the same as no spark on these jeep's. the spark must be blue . I have recurring issue's with mine only in hot weather. i purchased a coil with a unlimited lifetime warrenty. it cost a little more but they have replaced it 5 time's free.
    I purchased a extra coil cause every time it would quit running i would have to call a tow truck. a 10 mm socket is all that's required to change it then i go trade the bad one for another new one. i'm not sure what cause's it unless it's the heat breaking it down. good luck. steve
  • lairbearlairbear Posts: 2
    :( My friends 94 JGC 4.0L (170,000 Miles) will start up fine but then after temperature stablizes, while driving around town making several stops at various places within a 30 min time frame, she starts up the engine, it idles rough, kind of like it has a mis in several cylinders then will idle just fine after about one minute later. Kind of like smoothes out.
    I can hear tapping noises coming from within the valve cover even when it is cold as well as hot and I asked her about this she said this has been going on since she bought the truck used.
    The following sensors have been checked.
    TPS, IAC, MAP, Intake temp sensor, OX sensor, Fuel rail pressure regulator, water temp sensor, new plugs...a light brown color on plugs...spark plug wires, rotor and cap.
    The item replaced was the fuel rail pressure regulator which would allow the pressure to go up to 40 psi and not drop back down to 32-34 psi. After replacement, the fuel pressure stablizes around 34 psi with vacuum variations...No more 40 psi.
    I did check the vacuum and during smooth idle, no needle fluctuations @ 14 inches but when rough idle lots of fluctuations until the engine smooths out. I'm thinking when engine starts up again, possible lack of oil within the lifters or lifter bleed off until oil pressure fills lifters? Oil is thinner.
    I have not had the valve cover off as of yet and I hope the rockers have had oil during this period of time whereas if not , then there could be more possible problems.
    I'm thinking about adding Gum Out oil treatment to hopefully free up any defective lifters.
    Any ideas folks?
  • ornumornum Posts: 5

    I have the same symptoms with my '98 JGC Limited 5.2 134K.

    My mechanic suspects the CPS, (crank position sensor)

    And many moons ago on my old '87 JGC 4.0L same thing. Your in luck, the CPS on the 4.0 is a lot easier to get to than on my 5.2. On yours it is on the bell housing, and can be reached from underneath jeep.

    The v8 engines require the removal of the wires, cap, and heat shield on the passenger to reach it. And a star tip head on the bolts. Not fun for me.

    '87 i had when I lived in FL, and when it went in the heat, it left me stranded. My current address here in up state NY this time of year with the cold weather has allowed me to get away with out having to change it so far, but when the weather gets warmer, I won't have a choice.

    I am on call almost 24/7 so finding the time to do it my self is difficult and the look on the mechanics face, well on my Jeep it would be most likely 2 hrs or more to get to the two bolts and plug. So I will try and get it my self when I have no other choice. save my self $150 - $200 in labor.

    Good luck.
  • duffy2514duffy2514 Posts: 10
    I had a similar issue with my jeep, the tapping noise you hear could be the fuel injecter's. take a long screwdriver and place the handle to your ear and place the other end on each fuel injecter. you should be able to hear very clearly whether it is the injecter's and not a oil issue. if you dont have the correct fuel pressure at the rail the injecter's will make noise . Also if you listen for the fuel pump to run and build up the pressure it will crank easier and may fix the rough idle. ( it did on my 93 with the 5.2 litre engine ) The injector's will sound just like a lifter or push rod knock. Also your fuer pressure regulator may be letting your fuel drain back into the tank after turning off the engine, another reason for listening for the fuel pump to do it's thing before cranking. the fuel pump should only have to run for about 5 second's and you should be able to hear it hum when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. another thing to try is marvel mystery oil. you can use it in the oil and gas however be very careful using fuel additive's because they can release dirt and contaminant's in your fuel system and that is a expensive fix. Is your jeep's check engine light coming on? if it is there's a easy way to retreave the engine code's. turn your key to the on and off position three time's and stop with it on the run position (do not start the engine) the check engine light should start flashing, just count the flashe's and when it flashes five time's then pause's and flashe's five more time's that is code 55 which mean's it has finished it's cycle. autozone or several website's can tell you what the flash / number's mean. have a good day, good luck. steve
  • Just to let you all know its been almost a month now since I pulled apart pcm and reinstalled. I am happy to say that we have not had a problem since. I guess like a computer that has issues, you open it up and reseat stuff. Seems to have worked here.
    Thanks and I wish you all good luck with your trouble shooting.
  • jackielmjackielm Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    Ok so I bought a 96 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo last August.. It started bucking while driving and then dying. When it dies while driving, you can smell fuel. It isn't throwing any codes at all and I have replaced the fuel filter, pump, plugs n wires.. I have taken it to two mechanics but everytime I take it to get checked it runs perfect like it hates me. I recently had a friend check it out and he said that the cover to my pcm isn't there. idk if that has anything to do with it.. anyone else having these weird problems?
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