Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Brake Questions



  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Why jump on the Japanese bandwagon. Why not continue supporting American companies with either a Dodge Dakota or Ford Ranger or just buy a GMC Sierra.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    1st, let's be honest... nothing is made American. Open your hood. Dodge has the worst trans in the market. Ford... the F150 is a great truck.. but I cannot afford the MPG. I have never liked the Ranger. My Father had had nothing but issues with the 2 he had. I need a mid size... or at least a mid size MPG. I need a truck that will run for 200K+ miles. The Chevy was a staple in the garge... WAS. it kills me to know I will no longer buying "American" but we can't get our act together. now look at the evidence they are giving us in the way of price abuse! They are offering over $12K in rebates! Are you kidding me?!?!? What about the guy that bought his last year? His resale value dropped well over 30%! Not that you buy a truck as an investment but come on!
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    The 30% drop in price isn't just for american trucks, it is affecting any company. No one can sell them for anywhere near sticker. My salsman told me I dumped my Colorado Crewcab 4x4 just in time as they can't even take them to auction anymore as no one will even bid on a truck/suv. I love my HHR and it does almost anything the Colorado did. Over the 4 years i owned it I hauled a 1/2 yard of dirt in it once, anything else it carried I can get in the HHR plus I get 24.5 in town and at 60 without air I got 36.5 by babying it.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    That is my point. They have so much mark up in these things that they can still sell cars/trucks and take $12 hits on them and still turn a profit! I know the country does not want gas guzzlers and that is why the price dropped. My point is they were WAY over priced in the first place. I am ok with them making a buck, and if someone will pay it (as I did) then gret for them. But they need to start making the same quality as the others and they woudl sell more. I miss the S-10! :(
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    No the problem is they have to have this kind of markup as most companies sell the little cars at a loss. This used to be to get the young buyer in say a Ford and then they get brand loyality and continue buying Fords through out their lives. This still holds true to a point but the big problem now is there is so many different kinds of vehicles on the market that no manufacturer will ever get where GM used to be, with 56% of the market. So they have laid off, early outs, retirements etc. Of course that costs money. You can't (I hope you can't) expect these companies to not give a person a pension after he/she has spent a life time working for them. The foregn companies don't have that problem yet but Toyota is getting close with their first American factory and how are they handling it? They are harassing the older workers till they get fired or can't take it anymore and quit. At least the American Car Companies are doing the right thing. Even with all the extra overhead the American trucks aren't anymore money than the foreign trucks and the money stays here instead of the lions share going back to Japan to pay for their schools, highways, buildings, nice homes that we are slowly losing.
  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    I appreciate your view. It was one I had as well. Until I noticed that the forien cars are made ALOT better, shipped here and then sold for the same tag as the American ones. Now I know the cost of labor is lower there but come on! Also, we import how much as apposed to how much do we export? How many "American" car companies are actually American owned in whole? How much of your Ford/Chevy do you think is actually made in America? Seriously??? Assembled yes... parts made? Nope!
    Now back to the Colorado and bad brakes... now the E Brake is seizing!!! This month the truck is 2 years old! Oh, and of course the back brakes have 20% pad left! AGAIN! per shop, no the pads are not wearing out becuase of the E Brake issue. This is a new issue. :mad:
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    First off Toyota's Tundra was the first to start the big rebates going back to last year with their slow selling truck. It is not meeting expectations in quality or sales. How recalls did it have in its first year. Lets see I seem to recall the crankshaft issue, tailgate welds, and something else that is escaping me. It's another light duty Toyota truck with a cartoonish interior and a weak frame design.

    To say that American brand companies quality is not comparable leaves me to believe that you don't follow automotive news very much. They have been comparable for 10-years or more now. No brand has a full line of best in class cars. GM has several model lines with what's considered best in class but like other auto makers there are some excellent cars and there are some average cars across the board. No one makes a bad car anymore and there hasn't been one for years from any company that I know of.

    Toyota's domestic content here in the U.S. is only about 50% overall, while GM as a whole is over 70%. Because of Toyota's outsourcing of parts from Japan, China, etc., that forced the domestic automakers to outsource to to stay in business. In doing this thousands of small companies who produce parts, mostly in Detroit, were forced out of business with tens of thousands of people losing jobs.

    Toyota is known for picking states with no unions and for hiring part-time workers to avoid paying benefits. Without unions and pensions to worry about they have a huge bottom line and as mentioned their money is invested back in Japan institutions not here other than building assembly plants and reaping the benefits of a weak dollar when converting the yen. It's not a good picture with what these Japanese companies are doing. Sure they forced the American companies to build their cars/truck with better fit and finish, but they also forced them to abandon local resources to stay in business.

    I don't know of a car/truck from any brand that can't go 200,000 miles if maintained. This is another false perception. Only a small percentage of people keep a car for 100,000 miles anyways. Who wants a 200,000 mile car/truck? People still change vehicles every 3-5 years on average. I am happy with my rusted but reliable 1992 S10.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Wow that is the best post I have seen in a very long time. Well thought out and well said. Good job.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    This is Colorado/Canyon Brake Questions, guys. Plenty of other discussions to discuss Ford, Toyota, and sales.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • rukus2rukus2 Posts: 13
    Poncho, Great post.

    Also, yes this started as a brake issue. Poncho, you own a 1992 S-10. As I stated I loved the truck and has made me buy a Chevy truck every 2-3 years since my first truck. This Colorado has the worst fit and finish of all of them. The lack of help from GM has pushed me over the limit. I end up with about 200,000 miles by the end of my 3rd year with the truck. My 94, 97, 99, 03 trucks all made it well past 100,000 before I had the issues I have with this truck. These started around 38K. The brakes being the biggest issue.

    As for Toyota recalls... As you mention, first model year. Enough said I think.

    I feel (opinion) that the American trucks have gone down hill in light of trying to make more luxury features instead of a true truck. The American makers always had the markets locked as far as trucks go. Not so much now.
    That being said, I think the Silverado is still the best on the market. I just wish the mid size trucks got the same attention they used to or GM stood behind the issues

    So... back to the question... Is there a better set up front and rear? Is there a more heavy duty pad for the rear? Should I use slotted/drilled rotors? Do I change out calipers? What pads are you using up front?

    Recap of my issue:
    Light pedal, rear brakes last about 20K, front fad and I do not get much stopping power. (just added) E Brake issues. Yet to figure out isuue. Something with the self adjuster.

  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I wonder what I did wrong. I had over 33000 miles on my CrewCab 4x4 when I sold it and over 10000 miles of towing it behind my motorhome. It also had its own braking system so I really had over 44000 miles on it. A number of times I could feel it engage more than what I pushed on my motorhome brakes so it was slightly draging down the motorhome. Motorhome is 38 feet long and weighs close to 21000 lbs. I must have gotten some bad brakes to last that long. :shades:
  • we have a 2008 gmc canyon crew cab with the offroad suspension, but not the 4x4 gearing the brakes are noisy and squel almost every time my wife brakes , the truck has only 18k and we are not hard on the brakes. the dealer did look at them and put on something called quiet stop or something like that but they still squel.Anyone else have this problem?
  • Consider yourself lucky. My squeal started at 6000kms and I have had it in twice.

    my 08 crew is 4x4 and my calipers had the bushings beat out of them at 8000k's....because they wouldn't fix the rotors that pulsed since the day I drove it off the lot. They finally put it on a brake lathe....changed my pins, bushing and calipsers....put the stop squeal on again....all is well with everything else...except the squeel is at 11000ks...

    The rear brake grab is known and its actually on of the TSB's for the Canyon
  • Could any one please advise if the front brake rotors are pressed on to the bearings on the canyons.I am coming due for a brake job and I hear horror stories of intensive and costly brake jobs on the Canyons.I would attempt to change the rotors but to use a hydraulic press is another bowl of wax.Please Comment.Thanks
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Long time coming but here's an answer anyway...

    Rotors rust. They rust if you don't use your truck for a week. They are make of cheap [non-permissible content removed] steel and they rust. I used to make them in a drop-steel foundry.

    If you are driving and the rotors have rust on the face, your brakes are not applying enough pressure to the rotors.

    Under normal conditions, one or two uses of the brakes will completely clean the face of the rotor (unless you left it at the beach for a year).

    Daily use rotors are cleaned by use and the build up of crap goes into the brake dust.

    Consider checking your braking system if you have rust on your rotors during normal usage.
  • This might be a little late for your situation, however I'll try to offer some help...I recently purchased a "Haynes Repair Manual" for Colorado/Canyons. There are several pictures of the brake system in the book.

    The one picture shows a 2WD front end, and even though the text mentions rotor removal in the same breath as hub removal, the picture shows a couple of "Tinnerman nuts" holding the rotors in place. I would then assume that if you remove the nuts, the rotors should come off.

    I have a 4WD Canyon, and although I'm not positive how the rotors are held on, there are what appear to be bolts located betwen each lug stud. I would be tempted to conclude that these bolts hold the rotors in place. Since my rotors are in good shape, however, I'm not tempted at this point to see if these are indeed rotor retaining bolts.
  • Good points!

    I currently have 26,000 miles on my '05 Canyon 4x4. This vehicle is primarily used as my "winter driver" so if anybody should have problems, I should. Road salt does "simply wonderful things" to a vehicle, and my Canyon see plenty of it!

    I took the front pads out this past fall, and yes, the tips of the pad's backing plates had corroded, and were not sliding freely in the calipers. I simply took a file, and smoothed down the tabs, ensuring that they moved freely in the calipers. I also removed the "slider pins", and cleaned and re-greased them.

    In the rear, every year I remove the drums, spray the backing plates and springs with Simple Green, to remove any accumulated road salt, rinse everything, and then blow out the water with a leaf blower. Re-install the drums, and I'm good for another year.

    I don't "baby" this truck, but I don't beat on it either. As I said, I have 26,000 miles on this truck right now, and the shoes/pads look like they'll go another 30-40,000 miles without any problem.
  • I have an 05 with 80K miles. My parking brake will not release unless I go under the truck and do it manually. Has anyone had this problem before? And, how might I go about fixing it? I have replace the brakes but no luck.

  • Peel back the rubber boots on the end of the cables, and spray some lubricant in the ends of the e-brake cables. Then work the cables in and out to work in the lube. Also, spray the foot mechanism in the cab.

    If that doesn't work, pull the drums back off and make sure the e-brake linkage is also able to move freely, without any binding.
  • tgiltgil Posts: 1
    Any resolution on your brake problems w/ the Canyon? I'm having same issues on the Colorado I have owned since '06 and tired of ALL OF IT!
Sign In or Register to comment.