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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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Comments

  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    I now know that the leak is caused by a suspicious "pin prick" hole in the pressurized line about 2" from the lower fitting (steering knuckle side). When the front wheels are steered, a tiny geyser appears.

    Recall that this line is covered by a slit, corrugated plastic sheath for protection. What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes?

    I think I know the answer but thought I'd put the question out there ...
    :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    "What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes? "

    Chances are low... But there is no such thing as a perfect machine. Unless you have good reason to consider anything else, you have to assume it is simply a natural failure.
  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    BPeebles is probably right - I'm willing to accept that the leak in the pressurized p/s line is a "normal" failure. I've also heard other anecdotal experience of the same kind: this line does develop leaks. The good news is that AutoZone had a new hose ("Duralast" brand) - lifetime warranty - for $17.99. I'll replace the line today.

    Now let's turn to the Check Engine message I mentioned. I pulled the code and it's P0132 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage). Sensor 1 & 2 on Bank 1 read "1000V @0% S.T. fuel trim". This strikes me as a possible short.

    Again I refer back to posts 227 & 228 on this forum, which point to the possibility that the p/s line leak (a mini geyser at times) may have put fluid on the O2 sensors (which I suspect are in that region of the engine area).

    I had only one instance of a real sloppy power failure in the last 2 weeks and it seemed to have "recovered". If this theory is valid, I wonder if it's fair to assume the the fluid wetted O2 sensors will "dry out" and eventually go back to normal.

    :(
  • goose1956goose1956 Posts: 1
    Have a 2000 dakota, V-6, 315000 miles, overheating, checked coolant, flushed, recently change water pump, head gaskets do not appear leaking by checking rear exhaust. I was told check timing, could this be it, any other suggestions beside a different pickup.
  • Hello,

    I have a question regarding my 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8, with 117,000 miles. A couple of months ago, I noticed while having my cruise control set at 60 mph and my rpm setting at 2, that the engine would "surge" just above 2 after going over a slight "rise" in the road (not during) and then go back to 2 on the rpm display. After slowing down and re-activating the cruise control at around 50-55 mph, I would notice as the stick arrived at 60 mph, the engine would give a quick surge slightly above 2 and go back to 2. I added STP Fuel Injector cleaner on three occasions, and it seemed to help temporarily, but it is back and occurs more frequently, even when not going over any rise in the road.

    Additionally, about a month ago I noticed that when I would start my truck up in the morning, it would surge while idle then come back down, then surge again, and so on.

    Could these two issues be related and what should I be looking at? I was looking online a little, and one suggestion was made regarding the idle surge as it relates to the IAC valve. Any help would be much appreciated!
  • bone5bone5 Posts: 5
    2000 dodge dakota quad cab 4.7 engine roars when started up and roars for a couple of miles down the road. It sounds normal after about 2 miles down the road. It seems worse in the winter. What could be the cause of this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Totally normal.... You are hearing the roar of the thermostatic engine-fan. The thermostatic fan takes awhile to disenguage. As I recall, it is the very worst right around 40F.

    You can reduce the time it takes to disenguage by gently reving the engine for 30 seconds or so before putting into gear and driving....but why waste the gasoline?

    Technical details: Silicone fluid withn the thermostatic-coupling is 'stiff' and takes awhile to get thrown to the outer-edges by centripital force.

    BTW: If you had use the "search" feature, you would have found several discussions about this since the 4.7L engine was put into the Dak in 2000. Many people mistakenly think that their automatic-xmission is "slipping" when cold.... as least you did not make that assumption.
  • seleneselene Posts: 10
    I have a 1993 dodge dakota with a 3.9 liter v-6. The check engine light is
    on. I turn the key 4 times to get the trouble codes. The codes I have gotten
    are 22, 23, and 45. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor, the throttle
    position sensor, the intake ambient air temperature sensor, the Oxygen
    sensor, the pcv valve , and the air intake filter. The engine is hard to
    start. After the engine is hot and I kill the engine, trying to restart is
    hit and miss. Sometimes it will start right up and other times it won't.
    Then it will act as if it is flooded. It won't idle. I rev the engine a
    little and the rpm's will finally kick up to around 1500. Then the engine
    will run smooth. The codes I get now are 45 and 22. I can't understand what
    is going on. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Also, is the heater/AC blower resistor located in the engine compartment on the R/H firewall on a '93 Dakota? Thanks.
  • scheelerscheeler Posts: 1
    I have the same pickup, the same problem started a few weeks ago for me. I have had it into the shop twice now and they can't find anything wrong with it, seems to cure itself each time I've brought it in. My next call will be the dealer I bought it from even though I have to drive 75 miles, hopefully they will recognize the problem, they are a Dodge dealer. From reading other info online I might try replacing the throttle body sensor before running to the dealer. Good luck!
  • merton1merton1 Posts: 1
    will a 96 dakota engine go in a 87 dakota? if so how tough would it be ? any help much appreciated
  • thepj1thepj1 Posts: 2
    I read through these boards before posting, but i didnt find an answer to my problem, I have a 97 dakota sport, 3.9 auto, 2wheel drive. A few weeks ago it started dropping RPMs and losing power while driving, warm or cold it didnt matter. Would also happen stopped at a light as well. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and when that didnt do it i replaced the map sensor. Worked great for 3 days, then it seemed like once the engine was heated up it was fine, but that only lasted for like 2 days. Now its just random, i could drive to work and home, then go out later and it could die, the rpms just drop, theres a low backfire sound, more like a putt, then a backfire. sometimes it stays running, sometimes not. Ive looked for bad ground connections. Visually checked for any kind of vacuum leak. The O2 sensors were replaced 2 years ago. It has a exhaust leak somewhere near the engine but i didnt think it was major enough to cause anything like this. Any help on tracking down whats doing it would be great. thanks
  • evanscnevanscn Posts: 1
    1996 Dakota SLT, 5.2l V8, automatic, 2WD. Engine has been sluggish the last few months, gas mileage down, auto trans wants to quickly shift through gears up to 4th and lock converter.
    No MIL light. Scanned with 2 different scan tools and found only pending misfire DTCs. However, several of the sensor outputs as read through the PCM look strange. Have factory service manual and ran diagnostics on MAP sensor, TPS, ... The sensor output voltages look correct (MAP output Vdc vs manifold pressure). Example,engine OFF, manifold pressure 29.8 in. Hg, MAP output voltage 4.5 Vdc (OK), but PCM says manifold pressure is 9.0 in. Hg (via scan tool). Same problem w/ engine idleing (true pressure 11 in. Hg, PCM says 2 in. Hg). TPS also way off (PCM says 73% open when WOT). Long term fuel trim (7%) indicates some lean mix. Reset PCM by disconnecting power for 15 min. No improvement in MAP or TPS reading. Trans not shifting up as fast - better.
    Checked sensor voltages at sensors and at plugs into PCM. No differences. Also checked all splices in sensor lines (5Vdc, sensor output, sensor gnd), all OK.
    Question: It sounds like the part of the PCM that reads the sensor voltages (analog-to-digital converter circuit) isn't working right. Anyone else have these kinds of symptoms? Can PCM partially degrade like this? Thanks
  • I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota 4x4 V8. 103,500 miles. Low miles for such an aged vehicle.

    Recently, the engine has been sputtering at 2000 RPMs and losing power, and when I punch the accelerator to maintain power I get an occasional POP. From time to time, the Check Engine light comes on at the same time that the loss of power is experienced. As I said when I lose power the engine does tend to sputter. Eventually the engine does recover for a time.

    At low idle, the Oil Pressure gauge drops to low left and the Oil Pressure light comes on. Dipstick shows that I am burning oil, however I check and maintain the oil level religiously and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

    I've noticed that Dodge trucks seem to have this low oil pressure problem. However, the loss of power seems to be something much more sinister.

    Anyone have some insight before I drop 3 grand at the dealer?
  • recently replaced the TPS as I was having surge problems when cruise control or sometimes just throttle engaged manually around 45-50 miles per hour. Would surge with rpms and then return to normal. After replacing TPS got engine trouble codes P0122 and P0123 stating has TP sensor circuit is low input and high input. I am just getting codes from my on board trouble code not using specialized scan tool. Two questions one can the TPS be put in wrong? Does the PCM have to be reset by using the specialized scan tool and will this correct the trouble codes. I did take the truck out for spin and notice My cruise control does not work now? Any suggestions? thanks Header1974
  • Does anyone know once you replace the TPS Throttle Positioning Sensor how do you reset PCM and eliminate the trouble codes. After changing the TPS I still get P1022 naP1023 codes with onboard computer? Does it have to be reset by dealer to know if new TPS is working? Will this effect the cruise control? thanks for any help you can provide Header1974
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    "reset"ing will not stop active codes from happening.

    Once you have corrected the problem with the TPS... the codes should "reset" themselves because the problem is no longer happening.

    You *could* disconect the battery for 15-20 minutes to perform a total system "reset"... but your onboard computer would have to relearn all of your driving-habits under various situations/conditions.... this could take weeks. (And again.... would most likely NOT correct the TPS problem)

    I beleive the above answers your question(s)... but you should really be asking "Why am I getting these TPS codes"... alas - you did not ask that question.
  • It was the TPS when I used a voltage meter found flat spot in old TPS probably causing issues with the rpms going up suddenly in spurts when speed was between 45-50 mph. I had taken truck to transmission place that could not detect any increase in rpms so was intermetent issue. Wanted to eliminate what appeared to be transmission issue. Thats why I tried the TPS suggestion from one of the other members. It worked I disconnected battery to clear codes and everything is running great. Not sure what you meant about computer relearning driving habits under various situations/conditions. I never did orginally have any codes they appeared after I replaced TPS and maybe installed wrong first time. Reinstalled and codes still appeared but once disconnected battery and reconnected works awesome. thanks Header1974
  • Does anyone know anything about best shocks to use on Dodge Dakoyta Quad Cab 4.7L 2001. I know that it does not have springs so wanted good shock for good stability and ride. I was thinking about Blistern? Maybe Monroe Gas shocks?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> " Not sure what you meant about computer relearning driving habits under various situations/conditions." Here is the answer (This comes right from the Factory Service Manual)

    The dodge ECU starts with default settings of Ignition-timing, Injection-pulsewidth, idle-control, xmission-shifting....etc.

    As you drive, it "learns" how fast you tend to accellerate and other habits. The ECU changes shift-points and other things based on your habits and saves into memory a 'fudge-factor' so it remembers the settings. These 'fudge-factors' are saved based on ambient temparture. In this way, your driving habits are 'mapped' into the memorry of the ECU based on the outside temparture.

    Over the course of weeks, your Dodge will 'learn' how you drive and program itself based on your driving-habits.

    A Dodge which SHARES drivers with vastly different driving-habits is constanly trying to learn and may never seem to run right.

    Disconnecting the battery erases all the saved 'fudge-factors' and it must relearn everythng.

    I hope this answers your question.
  • fbjr55fbjr55 Posts: 2
    My 4.7 L 4X4 extended cab Dakota has been running rough for about 7 months. It idles rough and sometimes when you accellorate from idle the engine misses until it catches after a second or two. Most of the time it runs fine at speed, however occasionally it seems to get in a mode where it seems like it not firing on all cylinders. Usually when this happens if you stop the engine and restart it, the engine runs smooth again. I have taken it to the shop twice for this issue. Each time the camshaft sensor and crank sensor was replaced which improved but did not fix the issue. The last shop who worked on it told me to take it to a dealer so the wiring and computer can be checked. They said it had to be a loose wire or a computer issue. He said the dealer has equipment to tell if a wire has a bad connector ( some kind of wiring harness diagnostic tool which only the dealer has). I am kind of gun shy because I have put a lot of money into this allready without it being fixed. It has also blown the ASD fuse in the power distribution panel (3 times). I have allready sank more money than I can afford into this. My questions are
    1 Have you heard of this combination of issues before and if so do you have any idea what maybe causing it?
    2.If I take it to a dealer, do they actually have some kind of tool that will diagnose the wiring and tell which wire is the issue.

    I love my truck but I have never had any issues like this with any vehicle before.
    Thanks for any help and advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Dont you wish that mechanics only get paid IF THEY FIX IT?

    BTW, if you have had the very same sensors replaced several times... I hope you realize that you do not have to pay for any more than the 1st one. All Dealer parts are waranteed and if they have to be replaced again, the original part must have been bad so it is 'covered'.

    Personally, I cleaned the IAC . (Idle Air Controller) once a year when I had the 4.7L semi-hemi engine. This always improved idle smoothness.

    Dont forget that your 4.7L has COP (Coil On Plug) ignition. The coils are swappable if you need to isolate a bad one.
  • hi i have a 1993 dakota v6 magnum when i first crank it the oil pressure is great! after about 20 miles it looses oil pressure and the engine starts knocking any i dea what this could be? was told it may be oil pump. if so how do i change it and are there any online places that i can see a free repair manual thanks!!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Bummer. Hope you haven't hurt your engine.

    Not aware of any free on-line manuals. The manuals, either those from the manufacturer or from a third party are copyrighted. Posting them would probably be a violation of copyright law. There are some on-line sites where you can subscribe to manuals for an annual fee, I think.
  • can anyone walk me through the process of changing the oil pump?? thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Before you replace the oil pump, have you tried a good cleaning?

    My daughters 1st car tended to 'rattle' when the engine got hot. This was because the hydrolic-lifters were so cruddy that they would not hold pressure.

    I ran some "STP oil treatment" in it.... that INSTANTLY fixed the oil-pressure. (because it is a viscosity-improver.)

    The next time I changed the oil, I expected the rattling to come back.... to my amazement, the "STP oil treatment" other feature (detergents) had cleaned out the lifters and that car never-again had that problem.

    Also, you may wish to run a slightly-thicker oil... this is a MUCH less expensive way to resolve such a problem.
  • fbjr55fbjr55 Posts: 2
    Thanks, however I am being told that there is a bad connection or computer. Currently I have trouble codes 352 351 357 and 1391. 1391 is loss of signal from crank or cam shaft sensor. Both of these have been replaced. In addition the truck has been blowing the fuse for the ASD relay. My funds have allready been exhausted in trying to fix this. My thought is if it is a wiring issue, then the codes and the blowing fuses should help isolate which wires to check first. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me.

    Also something I found out that I was unaware of. If you turn the ignition on and off three times, your trouble codes will show on your odometer. Cool. Just wonder why I have not seen it in any of the manuals.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Cool. Just wonder why I have not seen it in any of the manuals

    Because they want you to bring the truck into the shop for a service visit and be able to bill you for it.
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