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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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Comments

  • dwalker4dwalker4 Posts: 1
    ive got a 2003 dodge dakota with a small v6. its the smallest one. it seems like a 4 cylinder. but i was wondering wat is the biggest engine i could probably get to give high speed and torque.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Judging from your description, the computer has fallen into "limp mode" which will purposfully limit maximum RPM to "protect" critical engine components.
  • maybe to late, but sounds like pluged up exhaust! (CAT. convertor)
    so exhaust is forced to egr
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    the code 420 means you need a new catalyst and not related to the airbag light or the no start problem... If your engine is not running right it will damage the CAT.
  • try an oem pcv valve
  • willieboy62willieboy62 Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    two things to check the spark from the igni. coil the way I do this is take the coil wire off the dist. cap and put a screwdriver that will fit in that end leaving the other end on the coil hold the screwdriver about half an inch away from engine ground and have someone crank the engine. You should get a big blue looking spark. If weak or yellowish maybe orange you have a weak coil.
    If ok next thing to try little hard to check is to take the exhaust loose before the catalytic converter. If you do that and now the engine does not bog your exhaust is plugging up somewhere maybe bad catalytic converter.
  • Ok guys I have one here that has me pulling my hair out. I have a 2002 Dakota quad with the 4.7. When I turn the switch key from off to on (not start) the starter kicks in and the truck will start and the starter stays engaged. It does it most of the time but not all of the time. I have replaced the Starter, ignition switch, and the engine start relay. Anyone have any ideas? The truck has been sitting for a year and a half but I think the reason it has been sitting is the start issue.
  • I have a 200 Dodge Dakota Sport w/3.9. 42,000 miles. Runs great, but when it's cold out , below 30 degrees and the engine temp is cold she knocks and clatters at idol. When the engine worms to operating temp, it lessens a little, when traveling 50-55 you can hear the noise over the radio. When it's between 40 degrees out and the engine is at operating temp the noise almost goes away. Very little to no noise when traveling and at idol. Any ideas.
  • Just replaced the battery and after sitting for 2 days battery was 11.5v. charged it and started, but ran rough. Dissconnected cables and reset computer and ran fine.
  • nopower4nopower4 Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Dakota with a 2.5 liter engine that has about one third the power that it should. It has 115,000 miles and drives and sounds ok just no power. I changed the plug wires. Could my catalytic converter be plugged, or is the timing off. I have not checked the compression yet. It does not blow any smoke. If anyone has any ideas I could use the help. Thanks
  • dallasedallase Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 dakota w/ 3.9 engine is there more than one camshaft position sensor on this truck other than the one in the distributer , I was told by a mechanic that there was one on the back of the engine on the camshaft itself , and he said this was the one that needed replacing. the truck would not start after i shut it off today
  • ram032ram032 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Dakota,the engine devolped a knock and is undrivable.My quetsion is how long is the Drive Train covered under warrenty,it only has 35000 miles on it.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    On my 2005, the drive train warranty was 7 years/70,000 miles.
  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 dakota 4.7 , ever since i bought it it takes at least two tomes turning the key before it starts, never on the first time, and when it gets warmer or i use the air it takes three to four times, just wondering if anyone had an answer
  • dallasedallase Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 dakota 3.9 when i first start the truck the engine is fairly quiet , but after it warms up it starts clattering , not a deep knock just a clatter it quietens down a bit w/ acceleration but never goes completely away.. I think i have isolateded it to the rear of engine around the distributer area does anyone have any idea what this could be? oil pressure is great , temp. good , charging good Just stumped!!!
  • 9d9dak9d9dak Posts: 3
    pghpollock, I've experienced the same exact problem as you have described. I replaced the IAC, TPS and cleaned the TB. Now it runs great! Curious to know if you found the problem for your Dakota.
  • 9d9dak9d9dak Posts: 3
    edited July 2011
    Follow up to my previous reply. It ran great for a short time. I found the real cause of my problem. The up stream O2 sensor causes this problem without throwing a check engine light (CEL)or code. The PCM on this model often does not throw a CEL or code when the O2 sensor is failing until it completely fails. Once it fails and the CEL comes on the hesitation during acceleration problem stops. Replace the sensor with a factory part. You may want to look up "open loop/closed loop 99 Dodge Dakota." I hope this helps anyone who still owns this truck. - 2ndadam7
  • seventy7seventy7 Posts: 11
    (2000 Dakota, 4.7 Liter, 5-speed, 4x4)

    Broke off the plastic crankshaft position sensor while trying to remove it (after getting a P0320 error code). Dakota shop manual says to pry it out using 2 screwdrivers - good luck with that! It was stuck on so hard that it wouldn't even move with vise grips and a LOT of force. It was almost as if it was welded in there. I guess that's what 11 years of heat will do. I've been accessing it from below (not from inside the wheel-well), and it doesn't allow for a lot of manipulation. Finally got it to rotate (after breaking off the mounting tang) but it still would not move outwards. Then broke the smaller end off. I then cut a notch into the side of what was left to get a pry bar on it, and force would still not get it moving away from the engine block. Then it broke again. Now I have about 1/2" left of plastic sticking out of the block that will only rotate, but not come out. I was thinking of tapping a bolt into it, and maybe pulling it out with a slide hammer. Another option would be to drill out the center enough so I could get vise grips onto it and pulling it straight out from inside the wheel well. It almost seems that the end inside the block has mushroomed into the crankcase and is too large to fit back through the hole. I don't want to have to punch it through and fish it out of the oil pan, as it is a 4x4 and the axle would have to be removed to get at the pan. Any suggestions as to how to proceed (without getting a mechanic involved)? Anyone have a similar experience?
  • Hi

    Now, you 05 owners stay out of this... We all know where the pcv valve is on 05's, behind the oil filler... Not so on 06's (the book is wrong and only applies to 05s). I have a hose that goes out of the rear drivers side and seems to go into the back of the intake, where I can not see it or reach it.

    Now most of you mechanics will probably say, "you pcv valve is right there where the hose comes off the vavle cover...." No, it is not. only a right angle hose connector (hollow, no vavle inside, nor the means to have one there) which connects to a rigid plastic vacuum tube, that goes behind the intake close to the firewall, where no one can reach it.... Or see it.

    Now, am I right in thinking it's mounted back there? and if so, how do I safely get it off?

    I would appreciate some advice from someone that has actually changed one of these.
  • 03 Dakota quad cab 4x4 4.7 magnum. Recently mil came on and truck died. Set then restarted drove home. Codes came up as p0339 p0340 and p0344 cam and crank sensor error. I reset the codes drove it around faulted again. Only got p0344 crank sensor. Replaced sensor drove beautiful for 10 mins no miss no shudder then you guessed it code back. Old sensor had resistance at b and c showing it was bad new sensor same. Something is causing the sensor to fail rapidly. I know this is lengthy but wanted as much info in as possible. Wonderring if since had bad cam sensor to start also if it can cause issue or hoping not pcm is causing to fail. Any suggestions much apreciated.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Both the crank and cam sensors are Hall effect solid state. They operate
    between 0 and 5 volts max. While they can go squirrely and cause weird
    symptoms, generally they are reliable.
    Crank sensor provides timing info to the PCM for the injector system.
    Cam sensor provides timing info to the PCM for ignition.

    Did you measure the sensors before you changed them?
  • did you ever check the timing out.it sounds like it may be out.
  • have you tried to put a shim between starter and engine because some GM truck are like that. the shim might stop it cause they might be to close
  • check your cat first if its good i would look towards the trany maybe it needs a service cause this will cause you to have lack of power
  • mine was the timing was out try that
  • i had the same problem i found out when you change the crank you must change the cam to then take it to a mec.to get it programed
  • did you get your truck reprogramed
  • it could be a relay thats overheating. check you engine relays :blush:
  • Are you replying to me? I'm not the one that changed the cam sensor.
    BTW..who told you that you need to reprogram the PCM after changing
    the cam (or crank) sensor?????
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