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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Brake Questions

2

Comments

  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I wonder what I did wrong. I had over 33000 miles on my CrewCab 4x4 when I sold it and over 10000 miles of towing it behind my motorhome. It also had its own braking system so I really had over 44000 miles on it. A number of times I could feel it engage more than what I pushed on my motorhome brakes so it was slightly draging down the motorhome. Motorhome is 38 feet long and weighs close to 21000 lbs. I must have gotten some bad brakes to last that long. :shades:
  • we have a 2008 gmc canyon crew cab with the offroad suspension, but not the 4x4 gearing the brakes are noisy and squel almost every time my wife brakes , the truck has only 18k and we are not hard on the brakes. the dealer did look at them and put on something called quiet stop or something like that but they still squel.Anyone else have this problem?
  • Consider yourself lucky. My squeal started at 6000kms and I have had it in twice.

    my 08 crew is 4x4 and my calipers had the bushings beat out of them at 8000k's....because they wouldn't fix the rotors that pulsed since the day I drove it off the lot. They finally put it on a brake lathe....changed my pins, bushing and calipsers....put the stop squeal on again....all is well with everything else...except the squeel is back....now at 11000ks...

    The rear brake grab is known and its actually on of the TSB's for the Canyon
  • Could any one please advise if the front brake rotors are pressed on to the bearings on the canyons.I am coming due for a brake job and I hear horror stories of intensive and costly brake jobs on the Canyons.I would attempt to change the rotors but to use a hydraulic press is another bowl of wax.Please Comment.Thanks
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Long time coming but here's an answer anyway...

    Rotors rust. They rust if you don't use your truck for a week. They are make of cheap [non-permissible content removed] steel and they rust. I used to make them in a drop-steel foundry.

    If you are driving and the rotors have rust on the face, your brakes are not applying enough pressure to the rotors.

    Under normal conditions, one or two uses of the brakes will completely clean the face of the rotor (unless you left it at the beach for a year).

    Daily use rotors are cleaned by use and the build up of crap goes into the brake dust.

    Consider checking your braking system if you have rust on your rotors during normal usage.
  • This might be a little late for your situation, however I'll try to offer some help...I recently purchased a "Haynes Repair Manual" for Colorado/Canyons. There are several pictures of the brake system in the book.

    The one picture shows a 2WD front end, and even though the text mentions rotor removal in the same breath as hub removal, the picture shows a couple of "Tinnerman nuts" holding the rotors in place. I would then assume that if you remove the nuts, the rotors should come off.

    I have a 4WD Canyon, and although I'm not positive how the rotors are held on, there are what appear to be bolts located betwen each lug stud. I would be tempted to conclude that these bolts hold the rotors in place. Since my rotors are in good shape, however, I'm not tempted at this point to see if these are indeed rotor retaining bolts.
  • Good points!

    I currently have 26,000 miles on my '05 Canyon 4x4. This vehicle is primarily used as my "winter driver" so if anybody should have problems, I should. Road salt does "simply wonderful things" to a vehicle, and my Canyon see plenty of it!

    I took the front pads out this past fall, and yes, the tips of the pad's backing plates had corroded, and were not sliding freely in the calipers. I simply took a file, and smoothed down the tabs, ensuring that they moved freely in the calipers. I also removed the "slider pins", and cleaned and re-greased them.

    In the rear, every year I remove the drums, spray the backing plates and springs with Simple Green, to remove any accumulated road salt, rinse everything, and then blow out the water with a leaf blower. Re-install the drums, and I'm good for another year.

    I don't "baby" this truck, but I don't beat on it either. As I said, I have 26,000 miles on this truck right now, and the shoes/pads look like they'll go another 30-40,000 miles without any problem.
  • I have an 05 with 80K miles. My parking brake will not release unless I go under the truck and do it manually. Has anyone had this problem before? And, how might I go about fixing it? I have replace the brakes but no luck.

    Thanks
  • Peel back the rubber boots on the end of the cables, and spray some lubricant in the ends of the e-brake cables. Then work the cables in and out to work in the lube. Also, spray the foot mechanism in the cab.

    If that doesn't work, pull the drums back off and make sure the e-brake linkage is also able to move freely, without any binding.
  • tgiltgil Posts: 1
    Any resolution on your brake problems w/ the Canyon? I'm having same issues on the Colorado I have owned since '06 and tired of ALL OF IT!
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    Yes and No… cable squeak is gone after lubing the crap out of it. Bad design. No protection from the elements. I expect this to fail on most vehicles without anyone knowing until it is too late!

    As for the braking power or lack thereof… I have not done the fix yet but they did change the whole braking system on the truck. The new equipment fits the old models. “they say” they put in a more powerful master cylinder and better calipers. We will see. It will be time for me to change out the fronts again in about 2 months so I am just upgrading to Baer calipers and rotors in the front. I am going to buy the new master cylinder from GM.
    They have done thing for the rear at all form what I can see though.

    Bad Bad Bad design!!!
    BUT… I will say I do have 140K on the truck and bought it in 8/06 with no engine issues. My check engine light did come on around 110K but that was caused by a old gas cap letting air in the tank… changed out gas cap and good to go… Also the air flow control switch (the one that indicated deforst, feet/face ect) failed as well. Time to replace that now.
  • I know this is an old post, but did you ever have any luck with a final resolution to the brake problems. '06 Colorado...same problems.
    Thx
    Tony
  • The good news is the rotors are not pressed on. I just did the front brakes on my son's Colorado yesterday & had no idea what I was in for, but got through it. What you're going to find after removing the wheel is 5 or 6 bolts through the face of the hub that attach the rotor to the hub. The bad news is the rotor is mounted behind the hub. This means you need to remove the hub in order to resurface or replace the rotor. Removing the bolts on the face of the hub as well as the caliper bracket bolts will probaby require an impact wrench (I have an inexpensive electric one that barely did the trick). After removing the face bolts & caliper bracket you need to remove the 4 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle that secure the hub. This would be much easier if GM hadn't put 2 of them right next to a verticle link & the ball joint bump in the lower control arm. You'll also need to trace the speed sensor wire from the back of the hub up to the connector located inside the wheel well (it's part of the hub assy & cannot be removed from the hub, so don't think you're simply going to pry it off, that would be way too simple). You have to remove all the clips & brackets that secure the wire to the upper control arm & remove the connector bracket from the inside of the wheel well in order to disconnect it. Once all this is done you can pull the hub, rotor, backing plate away while feeding the wire & all the stuff attached to it through the hole in the mount. Assembly is the exact opposite, besure to use lock-tight when putting it all back together because tightening a couple of the bolts is a little sketchy.

    I had to talk to my mechanic to get the lowdown the speed sensor wire & he told me they typically charge 3 hours for that job (a normal brake reline is only 1 hour). I wouldn't attempt this without an impact wrench because you're probably not going to be able to remove all the bolts that have to be removed without one. But if you have one, it's really not all that difficult & time well spent for the amount of $$$ you save.
  • joeg55joeg55 Posts: 1
    I'll echo what scottmc says, this is a bit of a tough job! I didn't have an impact wrench but managed with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and sockets. Once I got all the nuts and bolts off the biggest problem was beating the hub apart from the rest of the mount. I think the lock-tite the factory used was made out of JBweld or something equally difficult to remove! Once that was done though the job is fairly easy to finish. Only took me 4 hours to do one wheel but most of that was finding the right hammer to beat the thing into submission! Make sure you can support the hub when ti comes free of the vehicle, it is pretty heavy in your lap!
  • 08 Colorado Crew 4x4
    First year and...
    rear brakes wore completely out before mileage hit 15k.
    Dealer replaced shoes and drums under tsb/warranty. Said problem was a zip tie still on e-brake cable / original drums were not turned.

    Now 15k later and the rear brakes are gone completely.
    dealer Charged me $75 for diagnosis fee then says brakes are not covered because it is normal wear and tear. Did not give me the cause of the problem.

    - I keep thinking of some type of hydrolic pressure actuation ?

    - So I have personally purchased "premium" shoes and drums and am having an independent general mechanic doing the work.
  • Good Luck! I have and 06 Colorado Crew 4x4 I bought brand new in 06. My first set of rear brakes went out at 8000 miles they told me that something had stuck and the brakes were always on. They replace the drums and shoes. They lasted another 10,000 miles and were out again. This time they told me I back up to much and the brakes are always adjusting when you back up and they wouldn't cover them. I started going to a private mechanic he tells me that the way they design the back brakes on these trucks are a joke the shoes are so thin but there is not a enough room to put in thicker shoes. They have got them to last for between 15,000 and 20,000 but I do use my truck to deliver mail too.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Just received a July 2010 recall notice on my 2006 Canyon from GM for Safety Recall 09049 which involves "a brake lamp switch that may not work as designed due to contamination in the switch." Contact the dealer on or after August 26 for free repair.
  • sean91sean91 Posts: 10
    Posting to track items.
  • My '05 Canyon is squeaking as I roll at 35 MPG or less until I put my foot on the brakes. Any ideas as to why? Wife had the brakes changed I believe while I was deployed. She can't remember exactly what was doen and didn't keep the record of the work.
  • I've read through everyone's comments and appreciate the education it has brought me. I have mixed feelings on the brake system on my 05 colorado 2wd. I have had the e brake cables repalced as a result of them sticking. My mechanic thinks it was caused at the area where the cable takes a sharp corner from under the chasis and up through the firewall where the pedal is. The friction in this area frays the cable and eventually it gets caught up within the protective sleave.

    Now for the front brakes. My colorado has 71k on it. I decided to change the front disk brakes, and I have to say they were the easiest set of pads I've ever replaced. Taking the tires off was the hard part. Had it done in about an hour and a half.

    I think it may be time to change the rear brakes, but that is where it may be beyond my capabilities to do. I'd like to do them myself to save the $$ but I'm worried about what I'll encounter. plus I have never changed drum shoes before.

    Any advice would help. Can a novice do this job?
  • I have 93 K on my '05 Colorado. After not using my parking brake for almost a year (the mileage per tank increased by 50 miles which shows the brake was dragging) I decided to have it fixed. The Chevy dealer diagnosed the problem as a bad FRONT cable. This was replaced for several hundred $ including labor and then they said that one of the rear cables needed replacement. At the next appointment which cost another $135.00 the problem seems to be fixed. I can now use the parking brake for parking on western Pennsylvania hills.

    There is either a bad design on these components or deteriorating materials. It's a shame that on so nice an overall design as the Colorado that little flaws like the park brake system keep it from being recognized as an industry leader. Come on GM, you can do better than that.

    GM has done a helluva lot of warranty work on my truck—paint issues: rust-perforation on the hood: faulty valve guide seals which necessitated a cylinder head replacement. If they build them right in the first place and we know they can, the y won't have warranty issues or unhappy owners.
  • brickred1brickred1 Posts: 3
    ? never had any problems with my 05 rear brakes. but had many problems with blower motor. repaid 2x under warranty,and went after. i e-mail gmc & complained about the problem and told them i didn't want to pay for another repiar. i also told them i wanted a permenet sulotion. so they told me to return it to the dealer and they repaired it for free. i had no moe problems with since. p.s i also let them know i was a loyal gm costumer.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,077
    brickred1,
    I'm glad your concerns were addressed. If you have any questions comments or concerns please feel free to contact me.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    Sold the '06 Colorado. It was an Extream, Blkack, 4 door. 171K miles. While the engine ran great, the rest of the truck was junk. The S10 was a far better truck. GM dropped the ball (as with most of the stuff they are putting out these days). Heater blower relay 4 times, wiper motor twice, I lost count on rear brake jobs (well over 20). Cellinoid (spelling?) for driver heated seat 2 times. And the list goes on. The I5 is solid though. Trans as well. Never had an issue. No leaks etc. Not even a tick. I used to buy a new GM truck ever 2-3 years. I now own a Nissan based 100% on how bad the customer service is with GM. I will never buy another. (8 trucks and 4 cars is enough).
    To be fair, the dealer (Bill Jacob's in Lisle) did not help either. The mechanics broke my head light during an oil change and would not fess up. They leaned on it and cracked the housing. I also had to get the wires to fog lamps fixed because as the dealer said "GM screwed upt he design and water runs down the wires so the rust and brake". When they did this they put the lamps in wrong so the shake when I drive. They said that is how they where when I brought it in and wanted $800 for replacments.

    GM is run by clueless people. Form marketing one down to Customer service. (how did the SSR10 work out?)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,077
    rukus2,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Have a great weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • pmchonepmchone Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    Thanks for the post. I had all the bolts off (only broke one socket) but the dang rotor/hub would not come off the spindle. What is the secret to getting the rotor assembly off the spindle???
  • colo06colo06 Posts: 4
    My father is or (was) a loyal GM customer, i could have been one but they didn't threat me like you. I have a 06 4x4 colorado 150000 km and i had so many problems whit it. I called them to tell them what was going on and they won't do nothing. Because I always repaired it myself and I didn't went to the dealer to fix it, they won't do nothing for me. They tell me that they maybe can fix a few things but i need to pay for the diagnosis !!!?? 110$/Hour=$$$$$$$

    I will let you know if i'm going to stay a good gm customer cause at the beginning i use to love that truck
  • I gather that you've already called GM of Canada? Have you already been in to have the work done? Please keep us posted, and I'm sorry that this experience is resulting in you falling out of love with your Colorado.

    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I just got my '05 colorado to haul my bike and it has been back to carmax 4 FOUR times. I explained to them that it was almost a grinding feeling as I used the brakes in traffic, a jerking grab as i coasted to a stop and a wobble at Hwy speeds ( I use cruise control for my commute to and from work). The second time I was told they couldnt find anything. (The Tech has me drive the car with him to try and explain what I was feeling) But, it might be the tire out of balance and they would go ahead and get all four balanced for me, lost he truck for a few days. I got the truck back had the same issues. call them back to set up another appointment. The third trip they told me the rotors were warped and they would have to replace them, lost the truck for about a week. The customer service rep assures me that they've nailed the issue and the truck is good togo. No more than a week later I'm setting up another appointment due the same wobble shaking the truck so bad you'd think a tire was going to fall off, absolutely driving me insane with the grind making me think I'm going to kill myself trying to get home one night when the breaks fail. Back to setting another appointment (fourth), the service Rep tells me that the tech ( a different one from the last) would like to drive the truck with me to see if they could "recreate" the issues I'd been having. sure enough the truck wobbles and grinds before we get out of the parking lot. We continued the test drive and I point it out to him as we ride and he give me the story of how hard the truck is to work on and how it still might be a balancing issue. I leave the truck with them. Day two the service rep calls me and says they have to turn the rotors. I ask could this be because when the put the new rotors on the didn't replace the pads? he had NO CLUE! the kicker that makes you want to freak out is the machine to turn the rotors was broken and they were trying to get it up so they could get me fixed up. OUTSTANDING! Now the question is when will I actually get the truck back. Three days, (3) days later I get the call the truck is ready and all issues have been resolved. I rearrange my wifes schedule and make plans to pick up the truck and once again before I can get out of the parking lot we ahve the same issues. My scheduled wouldnt allow for me to head strait to the Chevy dealer to have the people who built the damn thing tell me what was really wrong with it. and after reading these post, sound like they have no idea how to correct the problem either. The Christmas gift (purchase date DEC 21, 2011) to haul the motorcycle around and allow us to not be tethered to on car when we haed out of town has turn into a pain in the A##. Three months I'm working on and the truck still runs like S%^& and I just got an email from a Carmax manager asking my how was my last how my last visit went after seeing I had been in for service. I emailed him back asing if would cold talk about my visit(S) this friday and i"ve yet to hear from them. Of course the 30 day warranty is up and it nothing buy a up hill battle now. Shame on Chevy for neglecting a design flaw, not standing behind its brand and issuing a recall to fix this. Easy to see why they needed a bail out! a sad shame. If anyone can help I thank you in advance.
    :confuse:
  • I'm sorry to hear that your Colorado is creating such difficulty for you. I just want to make sure I understand: Carmax is an independent shop, not one of our dealerships, correct (I'm about 99% sure, but wanted to ask just in case)? And you haven't been in to one of our dealerships to have this looked at yet?

    If you were to visit one of our dealerships (I realize you state that your schedule makes this difficult), we would be interested in following up on how everything goes. Please get in touch via email if we can be of assistance.

    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
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