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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • knick31knick31 Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 55,000 on it and it was running fine until my wife tried to start it after running some errands and all she got was a clicking noise and then nothing. I cleaned up the battery cable connections and made sure everything was tight. I then tried to start it but to no avail. I then tried jumping it but all that helped was that it would just crank. When I do try to turn it on the lights on the gauges come on and the gauges will go back and forth then stop but it will not crank? Is it something with the security system?...Thanks
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    how old is the batt?
    these jeeps have to have a good batt or you have all kinds of prob
    if batt is 2 or 3 years old get a new one try it you might just solve your prob
  • knick31knick31 Posts: 4
    I replaced the battery and had a new key made..no luck. Mechanic from the dealership stopped by to program the key and stated that it is more than a key problem. Had it towed back to the shop. Also noticing a loud buzzing sound from engine fuse box which he had never heard before. He stated it was from the transmission control fuse? But it least it has power and will crank but not fire off...need some positive thinking..hope it is just a control module....
  • knick31knick31 Posts: 4
    Quick fix on the Jeep...only had a blown fuse (ATC10)so I am off and running...at least I now have a spare key!!! Thanks to all for your input..hope this helps anyone in the future.
  • c_nissec_nisse Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport and was having the "no bus" message show on the display while driving. It would be accompanied by an airbag and check-engine light, along with the speedometer and tachometer dropping to 0. I was able to either hold down the trip meter and "reset" it or wait 60 seconds or so for it to clear on its own. Took it to the dealership and they said it was caused by a faulty guage cluster connector. I never had issues with it not starting as a result, but thought it might help to know that "no bus" means there is a probably a break somewhere in the electrical system.
  • c_nissec_nisse Posts: 3
    My 01 Cherokee Sport inline V6 just started doing the same thing, but with a #1 cylinder misfire code. I have changed my plugs (used OEM Champion plugs), cleaned the fuel injection system, and have a fuel filter on order at the dealership... no dice so far. I read something about carbon deposits on another forum and will try the distilled water flush next weekend before switching out the filter. My issue is also accompanied by a solid when resting and flashing when going above 30mph check-engine light. Please let me know if you found the fix. In retrospect, I think this issue crept up over the span of 1 month. Started with the occassional warm start chugging to now happening under any type of heat stress (stop and go/slow and go traffic).
  • My 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee (L6 4.0 liter) keeps stalling. 25% of the time, in runs fine. But usually, it sounds like it fires about 2-3 cylinders per cycle when accelerating and the RPM goes up very slowly and choppy. By this time, if I let go of the gas, It will slowly choke itself. I changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, and it still remains the same.. I took it to 3 mechanics and they can't figure it out..
    But this is my idea, and if you can, tell me if it's a possibility. I used to have a 92 mercury tracer, and a 94 ford ranger. And they both had the same problem. The left blinker would get stuck on the on position, without blinking. And both cars would sometimes die out.. And when i got them fixed, it was the same problem. It was a short in the wiring which killed the fuel pump..
    Now, my Jeep keeps reading that there is a rear tail lamp failure and the reverse parking lights do not work, though the fuse is fine and i replaced both bulbs. Could that short possibly be the cause this problem???
  • I have the same vehicle with what sounds like the same exact problem. It idles really rough (RPMs fluxuating while in park and sounds rough) intermittently on start - up, then upon acceleration chokes, hesitates, and nearly stalls. I haven't heard the popping sound yet. This issue started in the winter about a year and half ago. At first it only seemed to happen when it was cold, but its summer now and happened 3 days in a row. I have had it into the dealership at least a half a dozen times and I don't even know how many things they have checked and/or replaced (fuel system, battery, computer), but have never been able to duplicate or fix the problem and the computer never has any fault codes. I know this doesn't necessarily help you, but reading your post made me feel like I'm not crazy. There are lots of posts out there that seem similar but not exactly the same thing. If I get it fixed or find something I'll let you know, and maybe you could do the same for me?

    Thanks.
  • em82678em82678 Posts: 1
    Hey everyone! I have a 96 Country with over 101,000 miles that won't start unless I put my foot on the gas and leave it there for a few minutes. Sometimes if I take my foot off it dies. I know it's not my battery because my radio work, the power windows work, ect :confuse: . My check engine light isn't on so I don't know what's wrong with it. My air filter is good and clean, however, I'm not sure about the fuel filter. Anyone know what could be causing this? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    suspect you have tps going bad
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    The throttle position sensor is a likely trouble spot. In a fuel injected vehicle keeping your foot on the pedal keeps the throttle plate full open which lets more air in.
  • I wanted to see if anybody had any issues even remotely like this before or any suggestions. I just picked up the new vehicle yesterday. This morning I unlocked the doors with the key fob, opened a couple of the doors and loaded my luggage, then I did the key sequence on the keyfob (lock+panic) to turn off the BEEP when you lock the car. After all this I go to start it (correct starting procedure - wait for glow light to go out) and the starter cranks the engine with no firing at all. I repeat and wait several times. Finally after I have waited about 2 more minutes, I tried again and it fired right up like it is supposed to. I put nearly 500 miles on it today stopping and starting all day long with no more problems.

    Any clues? Could the combination of opening the doors and playing with the key fob have temporarily confused the immobilizer? I talked to 4 dealers and none of them have heard of this problem before. No check engine light
  • Hey, all.....
    2002 JGC Laredo with +- 93K....extreme hesitation after stopping...have to keep literally stomping on gas pedal...
    very fast idle upon starting in morning, sometimes as high as 3000 RPM...very noisy....had transmission fluid and filter changed out around a month ago, everything seemed fine....trouble started back up about 3 days ago. Also, as I'm driving along, I've noticed a loss of power accompanied by revving of the engine, only fix has been to pump gas until it works its way out....after idle calms down upon starting, I get a shaking,sputtering sensation...almost like it's going to stall out. Finally, my engine light is ALWAYS on, code refers to gas cap/emissions....CANNOT get it cleared.
    ANY help is appreciated....taking my Heep to the garage on Saturday.... :mad:
  • ohno2ohno2 Posts: 9
    Hi, I went to Autozone and I was told that it would be too hard for me to replace and I should take it to a Jeep Service Center and not to any other stations. So... I did. The problem was the wiring (core return). They said the 3 wires were not properly connected.(Connector at starter). I needed another new battery because it shorted. "This is the third new battery I purchased" So far, it works. Total cost $440.00 not including the tow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
    :blush:
    Thanks again everyone. If anyone is still having problems check the wiring. Jeep seems to have a lot of problems with electrical wiring.
    Thanks :)
  • I just brought this used 1999 JGC stalls when I reach 60 mph and five mins stalls out by loss of power or feel like it need gas or loss of vacuum pressure an jump to 200rpm and then bottoms out or it may catch it self with gas and run but it always stalls at the light or on the express way . When it stall sometimes it will start right away or it may take 5-30 mins to crank over to start again and the cycle start again . The check engine lite m come on but most of the time the check lite come on. This problems are all the time but it was not as steady now i can't go to far on expressway because it will happen for sure. PLEASE HELP . I change the spark plugs and check the fuel lines . :cry: :( :confuse: Can any help with be possible problems :sick:
  • My 2001 Jeep grand cherokee LE starts up fine, does not stall, but the idle raises itself to 3000rpm and down and then up and then down? Please help me before I blow up my jeep [My dealer can not figure it out although it has been there many times with the same problem, they say there is nothing wrong. They just keep saying come and pick it up it is fine and then the same problem occurs. Thanks Liz
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have them change the TPS
    sounds as if not working right
  • To tuggajb, Thank you for your reply I hope this will work. .
  • I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (2Wheel Drive) and it has about 140k miles. When it runs, it runs great – I have never had any problems with this car. However, something is now draining the battery and I have had it to the station to be fixed so many times that they can't find anything else to check. What happens is everything is fine if the car is driven everyday. But if it sits for more than a day the battery will drain and the car won’t start. There is no consistency to the problem, it can sit for 2 days and a brand new battery will be dead or sometimes it can take 3 weeks driving the car occasionally for the battery to drain. Mainly it happens if the car sits for more than 2-3 days, but then other times it has sat for a few weeks and was fine. This is not my primary car so it's hard to drive it everyday to ensure this doesn't keep happening. The station put it on the computer and can't find anything on the diagnostic check, we disabled the alarm, stereo since we put in a different one from the factory, replaced the starter, they can't find a short in the wires, yet something is not right. Would you have any ideas by chance? I would like to sell this car since I have a new one, but in good faith I can't sell knowing that it has this problem especially since I live in a small town :) Thanks in advance for any suggestions that you might have.
  • I just bought a used JGC 1998, it has been in the shop more than I had it. I test drove it-loved it-bought it. The next week I had to change the Catalytic Converter, then two weeks after it stalled on me while idle at a light, started right back up with no check engine light on. Mechanic says I need a sensor, I got a Idle Air Control,and two others don't exactly remember the names(he says they are very common on these jeeps. Next day stalls again while driving down the block. Mechanic says IAC sensor is bad so he changed it again. A few days later stalls and hesitant to start while idle again NOW this time it's running really rough and sputters at lights, in traffic. My fuel light came on too and then all of a sudden dissaperaed again. Mechanic says it must be that my jeep only likes parts from the dealer so he changed sensor AGAIN and cleaned fuel injectors!! Still runs crappy,and breaks down at stop sign very rough.
    I went to a NEW mechanic, the computer test told him that I need: Ignition Coil, Fuel Pump Relay, and a new computer ECM....TOTAL 762.10 ugghhh...Help what do you think??Sorry so long.... :lemon:
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