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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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  • Thank you, very much for the tip. I'll get my hands dirty. Jaja
  • i have a 02 dodge dakota i was driving one day and it shut off no powe i tryd starting it up a gen and nuthing i replacet the starter and nuthing it acts like its dead i know i need a new batery how ever tryd jumping it n nuthing i beleve its an electricole issue but im not a 100% shure culd it be sumthing in the ignition thank you for the help
  • jedrojedro Posts: 1
    what size are the bolts,studs on a 92 v6 exhaust manifold to engine?i have looked just about everywhere.2 studs have rusted and broke off leaving 1/2 of stud in block.also any tips on removing broken stud from block?
  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    same thing happened to my 02 but what i found out is that the studs that are in the block unscrewed by finger and i had 4 of them broke, i took one of the broken studs to my local part store and they hooked me up with what i needed.
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport, V6, 4X4. When the outside temp falls below 32 degrees I have a problem. Engine starts fine. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving I sometimes cannot go uphill over 15 miles an hour. Downhill is worse, I leave off the gas, the RPM's fluctuate by as much as 1000, it then backfires. I have replaced the cam sensor and the air temp. sensor. If the check engine light comes on, it signifies the cam sensor. HELP!! I'm at my witts end! Do you think it could be the crank sensor or possibly the temp. sensor?
  • 95f15095f150 Posts: 1
    well okay, first of all, my first post. and i need some help here. my dad has a 94 dakota 318 4x4. pretty nice pickup when he bought it. well the bad part is he bought it for me to drive. and as i am 16 years old livin in north dakota, it went through more mud holes than anything pickup i have seen. it has been raced, and the engine has gone to hell and back. and i gotta say, that thing just doesnt want to be stuck. i think it got stuck 6 times in a little over a year, which is a lot better then my ford. anyways, he also has an 85 dodge ram charger, 318 4x4 that doesnt have insurance anymore, so it basically sits in the driveway. well we have swapped the engine in my ford twice, as i have blown in up twice (water in the cylinders both times). the second time we took it out we just replaced cylinders. and now he wants to take the cylinders and connecting rods, possibly more engine parts out of the ram charger engine and put them in the dakota. but as the ram charger is carburated and the dakota is fuel injected he doesnt know if they will swap. i mean he basically wants to use as much of the carburated engine as he can, as that thing just wont ever die. so if you could it would be nice if someone could tell me if the pistons, possibly the heads, oil pump, and other engine parts would swap into a dakota engine. thank you and sorry for being so long winded. its kind of my downfall to forums.
  • rumzrumz Posts: 3
    I have a 99 dakota sport with a 318 4x4 and and when i get to 60-65 and stay there and my rpms are at the little line below 2000 and will jump up to 2000 rpms and sounds like it tries to shift in and out of ODrive and i lost a lot of power i herd it maybe my cat but i dont know i may have it cut off what do you think please help
  • jyrojyro Posts: 4
    "what do you think please help"

    I think you should have paid more attention in your english / grammar classes. Sounds to me like your torque convertor is acting up. But I'm not an expert on slushboxes (or anything really), I only drive manual transmissions. But that is my initial impression. A cat problem would more than likely result in not being able to build speed / rpm, or slowing down. Basically a cat problem usually causes exhaust flow to be hindered, the engine won't breathe as well and will lose power. Normally it will not jump up in rpm due to a cat problem. I think that it has got to be something related to the transmission. Torque converter would be the first thing I would have checked.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    In 1992, Chrysler introduced the Magnum version of the 318 motor and made significant changes that would likely affect your desire to swap parts. I believe the connecting rods and pistons would probably interchange okay, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm not an expert in Mopar parts swapping.

    The block uses a roller lifter camshaft and incorporates a different oiling method for the rockers. In addition, the push rod angled changed that means only a Magnum head would be compatible with a Magnum block, and conversely a non-Magnum block is only compatible with a non-Magnum cylinder head. The Magnum motor incorporates some lighter materials for the piston, and a high-swirl, highly efficient cylinder head.

    Unless you are on a tight budget, I would recommend rebuilding or refreshing the '94 motor. If compression is low and the '94 engine has relatively low miles and had reasonably good maintenance, the problem will probably be in the cylinder head (punky or burnt valves, and/or worn valve guides, hardened valve guide seals, etc.). Unless there's a lot of cylinder wall scoring, Mopar blocks and piston rings seldom wear enough to represent a significant loss of cylinder pressure (compression). I've seen 318 and 360 motors with 150,000 miles on them that after a head refreshing registered the full service spec. compression. Of course, it all depends on how the motor was treated.

    I'd also check the catalytic converter. After a lot of miles, and especially if the motor wasn't running great for a while, the converters start to clog and cause a serious performance problem.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    If the RPM drop is approximately 150 RPM, what you are probably feeling is the torque converter unlocking. This could be caused by a number of things not necessarily connected to the torque converter or the transmission. Possibilities are:

    *Engine out of tune (worn or misfiring spark plugs, bad plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.), dragging brakes, dirty throttlebody, vacuum leak, bad PCV valve.

    *Defective Throttle Position Sensor

    *Throttle Position Valve cable out of adjustment. Throttle linkage sticking or binding. Throttle Position Pivot (at transmission) sticking or binding.

    You say that you lose power when this happens. If this is an erratic thing, I don't think you've got a catalytic converter problem. If, however, you are pressing on the accelerator pedal and it seems to gradually go slower and the transmission is not slipping, you could have a partially clogged catalytic converter that is beginning to overheat, among other things.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rumzrumz Posts: 3
    Thanks, for the info i have had it to 3 different dealers and they said it has nothing wrong with it. But it feels like im pulling something but im not, i cant even spin my tires. If i have my cruise set it does it more but it also does it when i hit a bump in the road. I also have the same spark plug that keeps on fouling out it is the one on the drivers side in the back , I herd from about 10 people it was my cat but i will look into what you said thanks
  • Check the throttle positioning sensor. If that is not that try a crankshaft sensor. I have the same problem with my 92 dakota.
  • My 92 dakota is doing the same thing I had changed the temp. sensor first because it was cheaper than the crank sensor. But that did not work so i am buying the 50 dollar crank sensor and going to put it in.
  • My 1992 dodge Dakota is a v6 3.9 liter and all of a sudden all the oil drained into the pistons and was burnt up. My question is where in the cylinder heads underneath the valve cover where are the oil drain holes in this motor? Can someone help me please?!!
  • factman1factman1 Posts: 4
    I keep posting, but do not see a the posting or response. I've replaced lots of parts. i.e. plugs, plug wires, cam position sensor twice, fuel pump, crank sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump, etc. Tried another computer, lots of dry gas, fixed leaky vacuum hoses, new distributor and pick up inside twice. I'm probably forgetting some items. Truck runs like a dream when it is warm outside and for 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold. After the 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold it bucks violently and misfires for miles upon miles. I'm going to try a PCV valve tomorrow and check those hoses, but realistically, I feel like I'm grasping at straws and spending alot of money on nothing that helps. A 99 van has the same problem and Chrysler wants to throw a new wiring harness in! Yeah likes that's going to solve the problem! I have 155,000 miles on the 5 speed and love it when it is warm outside, but it is useless during the winter. Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going broke and still don't have a reliable vehicle! Thanks!
  • I brohght a used 05 dakota, v8 4.7 2X4 with 180000km, the truck run great so far 82L gas tank can least about 450km, but starting couple month ago, full tank of gas only least about 300km, I live in northern area, winter need warm up the car before toke off on the road, but it still should not be that much of different, any one have idea is some thing go wrong with the truck or just the way to go.
    Thanks.
  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    MAF sensor, Just changed one this weekend and it was doing the same thing. hope it helps..
  • factman1factman1 Posts: 4
    There does not appear to be a MAF on my truck. Unless we are not looking in the right place. Thanks.
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