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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    That sound like the correct idle if you are going by the in dash tachometer. They aren't terrible accurate. The idle is suppose to be around 850 to 900 rpms. If there are no codes it will be a tough one to find.

    Any of these could be the problem.

    AIR FILTER Restricted or clogged air filter.

    FUEL FILTER <>Clogged or dirty fuel filter

    WIRESET Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s).

    SPARK PLUG Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s).

    PCV VALVE Plugged or damaged pcv valve.

    DISTRIBUTOR CAP Loose or cracked distributor cap

    AIR CHARGE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air charge sensor or air charge sensor circuit.

    AIR CLEANER TEMPERATURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air cleaner temperature sensor or air cleaner temperature sensor circuit.

    BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty barometric pressure sensor or barometric pressure sensor circuit.

    FUEL INJECTOR COLD START VALVE Faulty cold start valve or circuit.

    FUEL INJECTOR PRESSURE REGULATOR Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit.

    FUEL INJECTION GSK <>Deteriorated, or faulty throttle valve mounting gasket

    IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE Damaged, loose, or faulty idle air control valve.

    IDLE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR <>Damaged, loose, or faulty idle speed actuator.

    MAP SENSOR <>Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor.

    MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor.

    THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit.

    TIMING SET <>Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s).

    FUEL PUMP Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits.

    FUEL TANK Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank.

    FUEL INJECTOR Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector.

    EGR VALVE Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve.

    DISTRIBUTOR Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor.

    CAMSHAFT <>Worn or scored camshaft lobes may affect proper fuel intake, compression, combustion and exhaust.

    I would start with the PVC valve and EGR valve and circuit.

    Hope this helps, an accept would be appreciated.
  • I have a '97 Dakota V8 Magnum 318 5.2l. My problem is my oil pressure dropped after sitting without being driven for 2 mos. it doesn't move at all just sits on 0. I have replaced my sending unit and the oil pump...still the prob continues the engine has 203k mi on it so its not too bad, i use high mileage 10w30 castrol and bosch oil filter. in the engine compartment i could here a noise so i checked the lifters and they seem fine none broken or clogged but i'm beating myself up here trying to figure out what it could be. the noise continues as if the push rods and rocker arms aren't getting any oil. the higher the RPMs the louder and faster the noise. Please Help!!!!
  • I have a '97 Dakota with 203k mi. Its a V8 Mag 318 5.2l. My prob. is this, I left it sitting for about two mos. and upon turnng it on it was fine after driving for 5 min. the oil pressure dropped and hasn't moved since, that was two weeks ago. I have replaced the sending unit and the pump since then but still nothing. It sounded like my lifters were bad from the engine noise so i checked them out and everthing under the hood seems fine excdept a little sludge from before i got it. i'm close to sending it to the scrap yard if i cant get anything to work. would a motor flush make a diff?
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Posts: 28
    well im in a rut changed my oil in my 94 dodge dakota but wheni drove her the oil pic came on and pressure dropped to nothing kept driving then it went off{light} and pressure came back some say its me oil pump going out well was out of town and light came on and pressure dropped was hoping for it to come back on to make it home but all of a sudden ticking time bomb had i just burned up my motor and can someone tell me where is the oil pump located i will replace it i already did the water pump i can even hear my tail pip spitting had to leave the truck at a friends when the moter is shot is it supposed to lock up and quit i need my truck :sick: :mad:
  • Unfortunately when there is no lubrication in the engine it will lock up after awhile, its a precautionary thing so the enine doesn't blow. A little more bad news is if it has locked up it will need to be taken apart to remove the bearings from the oil drain, quite costly unless u can do it yourself in which case u will need an entirely new gasket set. well i still have the prob. but maybe what i tried could help u. The pump could be in 2 places, first it could be located in the oil pan...a pain to remove, but once the pan is removed you should be able to see the pick up tube hanging off the pump. Two... the pump could be belt driven not the serpentine belt but timing chain in which case you have to remove the timing chain cover and the chain itself, this is even worse cause during installation you have to make sure the timing is correct otherwise the truck will not turn on or will seem like its misfiring. there are specialty tool ie: a timing light that you can rent from your local parts store fairly cheap but even if its not once returned you get a full refund. hope this helps good luck.
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Posts: 28
    thanks luckly it didnt lock up i parked it and will tow to a friends house they said they would do it for me so they must know where it is someone told me it was in the oil pan so guess im lucky again thanks for responding hope its just the pump :)
  • My 99 Dakota 3.9L / 44RE auto transmission with 80K miles has been suffering from poor performance and fuel milage (13 mpg city / 17 mpg highway) now for over a year. There are no check engine codes coming up. The truck is very sluggish when under load such as pulling hills or accelerating at cruising speeds. The colder the ambient temp is the better the performance, but as the engine warms up the performance worsens. When the ambient temp is hot the performance is poor and gets worse as the engine warms up. As I said there are no codes coming up. I have twice given the engine a tune up consisting of spark plugs, distributor cap / rotor, new plug wires, air filter, PCV valve. I checked the ignition timing and it is dead on. I have also replaced the entire exhaust system including Cat. Conv. and O2 sensors. I have also replaced the TPS sensor. None of the above has made any differance at all in the performance. I have had it to two different Dodge dealers and both told me it needed a tune up. I am assuming it is one of the sensors or possibly a faulty ECM computer. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Mike Howard
  • paparandapaparanda Posts: 6
    This may be coming too late but when it comes to fuel consumption usually a tune-up does the trick but when it doesn't you should try a fuel injector cleaner(one could be clogged) or the fuel filter in which case you would have to replace the entire fuel pump from inside the tank. hopefully this solves your problem. Good luck
  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    This applies to the '97 Dakota Sport (2WD/3.9L)

    I recently noticed that power steering fluid is leaking and running along the line sheathed w/ the slit corrugated cover (the other line is bare). I presume this is the outlet line from the pump, which I think lies just beneath the reservoir.

    I have also been getting a Check Engine (haven't pulled the code).

    I wonder if anyone has seen this. Is it likely the seal at the pump where the outlet line connects? Or is it more likely the seal where the reservoir attaches?

    In searching this site, I see posts #227 & 228 that allude to the power steering pressure switch (which may be located under the reservoir). These posts also suggest a connection with the O2 sensor. I bring this up because the other day, my truck - w/o warning - began to wildly lose power for a brief spell. This now makes me wonder if there's a connection.

    Any thoughts or experience w/ this are appreciated.
  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    I now know that the leak is caused by a suspicious "pin prick" hole in the pressurized line about 2" from the lower fitting (steering knuckle side). When the front wheels are steered, a tiny geyser appears.

    Recall that this line is covered by a slit, corrugated plastic sheath for protection. What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes?

    I think I know the answer but thought I'd put the question out there ...
    :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    "What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes? "

    Chances are low... But there is no such thing as a perfect machine. Unless you have good reason to consider anything else, you have to assume it is simply a natural failure.
  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    BPeebles is probably right - I'm willing to accept that the leak in the pressurized p/s line is a "normal" failure. I've also heard other anecdotal experience of the same kind: this line does develop leaks. The good news is that AutoZone had a new hose ("Duralast" brand) - lifetime warranty - for $17.99. I'll replace the line today.

    Now let's turn to the Check Engine message I mentioned. I pulled the code and it's P0132 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage). Sensor 1 & 2 on Bank 1 read "1000V @0% S.T. fuel trim". This strikes me as a possible short.

    Again I refer back to posts 227 & 228 on this forum, which point to the possibility that the p/s line leak (a mini geyser at times) may have put fluid on the O2 sensors (which I suspect are in that region of the engine area).

    I had only one instance of a real sloppy power failure in the last 2 weeks and it seemed to have "recovered". If this theory is valid, I wonder if it's fair to assume the the fluid wetted O2 sensors will "dry out" and eventually go back to normal.

    :(
  • goose1956goose1956 Posts: 1
    Have a 2000 dakota, V-6, 315000 miles, overheating, checked coolant, flushed, recently change water pump, head gaskets do not appear leaking by checking rear exhaust. I was told check timing, could this be it, any other suggestions beside a different pickup.
  • Hello,

    I have a question regarding my 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8, with 117,000 miles. A couple of months ago, I noticed while having my cruise control set at 60 mph and my rpm setting at 2, that the engine would "surge" just above 2 after going over a slight "rise" in the road (not during) and then go back to 2 on the rpm display. After slowing down and re-activating the cruise control at around 50-55 mph, I would notice as the stick arrived at 60 mph, the engine would give a quick surge slightly above 2 and go back to 2. I added STP Fuel Injector cleaner on three occasions, and it seemed to help temporarily, but it is back and occurs more frequently, even when not going over any rise in the road.

    Additionally, about a month ago I noticed that when I would start my truck up in the morning, it would surge while idle then come back down, then surge again, and so on.

    Could these two issues be related and what should I be looking at? I was looking online a little, and one suggestion was made regarding the idle surge as it relates to the IAC valve. Any help would be much appreciated!
  • bone5bone5 Posts: 5
    2000 dodge dakota quad cab 4.7 engine roars when started up and roars for a couple of miles down the road. It sounds normal after about 2 miles down the road. It seems worse in the winter. What could be the cause of this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Totally normal.... You are hearing the roar of the thermostatic engine-fan. The thermostatic fan takes awhile to disenguage. As I recall, it is the very worst right around 40F.

    You can reduce the time it takes to disenguage by gently reving the engine for 30 seconds or so before putting into gear and driving....but why waste the gasoline?

    Technical details: Silicone fluid withn the thermostatic-coupling is 'stiff' and takes awhile to get thrown to the outer-edges by centripital force.

    BTW: If you had use the "search" feature, you would have found several discussions about this since the 4.7L engine was put into the Dak in 2000. Many people mistakenly think that their automatic-xmission is "slipping" when cold.... as least you did not make that assumption.
  • seleneselene Posts: 10
    I have a 1993 dodge dakota with a 3.9 liter v-6. The check engine light is
    on. I turn the key 4 times to get the trouble codes. The codes I have gotten
    are 22, 23, and 45. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor, the throttle
    position sensor, the intake ambient air temperature sensor, the Oxygen
    sensor, the pcv valve , and the air intake filter. The engine is hard to
    start. After the engine is hot and I kill the engine, trying to restart is
    hit and miss. Sometimes it will start right up and other times it won't.
    Then it will act as if it is flooded. It won't idle. I rev the engine a
    little and the rpm's will finally kick up to around 1500. Then the engine
    will run smooth. The codes I get now are 45 and 22. I can't understand what
    is going on. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Also, is the heater/AC blower resistor located in the engine compartment on the R/H firewall on a '93 Dakota? Thanks.
  • scheelerscheeler Posts: 1
    I have the same pickup, the same problem started a few weeks ago for me. I have had it into the shop twice now and they can't find anything wrong with it, seems to cure itself each time I've brought it in. My next call will be the dealer I bought it from even though I have to drive 75 miles, hopefully they will recognize the problem, they are a Dodge dealer. From reading other info online I might try replacing the throttle body sensor before running to the dealer. Good luck!
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