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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I concour with dustyk!

    The 4.7L semi-hemi actually WON AWARDS when it was first introduced. It is overbuilt even for a truck engine. (Nodular iron bedplate usually found on hi-tech racing engines!!)

    Everywhere one looks at the 4.7L, there are surprises in the design. From the close factory toleraces to the extra-high piston-ring pressures. The hollow camshafts which deliver oil directly where it is needed. This engine is designed for the long-haul.

    Of course, some folks ignore the recommended oil specs which are there for a reason.

    BTW: I changed the oil in my 2000 4.7 thisafternoon! (I am still running synthetic oil due to the emulsion issue.)
  • Hi,
    This is cory. I have a dodge full size truck doing the same thing. Just wondering if you figured out what was wrong with your dakota?
  • bryanajbryanaj Posts: 2
    just switched out my high mile engine with same yr.1991 engine 3.9L,the motor ran excellent prior to installing, now engine expands oil filter and it leaks around the seal on the oil filter. Is there an oil pump regulator in the engine? :mad: HELP!!!!
  • bryanajbryanaj Posts: 2
    I haven't figured it out yet, and it's driving me crazy! The engine was running fine when we pulled it out of the old truck. I'd be good to go if I could fix this problem!
  • syn5syn5 Posts: 1
    My 99 Dakota does the same thing. My mechanic found that it is the IAC Motor. I decided not to replace as it only acts up on cold mornings and resets itself with a second start.
  • fireman725fireman725 Posts: 1
    I am rebuilding the engine of my 2001 3.9 liter dodge dakota. I have to replace 3 pistons and connecting rods, this will make me have 3 old pistons and 3 new pistons. Will this matter in the performance of the engine when we I start running it again? I'd rather not spend the money to buy all 6 new ones but would it be worth spending the extra money replacing all of them or no? :sick:
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    To start out I have a 1994 dodge dakota V8 5.2 liter automatic. ABout a month ago I started to loose power and it would die on me. So I replace the EGR Valve as suggested by people on forum.

    But today while driving, the truck sounded as if it was not in gear and then would not accelerate well no matter how much I pushed down on the gas. Then it sounded as if there was air coming out of a hose. When I pulled over and took a look it smelled like melting plastic. The plastic part of the EGR valve was melted. So I replaced the EGR valve again.

    And after a few blocks it sounded as if the valve blew again. ANd sure enough the valve looks as if the very center of the plastic piece is melted or blew straight down the center of it.

    Any help or suggestion of what I can do would be really great.
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    This might be a bit late but have you checked the EGR valve? It is not the cheapest part (about $100) but is very easy to replace. Let us know what you figure out.
  • jyrojyro Posts: 4

    I would love to speak to you regarding your 2001 Dakota with engine failure. If you can click on my username and find an email address, shoot me a quick email. I'll reply back to you.

    If you can't find an email, reply to this thread and let me know that. And I'll put my email address on here. Thanks.

    - Jason :)
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    SO after dealing with 2 dodge dealers and the local shop found out that the catalatic converter was the problem. It had broken in ternal part that where causing the exaust to be to hot and that was what melted the Egr valve.

    SO got that replaced and then put in the 3rd EGR valve and it runs like it should again. Wow forgot what a beast it is. Thank you to our local Shucks who replaced not 1 but 2 melted EGR valves under warranty for us. There customer service is awesome. ANd I have to drive by 4 other parts stores to get to them but it is worth it.
  • cindy215cindy215 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab the VIN number pulls up a 4.7 engine but the sticker under the hood says a 5.2 how do i know which engine i have?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    The 2 engines are VERY different.

    Here is a write-up on the 4.7L semi-hemi. (with photos)

    Perhaps this will help you identify your engine.

    HINT: The 4.7L does not have any sparkplug wires while the 5.2 does.
  • i have a 95 dakota with a 3.9 v6. it has a spun rod bearing. i found a 3.9 at a wrecking yard out of a 98 dakota. will the 98 go in my truck and everything hook up, or is there things i have to change to make it work. or will it not work at all? please help asap before i go buy the 98 motor. thanks, scott
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    I'm pretty sure that after 2000 the 318 (5.2) was no longer available.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    You should have no problems swapping in '98 to replace a '95, they're both Magnum versions. A '92 might be better. They used a larger exhaust manifold and were rated slightly higher in horsepower.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Dusty is correct. The 5.2L (318ci) was replaced with the 4.7L semi-hemi in the 2000 model year. I do not think it is possible for your 2001 to have a 5.2L from the factory.

    Trivia: The 4.7L was first available in the Jeep Grand Cherokee in 1999. Starting in 2000, it was also available in the Dodge Dakota. (Replacing the 1960s-era 318ci)
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Posts: 28
    heres the senerio i was on cruise control at 55 mpg suddenly dakota jumps off cruise i hear a little pop from the engine gets knocked down to 30 mpg pummping gas can hear the motor misfire but still losing power have to pump the gas to keep going til i get home shes a 94 model i had already put new wires and plugs but rechecked them anyway could it possibly be a fuel pump or rotor these are suggestions from my step son i know i need to replace the sensor above the transmission but hadnt yet and i had replaced the sensor on the rear im afraid to drive her cuz its hot and i dont want to leave her on the road any suggestions would be appreaciated
  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    I have a 02 quad cab 4x4 with a 4.7 and the idle from start goes about 2000 rpm and then goes down and right back up again. if i leave it just sit there it will calm down until i put the air on then it does the same thing, any help???? at wits end here. sitting at stoplights it will idle up as well thus having to press brake more
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Clean the IAC (Idle Air Controller)
  • jprice3jprice3 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 6 cyl with 170k miles. The engine is not using any oil anf all cylinders are burning clean. There is, however, some constant lifter noise. The alarming issue is that the oil pressure warning light comes on at idle (600 rpm)
    shortly followed by the gauge. Both go out at 1100 rpm. Suggestions?
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